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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old November 18th, 2019, 12:48   #1
Zheking's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Conway, AR
TDI(s): 02 Golf
Fuel Economy: 50 ish
Default RR Brake drag

Have a a weird issue that seems to be common on here, but I can't seem to solve mine. Changed my rear hubs (they were loud, noisy, 290k on them). Put the rear driver caliper back on and it was sticking. Why simply unbolting it would make it magically start doing that is beyond me. The caliper had a leak anyway, so I replaced it. Bled it (very very few air bubbles came out). still had a ton of resistance in spinning the wheel. I noticed it would get easier at some points, ok had the rotor turned, it was def warped, that helped, but i still have resistance spinning the wheel.

I cracked the bleeder open to relieve pressure on the piston, still resistance, so I don't believe it's the lines have failed internally. my e-brake appears to be disengaging fully (though I am going to just disconnect it completely tonight when I continue diagnosis), and going all the way back up to the stopper.

I'm gonna turn the piston back in tonight with a piston tool, undo the lower caliper bolt and rotate it some (i read that on here searching through old posts, I had never thought to do that) bleed again to see if anything else comes out, then 3 pump brake, 3 e-brake handle pull and see if the resistance is gone.

Any other thoughts on what else it could be? New caliper came fully assembled with new mounting bracket as well so the slide pins and everything should be good to go. I don't think ABS module or it seems like all 4 would be sticking. E-brake or lines is all it could be right (Like I said, I don't think it's the lines, but I've also never dealt with screw in pistons either)? ANy other thoughts / recommendations what to check appreciated.

Last edited by Zheking; November 18th, 2019 at 15:02.
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Old November 18th, 2019, 22:26   #2
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Portland, effing Oregon

the slide pins and everything should be good to go
With all the work you're doing and my hat is off to ya,
it'd be worth it to make sure the pins and even the rest of the caliper is
good and silicone'd up.
With the wheel off can you get behind it looking straight on and spin the rotor and
see it travels straight? Confirm zero gap between the new hub and the rotor?
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Old November 19th, 2019, 03:51   #3
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I recently had a similar issue. A dragging rear brake. New rotors, pads and calipers, but I used the old slides and bolts. After trying to figure this out here is what I discovered.

Up north here in the salt belt the lower slide especially are prone to seizing. When this happens the only recourse to remove it is a screwdriver and hammer. Putting the screwdriver behind the head of the bolt and hammering it out. I realized that the head of the bolt was bent, not much but just enough to allow the rotor to bind.

All new parts? Did you reuse the 2 bolts?

Last edited by Tdijarhead; November 19th, 2019 at 03:54.
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Old November 19th, 2019, 11:07   #4
Metal Man
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Sunbury,PA 17801

How much resistance do you have? There is always going to be some. Does it heat up while driving? I've had to file the pad backing plates at times so they would move freely.
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