how to loosen those 3 T-55 torque converter bolts

50harleyrider · September 25th, 2019, 09:05

Cheeter bars, one broken t-55 socket, beat on it with a long brass bar, even tried my air impact, and still no luck. Those bulders must have used a really potent thread locker. I guess I have to try heat next and hope I don't start a fire. Help!!

oilhammer · September 25th, 2019, 10:44

Snap-On Torx bit, 3/8" drive, flywheel locked through the hole in the bottom, never had an issue. They are tight, yes, but I have probably had 1000 of those bolts out with the exact same tools.

I do not think heat will do much, since the fluid filled torque converter they screw into will likely pull the heat away just as fast as you can put it in.

I'd just try a better name brand professional grade tool, make sure you hold it square to the bolt so it doesn't walk out on you.

DeliveryValve · September 25th, 2019, 12:09

There shouldn't be any thread locker on those bolts. The specified torque is 63 ft lbs.

The main thing is keeping the tool straight. I position the flywheel so I can "lean" the socket extension on the engine block. This would help in keeping it straight and giving you more leverage.

thundershorts · September 25th, 2019, 15:31

Quality tools always seem to work better whatever you're doing, they fit better as well.

50harleyrider · September 26th, 2019, 05:28

thanks guys. Oilhammer, you're an eternal light in our darkness. Is that lock pin a zf specific one like the engine lock pins or any old screwdriver will do?

oilhammer · September 26th, 2019, 05:44

I use a chunky screwdriver (also a Snap-On

) to hold the flywheel from turning through that lower sort of Saturn-shaped hole in the bottom of the bellhousing.

There is also a tool to go up through there to help push the converter out of the end of the crank (after it is unbolted from the flywheel) but I have never needed to use it. I just gently push the converter out with the last loosened bolt, gently rocking it back and forth. Then I reach in the starter hole and continue to be sure it is pushed away from the engine when I go to move the transmission back off the block. If you do not do this, and the converter comes out of the transmission instead, you will have a heck of a time getting it back IN while the trans is up in the tunnel, and there is not enough room to leave the converter on the flywheel and remove the trans without really angling the engine WAY down (which requires disconnecting some other stuff).

50harleyrider · September 26th, 2019, 18:09

Worked. Those VW installers in Germany really like a potent dose of thread locker. Every bell housing bolt as well as the tc bolts required a 3 ft cheater bar with all the strength I could muster to break loose.

zzdiesel · September 27th, 2019, 11:27

Perhaps it has been removed since new. No threadlocker on either of mine.

50harleyrider · September 28th, 2019, 04:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by zzdiesel

Perhaps it has been removed since new. No threadlocker on either of mine.

Saw no indication of prior removal and also didn't see any indication of thread locker on the fasteners. Most likely 370k miles has somehow caused some corrosion or 'heat treatment" that made them horribly tight.

thundershorts · September 28th, 2019, 06:22

Mine had spent a couple weeks as a submarine and they were "tighter than a bulls ass in fly season".

50harleyrider · October 27th, 2019, 17:59

Should the 6 flex plate bolts be replaced after removal for a rear main seal job? They are necked down at the top so I assume they are one-time use.

imo000 · October 28th, 2019, 09:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by 50harleyrider

Should the 6 flex plate bolts be replaced after removal for a rear main seal job? They are necked down at the top so I assume they are one-time use.

I have reused them more than once with no ill effects.

Uberhare · October 30th, 2019, 17:43

On the W8 someone changed these bolts on me to a 12pt 17mm bolt. I had to machine down a socket for clearance. What a PITA.

50harleyrider · November 6th, 2019, 19:27

tranny swap worked out great except the speedometer isn't working. Should I check and see if it's working in VAG before I dig deeper? Any known culprits with them? where's the pickup? Unfortunately I don't know if it was working before I swapped the good tranny in since the car wouldn't move when I bought it. These wagons are nice. My first one.

oilhammer · November 7th, 2019, 04:40

Make sure the speed sensor is plugged in, left (driver) side of transmission near the bellhousing/left axle flange area. These use their own specific standalone VSS for the speedometer.