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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old February 5th, 2019, 11:46   #766
SilverGhost
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No, car will absolutely NEED the tandem pump to even start. I believe it should be minimum 7bar idle and rises with RPM, quickly going above 10 bar. Need to look up exact specs and test sheet for sure. I have seen a couple fail because the lift pump failed and starved the tandem of fuel.

The lift pump is more about volume than pressure. I wonder if you have a wonky thermo valve in the fuel filter that is dumping the fuel back to the tank? Reliably getting fuel at filter, but not to transfer pump - I would like to know why. There could also be a check valve in one of the hoses that could be sticking or gummed up?

No cracking the injectors on a PD. AND DEFINITELY NOT ON A COMMON RAIL!!!! That can kill you! VW put safe guards in their CR so rail pressure bleeds off when the engine is stopped. The pressure in the older VE engines is low enough that with a little common sense you can crank and bleed the injectors.

BTW - I have gotten a TDI to run on silicon spray for several minutes on an older car while trying to bleed a bastard air bubble. I guess it's just the propellant that is burning and at much slower rate than ether.

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Old February 5th, 2019, 23:43   #767
sc1500
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Thanks Jason.

Firstly, I'm hoping I've been stupid here - there is *always* an engine fault since the car wouldn't start, but I neglected it because it refers to the cruise control/brake switch "P0571-static". Is it the case (as I would, now I reflect on it, hope/expect) that for *any* engine fault, regardless of how it may or may not prevent the engine from starting/do damage etc., the ECU disables some/all electrics that would be necessary to start the car (this would have to be between tandem pump and injectors, as the lift pump seems to be ok)? If this is the case, my engine may be mechanically just fine, only needing this brake pedal switch replaced (I dismantled it, though, and it's the most basic thing ever - can't see how it'd go wrong - I more likely suspect the electrics from the switch back to the ECU )

I have no idea if this is relevant/helpful but I did the "suck a pipe through a gatorade bottle" trick on the return from the tandem pump to the fuel filter. There is now fuel in the bottle, but the system loop is obviously broken since I've interrupted the tandem pump return line. I probably should not have tried to start the engine, but I did out of curiosity, and the revs were definitely much higher now, like on the cusp of starting, but still no starting. Drawing fuel manually back to the fuel filter has definitely "improved" its attempt to start.

By placing my hand over the exposed ASV I can feel a definite draught into the engine - no idea if it's sufficient but there *is* air flowing.

When the MityVac arrives (or perhaps with the Gatorade bottle), how will/do I prime my fuel system and purge all air without being able to crack the injectors? Do I need to if I have a lift pump, which makes it a pressurised (not vacuumed) system?
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Old February 6th, 2019, 03:54   #768
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Ok, so I've ruled out the "any engine fault will prevent a start" hypothesis by fixing the (actually) broken brake light switch, observing the brake lights now behave appropriately to this switch, clearing the fault and ensuring it remains cleared - no Engine faults remain.

After drawing the fuel back from the tandem pump, through the Gatorade bottle, I re-connected the hose to the fuel filter, tried to start the car and it behaved very oddly. At first it sounded close to starting. Then I heard some pretty expensive-sounding cracking sounds (timing belt is near-new - no teeth skipped), then it returned to the usual "trying but failing" fairly regular cranking sound.
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Old February 6th, 2019, 13:05   #769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sc1500 View Post
Ok, so I've ruled out the "any engine fault will prevent a start" hypothesis by.................snip.................
Yea that's nutty. No engine code that I've heard off will prevent a start. There are a couple that will indicate a problem which will prevent start, subtle difference.
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Old February 7th, 2019, 11:40   #770
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Hmm, how many km on this engine? PD all had cam shaft issues.

Scary expensive cracking noises are never welcome. Might want to actually manually verify mechanical timing is actually correct.

Jason
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Old March 15th, 2019, 05:10   #771
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1st post John - New Fairfield
2003 Golf TDI The car was running.
Noticed the stereo not working, electric trunk: some misc. electronics not working. Checked the fuses drivers side panel and noticed not getting power to some of the fuses. Loosen the 2 screws to the fuse box, and while I was removing it, must of accidentally bumped the main power feed wire to the metal. I didn't see any corrosion. Looked clean. installed it back in. Then I noticed during the process that a 50A flat fuse link on top of the battery blew. I' m assuming that it happened when I took the box out to look at it. Replaced the 50A on top of the battery.
*Car cranks but won't start.*
Fuse did not blow again either. Glow plug and engine light do not come on. Replaced the 109. jumped the fuel stop valve. I heard it open when i put power to it. tried to start - cranked but no fire.
tried to jump the main power on the glow plug relay to 87, still no glow or engine light. No power to some of the fuses on the panel that i had before. Checked all grounds-block, under battery, ECU,under steering column, looked for chafed wires in the wire loom in the starter region going to the glow plug circuit. Tachometer does not move when cranking. took out the comfort control module, opened it up - looked brand new and clean-reinstalled.

I'm at a stand still.

The car has stage 4 ECU from Rocket Chip, Injen air intake
EGR delete, Bigger injectors, 15 Turbo, Turbo back 2 1/2 Exhaust
Just did the timing belt, water pump, stretch bolts.
I replaced alternator and wiring harness, but the real problem was the 4 plug near the battery for the wiring harness had a broken wire.

Any Ideas? Thank you for your time and help in advance.
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Old March 15th, 2019, 06:26   #772
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If your glow plug icon does not flash on once when key is turned ecu is not booting.
No boot = no start usually dead/fried ecu. Send ecu to me to test.
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Old March 20th, 2019, 14:26   #773
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Thank you for your reply. I sent my ECU back to Rocket Chip. I'll let you know when I know.
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Old March 25th, 2019, 16:44   #774
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Ok , it is not a problem with the ECU. Jeff tested it and it is good. Now I guess I have to learn how to read a wiring diagram, test voltage and grounds....
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Old March 31st, 2019, 21:39   #775
Rookie19
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Default 2001 Jetta won't start SOMETIMES.

Good evening all, I'm new to this forum and new to the TDI world. Having starting issues with a 2001 Jetta sometimes. The car has 184000 miles, timing belt replaced at 110000 miles. The injection pump was recently replaced with a remanufactured pump. The car starts good normally. The issue seems to be after the car is parked for an hour or so. The engine is warm enough that the glow plug light only comes on for about a second. Start cranking and it will fire die fire die, give it some throttle and keep cranking it will eventually try to run without the starter cranking. I then hold it to the floor while it rattles and bangs, blowing white/blue smoke like crazy. It eventually clears out ( or dies, then you start over ) and runs fine. Seems to start fine after being shut off for 15/20 minutes, or the next morning or after work. When it has this issue it reminds me of a flooded gasser. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old April 1st, 2019, 07:16   #776
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@Rookie19 - just shooting from the hip here, but first thought is leaking injector nozzles. Takes a while for the drip on a warm nozzle to puddle enough to start hard and smoke, but sitting overnight the fuel drains past the rings?? Or could be needle lift or temperture sensor lying and causing too much fuel on restart?

Hopefully a few more guys with waaaaay more first hand time on this engine will chime in, soon.

Jason
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Old April 1st, 2019, 17:49   #777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie19 View Post
Good evening all, I'm new to this forum and new to the TDI world. Having starting issues with a 2001 Jetta sometimes. The car has 184000 miles, timing belt replaced at 110000 miles. The injection pump was recently replaced with a remanufactured pump. The car starts good normally. The issue seems to be after the car is parked for an hour or so. The engine is warm enough that the glow plug light only comes on for about a second. Start cranking and it will fire die fire die, give it some throttle and keep cranking it will eventually try to run without the starter cranking. I then hold it to the floor while it rattles and bangs, blowing white/blue smoke like crazy. It eventually clears out ( or dies, then you start over ) and runs fine. Seems to start fine after being shut off for 15/20 minutes, or the next morning or after work. When it has this issue it reminds me of a flooded gasser. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would use a scanner and look at reported coolant temp before starting. Disregard what the gauge tells you because it wont tell you what the engine side of the ECU is seeing.

Next would be to shut it down and clamp both fuel lines between the tank and the filter. when you go out to start it, remember to remove the clamps. This will tell you if the pump or filter is leaking down.
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Old April 2nd, 2019, 11:17   #778
BobnOH
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And the dumb stuff, check the anti-shudder valve.
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Old October 21st, 2019, 06:57   #779
k0wtz
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First I admit I don't know much but my solution to this non-starting thing after a fuel filter change was hook a chain on it and pull it for a bit. It started right up I had worked on it for 2 hours trying to get it to start!

This worked for me might not work for you!
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Old November 25th, 2019, 13:27   #780
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I had a ton of issues with my daughter’s New Beetle. She bought it as a non-runner with such a massive fuel leak it quit running on the previous owner...luckily it didn’t catch on fire. I got the car home, resealed the pump and got caught by the noob issue of being out of the alignment hole on the injection pump and Pulley. Got that all straightened out and then I had it running like a top. I was exceptionally pleased, until I went out to start it to take it for a new set of tires and it wouldn’t start at all. I was despondent to say the least.I asked on here and got tons of thoughts and suggestions. Everything from I needed to have someone who knows what they’re doing reseal the pump to replacing o-rings in the fuel filter b/c they are known to suck air. I considered all of them and tried most...but I didn’t want to give up and take it somewhere. I watched a YouTube video about Relay 109 and VIOLA! Car is 100% fixed. It seems 109 controls both the fuel shut-off solenoid and glow plugs. So, if you have a similar issue, at least consider Relay 109 b4 you pull the injection pump again and completely reseal it AGAIN! :-)

Last edited by Tankthecarman; November 25th, 2019 at 13:29. Reason: Spelling
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