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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old July 31st, 2006, 20:28   #1
TurboDan
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Default Injector pump not leaking... pouring!

Son of a bisket Ive had a very small intermitent leak of fuel coming from underneath the IP on my 2001 Jetta. Well its not intermitent anymore. Front end of the engine is COVERED with fuel from the base of the IP to the plastic "skid plate" Anyone make gasket sets for the Base??? Ive seen them ( YES by searching) for the top end and middle but nothing for the base... Or am I just screwed
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Old July 31st, 2006, 22:21   #2
Jungle Love
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TD, I'd bet your IP is leaking from the o-ring that seals the main pump body to the distributor body (the rusty iron end of the pump where the steel injector lines bolt in).

Mine's leaking here - well, not leaking, not dripping, not pouring...it's SQUIRTING out the bottom from this joint...drove 2 miles yesterday, used about a GALLON of fuel!

When it leaks here, it looks like it's coming straight out the bottom of the IP. This o-ring is included in Bosch seal kit # 2-467-010-003. Kit is available from Bosch or diesel injection shops - not VW.

The distributor body slides off the main pump body after you remove the injector lines and several allen-head bolts.

I'm sure you know, but just a caution: don't get even the TINIEST bit of dirt in the IP when you pull it open - get everything spotlessly clean before taking anything apart.

So no, you're not screwed - just got a little work ahead of you
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Old August 1st, 2006, 01:47   #3
DPM
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Woah horsey! It aint just that simple, if you just pull the head off the end of the pump you're gonna be picking bits of IP off the ground/ skidplate for ages...
Read up on distributor head removal before you attempt it!
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Old August 1st, 2006, 10:01   #4
Jungle Love
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Indeed - I know full well what a delicate process distributor-body removal is. No implication of "easy" was meant, but I can see how it could've been interpreted that way by the unwary, so good clarification DPM.

The important thing TD, is that the fix is a whole lot easier & cheaper than a whole new pump, so whether you feel up to doing it yourself, or find a TDI expert to do it for you, you'll save $1000+ over the dealer's "solution"

Let us know what happens.
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Old August 1st, 2006, 12:35   #5
runonbeer
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you can order the seal(s) from www.dieselgeek.com

here is a direct link:
http://www.dieselgeek.com/Categories.bok

He's also got the o-ring for the dist head, couldn't find it on the web.

-rob
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Old August 1st, 2006, 13:06   #6
TurboDan
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Thanks for the info guys! Im sending this link to the expert Im gonna have do this and see if its an option. cross your fingers.
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Old August 8th, 2006, 17:11   #7
tallonvision
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Hey guys, I have a leaking, or dripping IP also. Mine is on a 96 Passat. The mechanic I took it too want $650.00 to re- seal it. I would like to do it my self. The mechanic said something about a computer, and a specialist needs to do it. Is that the Vag- com that people are refuring too? What manual do you recomend I have with me if I attempt it, and do you feel a pretty handy person should attempt something like this?
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Old August 9th, 2006, 09:05   #8
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It depends on where it is leaking. If it is at the top cover plate, you can do it no problem. If it is the middle horizontal section, you'll need to be sure and set it back down exactly where it was before (and you will need VAG COM to verify that you've done so)

If it is at the large o-ring around the dist head it gets complicated. Most steps for replacing this seal are obvious, but one thing I have discovered is that jacking up the drivers side as high as you can will help keep the cam plate and rollers where they are. and make sure you re-install the lower drivers side pump mounting bolt before attempting to start the engine.

I just did another 96 passat the other day (non-biodiesel user). I guess these just start leaking after 10 years.
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Old August 9th, 2006, 09:43   #9
CaJones
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Me thinks it's the ULSD kicking in and seals are retreating now that everyone is buying ULSD, even the red dye is now ULSD. No or very low aromatics from the hydortreat process of the fuel is not causing shrinkage as much as it's now reducing the over swelling of the seals from highly aromatic high sulfur fuel in the past?

Last edited by BKmetz; September 17th, 2007 at 20:17. Reason: Audi5000TDI alais, banned
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Old August 9th, 2006, 09:51   #10
dieseldorf
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I hope DG has a lot of o-ring kits in stock! Looks like we're gonna need 'em.


http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=147828
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Old August 9th, 2006, 10:18   #11
rotarykid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaJones
Me thinks it's the ULSD kicking in and seals are retreating now that everyone is buying ULSD, even the red dye is now ULSD. No or very low aromatics from the hydortreat process of the fuel is not causing shrinkage as much as it's now reducing the over swelling of the seals from highly aromatic high sulfur fuel in the past?
This is exactly what went through my mind when I started to read about the leaks . I went through this on several injection pumps in 92 & 93 after the first fuel change over . I am hoping you are wrong about the non-highway being ULSD .
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Old August 17th, 2006, 17:09   #12
corrado tdi
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I just added the Viton pump head o-ring seals to my site under "TDI Injection". I also included the measurement so that anyone stuck with a shop that doesn't use outside-supplied parts can at least get the correct Buna o-ring in a pinch. 60mm x 2.5mm is the correct size.
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Old August 19th, 2006, 06:08   #13
mdw2mac
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I removed the dist. head, and have run into problems described in a few previous posts: several of the internal parts have fallen out of place. Can I properly replace everything without removing the whole IP? The pump has been working just fine. I was needing to replace the seal on he dist. head. Your help is appreciated!
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Old August 19th, 2006, 08:08   #14
corrado tdi
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Try Runonbeer's suggestion below first. If it doesn't work for you then I would remove the pump to ensure all of the parts make it back in correctly. Gravity is not your friend when little parts fall out. This exact thing happened to me when I tried the o-ring swap for the first (only) time and I pulled the pump to get everything back in correctly. Runonbeer was there and it was his first time replacing the o-ring as well. He has since figured out how to change the pump head seal while the pump is in the car. We may get the procedure down in bits and bytes and post it to either his site or mine soon.
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Last edited by corrado tdi; August 19th, 2006 at 20:50.
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Old August 19th, 2006, 16:27   #15
runonbeer
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Jack up the drivers side of the car as high as you can get it to go (this will get gravity at least somewhat on your side). Stand on the passenger side of the engine and reach over and into the pump to re-insert the rollers in their guides (take note of the orientation of the outer washer face). cut a coat hanger into a 5" section and bend it into a boxed "U" shape. this will allow you to hold the cam plate to re-insert it after you get the rollers back in; don't try and use a magnet to hold it, you'll just end up pulling all the rollers out everytime (I know this)

formal write up with pictures to come.

Last edited by runonbeer; August 19th, 2006 at 16:30.
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