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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old November 6th, 2019, 11:14   #16
UhOh
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Rich, the car's from Canada. I can't seem to locate any site for Canada that will take a VIN (and thus show whether the recall work has been done). At this point it's kind of moot as I already have a new pad on order: it'll be a bit of work to replace, but probably not more than trying to get a dealer to deal with it (doubtful that a US dealer would touch).
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Old November 6th, 2019, 12:48   #17
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Any dealer should perform any outstanding covered recalls. Other than the fact they can be sh!tty about anything
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Old November 6th, 2019, 13:08   #18
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Hi, Bob!


I am not so certain that they wouldn't have a leg to stand on to side step this one given it's a Canadian car. VW has, it appears, separate databases. VW USA could state that it's not in their database so they won't touch it.


Not a fan of doing these sort of repairs, but, in general I want no one other than myself touching these cars.


Not sure what all the recall does. I'm hoping that I don't find myself back in this same situation (burnt element) later on. I figure that as long as the wife doesn't crank it up to 5 and keep it there (it's cloth seats, so I cannot, if it's anything like my 2000 car, see how anyone could run this way without setting their arse on fire [with a non-faulty element]!).
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Old November 6th, 2019, 13:41   #19
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You may be right, but I'd check further. I read too much on here and never heard of Canadian car. There must hundreds or more cars sold new in Canada, used to US. The other option is to dig up the technical data, it may be something you can take care of.
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Old November 6th, 2019, 15:42   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UhOh View Post
I figure that as long as the wife doesn't crank it up to 5 and keep it there (it's cloth seats, so I cannot, if it's anything like my 2000 car, see how anyone could run this way without setting their arse on fire [with a non-faulty element]!).
Even at 5 the sensor should tell the switch if it's to hot.
Mine was not at 5 when the seat overheated.
The recall only replaced the 2 switches unless the seat cover was also burnt.
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Old November 16th, 2019, 21:22   #21
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Been kind of busy...


I ended up installing the new seat pad: took about 2 1/2 hours, which included cutting out the old element from the seat cover. And... Nothing!


Today I did some checking and found that the resistance is tenfold higher than a working seat: 77.3 ohms for the bad seat vs 7.7 ohms for working seats. So, it appears that the element in the backrest has issues, or that mixing the two types (as there appears to be comments about issues with this, but sounds more like issues with overheating than out and out not working) shouldn't be done.


I have now ordered a new pad for the backrest: part number 1J0-963-557-C.


BTW - Here's an excellent writeup on doing this work:


http://vwgolfr32.co.uk/fitting-guide...ment-guide.htm
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Old November 23rd, 2019, 18:09   #22
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Got a new seat back pad. The stupid connector on it is male! The original is female. The seat bottom pad is male. Two brand new seat pads and BOTH have the same connector when they're supposed to connector TOGETHER! Looks like I'll have to cut and splice connectors: I paid good money and I have to hack the stupid pad! Grr...


Does anyone know how best to remove the headrest supports? According to the link above you just "give a good pull." I've pulled and cannot get them to come out. I'm afraid that, given how everything else has gone, that these seats are going to be different and that I'll end up breaking something if I apply too much force. Here's the picture from the article/link above (headrests in this car use a button on the headrest instead of the on the support as this picture shows):



Last edited by UhOh; November 23rd, 2019 at 18:11.
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Old November 23rd, 2019, 18:26   #23
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Here's what I have:
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Old November 23rd, 2019, 21:11   #24
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In order to remove the head rest supports (without breaking them) I pulled up and unclipped the back portion of the seat cover. Now with the bare frame exposed at the back, you'll see two small tabs that lock the plastic support to the seat body. Press them both in while pulling up on the support
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Old November 23rd, 2019, 21:32   #25
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OK... connection mystery solved. There's an intermediate connection toward the base of the seat back. So, that's all good (wish that the article/link above had shown the connector, but it didn't).


The headrest supports can only really be removed with the cover peeled up. Glad that I opted to not force things. [I didn't catch mr.loops' reply, but I figure it out; thanks for responding though.]


The new set of pads comes out to 2 ohms. And, the important thing, is that they're working and not, yet, catching fire!


No way that it would be cost effective if not for using one's own labor.


Thanks to all for putting up with my adventures. Anyone else who embarks on this kind of project (cloth seats- I think leather is different) can message me (personal e-mail best).
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Old November 24th, 2019, 10:14   #26
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You can easily remove the headrest base without removing the sear cover. If you push the fabric down on the back side, you can expose the clip. Push in on the clip with a small flathead then you should be able to pull up and remove the headrest base.

See this picture, I’ve been collecting the bases for my Beetle headrests:

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