My car will not start

willyraz

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Location
Fairfield county CT
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI
Car stopped running while driving on the highway. (POSTED LAST WEEK) Code P1248
Finally got my parts. So today I replaced the timing belt. Had 80K on the belt. All was fine, did not jump and timing seemed to be OK but replaced to confirm. Car still dos not start. YES Timing is on. Hooked up the jar. This pump does not seem to be taking the fuel. Is there anything else I can try before condemning the IP. Fuses are good and I have check engine light and glow plug lights on when I turn on the ignition. HELP!! not sure what direction go. What about the switch on the top of pump??

 

jokila

Vendor
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
Can you prime the pump using a manual vacuum pump on the return line to the filter? Do you get solid flow of fuel at that point?
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Willy, starting a new Thread is not going to solve your problem any faster.

My opinion, you changed the TB not knowing what caused the engine to quit running.

In the other Thread, Mongler98 gave you a pretty good explanation as to what might be up with the Injection Pump and the DTC P1248.

We have to assume that DTC P1248 was not there before the stall incident on the highway. On that basis, and a little research, as well as Mongler98's comments, I believe the issue is with the IP.

Now, I've done a number of TB jobs on ALH engines, about 9 out of 10 started almost immediately...... a few never needed the Timing tweaked after checking with VCDS.

So, now you have a TB job no-start issue on top of a previous no-start issue.

Assuming the Crank and Cam are in time, with the IP lock pin in place, the three IP Sprocket Bolts need to be about center of the slots. That will put the Timing in the ball park.

Next, you need a better fuel IV set-up. You're having to deal with a lot of air in the feed hose coming out of the jar.

It's very easy to make an IV set-up using a quart plastic Jeff Peanut Butter Jar, cleaned, of course. JB Weld will secure plastic barbed fittings to the jar. The one below has been in use for at least five years. It works great and is not a mess to deal with. JB Weld bonds and secures the fuel filter on the bottom of the jar. JB Weld bonds and secures the plastic T (plugged on one end) to the side of the jar for the return fuel. A long slim bolt through the center of the lid works great to hang it above the engine.

 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
1st off, is the shutoff solenoid getting 12v when the key is on? If its not, is the 109 relay good, test it with a multimeter and a few bits of wire with your battery. Replace the relay or wiggle it sometimes fixes it for me. If the relay IS working and you ARE getting 12v to the shot off solenoid than this is the cheep part to replace. First take it off, put 12v to the top part like it was on the car and ground out the body of it, it should retract the plunger, if it does not, this is your problem. The shutoff solenoid is the c battery looking thing on the IP next to the head on the body with 1 wire going to the top of it on a ring connector.
Been there, dont that, tried for days to fix all this stuff, dam relay worked its way out a bit.

Its a cheep and easy diagnose before you go after a new pump or other costly repairs.
 
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JETaah

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
mi 48836
TDI
96 B4V, 1999.5 jettaIV,2005 BEW Beetle
If it is not drawing fuel out of the jar with your current set up then you need to bleed the transfer pump first. The fuel solenoid being opened or closed will have little to do with that problem. The transfer pump (inside the pump) circulates fuel through the system anytime the pump's pulley is spinning...or it should be.

Make sure that the injector lines are tight and the return lines on the injectors are tight as well. If you can't get it to draw fuel you may have a bad seal in the pump that is favoring drawing air over fuel.

Take your glow plugs out and leave them out until you can see fuel mist being shot out all 4 of the GP holes. It is much easier to spin the engine faster without battling the compression.
 
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KLXD

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 22, 2009
Location
Lompoc, CA
TDI
'98, '2 Jettas
What JET said.

The solenoid valve only supplies fuel to the pump head. If you get it properly bled and still suspect it's the problem just take the plunger out. The primary cutoff is the ECU setting the injection quantity to zero.

The solenoid valve is left over from the IDI days.
 

willyraz

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Location
Fairfield county CT
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI
THANKS for all the replies. extra thanks to Andy Bees & Jetaah. I am still not exactly sure why I broke down? Temps were very cold outside. Going to drive local till I am confident that things are OK. Taking the glow plugs out with a new fuel set up front was key. It took a bit to prime but was able to see movement until fuel was misting out of plug holes. Centered the pump as a starting point and it fired right up. I am still concerned that my pump could have issues but for now I am back up and running. Thanks You All.
 

hey_allen

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2006
Location
Altus, OK
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI
One fault that I found on my car after swapping an 11mm pump in during my timing belt change was that it wouldn't prime, but I could pump fuel through the pump with a hand pump.
I eventually found that the case pressure regulator valve had failed open, and was allowing fuel (or air) to flow freely through the fuel return line.

Once I knew to look for it, I pulled the fitting that the return pipe is attached to and inspected it. Mine rattled as the check ball was floating free, with no spring tension behind it. Once I replaced it with one from my old pump, it primed and fired up shortly afterward.

I don't know If this is applicable to your situation, but it doesn't take much to test and is fairly easily replaced, though a bit spendy if you have to buy one new.
 

JETaah

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
mi 48836
TDI
96 B4V, 1999.5 jettaIV,2005 BEW Beetle
One fault that I found on my car after swapping an 11mm pump in during my timing belt change was that it wouldn't prime, but I could pump fuel through the pump with a hand pump.
I eventually found that the case pressure regulator valve had failed open, and was allowing fuel (or air) to flow freely through the fuel return line.

Once I knew to look for it, I pulled the fitting that the return pipe is attached to and inspected it. Mine rattled as the check ball was floating free, with no spring tension behind it. Once I replaced it with one from my old pump, it primed and fired up shortly afterward.

I don't know If this is applicable to your situation, but it doesn't take much to test and is fairly easily replaced, though a bit spendy if you have to buy one new.
Just remember that the overflow fitting on the top cover is calibrated to that specific pump. That was told to me by DFIS when I sent them a pump to rebuild and left it off thinking that it was not necessary for their purposes. I can't tell you exactly what it would affect...perhaps the timing piston reaction time or the balance with the input case pressure valve. If it worked by substituting another from a different pump you may have gotten lucky having a close match to your defective one...or maybe it is not quite up to spec but runs well enough.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Hey_allen, thanks for sharing your story.

As being discussed in several "no start and the like" threads, many folks don't realize the IP has pump body pressure via a check valve (inlet side) and a restriction valve (outlet side). Since the outlet is on the high side of the IP, there's no doubt that arrangement helps eliminate air from the system. Thus, those of us who have a few bubbles drifting through the clear inlet hose seldom experience an unprimed IP or loss of prime due to air. The design helps keep the air moving above the pressure pump and on out of the IP.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Does anyone know what the typical IP pump body pressure might be? Does it vary?

Thoughts?
 

JETaah

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
mi 48836
TDI
96 B4V, 1999.5 jettaIV,2005 BEW Beetle
It varies with the RPMS.
I have it on these forums somewhere but posted it a long time ago.
I will see if I can find the thread.
 

hey_allen

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2006
Location
Altus, OK
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI
Just remember that the overflow fitting on the top cover is calibrated to that specific pump. That was told to me by DFIS when I sent them a pump to rebuild and left it off thinking that it was not necessary for their purposes. I can't tell you exactly what it would affect...perhaps the timing piston reaction time or the balance with the input case pressure valve. If it worked by substituting another from a different pump you may have gotten lucky having a close match to your defective one...or maybe it is not quite up to spec but runs well enough.
I don't know how different the valves can be for the two ALH pumps, as they appear to have the same valve on IDParts, but it's possible. It might be that they are a different part between the pumps on the ALH engines, and other applications that use a similar pump?

I found out about the valve due to talking to DFIS, as I had almost given up and was getting ready to pull it back off the engine to send in. The gentleman that I talked to mentioned sending it in with the pump, and that was when I learned that it was a valve and not just a banjo fitting stud.

That said, DFIS are great to work with, and turned my injectors around in short order, but I didn't need their assistance (yet) on the IP.
 
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