A3 Jetta Inner CV Joint Repair/Replacement
You will need the following special tools:
- 30mm socket – axle shaft self-locking nut
- 8mm 12-point triple-square bit – inner joint to transmission flange bolts
- Snap ring pliers or VW special tool – inner joint circlip
Removing drive axle
1. Loosen the axle nut, then jack up the car and support it with stands.
2. Remove the 3 bolts holding the ball joint to the control arm. Make matching marks on the ball joint and the control arm if you’re not planning to get an alignment when you’re done. A little spray paint works well for this.
3. Remove the six 12-point bolts holding the axle to the transmission flange. I wasn’t patient enough to wait for the bit I ordered to arrive, and successfully removed the bolts with a T-40 torx bit. I did however wait for the 12-point bit to replace the axle – I don’t think the torques would be accurate with a T-40 bit.
4. Remove the axle nut and remove the axle. I had to lightly tap the end of the axle at the wheel hub, then it slid free easily.
Removing inner CV joint
1. Clean the grease off the inner CV joint, then make matching marks on the hub, ball cage and housing. This is essential if you plan to re-use the joint.
2. Remove the circlip. There’s probably a VW special tool for this, but I managed with a pair of snap ring pliers.
3. Using a hammer and screwdriver, carefully tap the protective cap off of the CV joint housing.
4. Press the CV joint off the axle. (I was lucky - mine came off by hand.)
5. Thoroughly clean drive axle.
Servicing Inner CV joint
If you are replacing the joint, this section is unnecessary. My boot has been torn for longer than I should admit, so I’m replacing the entire joint. To give you an idea of the state of the joint, I cleaned up grease that came out of the joint with a broom and dustpan…!
1. If you are planning to reboot and re-use the old joint, you need to be sure that everything goes back exactly the way you removed it. The marks you made before removing the joint from the axle will ensure that the races on the hub and housing remain paired.
2. Turn the ball hub and cage 90 degrees and remove from housing.
3. Press balls out of the cage. It’s probably not critical, but you could keep track of which ball was in each track by removing them in clockwise order starting at the alignment marks you made on the joint.
4. Tilt ball hub so the ball tracks are lined up with the rim of the ball cage and remove the hub from the cage.
5. Thoroughly clean and check the entire joint for pitting and/or other wear.
Note: according to the Bentley manual, polished areas or visible ball tracks are not cause for replacement.
6. Replace hub into ball cage and line up the marks you made previously. Press balls into cage.
7. Replace the hub and cage assembly into the housing. Align with marks made earlier. When the joint is properly assembled, the small gap between ball tracks in the hub should be opposite the large gap between tracks in the housing (and vice versa).
Reinstalling inner CV joint
1. Pack CV joint with 60 grams of CV joint grease. Insert grease from both sides of joint.
2. Slide the inner boot onto the axle, pack the boot with an additional 60 grams of grease.
3. Install new splined dished washer, concave side towards the transmission.
4. Press the inner joint onto the axle.
5. Install new circlip.
6. Line up the bolt holes and tap the inner boot’s protective cap onto the joint.
7. Clean the gasket face of the joint housing and affix the self-adhesive gasket.
8. Clean the transmission flange.
9. Reinstall the drive axle. I opted to put some additional grease in the flange to work its way into the joint.
10. Install a new self-locking axle nut and the original washer. This needs to be torqued to 195 ft-lb, but final tightening should be done when the car is back on the ground.
11. Torque inner joint 12-point bolts to 33 ft-lb.
12. Line up the ball joint with the marks made on the control arm. Ball joint bolts should be torqued to 26 ft-lb.