Land Rover Pump mTDI timing procedure?

Hey guys,
I've read just about every post on all the forums on this subject, but unfortunately I still have doubts as to what I'm doing because there is not a "_____ for Dummies" book yet on this subject. I intend to make that book(err post) with videos once I have clear instructions and more importantly, I understand this enough to make an educational post about the whole procedure.

So, here is the context. I'm putting a Land Rover pump onto an AHU engine that is destined for my '82 Diesel Westy. I'm using the following:


*note: ALH sprocket was machined to remove the bulge on the front side of the sprocket.

Overall Goal: Find TDC on pump, lock it, and mark it

Step 1: Pump @ TDC
My first task is to make sure the pump is at TDC. I made this video to illustrate what I'm doing. Please watch and give feedback. Do I make any sense? Is what I'm doing correct?

watch video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4VdonIOBakI

Step 2: Lock Pump
Assuming I'm correct in Step 1 in getting the pump at 1.4mm, my next step is to lock the pump. I found the hex nut on the side of the pump.

I'm assuming I need to find a longer bolt with the same thickness and thread. Basically, it needs to be long enough to engage the shaft on the inside of the pump. Cranking it down will put friction on the shaft and keep it from moving.

Step 3: ALH Hub
Once I have the pump locked, I then need to get the ALH hub bolted onto the shaft and line up the hub locking space/notch with the lock pin receiver on the pump. Here's the problem I see though. The ALH hub notch is much smaller than the LR pump lock hole. If I insert a drill bit as an improvised lock pin, I will not get an accurate lock because the bit will be smaller than the LR pin receiver.



My idea is to fill the hole on the LR pump with JB Weld and then drill a hole the exact same width as the notch in the ALH hub. This will give me a nice tight fit on the lock bit on both the hub and the pump. Is this a good idea or necessary?

Ok, that's enough for now. Once I get this part straightened out, I'm sure I'll have more questions down the line. Thank you very much for your assistance.

Check this out, POST #6:
http://vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php/topic,36589.0.html

i just did the same thing and i think you have it right from what i have read. once you start goofing off with the dial gage in you can kind of see what the lift is doing and it will end up pointing close to that delivery valve. if you go too far it will snap to the next spot.

for me i found a nylon spacer with a hole in the middle and then pounded it into the pump so the alh timing pin could be used with the hub and sprocket. i then had to slightly drill out because it got tigher once hammered in.

what this did is allowed me to pin the pump for the desired timing and its basically in the middle of the slots when on the timing belt.

i guess the theory is you get the timing close and each pump may like slightly different numbers and this will get you close with some room to adjust.

i hope i didn't do it wrong but i thought the pumps without the egr parts up top are timed to 1.54? thats what i did, but i haven't run the car yet, still need to deal with some stuff.