Moving to the country! School me on big TD trucks. - Page 2

carsaremytoys · July 3rd, 2017, 19:07

I almost pulled the trigger. Everything was good until halfway through the test drive coming to a stop the oil pressure dropped all the way down and the light came on just for a second. Got back, killed the engine and waited 5 or so minutes and checked the oil. Nothing registered. He told me it was due for it's 3k mile rotella t6 oil change and there was oil all underneath, but I understand it's a truck that is going to leak and fling oil everywhere. The factory turbo only had 20k on it. I figure the engine was burning a good amount...

turbobrick240 · July 3rd, 2017, 20:14

Oh man. My lowly 7.3 with 210k holds its oil just fine. You'll find a better one.

tadawson · July 3rd, 2017, 21:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by carsaremytoys

I almost pulled the trigger. Everything was good until halfway through the test drive coming to a stop the oil pressure dropped all the way down and the light came on just for a second. Got back, killed the engine and waited 5 or so minutes and checked the oil. Nothing registered. He told me it was due for it's 3k mile rotella t6 oil change and there was oil all underneath, but I understand it's a truck that is going to leak and fling oil everywhere. The factory turbo only had 20k on it. I figure the engine was burning a good amount...

There is absolutely nothing in a properly maintained Cummins that should drop oil, especially at that low a mileage. Short of someone goofing the filter gasket, not much you can carelessly get wrong . . .

\/\/0J0 · July 4th, 2017, 06:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by tadawson

There is absolutely nothing in a properly maintained Cummins that should drop oil, especially at that low a mileage. Short of someone goofing the filter gasket, not much you can carelessly get wrong . . .

The truck does have 222k on it. I'm not sure what was meant about factory turbo with 20k..?
There are a couple of places that oil likes to come out of B series engines. The first is the tappet cover, located on the driver's side behind the injection pump, it has a gasket that can be quite finicky to seat properly. The second is the timing gear train cover. Despite having a gasket available for the application, the accepted practice is to use rtv to seal it up because of the likelihood of leaks developing from using the gasket alone.
Still should not be leaking so much that is doesn't register on the dipstick in less than 3k after being refilled.

Sent from my mobile look-at device

carsaremytoys · July 4th, 2017, 06:41

I meant factory oem, replacement. Not original

tadawson · July 4th, 2017, 10:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by \/\/0J0

The truck does have 222k on it. I'm not sure what was meant about factory turbo with 20k..?
There are a couple of places that oil likes to come out of B series engines. The first is the tappet cover, located on the driver's side behind the injection pump, it has a gasket that can be quite finicky to seat properly. The second is the timing gear train cover. Despite having a gasket available for the application, the accepted practice is to use rtv to seal it up because of the likelihood of leaks developing from using the gasket alone.
Still should not be leaking so much that is doesn't register on the dipstick in less than 3k after being refilled.

Sent from my mobile look-at device

Sounds like maybe a dingus did a valve lash adjustment and botched putting the covers back on (or reused old gaskets far too many times)?

2015vwgolfdiesel · July 4th, 2017, 11:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by carsaremytoys

I almost pulled the trigger. Everything was good until halfway through the test drive coming to a stop the oil pressure dropped all the way down and the light came on just for a second. Got back, killed the engine and waited 5 or so minutes and checked the oil. Nothing registered. He told me it was due for it's 3k mile rotella t6 oil change and there was oil all underneath, but I understand it's a truck that is going to leak and fling oil everywhere. The factory turbo only had 20k on it. I figure the engine was burning a good amount...

GAD

No oil on stix?

Seller did not even prep the unit with full oil?

IMO, seller is no one for you to trust.

Friendly advise

... run as fast as you can

... look else where.

carsaremytoys · July 4th, 2017, 12:19

What's GAD?
And I disagree about the honest part. He passed my test of many complicated questions.
People that "prep" their cars are hiding something.

2015vwgolfdiesel · July 4th, 2017, 13:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by carsaremytoys

What's GAD?
And I disagree about the honest part. He passed my test of many complicated questions.
People that "prep" their cars are hiding something.

It's your $$$$s and your future -- Happy motoring

carsaremytoys · July 4th, 2017, 13:43

You are not at all contributing to this world.

tadawson · July 4th, 2017, 13:45

Well, as they say . . . never attribute to malice that which can adequately be explained by stupidity. Sounds like the owner just didn't care much about this truck, and just didn't have the mental firepower to do simple things like fixing leaks and checking oil level . . .

It's hard not to wonder how many times he has starved it for oil, and what kind of shape the bearings are in . . . heck, that might be why he lunched a turbo - they are not at all fond of running dry.

All in all, I think what we are all saying is that there are enough things of concern here (for whatever reason) to not even come close to that asking price bei g reasonable, and/or make a buyer run away . . .

crazyrunner33 · July 6th, 2017, 12:52

Low oil is an automatic no for those engines. It's best to find a truck that's close to stock and well maintained, preferably with paper air filter. Just because the engine is one of the most legendary engines that is hard to screw up, it doesn't mean that it's immune to neglect. Personally, I'd run from any Cummins with a K&N; been there, done that, got the T-Shirt, and the $7,000 dollar rebuild. The transmission is also not bulletproof, even the NV4500. The NV4500 is weak, plus the synchronizers are more sensitive to oil type than the PD TDI camshafts.

As a 12 valve owner, I can admit that they are not the kings. The 6.7 and '06 to '07 5.9 are the true kings of power on the street. The insanely wide range of dynamic timing allows them to spool much larger turbos without much smoke and significantly faster response. You can daily drive a 69mm turbo and spool that'll support over 750 hp better than a 12 valve with a smaller turbo for 500 hp. The CP3 in the common rail is just as reliable as the P7100, and the '06 and newer injectors are very reliable, they do not have the stigma of the first gen common rails. A 12 valve needs a small set of compounds and a built auto to make a fun streetable 600 hp or more.

greenskeeper · July 6th, 2017, 17:33

cummins is the best engine in a junk dodge

7.3 is a tick below the cummins but in a ford truck that won't fall apart around the engine

carsaremytoys · July 8th, 2017, 19:11

I know that the Dodges fall apart due to rust.

tadawson · July 8th, 2017, 20:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenskeeper

cummins is the best engine in a junk dodge

7.3 is a tick below the cummins but in a ford truck that won't fall apart around the engine

Yeah, the engines just grenade, rendering the rest irrelevant . . . .

Frankly, I think the newer Ram's are better in that regard . . . I have a 2011, and not a mark on it (granted, in TX).