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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old June 4th, 2017, 18:03   #16
Prairie Chicken
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Same thing happened to me but on the back side... this was after a turbo change and couldn't find the line holder for the rear bracket. Lesson learned. New oil feed line and got a new holder from idparts. It is solid now.

I thought about the SS line but didn't pull the trigger. Maybe next time.

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Old June 4th, 2017, 23:36   #17
Millennium Falcon
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Yeah this isn't something I had thought about much but boy once it fails on you it kinda makes you paranoid. My car also was missing the clamps so Im guessing the vibration took their toll. I stole the clamps of my parts car. I do believe many of the ss lines are the same. I read a thread the other day about one of the $90 kerma lines blowing so even the "expensive" ones can fail. I will let you know how mine looks. It wasn't the cheapest one I could find but it wasn't $90 either.
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Old September 16th, 2017, 11:40   #18
ranagon
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The oil feed line on my son's 2005 BEW wagon cracked yesterday, right at the banjo bolt fitting on the oil filter.

I didn't find any oil feed line clamps installed. The preceding discussion pretty well establishes that they are essential.

Does anyone have a picture of where they're supposed to go? ETKA shows the parts, but not the location.

Thanx.
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Old September 17th, 2017, 00:28   #19
Nevada_TDI
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I only have one oil line clamp and it attached to the driver's side exhaust housing bolt facing the firewall that looks like it shouldn't be there; tomorrow when it is light I will take a picture if nobody else has yet.
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Old September 18th, 2017, 16:15   #20
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I'm going to be replacing the seized turbo on a 2006 Golf BEW engine and I want to replace the turbo feed and drain lines as the car has 300K Km's on it. I was thinking of getting this kit as it has both lines and is substantially cheaper than buying them separately;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEW-Turbo-In...19.m1438.l2649

Any thoughts? Will the original lines be OK with new copper washers and gaskets?

Thanks
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Old September 18th, 2017, 16:50   #21
Vince Waldon
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Even before talking about if that kit will work, search here on the seller aka "Prothe".
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Note: The above is to the best of my knowledge- but at the end of the day simply interweb opinion, worth EXACTLY what you paid for it, and if used done so at your own risk.
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Old September 18th, 2017, 17:31   #22
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Yeah, your used hard line, banjo copper seals, gaskets, etc., would be superior over the Prothe product, in my opinion. The Gasket Kit you see in the middle of the photo sells by him for about $10.00. So, he's charging close to $50.00 for an unknown quality hard line.

I'd be far more inclined to re-use the old hard line as well as your used gaskets than trust that kit. The one on my Vanagon ALH Engine has been off and on numerous times with no issues...... even re-used the gaskets with no issues. Better support for the hard line than OE is the key.

EDIT: And, why would you need a new drain pipe? Seriously!
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Last edited by AndyBees; September 18th, 2017 at 17:33. Reason: Add comment.
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Old September 18th, 2017, 19:10   #23
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the problem is not the factory steel line, it's that securing clamps were not reinstalled after service work or the turbo was replaced ... braided lines will fail too if not secured from excessive vibration
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Old September 18th, 2017, 19:45   #24
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I did a search for user "Prothe" and a lot of older threads. Is he or one of his many alias' behind the ebay store?

I'm asking here about changing lines as a proactive measure. I don't know why this turbo is seized as I bought it this way. The car does run and drives but obviously way down on power.

So I'm asking members here for advice. When I take the feed and drain line off I will clean and inspect them. If they are good they will go back on. Does the scavenge line get coked up? If so what's best to clean it with? Can the copper washers be reused if still flat? This is all original hardware as I know the previous owner and she had the car from new.
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Old September 18th, 2017, 20:23   #25
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As I stated above, I've removed and re-installed the hard oil line to the Turbo on my ALH numerous times, including the copper seals without issue. Some people use a propane torch to puff up the copper washers. I've never tried that. I've put over 80k miles on it in my 84 Vanagon... for a total of 209k miles. I have no plans to replace it.

I agree with Jimbote's assessment.

During the summer of 2016, my fabricated aluminum brace, installed at the OE location (back of block above bell housing) broke. I found it broken after returning from a 12k mile road trip. That gave me some insight as to the amount and intensity of the vibes these engines dish out. I have my aftermarket oil pressure gauge sending unit mounted on the end of a grease gun hose and suspended by a spring. Everyone of them would die in less that a month due to vibes if they were screwed into a T at the oil filter housing.

So, proper bracing (in rubber) is the key.

The drain hose is not problematic !
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Old September 19th, 2017, 05:06   #26
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"Some people use a propane torch to puff up the copper washers"

What you need to do is anneal the copper, ie. soften it. Heat to red hot,
and immediately quench in cold water, quite the opposite of steel.
Copper work hardens, the heat and pressure those washers undergo
in a motor compromise its crushability, necessary for a good seal.
Clean flat surfaces are obviously critical as well for it to do its job.

For my upcoming turbo install I'm planning on using a braided SS line, but I will be paying close attention to some kind of flexible support, especially at the fitting ends.
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Old September 19th, 2017, 05:46   #27
Beaker80
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Thanks everyone for the input. I will reuse the originals after inspecting them. I will anneal the copper washers. AndyBees; good advice - thanks.
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Old September 19th, 2017, 10:59   #28
Prairie Chicken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranagon View Post
The oil feed line on my son's 2005 BEW wagon cracked yesterday, right at the banjo bolt fitting on the oil filter.
I didn't find any oil feed line clamps installed. The preceding discussion pretty well establishes that they are essential.
Does anyone have a picture of where they're supposed to go? ETKA shows the parts, but not the location.
Thanx.
Ranagon... here is a pic of my 04... the clamp is on the drivers side where it curls around the head.

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Old September 19th, 2017, 12:35   #29
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There is a new braided SS line available on ebay for less than $25.00; I own one. I will see if I can find the link.
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Old September 19th, 2017, 12:46   #30
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double post
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