LUK 17-050 clutch

Price is now 234. Called support and got refunded the $3.64 difference... yes, I am a cheap bastard

I used my DMF with two different clutches: first with a stock clutch which started to slip with PP520s, and RC3, and second with an SBC Stage 2 Endurance clutch. I had SBC machine the flywheel, as it's important that the surface that the feramic material on the disc contacts be smooth. Feramic doesn't conform to irregularities in the flywheel like organic material does, so if you don't machine the flywheel you end up with less surface area and the clutch may slip. I used each clutch for about 100K. At 200K on the flywheel it finally started to vibrate and out it came. Single mass flywheel in there now.

It is true that you very quickly get used to the new clutch pedal weight. After two weeks, I began to think the LUK was stiffening up. Then I drove our Nissan truck and realized that it was completely in my head; driving the Nissan, my first thought was "gawd this is a heavy clutch," but I remember that before I had the LUK I thought the Nissan felt like a pretty light clutch.

eb2143 - assume you have about 240k original miles on your old clutch? I am at 270k miles and have one of these on my shelf to go in when my original gives out. I have bigger (IDParts ) injectors but other than that stock engine-wise, and I like the DMF clutch. Thanks for all the heads up on the deal and the feedback from everyone.

^Yes, replaced original Sachs DMF at 246,287 miles. I also have upgraded injector nozzles, but that's it power wise. The symptom that had me most concerned, an odd noise when accelerating, which I thought represented impending disintegration of the DMF, turned out to be something else (a boost leak).

Still, it's easy to forget how many rattles and vibrations you've grow accustomed to and I'm very happy have a new clutch that has room for a tune should I go that direction.

I've got right near 200k on my original Sachs and it's still ok. But I do have a Luk Repset on the shelf in the garage.....

Installed the LUK 17-050 a couple of weeks ago and I am very happy with how the installation went and how it works. Super smooth and much lighter pedal which is perfect for a daily driver.
I would highly recommend all my shakes and rattles are gone. Should have changed it sooner 370k km / 230k miles was to far for the original flywheel. The clutch probably had another 50k left on it.

luk 17-050 on sale now at partsgeek $186.35!! free shipping!!

This clutch is a steal! My throwout bearing grenaded around March and I've only installed the LUK 17-050 kit yesterday. I wish I didn't wait so long to fix my car. Light, firm pedal and really smooth engagement. I love driving my car again! I only did about 50km so far on it but so far so good! I'll update this thread again once I get around 1500km on it.

im in a mk4 BEW jetta wagon with a malone stage 2 (about 250ftlbs?)

will the LUK 17-050 be suitable to hold the power?

thebarber said:

im in a mk4 BEW jetta wagon with a malone stage 2 (about 250ftlbs?)

will the LUK 17-050 be suitable to hold the power?

Click to expand...

I had Frank at Bully clutches in Ottawa upgrade a new 17-050 kit for me to hold more torque.

He replaced one side of the disk's linings with kevlar and did some other mod on the pressure plate to increase clamping force.

Did this 10,000 km ago with a stage 3 tune, so far all is well, no slip at all.

South Bend refuses to put non organic/metallic materials on LUK DMF kits because the pressure plate is self-adjusting, and they think the higher friction rate will move the adjuster to the end of its range. Not sure if that would be true with Kevlar. I think this clutch is great for stock or mildly modified cars. Probably OK with Malone Stage 2 in a PD as PDs don't tend to make as much torque as rotary pump cars.

Amazon has them on sale for $198.07 with free shipping. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CI8XTK/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00#productDetails

Would this work with a stock BEW with a Malone stage 1? The stock clutch is starting to slip if I really work it hard.

If I take this set apart to install. Does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts?

I don't have the long reach M12 triple. I'm in the middle of the job, so quick responses are highly appreciated!

Wow that's a Great price for sure. I need a clutch for my stock soon to be modded Jetta. Question I have is how much T.q. will this hold?

pedroYUL said:

If I take this set apart to install. Does anyone know the torque specs for the bolts?

I don't have the long reach M12 triple. I'm in the middle of the job, so quick responses are highly appreciated!

Click to expand...

The Bentley says:

13nm (10ft-lb) for the 2 piece flywheel
60nm (44ft-lb) +90 degrees. Always replace. for the flywheel to crank

Get a Bentley. Worth the money.

Thanks so much unclenzo!

Just finish installing this clutch. People are not kidding when they say the pedal feel is now grandma's clutch. Also, engagement is seriously down low now too.

Just want to come on record here: after a couple of weeks after install, pedal is engaging at a point very similar to the Sachs clutch the car had before.

Also, the pedal is heavier than when just changed. It is still lighter than the previous clutch, but it is somewhat back to "normal" pedal feel with some feedback. It probably got some air in the slave line that I had to disconnect to route properly when installing.

I'd be interested in getting some numbers on how hard the pedal is. I went to check my cars but the (weight) scale I have is way too big to use; need to come up with something.

Have read that new clutches are almost always lots easier than older ones. That has been my personal experience (though not with VWs or TDIs).

UhOh said:

I'd be interested in getting some numbers on how hard the pedal is. I went to check my cars but the (weight) scale I have is way too big to use; need to come up with something.
Have read that new clutches are almost always lots easier than older ones. That has been my personal experience (though not with VWs or TDIs).

Click to expand...

UhOh,

With a standard design diaphragm clutch, the release load or pedal effort will increase with a thinning of the clutch disc friction material thickness. Add to that a bit if a build up of clutch crud on the fork to bearing, fork to pivot and bearing to guide tube and the pedal being harder to push is a normal characteristic of these designs.

Put in a new (same part number) system, clean up the crud and pedal effort goes back to soft pedal mode. Want to see if its holding? Accelerate hard on an uphill section of road like simulating a pass of a truck. Don't touch the clutch pedal. RPM and MPH increase together, not slipping under power. RPM spikes, ouch, back off the power NOW.

Peter,

This part number is not a Self Adjusting Clutch. SAC's made by LuK principally show three small yellow springs clearly visible in the transmission side of the cover. SAC's are designed to maintain the original clamp load and release load and do not have the same increase in release load at the pedal.

pedal is much lighter then the stock clutch, i almost put it through the floor the first time i stepped on it. just put it in last week, have about 1K on it so far. I like it. especially since it was less than $200 shipped.

Following up...

I measured 24 lbs pedal effort on the wife's car and 30 lbs on my car. Interestingly the clutch in my car was (I just replaced it- see below) smoother than hers. Both are/were original clutches.

After seeing the dyno register 258 ft-lbs of torque on the wife's car (same config as mine) I decided to not take a chance on the Luk holding it and went with an DC Stage 1 clutch (from Bora Parts): much pricier, but I felt the peace of mind was worth it (if the Luk didn't hold the power then I'd be doing the clutch work all over again- time is too important to me).

I have about 400 miles on the DC clutch now. It's all that Bora Parts claims- smooth and quiet. When I get a chance I'll use the same methodology to measure pedal effort. The real measure, however, is how my wife finds it, and she says that she really likes it; so, I'll be putting one in her car.

All said, I'd still recommend the Luk 17-050 for anyone that's keeping their car stock (or no more than say a Malone 1.5 tune).

Just ordered the LuK 17-050 off Amazon (with their repackaged warehouse deal) for only $155!

I was so close to ordering a SMF kit when I saw how cheap this one was. With all of the plastic parts in the dash that rattle and make noises I would much rather replace my noisy DMF with something that won't make any noise.

Should I be replacing the clutch fork as well? Are there any symptoms that suggest a new clutch fork is needed? For only $30 I wouldn't mind having to put a new one in for insurance.

What is the "repackaged warehouse deal"?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B000CI8XTK/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all

hskrdu said:

What is the "repackaged warehouse deal"?

Click to expand...

I believe its a return, opened and repackaged, technically used, but might be the same as new

Any clues (other than bad database entry) why the Amazon Fit Guide says the LUK 17-050 does not fit a 2004 Jetta TDI 5spd (PD)?

If I plug in 2003 or 2005 Jetta TDI it says it fits?? Sounds like bad database lookup.

Before anyone asks: yes, stock tune.

bmwM5power said:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/ol/B000CI8XTK/ref=mw_dp_olp?ie=UTF8&condition=all
I believe its a return, opened and repackaged, technically used, but might be the same as new

Click to expand...

it is.... bought one a few months back for $80 shipped .... it was just missing the outer box but was still shrink wrapped to the LUK logo carboard

where2 said:

Any clues (other than bad database entry) why the Amazon Fit Guide says the LUK 17-050 does not fit a 2004 Jetta TDI 5spd (PD)?

If I plug in 2003 or 2005 Jetta TDI it says it fits?? Sounds like bad database lookup.

Before anyone asks: yes, stock tune.

Click to expand...

I have one in mine, it must be a error like you said.

How would the LUK 17-050 compare to the VR6 clutch for a stock car or maybe up to stage 2 tune?

The manual trans I wanna buy to convert, is said to have the VR6 clutch, but what shape its in I don't know...