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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old July 15th, 2017, 09:43   #16
djembeing
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The EGR was replaced by the dealer under the previous owner. At one point I removed and cleaned it. The intake was not terribly clogged (2-3mm), so I left it alone. I'll try unplugging the MAF. When I bought the car it there was another MAF in the trunk still in the plastic so I installed that one. I don't think it changed anything at the time. Maybe I'll also try the old one.
I should mention that the car runs MUCH better than it did when I first got it. It had low power and missing under load. My biggest gain was from replacing the vacuum hoses and sealing the vacuum pump.
I'll get this thing straightened out. I'm debating and considering costs. I could use some advice on VCDS purchases, I'll read the threads and maybe post a want ad.
I know there is a guru in Lexington KY, 2 hours from my location, but I think he is on hiatus and I'm sure he'll have a backlog of TDIs to take care of. Also, the map shows a shop in Athens OH, I could check with them. Still 2 hours.
and thanks guys.

Last edited by djembeing; July 15th, 2017 at 09:52.
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Old July 15th, 2017, 15:31   #17
Mikmc
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I just got the HEX version of the VCDS a week ago. I have a '02 Jetta. I'm not a computer geek but the instructions to do a basic engine scan are very intuitive. I found a #2 glow plug fault and EGR excessive flow fault, ordered all new engine vacuum tubing and the 3 control solenoids on the firewall and installed them and replaced all glow plugs then cleared the faults. So far no engine check light has lit and it's running great. My take on it now is that I don't know how I've owned this car for 8 years (169k miles)with no VCDS. If you plan on getting one the website answers a lot of questions. I got the HEX (novice). Money well spent. I gave this car to my Daughter and she tried to register it in CA. with a check engine light lit. She took it in for a repair estimate and they quoted $3500 to replace the turbo. I rented a dolly and towed it back to NC. So far $450 invested for parts, Bentley manual, and VCDS. If I get more engine check lights I'll proceed in cleaning the intake, exhaust, egr, system because I plan on keeping it. My Daughter wants a mini van and I'm thinking that I shouldn't have given it to her in the first place. It's a money pit if ya don't do the work yourself and rely on a shop to be honest. The VCDS is a game changer. Good luck.
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Old July 16th, 2017, 09:00   #18
UhOh
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I was, and still am, in a similar situation. Daughter has an 03 wagon (and lives a ways away, though a little less than 2 hrs). After about a year of getting caught up on maintenance (TB, brakes and suspension) it's starting to stabilize. She has an Ultragauge in it, so the instructions are to notify me ASAP when any code pops up.

The real "trick" with these cars is to get them into proper working order and then keep on top of regular maintenance. If you do this then they're going to be pretty reliable.
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Old July 18th, 2017, 10:47   #19
djembeing
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Thanks again for all the advice. I believe I'll be ordering the HEX-V2 from the Ross-Tech Site. As I understand it, the $200 version allows one to use it on three vehicles. An upgrade allows up to 10 cars. I regret that I won't be able to help others in my area but that's how it is. If I eventually sell the car the cable can go with it, or we'll shop for other VWs.
I'll report back later
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Old September 18th, 2017, 16:39   #20
djembeing
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Default Got VCDS!

I've done a few things since my last post so let me get you all up to speed.
New Crank Sensor (no change)
New fuel filter and diesel purge (very slight improvement)
Cleaned injectors. I did not disassemble. I soaked the tips overnight in leftover diesel purge. New copper washers and fuel return lines (very slight improvement)
Reseated IP case pressure relief valve. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=238872
Mine looked like the middle one in the picture in that post. It took forever to prime the system but it ran a lot smoother. I'd be happy but now it takes even longer to start.
Also, my serpentine belt tensioner is jumping a bit.


I just now recieved my Hex V2 from Ross-Tech. I did an auto scan and it came back with my normal faults, CTS and glow plug. Plus it revealed a
heated mirror code
00943 - Heated Exterior Mirror; Driver Side (Z4)
35-00 - -
and an airbag code 00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent


I went to check the timing before the engine was warm and it quit when I entered basic settings. So I let it warm up. It gets rough and smokey when I enter basic settings, I understand that it's normal for the engine to change while in basic.
At the correct engine temp, the graph showed the timing to be just below the blue center line but it would jump up off the chart. The bottom of the chart would fluctuate between saying "timing too advanced to be charted" and "within spec, slightly retarded".


I also explored some other readings but I'm still learning how to record and plot this kind of thing. I looked at the duty cycle of the advanced start solenoid and it was in the 70% area, IIRC. I looked at a lot of things and thought I was logging and saving but...
I haven't messed with anything yet. I wanted your opinions first.


guidance, please and thank you.

Last edited by djembeing; September 18th, 2017 at 17:04. Reason: readability
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Old September 19th, 2017, 18:55   #21
djembeing
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Thank the good lord!
I bumped the IP timing forward just a mm and she fired right up. Wow! I did some tweaking to try and get the timing in the correct spot on the graph. The graph still wants to jump around but for the most part I'm between the middle and top line.

Just took a quick spin around the block a few time and what a pleasure. VCDS should have been my first purchase. It would have probably saved me money and down time on the car and a lot of aggravation and anxiety.

Still a few things though..
My idle remains a little rough. It's smooth when I first start the car then after 15 seconds or so it gets a little rough. Not quite as bad as before. I noticed on the timing graph sometimes it would say "fuel temp too hot". It was steady in the measuring blocks. Might try to replace it eventually.
Also, some of the readings may warrant investigation. Requested boost vs actual, maybe a few other things. Once I get better with the software I'll learn a lot more.
And I'd like to figure out that air bag fault (safety). Might get around to that skanky headliner one of these days.

I'm thrilled that she fires right up.
I think the pump sprocket still has the stretch bolts so I'm going to get some new ones. I have a feeling they've been trying to slip.

Last edited by djembeing; September 19th, 2017 at 18:58. Reason: typos
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Old September 20th, 2017, 02:25   #22
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VCDS will go a LONG way toward helping you settle this thing down. I'd make sure that your fuel filter is OK (and the thermo-T - watch for air bubbles in the clear fuel line to the IP, if air is coming in it'll show up after the car has been sitting for a while.

Check your IQ. I'd also recommend doing a "Diesel Purge" (do a search). Getting some runtime with changes you've made or are making will exercise things a bit and could possible work out some kinks.

If you go to MaloneTuning.com you will find a procedure for doing performance logging. I highly recommend doing logging to fully assess how the engine is operating. (you might find that your MAF is in need of replacement- a failing MAF can substantially affect performance- replacement is easy and fairly cheap).
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Old September 20th, 2017, 07:20   #23
djembeing
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Thanks for the reply UhOh.
It's got a new Mann fuel filter and new T. I don't really have any bubbles in the clear line. I run diesel purge with every new filter. Also, new MAF.
I'll check that site. The previous owner said it had a chip tune but I don't know what kind. Is there any way to find out?
IQ read within spec.

tip: The Ross-Tech interface is definitely worth it. Go ahead and buy one before throwing parts at it (I should have heeded this forum's advice). My thoughts early on were that "I could try this $20 sensor and if it fixes it I've saved $180." NO. I would have saved money buying the expensive device just to learn that all I had to do was bump the timing a bit. Although, I do have a bunch of new stuff and presumable good old spares. I'll put together a spare parts kit and stuff it in with the spare tire.
These forums are invaluable.
Thank you all.
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Old September 20th, 2017, 16:24   #24
Terrific-In-Tahoma
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Hope you get the engine settled.

One part that has been subject to a recall (of sorts) is the Idler Pully, and the associated spring mechanism.

There is a metal tab that is bent at a 90 degree angle , that keeps the tension from the internal(external?) spring pressing against the arm of the assembly where the Idler Pully is running against.

Hard to expalin in words.

Anyway , mine was on the verge of failing completely one day, when I did a fast downshift and jumped down 2 gears instead of 1.

Well, the RPMs went way up, to match the speed travelled, but the transition from barely above idle (middle of shifting) to redline (4200) was too much for this Idler Arm tab.

It sheared apart, but only half way.

It was enogh to cause the timing belt to skip 1 tooth backwards, and throw the entire timing out by 5 degrees or so.

When I got the car to a trained GURU, he was able to replace the Timing Belt Itler Tension Pully and re-set the primaary timing.

The tab had by now completely sheared away, and it was visible that the length of duration that its life had ended.

Not knowing much about TDIs at the time (for me it was 50,000 kms (31,000 miles)] ago, I did not know when its most recent timing belt was changed.

Based on the vintage (260,000 kms) and the interval being 100,000 kms, my guess was it was 60,000 kms overdue for the TB to be changed.

So, a TB, Water Pump, Idler Tension Pulley, and two other pulley bearings were changed out in short order.


So, long story, but short answer to your post, all things condidered, it is possible that the TB Idler Pulley, is marginally failing, and that is one possible (of many) resons for the erratic operation of the timing with the VCDS display.
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Last edited by Terrific-In-Tahoma; September 20th, 2017 at 16:43.
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Old September 20th, 2017, 16:43   #25
djembeing
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thanks for the tip Tahoma.
I've inspected the timing belt area. The tensionor tab is in the correct place. My belt was last done at 206k, currently at 285k. However, the previous owner replaced the IP and it looks like he used a new belt.
Since you mention tensioners, the serpentine belt tensionor is sort of floppy. May be a cause or effect, don't know. Either way I'll do both belts and replace all idlers ect as soon as I get scrape some more cash together.
The vibration at idle is acceptable. I may be splitting hairs over it. Might try to make a video if it continues to concern me. I've got some new IP sprocket bolts on the way (current ones are stretch bolts), then I'll give it a good hard Italian tune and see where we are.

I'd consider this thread closed since the timing adjustment seems to have solved the problems. Though, I still welcome any advice.
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