ALH 1949 willys cj3a

The engine normally leans towards the turbo side of things. Your 8 degrees is, looking at the belt side of the engine, 8 degrees clockwise? Where stock angle is 15 degrees CCW.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=2230776&postcount=64 gives some detail on the inside of the turbo

I'd run the GT15 at 23 degrees for now, but it seems to me that GT15 turbos that have been around are short-lived, so saving for a new 1749VB turbo and clocking that "taking your time" would be the logical step forward.

Your swap looks great - I wouldn't abandon it now!

Hasenwerk said:

Your swap looks great - I wouldn't abandon it now!

Click to expand...

Agreed,plus,we won't let you!
Looking at my turbo it looks like the center piece is where the oil inlet/outlet
are and that part cannot rotate,seems like the only thing that can be done is
an angled adapter that goes between turbo and exhaust manifold.
Like you and others have suggested,just run it.

Thanks for the help and support I will soldier on...... David, I ordered a set of engine mounts you suggested. Can you tell me how tall they are and what thread they have on the studs? Thanks! I have exciting updates coming soon!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHuwNig8sks

I still need to figure out how to integrate the coolant ball into my system. Since I made a custom water neck I dont have the the same hook up on the back of the head. I do have a bypass line going from the hard line under the injection pump to the upper hose where it comes out of the back of the head. I also have the little nipple on the back of the head tapped into the highest point on my cooling system.

AWESOME!!! Purrs like a kitten. Love the induction sounds with no pipework. Must be gratifying to be right at the finish line. Nice job!

Millennium Falcon said:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yHuwNig8sks
I still need to figure out how to integrate the coolant ball into my system. Since I made a custom water neck I dont have the the same hook up on the back of the head. I do have a bypass line going from the hard line under the injection pump to the upper hose where it comes out of the back of the head. I also have the little nipple on the back of the head tapped into the highest point on my cooling system.

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congrats, that has got to feel good getting to this stage!

Well done!

Millennium Falcon said:

Thanks for the help and support I will soldier on...... David, I ordered a set of engine mounts you suggested. Can you tell me how tall they are and what thread they have on the studs? Thanks! I have exciting updates coming soon!!!

Click to expand...

I don't have them in front of me to measure height at this exact moment, they do squish slightly under load so 2" +/- tall. The studs are M10x1.5

Thanks. They should be here next week. I should only have to make minor adjustments to my mounts to make them work. So here is my next question. I bought this pulley from a guy. I was told Its a VW pulley off of a 1.6. He was using it on an alh to run an alternator v-belt. My question is.....will anything bad happen if I replace my crank pulley with this one? The v-pulley is rubber dampened like the ALH pulley but im sure it is a different weight and its slightly larger diameter. I though this just bolted onto the stock ALH pulley but once it arrived I see that is not the case. I did think about turning a spacer that fit inside the ALH pulley and using longer bolts to attach this one to it.... What are your guys's thoughts. I need a v- belt groove to run my alt. THanks!





Here are a few other minor updates.

Fuel return line..


Laugh, but it works. I used this on my Mercedes swap too.... Its painted black now.

copper plumbing never crossed my mind, pretty slick indeed! you've opened a whole world beyond duct tape and epoxy for me, thanks. Rubber looks a little deteriorated in that dampener. Are you looking to add a pulley and keep your serpentine? If so, what thoughts do have toward spinning something up on the lathe made of aluminum? If you go that route, keep in mind the belt should not contact the bottom of the groove but grip the sides. Not putting loads of miles on the rig the weight on the crank may not matter though. Engines run various accessories off of either ends of cranks in commercial applications and I don't think they are all necessarily balanced from the factory with different applications in mind. If it is determined that rotting rubber causes an imbalance it may cause problems. I am of the theory that rotating assembly of engines should be in balance with the flywheel/clutch assembly and harmonic balancer. But that goes a little deeper than necessary here probably

Yeah I love the copper. The bends are nice and tight and 1.25 & 1.5” fit standard hose sizes perfectly. I just need one v- groove to run my alternator. That’s it. I think I will mock it up with this pulley and then start shopping for one with better rubber. I thought about trimming it all off so it’s even if balance would be an issue. What are the chances of it falling apart in the mean time while I find a replacement?

Chances would be easier to calculate after it happens, but grab it and try and move it then watch it go round and see what you think. Does that add to the weight already on the front of the crank? I know from experience externally balance chevy motors with the wrong flywheel don't take long to crap out. I don't think that applies here....probably not? Bad balancers can be hard on main bearings....hmmm, I honestly won't know for sure until you show me. But, like I always say, better you than me. Seriously though, I think your doing a hell of nice job, and in the end whatever your decision is will work out well for you.

Thanks jmodge! From what I’ve been told these engines are Internally balanced so as long as the stuff you bolt into it is also balanced it should be fine. The rubber looks deteriorated on the exposed part but that may not be the case farther in. I spun it up on the lathe at 2000 rpm and it was true. I think it will be ok until I find a suitable replacement. When I get the alh pulley off I will compare weight. Is there anything special I need to do to remove the alh pulley? I’ve heard the bolts strip easy and I also don’t want to do anything that would the crank sprocket/ timing belt.

Seems mine came off easy when I did the timing belt. I think I was slow to register this but, are you exchanging the serp pulley with the v pulley? For some reason I was thinking you were trying to add it, but there are no accessories on that truck. So then you can fiddle with mounting your alt and easily find a belt to fit? What alternator?
As one ages it some times takes a few cups of coffee, a good dose of high cholesteral, and a grand dump before things really become clear. DON'T THINK ABOUT THAT AS YOU LIE IN BED AND TRY TO SLEEP! HAHA
Yeah, you should be fine when it comes to balance, I would think

Ha,I used copper fittings for the heater lines...

Haha yeah I’m not that old but sometimes I feel my brain is older than my body! Too much diesel fumes. your not totally crazy.... I was originally thinking about adding a v pulley to the serp pulley. Then I got this one and it would be a replacement. I am going to used the alternator off the Jeep. It’s a gm 1-wire.

What did you do at the end of the copper pipes to produce a flair so that the hoses do not slide off under pressure?

I didn’t do anything to them. The hoses fit tight and then a clamp. I’ve got tens of thousands of leak free miles on two of my other vehicles with no hoses popping off or even a leak. Lots of other stuff has leaked but not from the copper joints. I would be skeptical too had I not done it before with good results.

Millennium Falcon said:

I didn’t do anything to them. The hoses fit tight and then a clamp. I’ve got tens of thousands of leak free miles on two of my other vehicles with no hoses popping off or even a leak. Lots of other stuff has leaked but not from the copper joints. I would be skeptical too had I not done it before with good results.

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That's pretty decent then. My experience with no flare at the end of the pipe seems to be different. I just usually weld three bumps on there so that the clamp / hose has something to stop against before it slides off.

Nice job so far. The hose looks like it would need more flexibility for off roading.

I installed my intercooler... Still waiting on piping to get here. I also finished hooking up my alternator. I went with a reverse install to make hooking up my intake piping easier. Trying to make good use of all that open space in front of the engine. I also Installed the new motor mounts. (the ones Dave suggested) They seem to have tamed the vibes down pretty will...













My new oil filter came today.
This is what I plan on using with my remote spin on filter.








Alternator video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKuaXbcqLjg


I also Made my MAP sensor flange.

Hasenwerk said:

That's pretty decent then. My experience with no flare at the end of the pipe seems to be different. I just usually weld three bumps on there so that the clamp / hose has something to stop against before it slides off.

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I think part of what has helped me is that I paint my pipes.... when they get hot the paint kind acts like a glue. Hey I got those motor mounts you told me about installed. I just assumed they are intended to be mounted straight up and down, (flat) so i made new motor mount brackets so the weight would be straight down on

I wanted to use the stock willys oil bath air filter but know the MAF cant get oily....so I decided to do a paper filter conversion and integrate the VW maf sensor into the willys housing. I think it turned out pretty good!

never mind the MAF, what about a runaway?!
I suppose it would be pretty unlikely, but yea

I suppose it could happen. a lot of old diesels came with oil bath air cleaners. The way they are made makes it unlikely. Its just a slow wick effect.

A-man930 said:

never mind the MAF, what about a runaway?!
I suppose it would be pretty unlikely, but yea

Click to expand...

Hasenwerk said:

That's pretty decent then. My experience with no flare at the end of the pipe seems to be different. I just usually weld three bumps on there so that the clamp / hose has something to stop against before it slides off.

Click to expand...

the upper and lower radiator hoses on my tacoma each have a hard pipe section with no bead... no issues so far after seven years although it's something i always planned to do

I like that filter housing setup.

Dumb question is that a GM 1 wire alternator? and can you turn it backwards? I know there is a GM 1 wire for boats that turn backwards. Though looking at them the only issue I see to turning one that way is the cooling fan. I would think the brushes would wear fine as they are straight on facing the armature.

Not a stupid question at all... Yes, it is a GM 1-wire alt. They can run in either direction. You are correct about the cooling fan. that is the only issue, but this one has been fitted with a reverse rotation fan.

Nice I suspected as much. Thanks for confirming.