BEW TDI PD Head Romovalv Replace Valves

she_loves_the_D

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Ok I'm starting this thread because i cannot for the life of me find any real information on the BEW head specifically.
And maybe to help someone searching in the future. This is not a write up. Just a place where we can get some tips and find the differences between removing the alh head and removing the BEW.
And of course for me to get help with this unexpected project along the way.
.
keep in mind my tools are limited and i do not have access to a lift. So my car is just on jack stands. Also im am no pro, this is my fist time doing something this big.
.
So any advice about removing the head or adjusting/replacing valves would be great. Little hang ups. Shortcuts. That's what this forum is all about.
If anybody has any links to adjusting the valves and injectors (if necessary)
Torque specs and order. Setting the timing (my timing belt snapped so the timing is going to be off)
 
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she_loves_the_D

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So far i am just trying to remove all that i can to get the head off.
I am going to take it out with the intake still attached. Just because it doesn't seem to be a way get to the bolts.

The first thing i had to do was remove what i think is a heat shield for the cv boot. It was a pain. connected with 3 hex bolts. I had to remove that just to get to the nuts that hold the downpipe to the turbo.

after that I drained the oil and coolant.
Removed the turbo to pancake pipe tube (not sure what thats called).
Going back i would have removed the turbo intake tube. That goes from the accordion to the turbo. Just to get it out of the way.
Most things are pretty self explanatory. Lots of fuel, coolant and vacuum lines.
Just a pain in the a$$ to get a lot of it off.

What i had trouble with (and ended up breaking) was the turbo feed line. It runs from right under the oil filter to the top of the turbo. I blindly tried to loosen it from under the car and ended up twisting the tube. Not sure if it was rusted or if i needed a special tool.

Now i think i have everything disconnected. I used the 12mm triple square (12 point) bit to take out all the head bolts, but it doesnt seem to be coming off.

I didn't remove anything on the timing belt side. I thought it looked like it was not connected. Is there anything that would prevent it from pulling up?
It looks like there might be a couple bolts that i can get to. but its hard to tell.

I think im going to have to undo the front exhaust mount too, to slide the studs out that are attached to the turbo.
 
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gforce1108

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You really should buy a Bentley manual. It has step by step instructions and all the torque specs for reassembly (also lists all the fasteners that must be replaced - and there are a lot). You can find used hard copies on ebay, etc. pretty cheap, but even new isn't bad.

Search for threads by Franko6 or contact him to rebuild your head. It's not as simple as replacing bent valves. He also has modifications for the BEW to improve the oiling to help camshaft life. I bought all the hardware to reinstall the head on the ALH I rebuild when he was fixing the head.
 

Mike_04GolfTDI

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she_loves_the_D

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You really should buy a Bentley manual. It has step by step instructions and all the torque specs for reassembly (also lists all the fasteners that must be replaced - and there are a lot). You can find used hard copies on ebay, etc. pretty cheap, but even new isn't bad.

Search for threads by Franko6 or contact him to rebuild your head. It's not as simple as replacing bent valves. He also has modifications for the BEW to improve the oiling to help camshaft life. I bought all the hardware to reinstall the head on the ALH I rebuild when he was fixing the head.
I found one. It does have the values which i will list here. The head removal instructions are pretty vague actually. Mine on my first post are more detailed.
But it doesnt really say what to inspect in for damage when the timing has been thrown off. Plus just some experienced tips go so much farther than any manual can.

I wish i had the money to just send the head out to have it fixed. But at that point I dont think the value of the car is worth the money for repair.

Removing the intake is easy after you've removed the EGR cooler.
This write-up helped me to do it when I was changing my turbo recently.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/a5/clean-intake-manifold-PD.htm
That is an awesome write up. Thank you. I might end up needing it if i cant slide it out with the intake attached.
Lots of good write ups that i didnt see there.

The manual says the plenum close-out panel will need to be removed to give more room.
 

she_loves_the_D

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The head is stuck on one last part. Im not sure if it is the exgaust flange or the plastic piece behind the pulleys.

Its loose but i can feel it getting stuck on something.

Also im having a hard time separating the exhaust from the turbo.
I loosened the front exhaust mount but it doesn't seem to want to budge.
 

she_loves_the_D

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Got it. It was me. Theres 3 nuts on the exhaust flange. Tensioner pulley had to come off. 15mm wrench that i apparently did not have.
 

Mike_04GolfTDI

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Got it. It was me. Theres 3 nuts on the exhaust flange. Tensioner pulley had to come off. 15mm wrench that i apparently did not have.

OMG... Yesterday I was going to say "You know there's 3 nuts, right?"

Then I thought, nooooo.... That's too obvious. I don't want to mention it.

Doh!
 

she_loves_the_D

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OMG... Yesterday I was going to say "You know there's 3 nuts, right?"

Then I thought, nooooo.... That's too obvious. I don't want to mention it.

Doh!
Yah if my hands wernt so greasy i would have smacked myself in the forehead.



So i got the head off and started pulling things off. trying to keep everything in the same order.
(the cam has to be spun a certain direction, then you can slide it straight up off of the pump and pull it out very easy)

The cam stopped right in the position that the manual says to put it in when you re-install it. (the first two lobes are positioned at even height.
Not that that matters because every single lifter was damaged. I was planning on replacing all the valves but some of these lifters are in pieces.
2 of them are lodged in there.

Also the super sweet trick for removing the clips on the valves is not working for this car. So im either buying/borrowing some tools. Or paying someone.
I think im going to call around and see who can even do it. It really doesnt seem any different from another head aside from the injector pumps.

There is a section of the chilton that says how to readjust them.
 

BobnOH

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If you live in an area with good libraries, might try there for a Bentley manual. It may (or not) have more detailed information.
 

she_loves_the_D

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If you live in an area with good libraries, might try there for a Bentley manual. It may (or not) have more detailed information.
Yah i found one. It just doesnt say anything about inspecting for damage after something like that.
It does have instructions on how to adjust the injectors though.
 

she_loves_the_D

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Right now im trying to decide on a used head that was in a car that was rear ended, but without warranty on valves/Lifters cam. (slim chance that anything is wrong with it)

or attempt to replace my valves and lifters for just $150ish less.

If i could know that the head was good through and through i would go that route for sure. I would still have my head to sell too.
 

gforce1108

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Right now im trying to decide on a used head that was in a car that was rear ended, but without warranty on valves/Lifters cam. (slim chance that anything is wrong with it)

or attempt to replace my valves and lifters for just $150ish less.

If i could know that the head was good through and through i would go that route for sure. I would still have my head to sell too.
Even if you replace the valves and lifters there is most likely more damage. That's why everyone has been recommending sending it to Frank. The valves mushroom and damage the valve guides. Replace only the valves/lifters and you'll probably find a broken valve within 10k punching a hole through a piston.

I've done several other head repair jobs after broken timing belts, but TDI heads go to Frank. With the cam 'issues' on the PD motors - it'd be worth having him do the upgraded oiling (although I have 218k on my original cam with no issues when I last checked at the second belt change ~25k ago).
 

she_loves_the_D

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Ok. Just to follow up, I finally got it running again. cant believe it took over a month.

I found someone in my area that wasn't afraid of it. I was planning on just having them inspect the head to make sure nothing was damaged, but he offered me a good deal to just remove/inspect and install the new parts.
(nobody ever said how much the forum guru charges, but i feel like shipping would have been more than what i spent)

It took him forever though. Most of it was waiting for parts. Or for me to order some of the parts his vendor didn't carry.

When it was said and done the 8 valves, 8 lifters, valve guides and keepers plus the labor was just under $400.

He said he would have charged more but had already offered me a lower price. And since he took 3 weeks I wasnt budging. Even then he said it would have been around $450.

He said the hardest part was getting the wedged in lifters out.
Even installed some lifters and then didnt like the way the lifters pushed the valves out so he ordered another brand. Overall great service. Just Cali style extra lax attitude.

I got a timing belt kit off of ebay ( I know, scary right) for just $125.
It came with a gates belt and the same water pump and pulleys offered on idparts or kerma for about twice that.

Found a timing tool for $10 on ebay.

BTW, I am an experienced ebay shopper. There are things you can and things you cant buy off ebay. If you compare parts in sets to the parts on legit websites you can usually verify the quality.

The tool had the exact picture the every other company had up for $50.

The gaskets were about another $100. Got them from a great company I found called Pelican Parts in L.A.
Great prices and they even had awesome customer service when i called them. And if your in California it takes no more than 2 days to ship.
They even had the keepers.

All in all it was under $800 including oil, coolant, and a new stupid 7v glow plug that i broke when i set the head down.

Also broke the turbo oil feed line.
Got a new badass braided steel one from ebay for $20. I messaged the seller and they said they got it from darkside.
http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/braided-oil-feed-line-for-1-9-and-2-0-tdi.html.

Much less intimidating than it looked. I think the hardest part to get off was the first piece. The heat shield that goes over the axle under the downpipe. Aside from my dumbass mistakes Id say it would have been 5 hours removal. and 5 hours install. Thats with limited hand tools and working on dirt with 2 jacks and a jack stand. And a tarp of course.

Along the way i found some very helpful links. and videos about the bew. Ill be posting them in the first or second post when i have more time.
 

turbovan+tdi

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Did you replace the cam? I hope so. :(
 

she_loves_the_D

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EA288 (mk7 tdi) kerma 1 million ftlb
Did you replace the cam? I hope so. :(
No. I inspected it and then i had machinist inspect it. It looked good and was even on all lobes. Just how it is supposed to be at 140k.

I guess i could've spent 250 on an aftermarket one just to be safe. But it seemed unnecessary.

When i was removing the tandum pump i accidentally backed out the adjustment screw an unknown amount befire i realized what i was doing. I put it back to where i think it belongs and it started and runs fine with no cel.
But im worried it may be affecting the performance.
It might just be because my other car is also a BEW but with a 5sp manual instead of the auto.
Great engine to have with a 5sp btw. Feels so much better than the alh did.
 

turbovan+tdi

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No. I inspected it and then i had machinist inspect it. It looked good and was even on all lobes. Just how it is supposed to be at 140k.
I guess i could've spent 250 on an aftermarket one just to be safe. But it seemed unnecessary.
When i was removing the tandum pump i accidentally backed out the adjustment screw an unknown amount befire i realized what i was doing. I put it back to where i think it belongs and it started and runs fine with no cel.
But im worried it may be affecting the performance.
It might just be because my other car is also a BEW but with a 5sp manual instead of the auto.
Great engine to have with a 5sp btw. Feels so much better than the alh did.
You can't run an old cam with new lifters and vice versa, they are mate when new and you will flatten your cam very fast. False economy to replace one and not the other.

So far, I like my wife's ALH over my PD, it just doesn't have the powerband hers does, hoping that changes with a turbo swap.
 

boisebiker

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Regardless of what everyone else is saying. Good job on the work. It is a hard task to take on. I am in the same boat and am not planning on changing the cam. I will be looking for updates on how it is running. I wont be done till spring so I am interested in how it all works out for you.
 

turbovan+tdi

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Regardless of what everyone else is saying. Good job on the work. It is a hard task to take on. I am in the same boat and am not planning on changing the cam. I will be looking for updates on how it is running. I wont be done till spring so I am interested in how it all works out for you.
Then you'll be doing the cam job again very soon. Foolish not to replace as a set.
 

she_loves_the_D

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EA288 (mk7 tdi) kerma 1 million ftlb
You can't run an old cam with new lifters and vice versa, they are mate when new and you will flatten your cam very fast. False economy to replace one and not the other.
So far, I like my wife's ALH over my PD, it just doesn't have the powerband hers does, hoping that changes with a turbo swap.
I do not get the logic in that. Maybe if your cam lobes are damaged.
Not saying your wrong, i just don't get it. Maybe you can elaborate.

when i removed the intake i noticed a flap which the alh doesnt have. someone said it basically closes the majority of the intake at lower rpms, which increases the velocity of the air. (somehow) giving more torque at lower rpms. then opens up under boost to allow more cfm for a more linear torque curve.
Of course this doesnt make sense to me considering the piston sucks air in so the flap would limit it. Then of course the velocity stacks on the aircooled carbs changed the torque curve. Interesting, but for another time.
Going from driving an alh for 6 years to driving a bew, I can say that it is true for the torque curve. The PD feels just as "torquey" at 1800 rpm but does not fall off at 2500.
The alh is like a tractor (which I love) compared to the PD.
Never tuned the alh, but i put 130k on it. I put that thing through hell. and its still out there somewhere.
For giggles, have a link to the Ebay timing belt kit you installed ?
Hope this makes you shiggle all over yourself:D
GATES timing belt kit
Its actually the same parts in the kits from kerma or idparts. Plus shipping was next day.
Kermas price isnt bad though considering it comes with a serpentine belt and all the bolts.

If you have ever ordered parts from a company that dropships and they accidentally included the original invoice you would know just how much we get Ef'd in the A on them.

Theres no reason someone couldnt sell a kit for 120 that they probably pruchaced for 70 or less. thats a $50 profit for 5 minutes worth of work.
 
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turbovan+tdi

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I do not get the logic in that. Maybe if your cam lobes are damaged.
Not saying your wrong, i just don't get it. Maybe you can elaborate.

when i removed the intake i noticed a flap which the alh doesnt have. someone said it basically closes the majority of the intake at lower rpms, which increases the velocity of the air. (somehow) giving more torque at lower rpms. then opens up under boost to allow more cfm for a more linear torque curve.
Of course this doesnt make sense to me considering the piston sucks air in so the flap would limit it. Then of course the velocity stacks on the aircooled carbs changed the torque curve. Interesting, but for another time.
Going from driving an alh for 6 years to driving a bew, I can say that it is true for the torque curve. The PD feels just as "torquey" at 1800 rpm but does not fall off at 2500.
The cam is ground to make the lifter rotate as the lifter face is actually convex. When you install new cam and lifters, they MATE together and over the normal life of the cam, the lifter rotates. When the lifter stops rotating, the cam goes flat. When you install new lifters with an old cam, they are no longer mated and the angle ground into the cam is usually gone, so what happens, the lifter doesn't rotate and voila, your cam goes flat. The stock PD cam isn't very good brand new so mixing and matching new and used cam items is false economy, and also considering the labour to get it replaced, just doesn't make sense.

Which flap are you talking about? The one at the lower intake or the one at the intake by the EGR valve?
 

PGM jetta

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The butterfly flaps in the intake manifold are emissions related. You can remove them completely and not harm anything. There are rare instances where an engine has "ate" one, obviously not a good outcome
 

turbovan+tdi

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The butterfly flaps in the intake manifold are emissions related. You can remove them completely and not harm anything. There are rare instances where an engine has "ate" one, obviously not a good outcome
Its for emissions-egr and also for power. Closed they promote swirl for egr and fuel mixing and torque at lower rpm, then they open up for more power at higher rpm.
 

she_loves_the_D

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EA288 (mk7 tdi) kerma 1 million ftlb
The cam is ground to make the lifter rotate as the lifter face is actually convex. When you install new cam and lifters, they MATE together and over the normal life of the cam, the lifter rotates. When the lifter stops rotating, the cam goes flat. When you install new lifters with an old cam, they are no longer mated and the angle ground into the cam is usually gone, so what happens, the lifter doesn't rotate and voila, your cam goes flat.

Which flap are you talking about? The one at the lower intake or the one at the intake by the EGR valve?
That makes sense. Thank You.
So basically its putting the majority of the pressure on one side of the lifter. Does that make it spin at the same rate as the cam?
What about the part of the lifter that is spinning sideways against the cam?
Wouldn't that cause more wear than just lubing it and letting it push down without spinning.
I was trying to find a youtube video or something.

Ill ask the machinist if he tested it. I know he pointed out to me that the lifters rotate inside. He was talking about making sure the sides weren't damaged at that point though.
If not, then hopefully it runs good for another 80k until the timing belt gets changed again.
The cam looked great though. I looked at some pictures of worn cams and this one looks brand new. But i dont think it was tested for that angle you speak of.
Honestly, the timing belt isnt so scary anymore.
Thats one of the reasons i wanted to do it myself. Experience.


Its for emissions-egr and also for power. Closed they promote swirl for egr and fuel mixing and torque at lower rpm, then they open up for more power at higher rpm.
Thats the one im talking about. I was just pointing out one the the differences between the PD and the ALH. When its explained that way, it reflects on the drivablilty. It could be placebo
 

turbovan+tdi

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2003 TDI 2.0L ALH, auto, silver wagon, lowered, Colt stage 2 cam, ported head,205 injectors, 1756 turbo, Malone 2.0, 3" exhaust, 18" BBS RC GLI rims. 2004 blue GSW TDI, 5 speed, lowered, GLI BBS wheels painted black, Malone stage 2, Aerotur
That makes sense. Thank You.
So basically its putting the majority of the pressure on one side of the lifter. Does that make it spin at the same rate as the cam?
What about the part of the lifter that is spinning sideways against the cam?
Wouldn't that cause more wear than just lubing it and letting it push down without spinning.
I was trying to find a youtube video or something.
Ill ask the machinist if he tested it. I know he pointed out to me that the lifters rotate inside. He was talking about making sure the sides weren't damaged at that point though.
If not, then hopefully it runs good for another 80k until the timing belt gets changed again.
The cam looked great though. I looked at some pictures of worn cams and this one looks brand new. But i dont think it was tested for that angle you speak of.
Honestly, the timing belt isnt so scary anymore.
Thats one of the reasons i wanted to do it myself. Experience.
You really can't see the built in slope, you need a machinist or cam guy to check it.

That lifter turning is what stops cam wear, when the lifter stops rotating, that's when the cam goes flat. Read up at Comp Coms or search google for small block chevy cams, they use the same design. ;)


Thats the one im talking about. I was just pointing out one the the differences between the PD and the ALH. When its explained that way, it reflects on the drivablilty. It could be placebo
Pd's are more refined, prelude to the common rail so they got a little more technical, lol. I disconnected mine and didn't notice anything but I also have th EGR turned off. If its jammed shut, it will cause mpg issues and lack of power up top.
 

pkhoury

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Medina, TX
TDI
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This thread was an interesting read. Had my Golf towed up to alphaseinor in Denton, because it died while I was towing. He figured out the problem pretty quickly - missing teeth on the TB. I'm scared what the final bill will be, but I needed a new head gasket anyways, and I'll probably replace the camshaft while I'm in there, among other stuff. I guess it'll almost be like having a new engine, right?
 

ghohouston

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This thread was an interesting read. Had my Golf towed up to alphaseinor in Denton, because it died while I was towing. He figured out the problem pretty quickly - missing teeth on the TB. I'm scared what the final bill will be, but I needed a new head gasket anyways, and I'll probably replace the camshaft while I'm in there, among other stuff. I guess it'll almost be like having a new engine, right?
Brian is a good guy, and won't steer you wrong.
 

aja8888

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Out of TDI's
I guess it'll almost be like having a new engine, right?
Yes, especially if you bent a few rods and those have to be replaced (maybe you will get lucky and only need the top end done). Last head I replaced with a new cam and lifters, etc, etc, (but not connecting rods or pistons) ended up costing about $3K.
 
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