Multiple intermittent electrical related trouble codes

Multiple intermittent electrical related trouble codes ... such as (partial list):

03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010
00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46)
003 - Mechanical Failure - Intermittent
00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
01325 - Control Module for Tire Pressure Monitoring (J502)
004 - No Signal/Communication

15-Airbags -- Status: Malfunction 0010
9483008 - Seat Occupied Recognition
B10B3 00 [008] - Function Restriction due to Implausible Message(s)
Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010

44-Steering Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010

52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: Malfunction 0010

56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010

These intermittent error codes (on a 2011 JSW) have been occurring for about a month now. I've had the battery tested by AutoZone (current Duralast battery is around 2 years old) once so far since the problem will sometimes go away for a day or two after clearing the computer codes with VCDS and then come back again.

So far I have not been able to figure out what the root cause is but since the error messages appear to be out of spec related error messages and random, my thoughts have been that it is the battery even though it has been tested to be okay one time so far by AutoZone.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Other than the related ABS, Airbag, TPMS dash lights appearing on the dash randomly when driving, the car does not exhibit any actual problems.

This thread http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=451157 points to the problem in their case being a bad wheel bearing. That is a possibility and I will pull the (back left) tire and further inspect the bearing, abs sensor, and ring, but the other random messages such as for the radio and passenger door has me puzzled as why they would be triggered too. If the ABS sensor, maybe it is shorting out and bleeding into other systems by dragging the system voltage down.

I've checked the battery with my charger (this model http://www.sears.com/diehard-platin...lerId=Sears&prdNo=12&blockNo=12&blockType=G12) a couple of times after the car had been driven at highway speeds for about 30 min. and it only registered 85% instead of 100% (alternator / charging system appears fine too) so that leads me to thinking that the battery may actually be having issues...

The underhood fuseblock sometimes has problems with fuse 16?. Check the underhood fuse block for melted/deformed looking fuses. VW will fix it under extended warranty on the fuse block if that is causing the problem.

turbobrick240 said:

The underhood fuseblock sometimes has problems with fuse 16?. Check the underhood fuse block for melted/deformed looking fuses. VW will fix it under extended warranty on the fuse block if that is causing the problem.

Click to expand...

I inspected the fuse block and didn't see any signs of trouble there so I'll have to keep digging further.

Thanks for the suggestion.

This evening, I took the back two tires off, checked for any possible wheel bearing or abs sensor issues and didn't notice anything showing signs of a problem.

CFTDIdriver said:

These intermittent error codes (on a 2011 JSW) have been occurring for about a month now. I've had the battery tested by AutoZone (current Duralast battery is around 2 years old) once so far since the problem will sometimes go away for a day or two after clearing the computer codes with VCDS and then come back again.

Click to expand...

Had the battery load tested and the charging system tested a 2nd time yesterday and it still checks out ok by AutoZone staff.

I checked the battery again tonight and now it's reading 70% charge (nothing has been used to discharge it a little since driving it today) so I'm still not convinced the battery is 100% good. Maybe I should have it checked out at another Autozone or another company, vw service (w/ a car wash), etc.... I considered swapping batteries from my 03 but it won't physically fit since the MK4 Jetta's battery is about 2" longer lengthwise.

I'll have to further research what the issue is and take it from there, but if anyone has any tips or suggestions please feel free to chime in.

I'm betting that it's the left rear speed sensor/sensor ring/bearing assembly.

You referenced my thread above and when I pulled the wheel and visibly checked things out, everything looked fine.

I replaced the speed sensor and that didn't fix anything. Once I replaced the right rear bearing assembly all was well once again. I still have the old bearing (with a new speed sensor installed and the first speed sensor that I assume is still good). If you'd like to try one of these sensors, let me know.

I don't know what to tell you about the other errors you're seeing.

Conrad -JSW said:

I'm betting that it's the left rear speed sensor/sensor ring/bearing assembly.

You referenced my thread above and when I pulled the wheel and visibly checked things out, everything looked fine.

I replaced the speed sensor and that didn't fix anything. Once I replaced the right rear bearing assembly all was well once again. I still have the old bearing (with a new speed sensor installed and the first speed sensor that I assume is still good). If you'd like to try one of these sensors, let me know.

I don't know what to tell you about the other errors you're seeing.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips and offer on the sensor.

I plan to next clean the sensor contacts (the sensor itself too if I can get it out w/o damaging it or extensive labor) and see if that helps and then take it from there if needed. The problem has gone from intermittent to constant so I have parked it in my garage and will not drive it until I get the issue figured out and resolved.

I'm planning (more likely now than not and have selected that option via the vw claims portal) to possibly do the buyback option later this year with it depending on how dieselgate pans out so whatever I end up doing I don't want to put too much in to it. The buyback program stated "driven under its own power" and even if I don't fully repair it, it currently falls under those requirements... Unless I uncover something stating its necessary or will devalue it more than the repair cost, I won't even do an oil change if I don't have to. It's been past the 1 yr mark since its last oil change but not 10k miles so in my book an oil change won't be needed unless I plan to put 2K + more miles on it between now and the buyback point. Once a vehicle is past the warranty stage I no longer acknowledge the 1 yr OCI and only go by the mileage or environment conditions and such if done sooner than 10K miles. Having another vehicle to use as an alternate and not driving as much as I used to, I don't currently put a ton of miles on my vehicles.

Removed (with little effort / wasn't stuck or anything), inspected, cleaned, re-installed the back left sensor (based on the code scan) and the computer is still throwing the same codes (below). Tested the battery after it sat overnight and it was down to 65% charge level so it appears that something is drawing more than normal standby juice and pulling the battery down faster than normal as well. The sensor was in good condition, barely dirty, and the wiring appears to be in good shape too.

Current VCDS scan:
(removed non-faulting sections)

01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: Malfunction 0010
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: Malfunction 0010
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
1C-Position Sensing -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes (J104) Labels: 1K0-907-379-60EC1F.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 BC HW: 1K0 907 379 BC
Component: ESP MK60EC1 H30 0106
Revision: 00H30001
Coding: 114B600C492600FD881306EB921F0042B70000
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 74EC6C46D7A7039E6A-8020

2 Faults Found:
01325 - Control Module for Tire Pressure Monitoring (J502)
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 84
Mileage: 84262 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.02.20
Time: 22:10:47

Freeze Frame:
Count: 3
Count: 14
Count: 4096
Count: 16390
Count: 47104
Count: 0
Count: 1
Count: 0

00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101100
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 84
Mileage: 84262 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.02.20
Time: 22:10:47

Freeze Frame:
Count: 3
Count: 14
Count: 4096
Count: 64
Count: 47104
Count: 0
Count: 1
Count: 0


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags (J234) Labels: 5K0-959-655.clb
Part No SW: 5K0 959 655 B HW: 5K0 959 655 B
Component: AirbagVW10G 021 0706
Serial number: 003C4R00ZP8S
Coding: 00003044
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
ASAM Dataset: EV_AirbaVW10SMEVW360 A01012
ROD: EV_AirbaVW10SMEVW360_SE36.rod
VCID: 39729D72B845BEF679-806C

Seat occupied recognition:
Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 1KM 959 339 HW: 1KM 959 339
Component: BF-Gewichtss. 007 0001
Serial number: ---0000R--0005CAGP00

Crash sensor for side airbag; driver side:
Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 1KM 955 557 HW: 1KM 955 557
Component: S.Sens.Fahr.V H01 ----
Serial number: 3572MSME27316054ZZZL

Crash sensor for side airbag; front passenger side:
Subsystem 3 - Part No SW: 1KM 955 557 HW: 1KM 955 557
Component: S.Sens.Beif.V H01 ----
Serial number: 3582MSME4B582257ZZZ

Crash sensor for side airbag; rear; driver side:
Component: S.Sens.Fahr.H --- ----
Serial number: 3511HSME272E1323ZZZF

Crash sensor for side airbag; rear; passenger side:
Component: S.Sens.Beif.H --- ----
Serial number: 3521HSME1C0B0723ZZZI

Crash sensor for front airbag; driver side:
Component: F.Sens.Fahr --- ----
Serial number: 35527SME541E4C23ZZZL

Crash sensor for front airbag; front passenger side:
Component: F.Sens.Beif --- ----
Serial number: 35627SME0C454F23ZZZM

1 Fault Found:
9483008 - Seat Occupied Recognition
B10B3 00 [137] - Function Restriction due to Implausible Message(s)
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 84
Mileage: 84262 km
Date: 2016.09.29
Time: 22:11:04


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1Kx-909-14x-44.clb
Part No: 1K0 909 144 J
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl. 70 3001
Revision: 00H17000
Shop #: WSC 02069 000 90108
VCID: 3162A552A83576B6C1-8064

1 Fault Found:
01316 - ABS Control Module
013 - Check DTC Memory
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01101101
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 84
Mileage: 84262 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.02.20
Time: 22:10:47

Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 13.25 V
DD
Temperature: 33.0°C
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Count: 0


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio (J503) Labels: 5M0-035-1xx-56.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 035 180 AC HW: 1K0 035 180 AC
Component: Radio Prem-8 H13 0043
Revision: -----26S Serial number: VWZ4Z7K3122154
Coding: 0500040004
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 61C215127855863611-8034

1 Fault Found:
02635 - Tuner Not Enabled/Activated
000 - -
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 84
Mileage: 84262 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.02.20
Time: 22:10:46



End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 02:49)--------------------------

My next thought is to log the ABS sensor output when driving it to see what they are doing. Heard of it, but never done it myself so I'll have to read up on it...

CFTDIdriver said:

My next thought is to log the ABS sensor output when driving it to see what they are doing. Heard of it, but never done it myself so I'll have to read up on it...

Click to expand...

Logging and displaying the data from all four wheel speed sensors was easy and informative. Check the tread you referenced above for instructions. It's not really going to tell you anything that you don't already know but it's nice to see the graph anyway.

When I did it I could easily see the data being dropped from the right rear speed sensor.

I priced the ABS sensor and they range from $10 on eBay, idparts.com is about $40 w/ shipping, $54+tax from AuoZone, to $155 + tax from the dealer. $100 for the dealer to just to look at it / diagnose what they think it is and probably about $300 to fix if just the sensor itself.

Since AutoZone can get it overnight and allows returns if not the culprit, I plan to order it and take that route next. Try the simple things first! Could order off Ebay and get in a few days to a week and gamble on a cheap made in china part (which may work fine) but would prevent use of the car for at least about a week...(if the root problem).

If the car is stationary, I don't see a hub issue causing an error after the computer has been reset. If the sensor hub is out of whack, it would definitely cause an issue while the vehicle or hub alone is in in motion. This is what makes logical sense to me anyway...

Autozone will not accept returns on electrical items if they are used.. they will accept returns if the part is unused and or defected...

if you say "it did not fix the problem" you will be stuck with that part....

be careful with packaging and the part itself...

The AutoZone person I spoke to said they would, but will keep that in mind as the person may have been (most likely so) incorrect. Many venders certainly don't accept returns on electrical parts, but do for new / resalable condition parts in general.

Always get what a salesperson says in writing if you want to make sure its the truth, especially car salesmen! Hopefully it corrects the issue so that more or other parts are not needed.

Thanks for the heads-up!

Your issue sounds exactly like mine did. If you'll read through my entire thread on this you'll see that I tired everything that you're talking about.

In the end only replacing the bearing solved the problem. Since you're selling it back to VW don't worry about it.

One other thing. I'm fairly certain that the ABS was inop on my car with all the ABS errors. If you drive it you may want to keep that in mind.

Yes, there is a chance the bearing may need to be replaced to fix it right and certainly don't want to go through the expense of it if just going to sell it back in a couple of months.

Other than being a nuisance with random lights and noises while driving, possibly preventing ABS and airbag functionality (if ever needed), it is also starting to affect the transmission from shifting correctly at times probably due to the erratic false signals from the ABS sensor or whatever is the true culprit. I normally don't drag my feet on such things or take Band-Aid repair measures, but this time is the exception.

I was seriously considering just ordering a cheap sensor from Ebay and just garaging it during shipping time, but my wife would like to drive it at times before we sell it back / replace it so her stance pushed me towards trying the AutoZone sensor route instead... Wives / spouses (I'll stop there) certainly have a way of getting what they want and influencing what we normally would do! At any rate though, I do appreciate the helpful feedback.

It sounds to me like a low voltage issue. Could be caused by a weak battery, bad ground connection, or faulty fuse block. In my case it was the fuse block.

The speed sensor I ordered was supposed to be in on Sat. but it looks like it won't be in until Mon. or Tue. and as you mentioned it may not correct the issue.

Where did you purchase your replacement bearing / hub assembly?

I also logged the output of the sensors and the LR (left / drivers side rear) sensor certainly shows a speed reading that appears to be way off from the others at times.

58 58 58 58
58 58 58 58
58 58 58 57
58 57 57 57
57 57 57 57
57 57 171 57
57 57 160 57
57 58 56 57
57 58 56 57
57 58 56 58
56 58 56 57
56 58 56 58
56 58 56 57
56 57 56 57

I also removed the sensor again and cleaned the mounting area and also used a q-tip wetted in alcohol and a rag to help clean the exciter ring surface through the sensor hole. Didn't help but couldn't hurt either. I suppose the caliper would need to be removed in order to really be able to visibly inspect it and or clean it completely.

I tried measuring the resistance of the LR sensor and it read in the 4-5K ohm range while the known to be good RR sensor didn't produce a measurable ohm reading at all (the meter used at the time maxed out at 2000K ohm) which surprised me. Not sure what the proper spec ranges should be for theses cars, but I would think an ohm test should be able to confirm if a sensor is good or not.

If anyone has knowledge / info on testing the VW sensors please feel free to chime in or provide a thread link on the topic.

turbobrick240 said:

It sounds to me like a low voltage issue. Could be caused by a weak battery, bad ground connection, or faulty fuse block. In my case it was the fuse block.

Click to expand...

Even though the battery is testing as good by Autozone I'm not fully confident that it is working 100% as well as it should and is probably leading to some of the system trouble codes. I've inspected the fuse block and didn't notice any physical signs of a problem and with planning to do the buy back, as long as the car remains drivable I don't plan to replace anything in general unless it's absolutely necessary.

CFTDIdriver said:

The speed sensor I ordered was supposed to be in on Sat. but it looks like it won't be in until Mon. or Tue. and as you mentioned it may not correct the issue.

Where did you purchase your replacement bearing / hub assembly?

I also logged the output of the sensors and the LR (left / drivers side rear) sensor certainly shows a speed reading that appears to be way off from the others at times.

58 58 58 58
58 58 58 58
58 58 58 57
58 57 57 57
57 57 57 57
57 57 171 57
57 57 160 57
57 58 56 57
57 58 56 57
57 58 56 58
56 58 56 57
56 58 56 58
56 58 56 57
56 57 56 57

I also removed the sensor again and cleaned the mounting area and also used a q-tip wetted in alcohol and a rag to help clean the exciter ring surface through the sensor hole. Didn't help but couldn't hurt either. I suppose the caliper would need to be removed in order to really be able to visibly inspect it and or clean it completely.

I tried measuring the resistance of the LR sensor and it read in the 4-5K ohm range while the known to be good RR sensor didn't produce a measurable ohm reading at all (tried all meter ranges multiple times) which surprised me. Not sure what the proper spec ranges should be for theses cars, but I would think an ohm test should be able to confirm if a sensor is good or not.

If anyone has knowledge / info on testing the VW sensors please feel free to chime in or provide a thread link on the topic.

Click to expand...

When I graphed the speed data on my Jetta the offending speed sensor was WAY more erratic than yours seems to be.

I just measured the resistance of the original speed sensor that I replaced and it was essentially an open circuit at 6.8 M ohms.

I bought the replacement speed sensor at Rock Auto and the replacement bearing / hub assembly at ECS Tuning (I just tired to get into my account at ECS and it's not taking my password and won't let me reset my old password).

I created multiple logs and the output seems to vary quite a bit while at times the readings appear to be normal (basically intermittent). While monitoring the sensors live, one time I noticed the numbers of the back left sensor still showing speed readings while the three other sensors were correctly reading 0 and the car was stationary at the time... I then put the car in reverse for a few feet and then back forward again and it returned to 0.

Once I get it, I'll certainly measure the resistance of the new sensor and compare it to the current one. If the same or very similar and still throws a code, I may remove the caliper and brake rotor so that I can better inspect / clean the exciter ring. Though, throwing a new error message with the ABS module codes cleared before the car or hub is in motion leads me to think the sensor itself may have an issue or it could be an electrical issue elseware...

Conrad -JSW, having a bad bearing, did your sensor have any marks on it to indicate it physically made contact with the hub / ring? That ohm reading you got is much higher than mine and also higher than spec numbers I've come across trying to find out what the correct resistance reading should be for these VW Jetta sensors. Such a high ohm reading would certainly point to that sensor being bad if they usually measure in the hundreds or low kilo ohm range.

This site states most sensors should read 450 to 2200 ohms:

"With magnetic WSS sensors, you can check the integrity of the sensor by connecting an ohmmeter across its terminals. The resistance specs will vary depending on the application, but most sensors should read 450 to 2200 ohms (always look up the exact specifications because they can vary a great deal from one vehicle application to another). If a sensor reads open, shorted or is out of specifications, it can’t generate an accurate signal and must be replaced."
http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/diagnosing-wheel-speed-sensors/


This VW related one mentioned 1000-1300 ohm:
http://www.vwforum.com/forums/f15/testing-wheel-speed-sensors-55557/

I did not have time to read all the replies... A faulty ignition switch can throw multiple codes... I had mine replaced under warranty.... It cleared all my codes.

gmcjetpilot said:

I did not have time to read all the replies... A faulty ignition switch can throw multiple codes... I had min replaced under warranty.... It cleared all my codes.

Click to expand...

Good thing to keep mind or watch out for. Haven't come across anything to indicate or point to a possible ignition switch issue up to this point.

Should get an ABS sensor I ordered in tomorrow and will take it from there. Thanks

CFTDIdriver said:

I created multiple logs and the output seems to vary quite a bit while at times the readings appear to be normal (basically intermittent). While monitoring the sensors live, one time I noticed the numbers of the back left sensor still showing speed readings while the three other sensors were correctly reading 0 and the car was stationary at the time... I then put the car in reverse for a few feet and then back forward again and it returned to 0.

Once I get it, I'll certainly measure the resistance of the new sensor and compare it to the current one. If the same or very similar and still throws a code, I may remove the caliper and brake rotor so that I can better inspect / clean the exciter ring. Though, throwing a new error message with the ABS module codes cleared before the car or hub is in motion leads me to think the sensor itself may not have an issue or it could be an electrical issue elseware...

Conrad -JSW, having a bad bearing, did your sensor have any marks on it to indicate it physically made contact with the hub / ring? That ohm reading you got is much higher than mine and also higher than spec numbers I've come across trying to find out what the correct resistance reading should be for these VW Jetta sensors. Such a high ohm reading would certainly point to that sensor being bad if they usually measure in the hundreds or low kilo ohm range.

Click to expand...

No, the sensor looked fine, no marks of any kind.

I'd be REALLY surprised if any cleaning that you can do with the caliper removed will solve the problem. If you have the caliper removed you're more than half way to replacing the bearing...

When I replaced the RR bearing there were nothing that looked bad at all about the bearing or any of the assemblies on the surface (no noise either). Once I had the old bearing out I couldn't plainly see that there was an issue but it was inside of the bearing. I don't know how that affected the sensors reading of the wheel rotation though.

I got the new sensor this afternoon and it measures 14.5 M ohms and slowly drops so if actually a good sensor the normal reading for these Jetta MK6 cars must be in the mega ohm range which is not inline with the 200 - 2K ohm info collected before but different generations may have differing sensor specs. The meter I was first using (also used to measure the RR sensor earlier) tops out at 2 mega ohms so that is apparently why it didn't register on the meter at the time. That sensor is a known good one so that supports the higher ohm reading as possibly being correct.

I'll now put it on the car and see what it does. Hopefully I didn't get a dud sensor.