essential tools for beginner

Just looking for some suggestions and advice as to the "must have" tools and common nut/bolt/socket wrench sizes needed to take the more basic shade tree fixes and maintenance. Right now I plan on doing:

- oil changes

- replacing power steering line

-(maybe) cleaning turbo/actuator

-valve cover gasket replacement at rear of engine

thanks jeff

I just put my mk4 wagon on the road after a rather extensive amount of time on the lift.

I replaced suspension, did the auto to manual conversion, and pulled all of the interior out for paint and whatnot. I replaced all my speakers and the Monsoon head unit with an RMT100.

This car uses every tool in the set. 10MM-21mm, we used every size of wrench and socket.

A set of Torx nutdrivers is required.

Also you will no doubt need a set of triple square bits. a short set is good, but there are some times when a longer bit was nice to have. Bellhousing bolts were where we knew we needed them, but they pop up in other places as well.

Good luck, we have a shop full of tools but this car sent us to the store a couple of times.

-Metric wrench set (8mm through 19mm). Most of those sets will not include the 15 and 16mm.
-Metric socket set (same as above) (3/8 and 1/2 drive each with extensions and wobble joints)
-Allen tool set
-Allen Hex Bit metric kit. Actually, the 5mm 1/4 inch drive for valve cover bolts and 6mm 3/8 inch drive for the harmonic balancer is about all you'll ever need. So, may be cheaper to buy high quality individually and use with the socket sets above.
-Variety of screw drivers
-Torx driver set as you will need the T25 to remove the screws from the bottom plastic shield.
- Pliers (regular and needle nose)
- Vice grips
- Crescent wrench
- Side cutters
- Hose clamp removal tool(s) (I just use my Fuller pliers)
- Snap ring pliers
- ? as needed tools!

I don't think the gasket is replaceable on the Valve Cover .... seems I've seen ads for such but not sure if they are any better than just cleaning up the old one and torque the screws properly. Use some RTV in the "corners" at the bearing caps.

Buy 6 point sockets. IIRC the only 12 point you will need is a 19mm for the crank bolt. A 3/4 12 point will also work perfectly fine.

Your best bet is to wait for a good sale and buy the biggest socket set you can. It will likely have all the sockets you'll need for basic maintenance. The last one I bought even came with Torx and allens.
Then buy a wrench set and a screwdriver set.
Jacks and jackstands of course.

I'm pretty sure the power steering lines are a pain to change so you might need some line wrenches and stubby wrenches. I haven't done that on these cars though so maybe not. It will also depend on how much rust you have on your car.

The suggestion to buy a big socket set is good. If you're starting from nothing, I'd start with a mechanic's set that includes sockets, screwdrivers, pliers, nut drivers, and combination wrenches. Then build from there.

Harbor Freight for cheaper. Something like this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/301-pc-mechanics-tool-set-63464.html

or go with Craftsman for mid-grade.

Some Other general tools, 3/8 and 1/2 in drive torque wrenches, 1/2 in breaker bar, good floor jack and set of jack stands and ramps. If you're going to do suspension and axle work: Ball joint remover tool, 4-5 lb sledge, 30 mm 12-point socket for axle nuts.

Brett

Hint: If you are just starting to build a toolbox the FIRST set of sockets you NEED is a QUALITY set of 6-point ones, both "normal" and deep.

DO NOT buy 12-points as your first and do not go cheap. Spend the money. Craftsman is about the *cheapest* I'd consider. The reason is this: When you have a crusty, nasty fastener you need to remove that Chineesium socket -- especially if it's a 12-point -- will have enough slop in it to round it off instead of removing it! NOW YOU ARE SCREWED!

The amount of time wasted dealing with that if it happens will greatly increase your swearing quotient for the month and depending on where that fastener is and how bad access to it happens to be it can be an extraordinarily un-funny event. The high-quality 6-point sockets greatly reduce the risk of this happening and for that reason they ought to be the very first things you buy.

I will whole heartedly agree with Genesis, Ive kept my eye on eBay and have purchased quite an extensive set of Mac Tools , tools and sockets and a ratchet over the last year or two. Nothing is more frustrating than rounding off a bolt head, Allen head or torx fastner with a cheap set of garbage wrenches.

That’s not to say that everything I have is Mac, I also have craftsman, Kobalt and a smattering of others. Mac has become the sockets and ratchets that I use the most. The other brands are old enough to have been made in the US before those brands sold themselves out to the devil.

If you plan on doing your own work invest accordingly.

Thorsen has been the brand that I have used for years and years! Made in the USA and occasionally I find good old stuff on eBay, generally at a premium price though.

Craftsman made some good stuff years ago as well as some junk... junk now. To me, Craftsman seem to be sort of clubby.

A good number of my tools were purchased on an as needed basis. In this case, I've always made an effort to buy quality even though it was a spur of the moment need.

I don't like "slick handle" ratchets. It amazes me at the number of brand names that make them. And, I don't care much for those with rubber on the handles.


As a thought:
I've picked up some good tools at flea markets and yard sales at very decent prices. Annually in early August, there is a "Highway 127" Yard Sale, 690 miles long and the route travels through 6 states; Michigan, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Georgia, and Alabama. There are always vendors set-up here and there selling old tools and new! (Nope, no warranties) And, always loads of junk tools to be found. (No, I don't drive the entire yard sale, but we do know the good places in southern Kentucky and northern & central Tennessee.)

It may not seem as important as sockets and wrenches, but I would not consider working unless I have my telescoping magnet and mirror.

What they said...plus...

Hex ball tip long shaft
Triple square - full set - long AND stubby (just get them both)
Pass-through sockets (or metalnerd strut tool)
Torque wrench

Most importantly: internet, you tube, this forum, and LOTS of patience. Or beer.

This is great..thanks guys.......I think the power steering line replacement might be over my head for now, but I'll never spend $110 for another oil change....Jeff

I'm a big fan of using an oil sucker on these cars to do the oil change from the top. Zero mess, zero hassle since the filter is a cartridge and is on top -- it's both easier and faster. I have said sucker for marine use, but it works perfectly well on the 'Dub as well.

Buy one once, own it forever; I have used Rotella T6 in mine since the factory fill came out and the oil pan bolt has never been out of the car. It "just works" doing it this way.

Now granted you don't get to inspect the bottom of the engine and drivetrain this way, which you DO if you take the belly pan off and do it from the bottom, so.... yeah.

I found this helpful...gives a fellow an idea of what to be on the look out for during sales.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2vbdqTRF6A&t=278s

Bought one of these scan tools too...some videos on youtube on using it. It does not have all the capability of VCDS or VAG COM...but it's not the same price either. Call it handy, it will allow you to check DTC's, reset the CEL, and do some adaptations on the car.

https://www.amazon.ca/Xtool-Vag401-...e=UTF8&qid=1520903693&sr=8-1&keywords=vag+401

For tools, I generally buy "cheapest of the best"...in Canada that means MasterCraft from Cambodian tire with some fill in from Princess Auto (Canadian version of Harbor Freight). If it has a lifetime warranty...that's good enough for me.

Larger price specialty tools that will only be used rarely can usually be "rented"...NAPA and Canadian Tire have such programs up here...put a deposit on the tool, use it, bring it back intact...and get ALL your money back.

An example of such tools is the break caliper reset tool needed for the rear calipers. Hard deal to beat for occasional use.

Al

I find that having a cable operated spring clamp tool is a real joy when needed:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-cabl...ellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1#

Also, line clamps for use when disconnecting a line that has fluid in it:

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/hoses-lines/3-piece-line-clamp-set-97578.html

I also have found that having a Pella 6000

(https://www.idparts.com/pela-6000-oil-extractor-pr-2817.html)

is helpful not only for doing top side oil changes but when coupled with the tubing from this kit:

(https://www.idparts.com/brake-bleeder-wrench-bottle-kit-p-6243.html)

makes a handy dandy vacuum brake bleeder kit. Just used the Pella and this tubing on my '91 trooper to vacuum flush the lines and it worked superbly.

Or, just use the VW pressure bleeder kit found here:

https://www.idparts.com/motive-black-label-power-bleeder-for-vw-and-most-european-p-3272.html

when doing your every two year flushes on your VW.

Also, this is handy when doing oil changes:

https://www.idparts.com/oil-filter-wrench-74mm-p-3261.html

I like using a small rechargeable impact driver like this one to do screw/nut removal where appropriate:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-...less-Impact-Driver-Tool-Only-DT01ZW/205492051

And...when you can afford it, this makes working underside a much better experience!

https://www.maxjaxusa.com/

Have fun!

Pick up these tools as you need them...

VCDS from ross-tech.com the premier diagnostic tool for your car.