Engine Coolant Bleeding

Hasenwerk · Apr 7, 2017

Gonna post on this again. After finding the loose clamp and thinking all was good, it started to build up pressure in the coolant system again, worse and worse over the winter. Got the coolant tested and sure enough, exhaust in the coolant - well s#!t

So... off came the cylinder head again - all checked out straight and perfect. The shop here in town tossed up the idea that perhaps I am making too much boost for the head gasket / stretch bolts to hold. Hence the reason why when I first did the conversion all was good and it slowly got bad. I replaced the head gaseket and it slowly got bad again. I installed a three hole gasket and paid the cash for some ARP head studs. Vacuum filled the cooling system and away I went.

One week later, no abnormal pressure in the cooling system and no over heating or coolant loss. So far, so good. But that's what I said the last few times. Head studs - if this is the solution - I would say anyone running a tune that requires a 3 bar MAP should seriously considered studs!

jimbote · Apr 8, 2017

i started running studs a few years ago but never had any prior coolant issues... did it as a precaution before upgrading to a bv43 so who knows... fingers crossed on your fix

hughesjasonk · Apr 8, 2017

Hasenwerk said:
Gonna post on this again. After finding the loose clamp and thinking all was good, it started to build up pressure in the coolant system again, worse and worse over the winter. Got the coolant tested and sure enough, exhaust in the coolant - well s#!t

So... off came the cylinder head again - all checked out straight and perfect. The shop here in town tossed up the idea that perhaps I am making too much boost for the head gasket / stretch bolts to hold. Hence the reason why when I first did the conversion all was good and it slowly got bad. I replaced the head gaseket and it slowly got bad again. I installed a three hole gasket and paid the cash for some ARP head studs. Vacuum filled the cooling system and away I went.

One week later, no abnormal pressure in the cooling system and no over heating or coolant loss. So far, so good. But that's what I said the last few times. Head studs - if this is the solution - I would say anyone running a tune that requires a 3 bar MAP should seriously considered studs!

So I had similar issues not to long ago. A really crusty shade tree reminded me to bake the head bolts prior to installation. 110F for 30min. Especially when it's cold outside. I guess the bolts are "shorter" during installation cold and when the engine warms up they like to expand a little bit. In my case (because I installed them in 10F garage) one of the bolts started backing out and that is where I was having my problem.

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Hasenwerk · Apr 9, 2017

hughesjasonk said:
So I had similar issues not to long ago. A really crusty shade tree reminded me to bake the head bolts prior to installation. 110F for 30min. Especially when it's cold outside. I guess the bolts are "shorter" during installation cold and when the engine warms up they like to expand a little bit. In my case (because I installed them in 10F garage) one of the bolts started backing out and that is where I was having my problem.

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Interesting concept there - can't really see it being all that different between say 10C ambient and 50C after baking.

vtpsd · Apr 13, 2017

I usually re-check them after getting the engine up to temp, and snug them back down. Wouldnt that do the same thing?

greengeeker · Apr 13, 2017

For head studs that would work (with a straight torque) but for TTY head bolts how does one "snug them back down"?

vtpsd · Apr 13, 2017

greengeeker said:
For head studs that would work (with a straight torque) but for TTY head bolts how does one "snug them back down"?

I assumed we were talking about baking the studs, I was referring to cars that I have converted to studs. I dont touch TTY bolts after installation. A second look at the post reveals he is talking about bolts.

oilcan_boyd · Apr 17, 2017

I'm glad I found this thread. I had trouble getting all of the air out of my Wrangler swap. I finally got it all out. Then I started towing and the temperatures were all over the place. I noticed one day the overflow bottle was fuller than it should be. I drained it back into the radiator and after a frisky test drive it was back up to the top again.
I'm afraid I have a head gasket issue after reading this thread. Studs and gasket are on order.

Hasenwerk · Apr 24, 2017

Had a mini-vacation in Vancouver and I took the Ranger. Kept an eye on the temp the whole way down and back (Android Radio with Torque app) and the temperatures were 93/94 on the road during normal driving and would go up to 96/97 going up long hills and driving hard. No pressure build up at all in the bottle and the coolant level didn't change. So... I really think that 1749VB and anything more than 25 PSI boost means that you should use head studs and not the stretch bolts.

Average cruising speed was 115km/h and I turned in 7.5L per 100km!

Motohead1 · Apr 24, 2017

Good to know you have it figured out. I will have to add studs next time I have it apart.

I wonder if I have clearance to get the head on with studs installed as my cowl sits fairly close to the head. Will studs drop though the head? Some head stud applications are so close that the block side threads wont drop through the head from the top.

Hasenwerk · Apr 25, 2017

You don't need to install the studs first before putting the head in place. Put the head on like you were going to use stretch bolts, insert and torque the studs and then install the nuts and torque to spec.

Motohead1 · Apr 25, 2017

Hasenwerk said:
You don't need to install the studs first before putting the head in place. Put the head on like you were going to use stretch bolts, insert and torque the studs and then install the nuts and torque to spec.

Cool that will save some time. Thanks for the info.

Motohead1 · May 9, 2017

David Im gonna high jack your thread to ask if my coolant temp movement looks normal. This is a drive home in kinda rush hour. I did a search and some say once they reach temp its rock steady. But I cant tell if there talking about the gauge or the ECU reading. I ordered head studs as seeing that you were having head lift issues I would like to avoid.
http://malonetuning.com/graph/view?log=201

Hasenwerk · May 11, 2017

Motohead1 said:
David Im gonna high jack your thread to ask if my coolant temp movement looks normal. This is a drive home in kinda rush hour. I did a search and some say once they reach temp its rock steady. But I cant tell if there talking about the gauge or the ECU reading. I ordered head studs as seeing that you were having head lift issues I would like to avoid.
http://malonetuning.com/graph/view?log=201

Since my 2nd head-gasket replacement using ARP studs, I've done about 3000km so far with NO issues. My 100km/h highway temp is 93 to 94C on the flats, if I push it really hard I will see 96 to 98. My son with his MK2 ALH sees the same thing and your graph looks the same to - I would say all is good.

Motohead1 · May 11, 2017

Thanks for the feedback. Ill be putting studs in soon.

Engine Coolant Bleeding

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jimbote

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