jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
I have an extra DB line and block fitting....do you want a mani also?
'84 Toyota Truck 1Z TDI Swap
- Thread starter cumminsfromthecold
- Start date
cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
PM sent, thanks jimbote!
ninedee_golf_tdi
Vendor
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
hansdieselparts.com aka vwdieselparts.com...aka peter rothenbacher...rothenbacher "engineering" .... from the hansdieselparts website front page ..... and Aftermarket Parts made in USA, Germany, France, Hungary, Brazil, Spain, China and Taiwan.
cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
Chinese crap
You guys are on it. I erred in my earlier post. En route from Rothenbacher/Hansdiesel/emiata is a German-made coolant flange that comes off the head at what will be my firewall - I have the original with coolant glowplugs that I can mod jimbote-downpipe-style if need be. The Chinese parts from them are likely the 2 GT15 turbo gaskets and an intake manifold gasket. That is it. Crankshaft rear main seal is from discountvdubparts.com and is Victor-Reinz.
I may be wrong, but those two gasket sets should work fine for long enough.
The boraparts Oldpoopie kit, Rosstech's software and factory repair manual (hey, I should have gotten this awhile ago, who knew?), Viton fuel lines and IP seals and rings, down to my shop rags are German or made in the US (huh, I guess we are still making things - good for us
)
I love wiring!
You guys are on it. I erred in my earlier post. En route from Rothenbacher/Hansdiesel/emiata is a German-made coolant flange that comes off the head at what will be my firewall - I have the original with coolant glowplugs that I can mod jimbote-downpipe-style if need be. The Chinese parts from them are likely the 2 GT15 turbo gaskets and an intake manifold gasket. That is it. Crankshaft rear main seal is from discountvdubparts.com and is Victor-Reinz.
I may be wrong, but those two gasket sets should work fine for long enough.
The boraparts Oldpoopie kit, Rosstech's software and factory repair manual (hey, I should have gotten this awhile ago, who knew?), Viton fuel lines and IP seals and rings, down to my shop rags are German or made in the US (huh, I guess we are still making things - good for us
)I love wiring!
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cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
TDI Coolant Flow Thread by Turbo.Steve
It's thought that this is for an automatic ALH...
TDI Cooling System Schematic
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=44068
Differences between it and a 1Z? They look pretty similar, except for the coolant flange location off the back of the head...
It's thought that this is for an automatic ALH...
TDI Cooling System Schematic
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=44068
Differences between it and a 1Z? They look pretty similar, except for the coolant flange location off the back of the head...
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jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
lmao...yeah we are tuff on ya'You guys are on it. I erred in my earlier post. En route from Rothenbacher/Hansdiesel/emiata is a German-made coolant flange that comes off the head at what will be my firewall - I have the original with coolant glowplugs that I can mod jimbote-downpipe-style if need be. The Chinese parts from them are likely the 2 GT15 turbo gaskets and an intake manifold gasket. That is it. Crankshaft rear main seal is from discountvdubparts.com and is Victor-Reinz.
I may be wrong, but those two gasket sets should work fine for long enough.
The boraparts Oldpoopie kit, Rosstech's software and factory repair manual (hey, I should have gotten this awhile ago, who knew?), Viton fuel lines and IP seals and rings, down to my shop rags are German or made in the US (huh, I guess we are still making things - good for us
I love wiring!
..... sheesh I wonder how many friggin TDI's that crook has had a hand in destroying
cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
Testing the 1.4kW stock starter
Ready to test the 1.4kW starter that was on the '84 22R engine.
Here's what I'm thinking. Feedback appreciated.
1. Connect intake and output of injector pump via one line, ensuring there's fuel in there so nothing's damaged.
2. Stabilize everything (engine trans starter)
3. With battery charger set on 12V / 2A or 12V / 6A, put the positive cable to the main/large starter tab, the smaller also positive wire to the starter solenoid connection, and the black charger ground wire to, uh, ground.
4. Go! And listen for the synchronicity that ensues, allowing me to use this old but still nicely functional 1.4kW starter
Never tested/fit a starter this way, so it's a bit concerning.
I have no electrical connected whatsoever on the engine or transmission.
Ready to test the 1.4kW starter that was on the '84 22R engine.
Here's what I'm thinking. Feedback appreciated.
1. Connect intake and output of injector pump via one line, ensuring there's fuel in there so nothing's damaged.
2. Stabilize everything (engine trans starter)
3. With battery charger set on 12V / 2A or 12V / 6A, put the positive cable to the main/large starter tab, the smaller also positive wire to the starter solenoid connection, and the black charger ground wire to, uh, ground.
4. Go! And listen for the synchronicity that ensues, allowing me to use this old but still nicely functional 1.4kW starter
Never tested/fit a starter this way, so it's a bit concerning.
I have no electrical connected whatsoever on the engine or transmission.
410onefour
Veteran Member
That charger won't be enough to turn the starter over. The starter is going to draw at least 100 amps, especially when first powered up. All you need is a battery instead of the battery charger with a set of booster cables. Good luck!
cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
Engine dry fit
With the help of a friend/VW Ace, the motor and trans are connected to the transfer case and sitting in place waiting for the 325i/E30 mounts to be fabricated into place. Whew! Not easy, plus I made classic newbie mistakes along the way...
Some lessons learned - ditch the load leveler on the engine hoist. It will likely interfere with lowering/angling in the motor/trans combo because the load leveler will hit the firewall. We had to pull the hole thing out, remover the leveler, and chain the 1Z such that there was no firewall interference.
Another lesson - grind off the original motor mounts before you try dry fitting the engine. Otherwise you will have a very awkward time of grinding them off, plus you'll have to take a bunch of steps to ensure that everything on the engine and open transfer case is covered/sealed to prevent metal bits from getting everywhere.
Have a good tall transmission jack handy, especially on a truck with a lift where everything is pretty high off the ground. (Or use a lift like a professional, which I am not.)
Keep everything loose as you connect it. If your bolts start to feel like they're torqued to tight, but they're only 1/3 of the way in, stop, start over: take your time. Wiggle lots.
With that third time, the trans/transfer case mated! It was sexy, too, in that weird way.
Sitting there on the crossmember mount by itself, the transfer case sagged back and to the passenger's side. This required a few acrobatics to get it vertical again and aligned like it was with the transmission and engine now being pulled back by the natural position at which the t-case wants to recline. My alignment reference points were the t-case drain plug and the hole in the brush guard that it sits perfectly over, and of course the alignment of the 5spd and 4by gear shifts.
I may spring for the $75 Marlin Crawler HD crossmember mount
"...fits all 79-95 Gear drive transfer cases and 82-95 4 cylinder cross members." It's good to know that compatibility. I may find the cheapest quality new one I can for reasons expressed earlier in this thread. OEM crossmember mounts are around $110. This also seems like a good idea in light of the third engine mount that seems so often needed in this Toyota swap. My friend also recommended a front mounted engine torque mount. There's plenty of space for it up front.
With the new crossmember mount, the twisting of the transmission and engine back toward the driver's side that we had to keep doing is reduced, and the 27 year old, surely-worn crossmember mount is relieved.
Good news: no oil filter/cooler adapter needed - plenty of clearance on this old rig with the solid axle with the existing arrangement.
There will be just barely enough space between the firewall for the oil pressure sensor and coolant flange coming out of what is now the back of the head.
The engine sits lower than most other pics I've seen of Toyota TDI conversions, so I am still dialing in that position and keeping the t-case's needed position in sight. Other's engine pics showing clearances would be informative.
Bad news - alternator / steering box conflict. It isn't bad, but it's enough to make me wonder about the consequences of aligning everything an inch - that's all I need - toward the passenger's side, giving me all the clearance I need, and not significantly misaligning anything. I will keep working on this, and I wonder about others' experiences with this component conflict and what moving things an inch to the right will do.
Oldpoopie timing belt kit from Aaron at Boraparts is here with all quality German parts - water pump with metal impeller and all the other goods, turbo gaskets, IM gasket, the wrong coolant flange out the back of the head ($3 mistake, oh well), new harmonic balancer and bolts, and a beautiful new 2.0kW clockable starter from ACME. Pics later. Work now.
With the help of a friend/VW Ace, the motor and trans are connected to the transfer case and sitting in place waiting for the 325i/E30 mounts to be fabricated into place. Whew! Not easy, plus I made classic newbie mistakes along the way...
Some lessons learned - ditch the load leveler on the engine hoist. It will likely interfere with lowering/angling in the motor/trans combo because the load leveler will hit the firewall. We had to pull the hole thing out, remover the leveler, and chain the 1Z such that there was no firewall interference.
Another lesson - grind off the original motor mounts before you try dry fitting the engine.
Otherwise you will have a very awkward time of grinding them off, plus you'll have to take a bunch of steps to ensure that everything on the engine and open transfer case is covered/sealed to prevent metal bits from getting everywhere.Have a good tall transmission jack handy, especially on a truck with a lift where everything is pretty high off the ground. (Or use a lift like a professional, which I am not.
) Keep everything loose as you connect it. If your bolts start to feel like they're torqued to tight, but they're only 1/3 of the way in, stop, start over: take your time. Wiggle lots.
With that third time, the trans/transfer case mated! It was sexy, too, in that weird way
. Sitting there on the crossmember mount by itself, the transfer case sagged back and to the passenger's side. This required a few acrobatics to get it vertical again and aligned like it was with the transmission and engine now being pulled back by the natural position at which the t-case wants to recline. My alignment reference points were the t-case drain plug and the hole in the brush guard that it sits perfectly over, and of course the alignment of the 5spd and 4by gear shifts.
I may spring for the $75 Marlin Crawler HD crossmember mount
"...fits all 79-95 Gear drive transfer cases and 82-95 4 cylinder cross members." It's good to know that compatibility. I may find the cheapest quality new one I can for reasons expressed earlier in this thread. OEM crossmember mounts are around $110. This also seems like a good idea in light of the third engine mount that seems so often needed in this Toyota swap. My friend also recommended a front mounted engine torque mount. There's plenty of space for it up front.
With the new crossmember mount, the twisting of the transmission and engine back toward the driver's side that we had to keep doing is reduced, and the 27 year old, surely-worn crossmember mount is relieved.
Good news: no oil filter/cooler adapter needed - plenty of clearance on this old rig with the solid axle with the existing arrangement.
There will be just barely enough space between the firewall for the oil pressure sensor and coolant flange coming out of what is now the back of the head.
The engine sits lower than most other pics I've seen of Toyota TDI conversions, so I am still dialing in that position and keeping the t-case's needed position in sight. Other's engine pics showing clearances would be informative.
Bad news - alternator / steering box conflict. It isn't bad, but it's enough to make me wonder about the consequences of aligning everything an inch - that's all I need - toward the passenger's side, giving me all the clearance I need, and not significantly misaligning anything. I will keep working on this, and I wonder about others' experiences with this component conflict and what moving things an inch to the right will do.
Oldpoopie timing belt kit from Aaron at Boraparts is here with all quality German parts - water pump with metal impeller and all the other goods, turbo gaskets, IM gasket, the wrong coolant flange out the back of the head ($3 mistake, oh well), new harmonic balancer and bolts, and a beautiful new 2.0kW clockable starter from ACME. Pics later. Work now.
Great work!
Some thoughts and questions...
From post #57, it looks like your TDC mark is on the top of the flywheel. This will be difficult/impossible to line up when it is in the truck. I would HIGHLY recommend putting a mark on the bottom, so it can be viewed from a hole in the bellhousing. You'll need it sooner than you think.
Especially where you are, a 1.4kw starter is on the whimpy side. I'm really glad I had the 2kw starter when I was cranking the truck over in Idaho at -10F.
My sensors are on the driver side. The only thing coming out of the back is a coolant line that goes to the heater.
Regarding the alternator conflict. If you can, try to rotate the engine closer to the 20 degrees from vertical that VW uses. I know this can cause some shift lever issues, but here are the benefits:
1) The engine is designed to operate at that angle. Oil levels, breathers, turbo oil drain, etc are all designed for that angle. With my engine closer to vertical, the result is a very picky oil level: Too much ("full" on dipstick) and there are problems with oil being ejected out the breather. Too little (bottom mark on dipstick) and I can see losses in oil pressure. The "perfect" oil level is about 1/3 between full and empty, and there isn't much tolerance around it.
2) Better clearance around the alternator
3) Better hood clearance
- E*clipse
Some thoughts and questions...
From post #57, it looks like your TDC mark is on the top of the flywheel. This will be difficult/impossible to line up when it is in the truck. I would HIGHLY recommend putting a mark on the bottom, so it can be viewed from a hole in the bellhousing. You'll need it sooner than you think.
Especially where you are, a 1.4kw starter is on the whimpy side. I'm really glad I had the 2kw starter when I was cranking the truck over in Idaho at -10F.
My sensors are on the driver side. The only thing coming out of the back is a coolant line that goes to the heater.Regarding the alternator conflict. If you can, try to rotate the engine closer to the 20 degrees from vertical that VW uses. I know this can cause some shift lever issues, but here are the benefits:
1) The engine is designed to operate at that angle. Oil levels, breathers, turbo oil drain, etc are all designed for that angle. With my engine closer to vertical, the result is a very picky oil level: Too much ("full" on dipstick) and there are problems with oil being ejected out the breather. Too little (bottom mark on dipstick) and I can see losses in oil pressure. The "perfect" oil level is about 1/3 between full and empty, and there isn't much tolerance around it.
2) Better clearance around the alternator
3) Better hood clearance
- E*clipse
cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
e*clipse,
Thanks for the suggestions. The 1.0kW starter will disappear for the beautiful starter I have now from ACME.
I made a TDC mark that will be easily accessible from underneath the driver's side.
I have the oil pressure sensor above the coolant hose flange coming out of the back of the head:
Does this distinguish the 1Z from the AHU somehow?
I wonder if I can put the EGT/pyrometer in the EGR cooler block off plate (far right in this pic, above)... I seem to recall someone else doing this. (Edit: nope - put it just behind the turbo, on the downpipe - simple hole and hose clamp setup.)
Maintaining the 1Z's 20 degree angle is a good idea - I will do that, and it will almost surely eliminate the alternator steering gear conflict. I already feel like I am second guessing VW engineers enough... (Edit: didn't maintain ~ 20 degrees. Maybe got 10 degrees angle...)
Here's the engine and transmission in and connected to the t-case:
Lots of room in front!
Here's the shot of the alternator at the steering gear:
It should work fine with maintenance of the 20 degree stock angle.
Very happy that the original oil filter housing and oil cooler didn't need to be replaced with the AEB engine's rear angled version. (Edit: I used the AEB's angled oil assembly after all - works/fits perfectly.) No clutch cable clearance issues because the clutch runs over the engine/transmission bellhousing and drops down on the passenger's side, conflicting with nothing.
I'll take some pics of frame rail to illustrate the beautiful simplicity of and minimal conflicts involved with the solid axle.
Fuel tank had a crusty old gasket I replaced with a bioDiesel-ready Viton one from McMaster-Carr:
The gasket paper from Napa, which I pretty much bought to confirm my suspicions, fails when exposed to bioDiesel. The plastic backing came completely off, smeared, and the paper part was smooshy and separable. NOT bioDiesel compatible:
Bad pic, but just another case in point - when something says it's compatible with "all fuels," it's almost surely NOT bioDiesel compatible. Viton, Viton, Viton.
Transmission cover plate:
Fuel lines and clutch line:
Another question - did anyone use an inline fuel pump?
Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the suggestions. The 1.0kW starter will disappear for the beautiful starter I have now from ACME.
I made a TDC mark that will be easily accessible from underneath the driver's side.
I have the oil pressure sensor above the coolant hose flange coming out of the back of the head:
Does this distinguish the 1Z from the AHU somehow?
I wonder if I can put the EGT/pyrometer in the EGR cooler block off plate (far right in this pic, above)... I seem to recall someone else doing this. (Edit: nope - put it just behind the turbo, on the downpipe - simple hole and hose clamp setup.)
Maintaining the 1Z's 20 degree angle is a good idea - I will do that, and it will almost surely eliminate the alternator steering gear conflict. I already feel like I am second guessing VW engineers enough... (Edit: didn't maintain ~ 20 degrees. Maybe got 10 degrees angle...)
Here's the engine and transmission in and connected to the t-case:
Lots of room in front!
Here's the shot of the alternator at the steering gear:
It should work fine with maintenance of the 20 degree stock angle.
Very happy that the original oil filter housing and oil cooler didn't need to be replaced with the AEB engine's rear angled version. (Edit: I used the AEB's angled oil assembly after all - works/fits perfectly.) No clutch cable clearance issues because the clutch runs over the engine/transmission bellhousing and drops down on the passenger's side, conflicting with nothing.
I'll take some pics of frame rail to illustrate the beautiful simplicity of and minimal conflicts involved with the solid axle.
Fuel tank had a crusty old gasket I replaced with a bioDiesel-ready Viton one from McMaster-Carr:
The gasket paper from Napa, which I pretty much bought to confirm my suspicions, fails when exposed to bioDiesel. The plastic backing came completely off, smeared, and the paper part was smooshy and separable. NOT bioDiesel compatible:
Bad pic, but just another case in point - when something says it's compatible with "all fuels," it's almost surely NOT bioDiesel compatible. Viton, Viton, Viton.
Transmission cover plate:
Fuel lines and clutch line:
Another question - did anyone use an inline fuel pump?
Thanks for the help!
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410onefour
Veteran Member
Yes I used an inline fuel pump. I also rerouted my fuel lines to the drivers side and I rerouted the clutch line to run under the motor to give me more room for the exhaust. Looks awesome! What a nice truck to start such a project with!
Hmmm - That's interesting about the sensor. Mine is located on the oil filter housing. I also had the water heater glow plugs and an outlet for the heater there. (yours covered in tape). Anyway, the coolant line running to the heater will require some hose bends, etc. Do you have room for that? If so, the oil sensor should not be an issue.
Definitely re-route the fuel line to the driver's side. It does get tight there with the exhaust pipe.
It looks awfully tight against the firewall. Remember there's going to be plumbing and wiring back there. One of the biggest pains is connecting the big circular connector on the engine wiring harness.
- E*clipse
Definitely re-route the fuel line to the driver's side. It does get tight there with the exhaust pipe.
It looks awfully tight against the firewall. Remember there's going to be plumbing and wiring back there. One of the biggest pains is connecting the big circular connector on the engine wiring harness.
- E*clipse
cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
410onefour, yeah, I'm cleaning as I go, and that's added some time, but I take so much apart and put it back together again that it's worth it.
What inline fuel pump did you find meshes well with your mechanical pump?
E*clipse, there is just enough room, no more. The bend of the coolant flange I'll have to have fabbed will just fit, as will the oil sensor.
I played around with aligning things as differently as I could without stressing the crossmember mount, which I will replace asap. I could leave the engine sitting like it is:
and this engine/trans position leaves the gearshifts looking like this:
The 4x4 gearshift should be 180 deg of what it is (tired from moving so much snow)...
All gears still easily reachable, the boot fits, and so on...
It doesn't give me 20 degrees, unfortunately. Obtaining 20 degrees would at that point torque pretty heavily on the crossmember mount and my gearshifts would have to move into the passenger side floorboards. I've got 11-12 degrees of tilt, the alternator clears the steering gear, and gearshifts twist a little in their boots... I'm going to split all those differences and tomorrow, I'll have the mounts made for where the engine currently sits.
I'm first going to check the torque of the crossmember mount and make sure it's torqued to whatever it should be
Now for a genuine issue. Intake manifold hits the firewall:
Dang!
Double dang!
So, we'll see if it's inexpensive to cut that section out. Conveniently, there is nothing behind that part of the firewall for 3 inches, which is a half inch more than I need. Wambamhammer, perhaps...
Yep, routing the fuel line over everything is the plan. Perhaps a heat shield will allow me to to keep the clutch line where it is.
What inline fuel pump did you find meshes well with your mechanical pump?
E*clipse, there is just enough room, no more. The bend of the coolant flange I'll have to have fabbed will just fit, as will the oil sensor.
I played around with aligning things as differently as I could without stressing the crossmember mount, which I will replace asap. I could leave the engine sitting like it is:
and this engine/trans position leaves the gearshifts looking like this:
The 4x4 gearshift should be 180 deg of what it is (tired from moving so much snow)...
All gears still easily reachable, the boot fits, and so on...
It doesn't give me 20 degrees, unfortunately. Obtaining 20 degrees would at that point torque pretty heavily on the crossmember mount and my gearshifts would have to move into the passenger side floorboards. I've got 11-12 degrees of tilt, the alternator clears the steering gear, and gearshifts twist a little in their boots... I'm going to split all those differences and tomorrow, I'll have the mounts made for where the engine currently sits.
I'm first going to check the torque of the crossmember mount and make sure it's torqued to whatever it should be
Now for a genuine issue. Intake manifold hits the firewall:
Dang!
Double dang!
So, we'll see if it's inexpensive to cut that section out. Conveniently, there is nothing behind that part of the firewall for 3 inches, which is a half inch more than I need. Wambamhammer, perhaps...
Yep, routing the fuel line over everything is the plan. Perhaps a heat shield will allow me to to keep the clutch line where it is.
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jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
I used the stock intank fuel pump with this regulator....http://innovativediesel.com/i-1317224-holley-fuel-pressure-regulator-15955-nitrous-express.html ...wait was your fuel injected? if not just ignore....
Tranny position looks good - your tranny's rotated about 5 degrees? You might be able to bend the shift lever a bit. I'm not sure how the rear tranny mount will work with that.
I'm going to have to bend my shift lever back. Knuckles turn the radio on/off in 3rd gear.
This brings up the manifold clearance. (my engine's forward of yours) I think that bulge holds part of the AC system. When I took mine out, the heat exchanger was in that space. No harm in whamerhammering that, but it'll prolly hurt your chances of winning a concours d' elegance with your truck.
I'm going to have to bend my shift lever back. Knuckles turn the radio on/off in 3rd gear.
This brings up the manifold clearance. (my engine's forward of yours) I think that bulge holds part of the AC system. When I took mine out, the heat exchanger was in that space. No harm in whamerhammering that, but it'll prolly hurt your chances of winning a concours d' elegance with your truck.
cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
"No harm in whamerhammering that, but it'll prolly hurt your chances of winning a concours d' elegance with your truck"
Heh heh, you're right. Dang! Maybe I could win for oldest TDI Yota
I hope to be able to cut it out. We'll see. Ready for the motor mounts to be in! Poulin Fabrication (Tom) is the man.
Also ready to read the Bentley manual and VAGCOM, which should arrive today! Being unused to having/using the right tools for the job, I'll be reading and removing the 19 inches that fell overnight.
New stand gasket/oil cooler housing gasket coming from Aaron at Bora Parts ($7), and $13 o-ring ordered from Reno VW.
The intake manifold gasket I got from Hansdiesel looks worse than the used one from the engine's original intake manifold, and it looks worse than the gasket that was on this bigger IM from the junkyard! Metal shavings coming off n ****, jeesh.
Heh heh, you're right. Dang! Maybe I could win for oldest TDI Yota
I hope to be able to cut it out. We'll see. Ready for the motor mounts to be in! Poulin Fabrication (Tom) is the man.
Also ready to read the Bentley manual and VAGCOM, which should arrive today! Being unused to having/using the right tools for the job, I'll be reading and removing the 19 inches that fell overnight.
New stand gasket/oil cooler housing gasket coming from Aaron at Bora Parts ($7), and $13 o-ring ordered from Reno VW.
The intake manifold gasket I got from Hansdiesel looks worse than the used one from the engine's original intake manifold, and it looks worse than the gasket that was on this bigger IM from the junkyard! Metal shavings coming off n ****, jeesh.
Wow! 19" woo! woo!
We've had over a foot of RAIN here (measured in a jar outside). A true monsoon!
To top that off, a 75' oak tree just fell, missing our pump shed by inches.
Well, good day to curl up w/ a book....
We've had over a foot of RAIN here (measured in a jar outside). A true monsoon!
To top that off, a 75' oak tree just fell, missing our pump shed by inches.
Well, good day to curl up w/ a book....
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
dang...I love caliWow! 19" woo! woo!
We've had over a foot of RAIN here (measured in a jar outside). A true monsoon!
To top that off, a 75' oak tree just fell, missing our pump shed by inches.
Well, good day to curl up w/ a book....
....I'll be swingin' your way in the yota sometime this summer/fall ...we'll have to meet up !!imtryin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2010
- Location
- portland, OR
- TDI
- smashed up 98 jetta tdi soon to go into a toyota pickup
at this rate in a couple of years there will have to be a tdi-yota fest. which would be fun wouldn't it!!
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
I was thinkin' the same thing yesterday!!at this rate in a couple of years there will have to be a tdi-yota fest. which would be fun wouldn't it!!
cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
Ha ha ha, jimbote, imtryin, couple of years seems right on, some days... Yota TDI gathering definitely in order.at this rate in a couple of years there will have to be a tdi-yota fest. which would be fun wouldn't it!!
Snow's officially at third highest ever recorded here, and man, that has been taking the momentum outta the project. Welder can't get up here, snow can no longer be thrown up and onto walls, parts (e.g. intecooler) delayed in getting here, etc... At least I have more time to finish - gotta have her done by the time work resumes. This pic is 5 days old, so add over 2 feet.
Fuel lines - I have to move the fuel lines. I need some 20' of high temp, 6mm ID x 12 mm OD x 3ml wall, Viton hose. May be able to save the hard lines - we'll see. Stock VW fuel filter will go on the firewall between the brake booster and the ebrake cable, and may mount right where the accelerator cable mount used to be (bolt holes match and everything).
Coolant system - this will just be trial and error. I need to figure out the forked heater switch on the Yota (with which I am simply unfamiliar) and try out a bunch of hoses.
Gauges - EGT gauge going into block off plate on exhaust manifold that was for EGR cooler. Boost gauge going in, and still weighing the way to get coolant temps, oil temps, and oil pressure readings. Would like to just spring for all mechanical gauges, but I wonder if that would conflict with CELs I'll want to know about. The Auber instruments combi gauge Luke used looks better and better.
CFM 's and Luke's posts below (#83 and 84) about the two oil pressure sensors operating above and below 2000 rpm make me wonder if this is really doable on my particular rig:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=292227&page=6
Would really like a tach, and I have been re-reading e*clipse's thread on the tach. Since I had a 4cyl 22R, I might be in luck. The truck had/has no tach, so I might go for the Dakota Digital reader. Lots to learn still on this front...
Lights - LED glow plug light and CEL planned, a la Luke Wilson's method.
Need an inline fuel pump that will work with the IP. Wonder about the harm in trying to run it without the inline pump first, adding it later (when cash flow isn't so frozen...)
Reading, researching, reading....
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LukeWilson
Veteran Member
Holy F**K, that is some serious snow!
I think the simplest solution to the oil light is to find a Volvo sensor like CFM suggested, that is what i would do if i did it over again. It will be plug and play with the stock Toyota wiring then.
Not sure if you you could get an SR5 model of your truck but you could just swap clusters and have it look factory. I plan on doing this when i track down the right cluster, e*clipse and jimbote tipped me off on this one.
Just a head's up, i get a code about a ground fault for my CEL and glow plug lights. They work perfectly and are wired the same as stock best i can tell, it might have something to do with the LED's i used.
There is no need for a fuel pump if you don't want to run one, I don't have one and it works fine. Priming can be a pain in the butt, so save your self the trouble and get a mityvac if you don't already have one. Also depending on the pressure coming from the in-tank pump, you may be able to use the stock Yota pump as-is or with a pressure regulator. I think I read the IP's like 3-4 psi.
Getting there!
I think the simplest solution to the oil light is to find a Volvo sensor like CFM suggested, that is what i would do if i did it over again. It will be plug and play with the stock Toyota wiring then.
Not sure if you you could get an SR5 model of your truck but you could just swap clusters and have it look factory. I plan on doing this when i track down the right cluster, e*clipse and jimbote tipped me off on this one.
Just a head's up, i get a code about a ground fault for my CEL and glow plug lights. They work perfectly and are wired the same as stock best i can tell, it might have something to do with the LED's i used.
There is no need for a fuel pump if you don't want to run one, I don't have one and it works fine. Priming can be a pain in the butt, so save your self the trouble and get a mityvac if you don't already have one. Also depending on the pressure coming from the in-tank pump, you may be able to use the stock Yota pump as-is or with a pressure regulator. I think I read the IP's like 3-4 psi.
Getting there!
jimbote
Certified Volkswagen Nut
ditto on Luke's assessment of snow accumulation!!...Jeebus that's alot of white stuff...I'd be going Donner by now !!! ...we had about four snows around here (nothin' like that) and I was so friggen over it and so glad spring is finally here....I bet you'll be glad when you dig/melt your way out of that one....your ecm has a tach output...if you can find a factory 4cyl SR5 cluster (i'm pretty sure there was one available for your year) ...you can just use the tach output from your ecm to drive the tach directly....no expensive converter box needed....
cumminsfromthecold
Veteran Member
Driver's side motor mount, fuel line rearranging
Luke Wilson wrote
"I think the simplest solution to the oil light is to find a Volvo sensor like CFM suggested, that is what i would do if i did it over again. It will be plug and play with the stock Toyota wiring then."
That's the plan as of right now - the voice of experience wins.
"Not sure if you you could get an SR5 model of your truck but you could just swap clusters and have it look factory. I plan on doing this when i track down the right cluster, e*clipse and jimbote tipped me off on this one."
Yep, apparently that will work out nicely! jimbote echoed that...
"Just a head's up, i get a code about a ground fault for my CEL and glow plug lights. They work perfectly and are wired the same as stock best i can tell, it might have something to do with the LED's i used."
A milliamp's difference can trip that fault code, right?
"There is no need for a fuel pump if you don't want to run one, I don't have one and it works fine. Priming can be a pain in the butt, so save your self the trouble and get a mityvac if you don't already have one. Also depending on the pressure coming from the in-tank pump, you may be able to use the stock Yota pump as-is or with a pressure regulator. I think I read the IP's like 3-4 psi. "
Ok, ok, I will break down and get a mity vac. Should have had one for years now, anyway...
e*clipse and Luke, and imtryin, thanks for the motor mount info here.
I dove in and moved 2 of the 3 hard fuel lines (what will become the return and breather lines, respectively) to the driver's side, bending them ever so carefully so as not to crimp anything. I ran them over the rear driveshaft flange at the t-case and just used old stock clamps on available holes. Lines are just the right length, even reworked. The delivery line that runs from the tank to the fuel filter inlet remains on the passenger's side frame rail. My thinking is that it's good to have some heat on the fuel line, especially as I run some blend of biodiesel B20 to B99.9 throughout the year and heat near that doesn't hurt, especially with high heat resistant Viton. I may leave that delivery line where it is and build a heat shield if needed.
I then wonder about mounting the fuel filter close to the IP on the driver's side (at the stock "Toyoda" power steering pump), or, if the fuel filter would also be better off on the warmer passenger's side of the engine compartment below the windshield wiper motor.
I completely removed what little was left of the e-brake, freeing up space for the exhaust and for the vacuum pump line and heater hoses I have to work into that space. I will be using a hydraulic line-lock ebrake set-up like this:
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Jamar-Line-Lock-p-74.html
I manipulated the clutch line out of the way, too, and was even able to lock it into place with another clamp once holding something else.
So, for the driver's side motor mount, I see this:
3 holes! The third hole (uppermost hole) was occupied by a fastener holding the speed sensor wire. The oil filter will be just barely in the way, unless there's a way to fab the thing such that the oil filter clears by a mm or two.
Another view...
... from down below. Imagine the oil filter in there, and you can see it's a tight fit.
Another:
Not looking too great, clearance-wise.
Welder's here at 9am. I've got everything all ready for him, cleaned, out of the way, etc. We'll evaluate the wisdom in making a mount that will be so close to the stock oil filter set-up...
As if to remind me of my status amidst all this:
D'oh!
Thanks for your thoughts, guys.
Luke Wilson wrote
"I think the simplest solution to the oil light is to find a Volvo sensor like CFM suggested, that is what i would do if i did it over again. It will be plug and play with the stock Toyota wiring then."
That's the plan as of right now - the voice of experience wins.
"Not sure if you you could get an SR5 model of your truck but you could just swap clusters and have it look factory. I plan on doing this when i track down the right cluster, e*clipse and jimbote tipped me off on this one."
Yep, apparently that will work out nicely!
jimbote echoed that..."Just a head's up, i get a code about a ground fault for my CEL and glow plug lights. They work perfectly and are wired the same as stock best i can tell, it might have something to do with the LED's i used."
A milliamp's difference can trip that fault code, right?
"There is no need for a fuel pump if you don't want to run one, I don't have one and it works fine. Priming can be a pain in the butt, so save your self the trouble and get a mityvac if you don't already have one. Also depending on the pressure coming from the in-tank pump, you may be able to use the stock Yota pump as-is or with a pressure regulator. I think I read the IP's like 3-4 psi. "
Ok, ok, I will break down and get a mity vac. Should have had one for years now, anyway...
e*clipse and Luke, and imtryin, thanks for the motor mount info here.
I dove in and moved 2 of the 3 hard fuel lines (what will become the return and breather lines, respectively) to the driver's side, bending them ever so carefully so as not to crimp anything. I ran them over the rear driveshaft flange at the t-case and just used old stock clamps on available holes. Lines are just the right length, even reworked. The delivery line that runs from the tank to the fuel filter inlet remains on the passenger's side frame rail. My thinking is that it's good to have some heat on the fuel line, especially as I run some blend of biodiesel B20 to B99.9 throughout the year and heat near that doesn't hurt, especially with high heat resistant Viton. I may leave that delivery line where it is and build a heat shield if needed.
I then wonder about mounting the fuel filter close to the IP on the driver's side (at the stock "Toyoda" power steering pump), or, if the fuel filter would also be better off on the warmer passenger's side of the engine compartment below the windshield wiper motor.
I completely removed what little was left of the e-brake, freeing up space for the exhaust and for the vacuum pump line and heater hoses I have to work into that space. I will be using a hydraulic line-lock ebrake set-up like this:
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Jamar-Line-Lock-p-74.html
I manipulated the clutch line out of the way, too, and was even able to lock it into place with another clamp once holding something else.
So, for the driver's side motor mount, I see this:
3 holes! The third hole (uppermost hole) was occupied by a fastener holding the speed sensor wire. The oil filter will be just barely in the way, unless there's a way to fab the thing such that the oil filter clears by a mm or two.
Another view...
... from down below. Imagine the oil filter in there, and you can see it's a tight fit.
Another:
Not looking too great, clearance-wise.
Welder's here at 9am. I've got everything all ready for him, cleaned, out of the way, etc. We'll evaluate the wisdom in making a mount that will be so close to the stock oil filter set-up...
As if to remind me of my status amidst all this:
D'oh!
Thanks for your thoughts, guys.
Last edited:
Taking the instrument cluster swapping one step further:
You can swap instruments within clusters. I've done that for the speedometer, which came out of a '93 4-runner. (they went to electronic speedos that year) - the sender fits in the tranny, exactly like the mechanical one. It took a bit off modding (shaving plastic), but the wiring was compatible.
For oil pressure, the only thing I really use is a mechanical sensor with the port in the remote oil filter mount. I also have a gauge for oil temperature. These mechanical sensors are reliable and cheap. Why rely on idiot lights? In fact, the oil temperature sensor alerted me to a cooling system problem while the water temperature sensor was reading just fine. Problem? Frozen coolent.
E-brake: I HATE the stock yota e-brake. They get in the way of stuff and are a pain to use. I replaced mine with a floor mounted e-brake from a nissan pathfinder. You can also find floor mounted e-brakes on newer (93+??) yotas.
Motor mounts - yup that's the 3 you've got to work with. As you've seen it's really tight around the oil filter. That's why I'm doing the remote oil filter and the custom adapter.
You can swap instruments within clusters. I've done that for the speedometer, which came out of a '93 4-runner. (they went to electronic speedos that year) - the sender fits in the tranny, exactly like the mechanical one. It took a bit off modding (shaving plastic), but the wiring was compatible.
For oil pressure, the only thing I really use is a mechanical sensor with the port in the remote oil filter mount. I also have a gauge for oil temperature. These mechanical sensors are reliable and cheap. Why rely on idiot lights? In fact, the oil temperature sensor alerted me to a cooling system problem while the water temperature sensor was reading just fine. Problem? Frozen coolent.
E-brake: I HATE the stock yota e-brake. They get in the way of stuff and are a pain to use. I replaced mine with a floor mounted e-brake from a nissan pathfinder. You can also find floor mounted e-brakes on newer (93+??) yotas.
Motor mounts - yup that's the 3 you've got to work with. As you've seen it's really tight around the oil filter. That's why I'm doing the remote oil filter and the custom adapter.
LukeWilson
Veteran Member
I picked up a princess auto/harbour freight vac pump for $25, it hasn't failed me yet even though it looks like a pos.
Here is another e-brake alternative that might be a little safer:
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=142
Downside is it is another $200, but i have heard they are really nice units.
E*clipse:
Are you using a stock Toyota oil gauge or something aftermarket and what sensor are you using?
Luke
Here is another e-brake alternative that might be a little safer:
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new/detaproduct.php?id=142
Downside is it is another $200, but i have heard they are really nice units.
E*clipse:
Are you using a stock Toyota oil gauge or something aftermarket and what sensor are you using?
Luke
I read somewhere on the YotaTech forums that the stock oil gauge isn't trustworthy. If a gauge isn't trustworthy, you're better off guessing with nothing. Besides, like the water temp, it doesn't display actual pressure, just some relative range.
I'm using VDO gauges housed in the A-piller.
A great example of a non-trustworthy gauge is the stock "boost" gauge on an Eclipse. The computer somehow figures out what the boost is, based on a bunch of factors having nothing to do with air pressure. It would display "boost" even when the turbo's shaft was seized up due to coking.
My e-brake solution was pretty cheap. Something like $25 at the junk yard. 'Course you'll have to do some digging.....
BTW - That snow is awesome! When we were kids, we used to dig snow caves in our front yard.
I'm using VDO gauges housed in the A-piller.
A great example of a non-trustworthy gauge is the stock "boost" gauge on an Eclipse. The computer somehow figures out what the boost is, based on a bunch of factors having nothing to do with air pressure. It would display "boost" even when the turbo's shaft was seized up due to coking.
My e-brake solution was pretty cheap. Something like $25 at the junk yard. 'Course you'll have to do some digging.....
BTW - That snow is awesome! When we were kids, we used to dig snow caves in our front yard.
truthseeker
Member
trouble registering a diesel in former gas vehicle
I wanted to ask if anyone that did a swap from gas to diesel vehicle if you had any trouble registering and getting inspection sticker on your vehicles I have a 2000 dodge dakota that I have a 2002 sprinter 5cyl mercedes cdi engine tranny and almost all sprinter electrical I have not finished my project but am close
I wanted to ask if anyone that did a swap from gas to diesel vehicle if you had any trouble registering and getting inspection sticker on your vehicles I have a 2000 dodge dakota that I have a 2002 sprinter 5cyl mercedes cdi engine tranny and almost all sprinter electrical I have not finished my project but am close