Please check these boost logs - Was overboosting

I decided to run the boost logs on my 2003 Jetta TDI wagon. It was hitting about 85% on the duty cycle and hitting about 21 PSI before the N75 valve cut it down. I am not getting any overboost CELs or limp mode.

I was not able to remove the actuator arm from the turbo. (not enough room to side it off) I tried for over an hour to remove it and it will not come off. I was forced to loosen the locknut and use the adjusting thumb screw to adjust it in place.

These are two of the logs I did while I was adjusting it.

http://log.malonetuning.com/chart/2...Cj8OgYMOsIcOuJnXDi2zDjcKPUwgnwrc8w6Ynwo8AAAA=

http://log.malonetuning.com/chart/2...wwo/DoGDDrCHDriZ1w4tsw43Cj1MIJ8K3PMOmJ8KPAAAA

Here I have the actuator adjusted all the way out. Does it look ok? I was trying to keep the duty cycle at or below 60%.

http://log.malonetuning.com/chart/2...Pw6Bgw6whw64mdcOLbMONwo9TCCfCtzzDpifCjwAAAA==

Any tips on getting the actuator arm off the turbo? (The clip is removed)

Thanks!

I'm firmly a newb, but those boost graphs look almost stereotypical in reference to what is shown on Ross-Tech.com in terms of ideal boost patterns.

Graph pictured here:

Link http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/tdi.html

They are dipping way down after it hits the requested boost, which is not the same as the Ross Tech example.



The graphs I put up are in order. On each one I lengthened the rod a bit more until on the last one it is all the way extended.

I ordered a new actuator since they are cheap and I will see if that helps. (and if I can get the old one off)

Im in the same exact spot as you; MPG isnt the best and my car overboosts without any CEL or limp mode; Heres my graph with the actuator arm adjusted all the way maxed out on top (nut is flush on the tip of the rod)

May also buy a new actuator to try it out in hopes to fix my overboost; someone recommended to check MAP sensor to make sure its reading correctly

Do a long full throttle run, like 15 seconds and you will the boost overshoot by a bunch then undershoot by less, overshoot by less undershoot by less and eventfully you get down to an Analog to Digital wiggle about the target. VNT-15's are know to be twitchy and momentary 21 psi is probably ok.

The ECU is programmed to cut boost when boost is 300 millibar over requested for three seconds.A small amount of overboost for a couple of seconds isn't generally going to hurt anything. if you adjust your actuator arm to where there is no "spike" when the ECU may start causing an under boost situation. Statistically speaking 200 millibar for a couple of seconds is not going to destroy your turbo, and will generally get it to proper spool sooner.

Does your engine seem to have a lot of lag now that the actuator arm has been lengthened?
golfere, the PD motor and the ALH use different N75% reads. The ALH when reducing boost raises the N75% to 80% or 90%, whatever is needs to have to correct overboost. The PD motor on the other hand lowers the n75% to correct overboost. I am unable to read your graph so I am grasping at straws here...

The engine seems about the same. It is not over-boosting at all now, but it is still dipping quite a bit once it hits around 2100 rpm. I am able to see the graphs in Chrome. Maybe try Chrome?

My other TDI is not dipping nearly as much at 2100 rpm. It has a new actuator though.

I was wrong, I did see the graph but I could not get it large enough to make sense of it.

I did not see that his was an ALH; my bad just trying to offer advice