Maxamillian
New member
BRM Boggs off idle
Hey Guys, I'm new to this forum so please bear with me. I own a driveability shop and work on everything. This 2006 BRM Jetta has no power from a stop most of the time. If you floor it while acting up, the valves rattle and a ton of black smoke out the exhaust. Seems like a fairly common problem with these BRMs. I do all my scanning with a Snap-On MODIS. No codes. Replaced EGR Valve with a new VW test unit/result = no better - replaced Boost Pressure/Intake Air Temperature Sensor with new VW test unit because when I unplugged this the problem went away, granted I had no boost though/result = no better. Wow! How can this thing run this bad and not set any codes? It is capable of setting codes as it did when Boost Pressure Sensor was unplugged. There are no unusual noises from engine as I see guys talking about bad cam lobes. Engine starts great, as fast as you can hit the key, idles smooth. While it is acting up, if you lift throttle for just a second and re-stab throttle, it takes off like a bandit. Once you are rolling down the road it runs fine, has boost, etc. So this is an intermittent problem that occurs only off idle, pulling away from a stop. There is no noise from the turbo at all and can feel it boosting once you are rolling. The only thing out of the ordinary is an exhaust leak from the back of the engine by the EGR Cooler as evidenced by the soot all over which I guess is another common problem on these. I pulled a vacuum on the Turbo Vane Cotroller Rod and watched it move smoothly both ways. I ran Basic Settings test 011 and watched it activate the Vane Controller off-on-off-on, seems to work fine and as well, must have a nice vacuum source since this works very quickly when activated. I monitored the Vane Controller percentage as I applied vacuum up to 20 inch pounds and watched it climb from 0% to 102% and was able to watch it climb one # at a time with no drop outs. If I watch this same value while driving, it is at 102% while backing out of the garage and pulling away slowly. Then you go to pull out into traffic from a stop, forget about it! That's when the black smoke, valves rattling, no power problem manifests itself. If you just keep your foot in it, it will not accel hardly at all and the value still shows 102%. Lift throtlle and re-stab it quickly and the value drops to approx 70ish and power comes back. What I did next was to dis-connect the vacuum supply to the Vane Controller, and while there is not a whole lot of power, which is understandable now that the Vane Controller is "Off-Line", there is no more black smoke, valve rattling problem. I did look at Cam to Crank angle and could see it moving approx. half a point during blip throttle so I know that it is a live value and tracking. If I try and run EGR test 003, the engine will quit. I tried running it again while giving it some throttle and it still quit, does this point to anything? I pulled the lid off of the Fuel Filter and it looks great inside. So that is where I am at. I luv working on these little fellas. I just need someone with much more experience than me to guide me in the right direction now that you know what I have for scanning and what I have checked thus far. My question at this point is, why is the computer telling the Vane Controller to run at 102% when the rest of the system is not co-operating? The Computer must monitor desired vs. actual on the Vane Controller, so are these values normal and I need to look elsewhere? And why in the heck is this car running so bad and it doesn't set a code?
Hey Guys, I'm new to this forum so please bear with me. I own a driveability shop and work on everything. This 2006 BRM Jetta has no power from a stop most of the time. If you floor it while acting up, the valves rattle and a ton of black smoke out the exhaust. Seems like a fairly common problem with these BRMs. I do all my scanning with a Snap-On MODIS. No codes. Replaced EGR Valve with a new VW test unit/result = no better - replaced Boost Pressure/Intake Air Temperature Sensor with new VW test unit because when I unplugged this the problem went away, granted I had no boost though/result = no better. Wow! How can this thing run this bad and not set any codes? It is capable of setting codes as it did when Boost Pressure Sensor was unplugged. There are no unusual noises from engine as I see guys talking about bad cam lobes. Engine starts great, as fast as you can hit the key, idles smooth. While it is acting up, if you lift throttle for just a second and re-stab throttle, it takes off like a bandit. Once you are rolling down the road it runs fine, has boost, etc. So this is an intermittent problem that occurs only off idle, pulling away from a stop. There is no noise from the turbo at all and can feel it boosting once you are rolling. The only thing out of the ordinary is an exhaust leak from the back of the engine by the EGR Cooler as evidenced by the soot all over which I guess is another common problem on these. I pulled a vacuum on the Turbo Vane Cotroller Rod and watched it move smoothly both ways. I ran Basic Settings test 011 and watched it activate the Vane Controller off-on-off-on, seems to work fine and as well, must have a nice vacuum source since this works very quickly when activated. I monitored the Vane Controller percentage as I applied vacuum up to 20 inch pounds and watched it climb from 0% to 102% and was able to watch it climb one # at a time with no drop outs. If I watch this same value while driving, it is at 102% while backing out of the garage and pulling away slowly. Then you go to pull out into traffic from a stop, forget about it! That's when the black smoke, valves rattling, no power problem manifests itself. If you just keep your foot in it, it will not accel hardly at all and the value still shows 102%. Lift throtlle and re-stab it quickly and the value drops to approx 70ish and power comes back. What I did next was to dis-connect the vacuum supply to the Vane Controller, and while there is not a whole lot of power, which is understandable now that the Vane Controller is "Off-Line", there is no more black smoke, valve rattling problem. I did look at Cam to Crank angle and could see it moving approx. half a point during blip throttle so I know that it is a live value and tracking. If I try and run EGR test 003, the engine will quit. I tried running it again while giving it some throttle and it still quit, does this point to anything? I pulled the lid off of the Fuel Filter and it looks great inside. So that is where I am at. I luv working on these little fellas. I just need someone with much more experience than me to guide me in the right direction now that you know what I have for scanning and what I have checked thus far. My question at this point is, why is the computer telling the Vane Controller to run at 102% when the rest of the system is not co-operating? The Computer must monitor desired vs. actual on the Vane Controller, so are these values normal and I need to look elsewhere? And why in the heck is this car running so bad and it doesn't set a code?
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