Car wont turn off!!!!

97 AHU The IQ adjuster seals were leaking top and bottom. Those were changed and the leak is fixed but now my problem is the car will sit and idle fine but when i turn the car off the engine continues to sit there and idle. I had to take off the intake hose and snuff the engine out with my hand. What happened? I havent checked the IQ values with vagcom yet. is it possible that i didnt align the pin in the hole when i put it back together?

For the car to keep running, your fuel cutoff solenoid must not be going closed, and your intake flapper valve must not be going closed.

Are you sure it is not running on engine oil?

Dan

DanG144 said:

For the car to keep running, your fuel cutoff solenoid must not be going closed, and your intake flapper valve must not be going closed.

Are you sure it is not running on engine oil?

Dan

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On a 97 AHU?

Fuel cutoff is about it - it's getting power or stuck open. Could be an ignition switch issue.

The ignition switch worked fine before but it's a possibility. Where is the fuel cutoff solenoid?

Chris03jetta said:

Where is the fuel cutoff solenoid?

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On the injection pump, just above and to the left of where the metal fuel lines to the injectors attach, and has a single wire held on by a nut.

Simon

rdkern said:

On a 97 AHU?

Fuel cutoff is about it - it's getting power or stuck open. Could be an ignition switch issue.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the education.

Dan

i just tested the solenoid for power and with key off no power, key on and it has power. the power to the solenoid cycles with the key. Im assuming thats how its supposed to work. Im thinking of replacing the solenoid anyone know of a good place to get one?

Try pulling it out and cleaning it, first.

Dan

i pulled it out to clean it and the black plunger was a little tough to pull out, and the o-ring was holding it in. One thing that i noticed was the solenoid was soaked with fuel and the top plastic outside piece was distorted so i tested the solenoid out side the pump and it triggered oneway but not the other so im thinking its buggered. im looking for a new solenoid now but im not finding much.

Check with Aaron (or BleachedBora) and see if he can get you one. Or tell you where to look.

Hello,

The solenoid plunger should move freely by hand. You can also test it off the car by applying 12V to the bolt and touching the case to a ground. Also, the 12V is only available when to the top when the is running or for a few seconds when the key is first cycled if the car is not started. I know this because of the way my add-on lift pump (removed) cycled.

Start the car, let it run, then turn off the car and remove the key. Is this when the car continues to run? If so, check for 12V on the nut with the key removed and car still running. If you lack 12V, then the solenoid is fouled and not falling closed like it should. If you have 12V present with the key removed, then the solenoid is operating as it should and you have another mystery... perhaps the ignition switch as suggested earlier.

Good Luck,

Scott

I installed the new solenoid today and the same as the old one. I had a test light on the solenoid and as the key is turned on there is 12v, the car starts and after about 5 seconds the power is gone and the car still runs with the key still on. turning the key to the off position changes nothing. This problem started when i changed the iq adjuster seals the middle and the top, could i have screwed something up? the ball not in the hole? IQ adjuster not in the right spot? i tested the solenoid and it works like it should. Inside where the plunger goes is clean. Im almost ready to take it to someone to fix it.

I thought that when the car was running there would always be 12v to the solenoid as long as the key is on, is it normal that the power cuts out after 5 seconds or so?

If there is throttle response, then the ball is in the hole. There is also the possibility that the o-ring used is too large, or the cut off solenoid is not completely seated. Either of these conditions would allow enough fuel flow that the engine would continue to run.

IIRC, the power to the solenoid stops if the motor is not running.

Im going to check that stuff out on saturday, im also going to check the iq values with vag com again.

Since you have VAGCOM, run the auto tests (I think that's what they're called). Make sure the car is running and PARKED. The car should stop running when it gets to testing N109. I cannot recall if N109 can be tested alone. I'm sure it can; but I'm not going outside to find out.

Today I tried to see if there was throttle response and sometimes there is sometimes not it seems to depend on where the iq adjuster is positioned. The same goes for the car turning off, sometimes it works and sometimes not. so i would say the ball is in the hole just that the iq adjuster isn't in the right spot. I also tried to get a reading with vagcom and i got to check to see how my 03 alh is set up but then vagcom came up with an error saying to many communication errors and i couldnt do anything after that. maybe it got too cold? Next weekend i'll try the auto tests and see how it goes.
When i was working on the car today it seemed that the car turning off and the idle not reving up to 3000, or the car starting at all depended on the postion of the iq adjuster. I wouldn't think that the shut off solenoid would have anything to do with the iq adjuster?

I had another thought today, seeing as the car has 200 000 miles on it and as far as i know the pump is original. if i send the pump out for a rebuild would it come back set up properly so it would be a simple bolt on and set the timing mechanically and then adjust slightly with vagcom?

Chris03jetta said:

... if i send the pump out for a rebuild would it come back set up properly so it would be a simple bolt on and set the timing mechanically and then adjust slightly with vagcom?

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It had better! Seeing as how you the user have no way of doing an initial setup without the proper equipment, a rebuild shop could hardly justify their high fees without doing that. You might want to ask them to set it at a particular number though, just to make sure. Or ask what they set it to so you'll know.

Relay 109 is the one that runs the fuel cut-off switch, correct?
Maybe the 109 has a short and does not open the connection after it has closed the electricity to feed the injectors fuel.

Try swapping the 109(under the dash @ above the fuse box), with another one(from another running TDI).

what'cha gat to looz?

I sent the pump out to get rebult last week. The guy said there was a broken spring and a lot of water damage. I put the pump back in the car last weekend, lined up my marks that i made before i took the pump off, installed a new timing belt and the car started right up no problems. I checked the timing with vagcom and it was dead on. Lucky i guess. thanks for all the help.