Limp Mode

Antique

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Location
Calgary, Alberta
TDI
99 VW Jetta TDI 1.9 Standard
Hey all.

I have done Everything that is on this Page
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=179589

I have no air leaks, new air lines, new actuator, its not the MAF.
I have installed a new N75.
I have turbo in the low gears.

Once im on the highway , i have no power after 60 mph.

If i floor the pedal, it does nothing, If i very slowly release the pedal, I can Feel the engine Accelerate a Tiny bit.

If I set on cruise , if im going down a hill getting up to 75 mph. the Car just will not maintain the Speed.
 

Carlos_TJ

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2014
Location
Tijuana Mexico
TDI
2009 Bora (BXE PD)
If you conect a vacuum pump to the turbo actuator, do you get smooth travel of the mechanism?
Does it takes a while to start moving after the vacuum pump is started?
Do you hear squeaks or see jumps in the travel?
 

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
Since you've ruled out a lot of stuff, might really to get a VCDS (or equal). Can sometimes be rented or borrowed. Check local groups, it's the same tool used for a gas VW.
 

Antique

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Location
Calgary, Alberta
TDI
99 VW Jetta TDI 1.9 Standard
I have the full version of VCDS. I just am not sure what to look for.

Also, No Squeaks , or jumping in travel. Yes the Actator is working.

I did an oil change, the car was workign for 200 miles.
Then went Back into limp mode
 
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Blackjedi

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2014
Location
NE corner of WA state (Kettle Falls)
TDI
2000 jetta 5 speed 1.9 alh tdi
If to haven't already check all your vacuum lines, if your maf and n75 is good next step is checking your turbo actuator. Like others have said hook it up and see if it holds vacuum. It could be bad. If that isn't it report back with anything you have found so we can further help you diagnose the problem.
 

pdtdiarl

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2018
Location
EU
TDI
golf4
You should go to group 11 of basic settings, vcds, to check if the actuator moves.
You can also unscrew the bracket that holds the actuator and try to move it with your hand and check if the vanes aren't stuck.
 

Carlos_TJ

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2014
Location
Tijuana Mexico
TDI
2009 Bora (BXE PD)
Check your EGR valve.


I was experiencing random limp modes at 3k rpms. I checked the usual (air leaks, turbo actuator travel and smoothness, tried redline it to clean it)

In the end i found out my EGR was not completely closing when it was supposed to.
After i cleaned it the problem went away.
 

Vince Waldon

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Location
Edmonton AB Canada
TDI
2001 ALH Jetta, 2003 ALH Wagon, 2005 BEW Wagon
it says it is suppose to be an air leak somewher
I'm not sure which DTC is for "air leaks"... perhaps it might be helpful to post the results of a full autoscan, as there may be additional clues that might help narrow things down.

Also, to clarify... does the power come back if you pull over to the side of the road, turn the car off, and then turn it back on again?

If so (you have normal power for a while, then it goes away, and you can bring it back by cycling the ignition)... this is limp mode.

If the power is low *all* the time this is not limp mode, and so the troubleshooting would need to look at other things as well.
 
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Antique

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Location
Calgary, Alberta
TDI
99 VW Jetta TDI 1.9 Standard
I cleaned out the EGR, I checked VCDS my n75 is at 24.7% charge and staying there, what is the Charge suppose to reach? N18 50.8%
 

POWERSTROKE

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 17, 2000
Location
Staten Island (The Dump)
TDI
2002 Golf
Does it start moving at 3-5mg/hg and stop between 18-19? I just installed a new one on my car a week or two ago. Not hard but the adjustment takes a couple t at runs to get right. Need a vacuum gauge to dial it in.
 

Antique

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 2, 2016
Location
Calgary, Alberta
TDI
99 VW Jetta TDI 1.9 Standard
I'm not sure which DTC is for "air leaks"... perhaps it might be helpful to post the results of a full autoscan, as there may be additional clues that might help narrow things down.

Also, to clarify... does the power come back if you pull over to the side of the road, turn the car off, and then turn it back on again?

If so (you have normal power for a while, then it goes away, and you can bring it back by cycling the ignition)... this is limp mode.

If the power is low *all* the time this is not limp mode, and so the troubleshooting would need to look at other things as well.
Yes I can turn off the car, and it fixes it self
then once i start hitting 3k rpm it limp modes back in
 

POWERSTROKE

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 17, 2000
Location
Staten Island (The Dump)
TDI
2002 Golf
Have you verified that all the vacuum lines are connected to the correct places? Have you tested the cars vacuum at idle by plugging the mityvac into the line that goes into the vac port on the n75? That number should be around 29mg/hg at idle.
 

pdtdiarl

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2018
Location
EU
TDI
golf4
Have you verified that all the vacuum lines are connected to the correct places? Have you tested the cars vacuum at idle by plugging the mityvac into the line that goes into the vac port on the n75? That number should be around 29mg/hg at idle.
A low or no vacuum by the pump would be noticed on other stuff, brake assist, anti shudder valve, for example.

Redoing all the vacuum diagram with new pipes wouldn't take much work to do, and could probably solve the problem.
 

POWERSTROKE

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jul 17, 2000
Location
Staten Island (The Dump)
TDI
2002 Golf
He could have low vacuum at the source, and it could be bleeding off when the turbo gets actuated. The op came back and said the actuator arm wasn’t connected to the turbo vanes. He needs to start over. Get the vacuum line diagram, go through it piece by piece. Make sure each one is connected to the correct location, and that each line is in good condition. He then needs to make sure the actuator is connected to the turbo correctly. Make sure the actuator lever is straight and not binding because of it being crooked. I believe the pdf says to hold the lever with an 11mm wrench. I hold it with my fingers. Then when all of this is set up, he needs to adjust the actuator so that it fully opens against the screw stop at 18-19 mg/hg. I would also for giggles, as I stated earlier, test the vacuum source and make sure it’s above 25 mg/hg st the source. If this all checks out, the car should run well. How about dtcs?
 
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