Replaced front seal...still leaks

I replaced the front seal last weekend on my '06 BRM. I did it in conjunction with a timing belt change. Used all the correct tools, including the crankshaft counter hold tool. Installed a new spring seal. Didn't seem to be any leaks for a couple of days, but now it's back to leaking just as bad as it did before. I didn't nick or score the journal surface when removing the old seal. I was very careful when installing the new seal. I went slow, and tapped the new seal in evenly using a large socket that was the exact size as the new seal. Any ideas on what could be going on? I'm really bummed about this, since it's such a PITA to get down to this seal. I'm not looking forward to doing it again. Cheers.

Maybe that was not your leak?

I have only ever used the OEM type seal, which requires the use of the install tool and they must be done dry.

Also verify the size of the seal is correct (it should be molded into it).

038-103-085-E which is 35 x 48 x 10 (millimeters, of course).

The install tool required is the T10053 which comes with the pusher bolt, the pusher itself, and the cone to allow the seal to slip over the end of the crankshaft. The cones are very fragile, I usually only get a handful of uses out of them before I have to get a new cone. If you google that tool number you can find them fairly inexpensively.

Good luck!

High crank case pressure?

Maybe that was not your leak?

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Once I got the crankshaft pulley off, I could see evidence of oil coming out around the seal.

High crank case pressure?

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Maybe, how can I check that? What other symptoms would I expect to have? I don’t know the history of the motor, but it seems to be a pretty good runner.

If your seal was the newer teflon style as opposed to the older rubber style then as oilhammer pointed out they should be installed dry. In fact you would need to clean the contact surface with alcohol or a similar cleaner and after installation, don't move the crank for 4 hours.

Tdijarhead said:

If your seal was the newer teflon style as opposed to the older rubber style then as oilhammer pointed out they should be installed dry. In fact you would need to clean the contact surface with alcohol or a similar cleaner and after installation, don't move the crank for 4 hours.

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No it was the spring seal style. I guess i will have to install a PTFE in the near future.

Nothing wrong with the rubber spring style, just lube them on install and be careful not to nick them.