DIY DPF Delete Question

Hi All,

Finally took the plunge and sprung for the rawtek downpipe and midpipe and I'm doing the install this weekend in my drive way. My main concern after searching around the net is the mixed opinions on whether the subframe has to be dropped and/or the passenger side axel removed in order to get the dpf out. Looking for some guidance from anyone who has done this mod personally. Also if I drop the sub frame and/or remove the axel will I need to replace the bolts or can I reuse them? Thanks in advance for your input!

FYI.....I drive a 2011 Golf 6MT

WHY???!!! Sounds like a totally superfluous "mod".

If you leave it totally alone, it will virtually be no different than you dick around with it!!!

Unless you have the philosophy of:

I did this last weekend. That said, mine is a 2010, so some of this may apply, and some not.

I did not have to remove the axle completely, though it did have to be unbolted from the output flange on the transmission. 6MT, for the record.

I DID have to drop the subframe, and even then the DPF was extremely difficult to get out of its tunnel. I "only" dropped it about an inch, or as far as the front (shortest of them all) bolts would allow. I've heard of trouble dropping it too far, as the steering rack will be supported by a wiring harness and 10mm bolt. The DPF did come out after some wrestling. The toughest part was the DPF getting wedged in 3 spots at once. The inlet flange on the DPF getting hung up on the high pressure A/C line running across the firewall, the small LP EGR band clamp flange below the DPF getting pushed up against the exhaust tunnel on the body, and the top DPF heat shield stud getting wedged against the EGR cooler body. This was with the specific direction of twist that rawtek mentioned in their instructions. It did come out with some pulling and clearancing of the AC line.

I ended up removing the EGR cooler as well, which makes a ton of room behind the engine. You'll need to bypass the coolant line, and plug the LP EGR inlet on the compressor housing if you go this route, FYI.

You forgot the mandatory legality disclaimer.

This modification is not legal for use on the road anywhere in the USA.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=396162

You will need a tune quickly as well.

so i am assuming you can reuse all of the bolts?

carts said:

so i am assuming you can reuse all of the bolts?

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The subframe and axle bolts are all TTY and VW recommends you replace them all.

Technically the axle to transmission CV flange bolts aren't TTY, though the manual does recommend a 2-stage tightening sequence, and replacement each time. Some people prefer to clean and reuse. They aren't that expensive and big trouble if they come loose.

The axle end-bolt that goes through the hub is TTY.. though lots of people (myself included) were able to get the DPF/turbo out without completely removing the axle, and as a result, that bolt.

bloc said:

Technically the axle to transmission CV flange bolts aren't TTY, though the manual does recommend a 2-stage tightening sequence, and replacement each time. Some people prefer to clean and reuse. They aren't that expensive and big trouble if they come loose.

The axle end-bolt that goes through the hub is TTY.. though lots of people (myself included) were able to get the DPF/turbo out without completely removing the axle, and as a result, that bolt.

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I re-used the axle to transmission triple square bolts, but I did replace the axle bolt to be safe. It was so easy to take the axle 100% out of the car to give plenty of room, just undo the pass lower ball joint and your in business. You may be able to sneak it out with the axle dangling, but for aggravations sake I say take it out. Prob save yourself time in the long run.

Personally I'd rather loosen as little as possible, at least with respect to things that can alter alignment. When I did my subframe I marked the position side to side and front to back. It was tough enough to make sure that was done side to side and front to back (turns out my subframe wasn't perfectly straight in the car from the factory.. but I put it back where it was.) When it was all bolted back together it drove exactly as before.

On my Mk4 I had more trouble getting the balljoint marked in a way that promoted exact replacement. plus I've read that the wheel bearings are very fragile when the cv and bolt are removed?

Anyway, the CV wasn't much of an issue in my case. it didn't dangle any lower than the subframe.. and when it came time to remove the turbo I just pushed the trans end of the axle up against the block and there was plenty of room. And, i didn't have to remove the wheel. I'd be very surprised if it took me longer to get the turbo out than someone that removed the axle completely, considering the rest of the stuff that has to be marked, loosened, and reinstalled.

All of that said, I didn't have an EGR cooler in the way anymore.. that may make the case for total R&R of the axle.. but I haven't tried it.

I removed the triple squares on my 6mt that connect the shaft to the output and I undid the lower balljoint to have enough wiggle room to move the shaft but didnt undo any of the subframe bolts and got my dpf out. It certainly took some wrestling but it came out.

What reason did you remove the DPF? I am getting huge flak for posting almost the same thing in the West Coast forum.

Killabee228 said:

What reason did you remove the DPF? I am getting huge flak for posting almost the same thing in the West Coast forum.

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Yeah, pretty much the same thing, IF you leave out the part where you lied your ass off and then copped an attitude.

Withdrawing money from a bank is no big deal if you have an account. If you don't have an account, it's Bank Robbery.

Details.

Bill

lol troll.... did you find me bill? I was asking the OP not you.

Killabee228 said:

lol troll.... did you find me bill? I was asking the OP not you.

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I clicked New Posts. Wonder of wonders, there you were, whining about being mistreated.


Bill

I removed the six triple square bolts from the axle flange and reused them. It was nice to be able to move the axle for and aft to make room to access and see things.

I tried pulling the DPF out without lowering the subframe. I ended up lowering the subframe and reused the bolts. It was still a struggle to remove the DPF and I had to push up on the heat shield and deform it to make room to extract the DPF.