Thanks. Now limited on cash for parts and services. My mini goal for the moment is to get the head sent out to FrankO6 by Christmas. I know he is busy as all hell, so that should give me some time to save up the cash for his services.Nice thread, keep the updates coming
Really?just make sure you have compressed air to clean it of blasting media
ask Guthrie....he found out the hard wayReally?
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I'll check for a plate when I get home from work. Where should it be, on the cartridge? I found this model turbo through 4btforums and purchased it from the same eBay company as the OP in that thread. He installed his a couple years ago with no issues reported yet. It was advertised by the seller as a genuine Garrett reman.
Now i will give it to you that turbo looks almost exactly the same as mine. I bought mine from Kinugawa, which has mixed reviews on the forums, but this looks to be a quality product. I'll see how it runs. Apparently they are known to be very good with returns and warranty issues.
I have a few reasons for this. I will have a bit of a sound system, probably not enough to need more than 120 though. I am also thinking of getting an inline 12v coolant heater like my MK6 has to keep it nice and warm in the winter. Just adding a few heavy electrical loads and wondering if there are any drop ins available. Otherwise I'd have to get my current alternator rewound at a shop.
+1 this. I used to install car stereos a long time ago (1998-2000) and in my experience, an Optima red top, 120A alternator, and a good sized capacitor (1 farad would probably be overkill but it's good insurance) for a two amp setup running under 1000W RMS will work just fine. If you plan to run the stereo a lot with the engine off, then get a deep cycle battery, otherwise regular Optima or similar type will do. Don't forget the sound deadening if you go with a sub. That Golf will rattle without it.
Before getting into cars I was into car audio and worked at a few shops. I even got my MECP cert for installing mobile electronics. I remember my old bosses telling me and the book saying (even though we would sell caps to stupid people left and right) there is no point in buying a cap till you upgrade your alternator. Furthermore, caps really only help with audio systems because their output varies and the surge capacity helps cut down on voltage drops that cause distortion. Caps are only good for audio systems when you have enough alternator capacity to keep up with the continuous demands, but you experience voltage drops (headlights dimming, distortion from motorboating the amp, etc.) during peak demand. I don't forsee that being a problem for me, and I don't listen to genres of music that put those types of requirements on my sound system (rap is best known for creating surge demands).
Okay, now I get what you are doing with the Golf. My previous comment was incorrect. Capacitor won't help for that. The alternator definitely needs to be sized correctly to the load. I found a few companies offering high output alternators for VWs. A couple of links are below.
Thanks. That 150A one for $345 looked like a pretty good deal. I wonder if the CJAA could be adapted to fit on the 1Z. I gotta get a closer look at it. They tuck it pretty deep in the MK6.
the mk4 fits exactly the same, but for some reason is much cheaper than an oem mk3 one...There is a difference between "clutched" and this OAD design. The only VW the website lists is an 09-12 Amarok 2.0TSI which makes me wonder because I would think the 2.0TSI in the MK6 would have the same alternator as the TDI. Also, when I looked up the OAD pulley for the Amarok on that decoupler pulley site, it looks exactly the same as the pulley included with the CJAA alternator on rockauto. Need to do a little more digging....you should definitely be using a clutched alternator pulley regardless. hopefully you are checking/replacing your crank gear at this time (i would pin it as G60ING has shown in his thread). i use an mk4 clutched alt pulley on my mk1 with a 90am o-reilly's alternator
What do you mean by the crank gear, the pulley/harmonic balancer? I already knew I needed a new balancer but what's this about pinning the gear? Like the TB gear?you should definitely be using a clutched alternator pulley regardless. hopefully you are checking/replacing your crank gear at this time (i would pin it as G60ING has shown in his thread). i use an mk4 clutched alt pulley on my mk1 with a 90am o-reilly's alternator
you should definitely be using a clutched alternator pulley regardless. hopefully you are checking/replacing your crank gear at this time (i would pin it as G60ING has shown in his thread). i use an mk4 clutched alt pulley on my mk1 with a 90am o-reilly's alternator
100% true. the MK4 alternator pulley will bolt right up to the MK3 alternator, but the bore in the back of the pulley isn't deep enough for he longer section on non-threaded shaft on the earlier alternators. The pulley will seat 1-2mmish shy of the washer and not clamp the bearing inner race tight on the rotor. After a few thousand miles this will cause the rotor to spin in the nose bearing in the alternator and grind the rotor till the alternator isn't rebuildable. It's easy to install it and think it's right, then blame the alternator for being a bad rebuild before getting another one and making the same stupid mistake... Don't ask me how I know that...
Good info, the next time I see a mk3 alternator thread I will cut n paste the last two responses for others100% true. the MK4 alternator pulley will bolt right up to the MK3 alternator, but the bore in the back of the pulley isn't deep enough for he longer section on non-threaded shaft on the earlier alternators. The pulley will seat 1-2mmish shy of the washer and not clamp the bearing inner race tight on the rotor. After a few thousand miles this will cause the rotor to spin in the nose bearing in the alternator and grind the rotor till the alternator isn't rebuildable. It's easy to install it and think it's right, then blame the alternator for being a bad rebuild before getting another one and making the same stupid mistake... Don't ask me how I know that...
learning the hardway stinks, thanks for taking one for the team.
VERY GOOD TO KNOW! i burned up two alternators myself (an old OE one, and then a brand new one), and kept looking at it very closely and could not see *** that would be happening. i thought it must have just been a fluke, bad luck100% true. the MK4 alternator pulley will bolt right up to the MK3 alternator, but the bore in the back of the pulley isn't deep enough for he longer section on non-threaded shaft on the earlier alternators. The pulley will seat 1-2mmish shy of the washer and not clamp the bearing inner race tight on the rotor. After a few thousand miles this will cause the rotor to spin in the nose bearing in the alternator and grind the rotor till the alternator isn't rebuildable. It's easy to install it and think it's right, then blame the alternator for being a bad rebuild before getting another one and making the same stupid mistake... Don't ask me how I know that...
so that 1-2mm is enough to cause problems... makes sense. when i put in my last alternator (90-amp from o-reillys), i did not put the curvy washer behind the pulley and afaict it was lined up exactly as it should be and it has been fine for ~8k miles i think. *shrug*How do ya know if ya don't know?VERY GOOD TO KNOW! i burned up two alternators myself (an old OE one, and then a brand new one), and kept looking at it very closely and could not see *** that would be happening. i thought it must have just been a fluke, bad luck
