DC's 1756VK-assisted B4

Rather than changing the angle of the squirter, you want to keep it pointing vertical but move it over I used a 1/4" drive socket of the right size and extension to move them around from the top

Isn't it possible to use oil squirters from PD engines ?

I have been told that it works and I am planning to put some ARL pistons in my AFN engine and I have everything but the oil squirters

It only takes a few minutes to bend them to the right position.

Brass pipe or 1/4" drive socket, either work. Sorry I wasn't clear, but re-angling doesn't work since they have to clear going into the hole. The main curve needs to be re-bent else the "reach" of the nozzle is short by about 2 mm. That gentle bend towards the piston should be straightened too. Then the angle of the tip can be tweaked if need be to ensure the nozzle points straight up. For someone who's not done it before, shouldn't take more than ~30 min.

JFettig said:

Hammer it to 1.7-1.8v

It will smooth out

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Static timing is near full advance, pump voltage is ~1.7, it is definitely smoother now. It's as smooth as stock actually. Thanks Jon!

Just filled up the tank. I've been driving highway and city, mostly highway. Speeds have varried, for the sake of break-in, between 55 mph and 85 mph. Though typically I've pulsed to 80 mph and stayed in gear back to 60 or 65. Overall it was 639.3 miles with 16.419 gallons and a 4.3% correction for the tires: 40.6 mpg.

I rented the 2013 2.5l SE Jetta for two weeks during the rebuild. I drove for economy and barely got 32 mpg. I have 40 mpg and the engine is breaking in? Man I love this TDI.

D.C. - not to rain on the parade, but last week gas was $3.429 at Costco and diesel was $3.879 at the least expensive place in town. So 10 gallons of diesel costs the same as 11.31 gallons of gas. That does trim a good share of the diesel MPG advantage. And the rental Jetta was not a manual trans - it was an automatic. But your MPG will get better with break in. An easy 5 mpg will eliminate the gas price advantage.

Digital Corpus said:

Just filled up the tank. I've been driving highway and city, mostly highway. Speeds have varried, for the sake of break-in, between 55 mph and 85 mph. Though typically I've pulsed to 80 mph and stayed in gear back to 60 or 65. Overall it was 639.3 miles with 16.419 gallons and a 4.3% correction for the tires: 40.6 mpg.

I rented the 2013 2.5l SE Jetta for two weeks during the rebuild. I drove for economy and barely got 32 mpg. I have 40 mpg and the engine is breaking in? Man I love this TDI.

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Had a metallic-like tap when the engine was cold. It went away and then a once-per-rev rattle started up a couple hundred miles later. Got the car in the garage after replacing the starter on our A4, trade one working car for another, and looked underneath at my downpipe since it's angle needs about a 10˚ tweak. Well, I noticed the short bendy part that I had made so the DP is easily removable has a small crack in the bottom. I took it off a few minutes ago and noticed the crack went to the weld and I can trace it around about 2/3rds around the weld to the flange. Guess I gotta build it stronger and replace it. Nice part is that I don't need to replace the whole downpipe

This piece around the flange is where the crack occurred.

No flex pipe? That's why it cracked. At rest it's fine, but this engine design rocks like a baby in a cradle under driving conditions. I've seen them rock so much on the dyno the hall effect sensor would drop the congruency.

Since I've needed to adjust the DP, the rest of the exhaust hasn't been hooked up. Right after the DP is the flex pipe. The crack was clearly related to torsional forces. I was actually planning on making a cradle, similar to the MKIV's exhaust, to help support the DP with added cushion.

Last night I came across some 14 gauge SS 2.5" pipe, 180˚ mandrel bend. Probably going to use it and a new flange for added rigidity. Anyhow, going to go visit a few places to see if they think it's wise to patch this section up and use it while I wait for the new material to ship.

Digital Corpus said:

There is one itty bitty problem with going with this manifold, the turbo is positioned closer to the firewall. I guess there is supposed to be a heat shield that one bolts onto the hotside, but I don't have one. The upper mount nub allows for about 1/2" clearance with the firewall. Unless you plan on using it, cut it off, imho, and give yourself more clearance.



If you don't, your firewall could end up looking like this:

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I wish I had listened to this - dropped my engine in yesterday. I had this in my head as a 'to do' but never actually got around to it. That nub definitely is going to rip up my firewall insulation over time.

Is the turbo already primed? That's the pita part for why you've not taken it off and fixed it, right?

Was more a matter of "OK I have a helper here to install the engine with me now so let's just get this in". It is primed yes, but I suppose I could unbolt the turbo from the manifold still.

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So I've been trying to track down a vacuum problem and was curious as to why I *never* had a problem before the engine rebuild. That is, I had driven for nearly a year with no problem on the turbo. I need to have a closer look as to how the MK IV is setup and I'm sure it'll give me some insights as to how fix my problem.

The problem is simple, when letting off the brake, vacuum is partially depleted. This isn't so great when you're cornering and the clutch pedal doesn't come back up as quickly as is normal. Nor is it helpful if your turbo starts to let off boost when you're terrorizing a local onramp. Clutch master cylinder and brake booster were swapped out. I then hooked up the MityVac to the vacuum system to see what was going on.

Vacuum depletes to 15 inHg and even 10 inHg with relative ease of pumping the brakes. Utilizing the brakes in some short distance intersections and then vacuum for the turbo, and the brake and go around a corner (part of my regular commute) was apparently easy enough to drop the vacuum level down to this point. However, previously the turbo had been set to 11.5-12.5 inHg in order to get it to boost properly. This was later found out to have been needed since the stop screw was setup improperly. Now at 15-16 inHg for closing the vanes up fully it makes sense why I'm just now having the problem.


So, I picked up a check valve from the junk yard as I was hunting for a different part. I have a new one JIC this one fails soon:

I quickly realized that it needed a larger line such as the spare boost controller line:



But all of my silicone lines are this size


So, I improvised with a little help of soapy water:


The rest of the plumbing was simple as this new line with the check valve replace the straight silicone line to the turbo side fo teh vacuum system.
As such, with this little tweak, which I believe is already present in the MK IV platform, the vacuum reservoir and system for the N75 is then separated from the brake booster. Fixed the boost problem, but I still have to track down and solve the slow return clutch which is happening after heavy breaking.

Now, the reason I picked up that check valve was cause I needed a new female terminal for my lift needle sensor. One of the wires decided to brake off. Turns out the PO had cut a new one in to the original two times previously. Granted, it lasted for about 100K since I bought the car, but I wasn't thrilled when I saw these solder joints:


I snipped this guy off of a 1.8T in the junk yard. I fancied it since it had the 90˚ turndown:



While I was there, I noted the heat shield for the brake lines. I figured it was worthwhile given how close my turbo was to it. Forgive the quality please. I used my cell phone since it fit inside the engine bay.

A coat of paint and some cleaning up:

I had to troubleshoot my loss of vacuum to the brake booster 3 years ago.
Turns out some rodent chewed a small hole in a small feeder line to the recirculation door control.
I would isolate the small lines and see how the brake booster reacts.
Have you tried lubricating the clutch pedal pivot?

Tony
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I greased the pivot before install and I've checked our other B4, bone stock, and it's depletion and then build up of vacuum is equivalent to what I currently have.

DC - do you have a vacuum ball on your B4?

On a MKIV, you can strip all that stuff out and not have any issues with vacuum supply but maybe the ALH has a higher capacity vacuum pump as well?

Good troubleshooting!

Yup, I have the vacuum ball. Mounted it under the coolant reservoir. I'm tempted to add the B4 VR6's vacuum reservoir to the system to see if it helps. Though I've not changed the clutch slave cylinder which is usually recommended when changing the master cylinder.

I'm not following the connection between the vacuum system and the clutch slave cylinder?

I'll admit I'm kinda throwing darts at a wall...

Vacuum shouldn't affect clutch operation at all, right? However, there is a definitive correlation between low vacuum and slow clutch pedal return.

That being said, I changed out the clutch master cylinder due to old fluid and trouble shooting in case there were problems with the seals from the old fluid. It's advised to change out the slave cylinder at the same time, which I've not done.

I've passed about 2 liters of brake fluid through the system with a power bleeder so I'm certain I don't have any air in the brake or clutch lines.

That's really weird. There is absolutely no connection between the two systems other than the fluid reservoir being physically close to the brake booster.

I can easily see the slave cylinder acting up if you changed anything in your clutch during your build. Any time anything changes the stroke of the cylinder it tends to get weird since there is an area that has worn from use previously. Even a couple mm difference in engagement can eat the seals pretty quickly as they transition from the worn in part of the cylinder to the previously unused part.

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No clutch modifications during the rebuild. Guess I should trade in a new clutch salve cylinder and go from there. What is the stock piston diameter of the slave cylinder, it seems that there are various options for this.

Clutch slave cylinder went in and the clutch problems seem to be solved. Must've been degraded seal??? I did notice the seat for the piston on the clutch pedal now has broken welds for the back piece thats loaded by the master cylinder. I'll be keeping an eye on it...

I would say everything is hunky dory, however I had the engine die on me in 4th again on an onramp coming back home from a friends house... I'm now in the middle of generating header files for a custom solution, PIC32MX795 in MPIDE so I don't have to shell out $1000 for a software license just to enable default GCC compiler optimizations. I give you props if you understand what I'm talking about.

As such, I'm not in a mood to go pull a log on that onramp right now. G-forces seem to have an impact on if the engine cuts out. It's not a sputtering out, not a hesitation. The engine just dies and I roll ever forward, even in gear. I power cycle the ignition and the car starts back up again. I've confirmed that both bundles of wires from the IP to the loom are chaff-free. I've heard that this may be ignition switch or relay 109 related. I'd like to understand *why* this is happening.

You have 'picd' my interest!

Regarding the engine cutting out...I had a similar issue about a year ago. I know you mentioned harnesses are chaff free.
The harness that ran under my battery was chafed. Several wires were shorting to ground and to each other.
Tony

Tony
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Were there any external signs of the chaffed wire or did you have to peel back the electrical tape on everything?

Yeah, after that I need to make my own header files for the 8-channel DMA controller that isn't supported, multi-channel SPI, multi-channel I2C, and fill in any gaps that are assumed or created since this will not be compatible with Arduino's libraries for those interfaces or pin outs. This is TDI related and when I have working hardware and software running at the desired speeds, I'll make the project public.

No external signs. I had to peel back the loom and tape.

Tony
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That's a whole day project that I'm not looking forward too If I can more regularly reproduce the problem, I'll try out a new ignition switch and if that doesn't fix it, I'll go after tearing apart the loom. Thanks for the advise, Tony.

It was 1/2 day at most.

Glad to help anytime.

Tony
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