Help regarding my 2003 Jetta TDI ,

You won't experience any significant difference in ride or handling with the wider tires. Tire brand and wear rating will probably make more difference than the change in size.

I wish I was able to gamble like this.

Please get the timing belt system replaced. Is the car an Auto or Manual transmission?

IndigoBlueWagon said:

You won't experience any significant difference in ride or handling with the wider tires. Tire brand and wear rating will probably make more difference than the change in size.

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^this.

I went to the 205s when I replaced the original tires, the shop suggested the size change, claiming slightly better cornering due to the very slight added width. I've never been certain that there was a noticeable difference, likely because I'm not that "spririted" a driver. IBW's got a lot of track hours, and is more likely to be able to judge that sort of thing.

In the grand scheme for most of us, 195-65 or 205-60 is probably a toss-up, though it might open up the range of tires you can look at a little. Definitely stick with 91H-rated ones, though, whichever size you go with.

I just got the car back , timing belt was replaced at the dealer. Thanks to all the guys asking me to do this.
Car still has the original tires, from 2013, believe it or not. Just as a fun fact .

I got the 205 /60 ones from a local junk yard, as being brand new tires, with 10/32 thread on them for really cheap. General brand i believe, I had those before for my truck , and they were really good tires. The 195/65/15 i have on the car right are from 2003 according to the date stamped on the tire, most likely the original tires that car came with . They are full of cracks , but they still look good. I dont trust them . I am taking a chance with these ones. I get my new tires tomorrow.

Yeah, tires from 2003 aren't a good idea to be still rolling around on.

dacianus said:

I just got the car back , timing belt was replaced at the dealer. Thanks to all the guys asking me to do this.
Car still has the original tires, from 2013, believe it or not. Just as a fun fact .

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Just to beat the proverbial dead horse, try to get a list of parts from dealer what replaced the timing belt. Dealers, especially on a for sale unit, have been known to take shortcuts. It's often the doodads (rollers, tensioner, water pump, engine mount bolts) that fail.

dacianus said:

Are they pretty good , these Moonson units ? I can get one from the a junk yard for few dollars, just to keep the original look. Anyone knows where i can buy those blades called removal DIN tools, from a brick store :?

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It seems also that the 2003 and 2004 models are identical , so most likely they can be swapped around,correct ??

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The Monsoons are OK. They're better than the standard radio, but few people are going to sit in their cars just to listen to the Monsoon system. If you can pick one up for a few bucks, it's an easier install than almost anything else and the looks will match exactly. The Monsoon system was a combination of head unit, amplifier, and speaker equalization, so it's not just pulling out the head unit and slapping another double-DIN in there.

As for the removal tools, I don't know where you'll find 'em from a brick-and-mortar store. Probably a place that installs car stereos. But you really don't need a store. You can even make your own removal tool; I've seen patterns on the 'net (it's just a finger of whatever material with a notch cut out to trip the latch and pull out the HU). If you can't find the pattern on the Internet, PM me here. I can dig up my set and show you what they should look like.

dacianus said:

I got the 205 /60 ones from a local junk yard, as being brand new tires, with 10/32 thread on them for really cheap. General brand i believe, I had those before for my truck , and they were really good tires. The 195/65/15 i have on the car right are from 2003 according to the date stamped on the tire, most likely the original tires that car came with . They are full of cracks , but they still look good. I dont trust them . I am taking a chance with these ones. I get my new tires tomorrow.

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So, you drove an '03 Jetta TDI 85 MPH on 16 year old tires and a 16 year old timing belt correct? Would you buy me some Power Ball tickets? You, sir are a lucky, lucky man!!

I drove that Jetta to 80-85 almost for just like a minute , to see something. It was the CEL showing up , after that , my turbo was stuck . And yes, i took a chance.
And i have a blue JETTA , and i have a special relationship with blue cars. Blue is my favorite color.
Car was sitting mostly from 2009. From 2009-2019 it made only 13k miles. But i have replaced the tires, and the timing belt.
So i am on the good side. I am not trying to bet my life on an old car.

I got a touch screen , double din , with the wire harness, and everything else. A kenwood stereo .
It came with all the harness.
PAC RP4-VW11
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_541RP4VW11/PAC-RP4-VW11-Wiring-Interface.html
and the antenna adaptor also. I am waiting for the dash kit.

There is one thing i dont know about this... is there anything going in to the other end of the PAC RP41 ? Everything was disconnected properly from where it was connected( another VW CAR )

Crutchfield has the key's to remove the radio.
I also got my power injector antenna adapter from them to power the amplifier in the antenna.

I would like to change out the likely corroded antennae parts in my Jetta, but I am afraid I would mess up the headliner.

I took the back trim that goes across the back and a few screws (iIrc) and the back of the headliner and was able to be pulled down enough to sneak in.
I also took the light out.
Car is a wagon btw.

I don't think there is any problems with the antenna wire from the back to the front.
You should only need the base.
I can't see anything going wrong with the screw on antenna.

Hello again guys.

I made some changes to my car , and it seems that turbo works at full capacity with colder air, and it will throw a CEL when is hot.
Few questions that i am not able to find an answer to them

Car is from 2003, the N75 and N18 are the original parts most likely . How long they are supposed to last ? It has been 16 years.
MAF is most likely the original one, i will replace it tonight.
Now i seen on the forum a bunch of people saying that MAF can give that overboost condition , code P0234. Some other people said that is not true. Believe whom ?

I dont want to replace the turbo and getting the same issues.
The VNT actuator when pushed down on it , from the top side of the engine, how much it is supposed to move, like an 1 inch , more or less ?
It should move pretty easily or no ?
Little recap about the car: 2003 jetta tdi , 81k miles as of today , car was sitting for most of the time in the last 10 years. I believe it did around 13k miles in those 10 years.
Manifold intake and EGR and quite clean , not much of deposits. EGR is showing just grease layer of dirt.

Any ideas /responses would be great. Thank you

You really need to find someone with VCDS and run some boost logs to find out what's going on. Otherwise you're just throwing parts at the problem. A failing MAF usually doesn't case overboost, but it can cause limp mode. And I doubt the issue is temperature related.

dacianus said:

Anyone knows where i can buy those blades called removal DIN tools, from a brick store :?

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you can make your own..check this video

dacianus said:

I dont want to replace the turbo and getting the same issues.

The VNT actuator when pushed down on it , from the top side of the engine, how much it is supposed to move, like an 1 inch , more or less ?
It should move pretty easily or no ?

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You really need VCDS to properly diagnose the problem.

The actuator should be tested with a vacuum pump.
It should hold vacuum.
It should start to move the arm at about 3 or 4 inches of vacuum and be fully retracted at about 20 inches.

I would take the actuator off to check that the arm going into the turbo moves smooth, easy, and free.

There is a VW bulletin about the actuator rusting inside and causing it not to move properly.

OP, are you in the West Coast Washington or East Coast?

flashmayo said:

OP, are you in the West Coast Washington or East Coast?

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Hi there.
I am on the west coast .

Update: Thank to one of the guys here on the forum i was able to figure it out. The actuator was most likely replaced and settings were bad. It was adjusted and gladly i have to say no more CEL.

I still have to take it up to 90mph or over to see if the CEL will reappear or limp mode will trigger. It used to trigger CEL arround 82-85mph but no more at that speed.

To all of you guys , .....

Car wont go over 85 mph, any ideas ? And it is triggering CEL when i go 85 mph, going downhill. It wont trigger CEL when going hard uphill. That seems weird to me.

Ideas ?>

What's the code? WAG, but do you have a real Bosch MAF?

I have one of these guys installed , less than 1 month ago . Bosch Automotive 0281002757 Mass Air Flow Sensor, bought it on Amazon.
There is no soot in the EGR or intake manifold.
Car has only 82 k miles at this moment. I did not checked the code yet, it happend last night, i ll try to read it this following 2 days.
N75 on the way out ?

I ll try to find a N75 at the local junk yard, to see what it does. Turbo is running fine , i am out of ideas.

What is WAG ???

dacianus said:

I have one of these guys installed , less than 1 month ago . Bosch Automotive 0281002757 Mass Air Flow Sensor, bought it on Amazon.
There is no soot in the EGR or intake manifold.
Car has only 82 k miles at this moment. I did not checked the code yet, it happend last night, i ll try to read it this following 2 days.
N75 on the way out ?

I ll try to find a N75 at the local junk yard, to see what it does. Turbo is running fine , i am out of ideas.

What is WAG ???

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If the code was for a boost issue it usually gets cleared when you shut the car off.

Getting a N75 from the JY may be worn out as most of our vintage cars have much higher mileage then yours.

Playing the guess a part game can get very expensive very fast.
I would want the correct code and diagnose what it is.

I didn't look back at this thread but vacuum could be the cause, electrical issues, or mechanical.

Not enough vacuum, bad wiring, sticky vanes in the turbo, even rust inside the actuator.
There is a VW bulletin about it.

WAG wild a$$ guess.
wonneber has listed many of the most common ailments we see with these symptoms.