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VW B5 Passat TDIs This is a general discussion about B5 Passat(>98 (2004-2005 in North America)). Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old July 31st, 2017, 10:43   #1
Dr. Greenthumb
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Default Blown Turbo? 05 BHW TDI Passat

It seems my turbo took a big dump over the week end . Earlier in the week the high pressure hose popped off the intercooler intake . Got CEL and put it back on. Yesterday driving on the highway, I heard a pop and then no real power. Got to where I was going and shut it down. Tried to start again, it started and ran. When I tried to move it huge clouds of white smoke came out and smelled horrible - like sulfur. At idle, no smoke.

What do you think? Blown turbo or something else?

I cannot check CEL or look under the hood. The car needs to be towed and it won't be here until later.
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Old August 1st, 2017, 09:55   #2
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1. Check your turbo hoses again.
2. Check your oil level. If it is low or nothing on the dipstick then you may have blown the seal on the turbo and dumped oil in the exhaust
3. check your coolant level. EGR cooler could have dumped coolant into exhaust
4. pull the O2 sensor to see if is covered with oil or coolant
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Old August 1st, 2017, 20:50   #3
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Default Another blown turbo?

I'm a newbie and don't see how to start a new thread, so am tacking on to this.
I own a 2005 Passat GLS TDI wagon with 241K miles on it. This last weekend I was headed home on I-5 when I suddenly lost boost. The shop replaced the MAF sensor, then discovered a hole in the intercooler-turbo hose and replaced it (I'm now in for a bit over $800), but I still have no boost. Now they want $2200 to replace the turbocharger, which I don't have; so I drove it home and parked it. Q: What should a good turbo cost me, and where should I look for one?
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 07:33   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edk68 View Post
I'm a newbie and don't see how to start a new thread, so am tacking on to this.
I own a 2005 Passat GLS TDI wagon with 241K miles on it. This last weekend I was headed home on I-5 when I suddenly lost boost. The shop replaced the MAF sensor, then discovered a hole in the intercooler-turbo hose and replaced it (I'm now in for a bit over $800), but I still have no boost. Now they want $2200 to replace the turbocharger, which I don't have; so I drove it home and parked it. Q: What should a good turbo cost me, and where should I look for one?
Bring it here: http://fixumhaus.com/

They will diagnose it properly. The hole is common, the Maf was probably good and if everything worked before, it would seem unlikely that you need a new turbo. What you need is a new mechanic!
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 09:42   #5
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Turbos rarely fail on these cars. The only ones I have ever had to replace were ones that starved for oil after the chain blew up.
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Old August 2nd, 2017, 16:31   #6
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On a different thread, Windex said: "The N75 and/or a bad VNT actuator are much more common (and cheaper) causes."

Very interesting, but I have no idea what those are. Can you enlighten me?

Are there things I can do to check whether the turbo is ok? Getting the car to Portland is likely to be difficult.
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Old August 3rd, 2017, 04:11   #7
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The BHW has the simplest vacuum system of all the TDIs sold in North America. That makes troubleshooting the VNT system easier. Less places for vacuum leaks.

The part that makes it NOT so easy is the location of most of the bits, specifically the N75 valve. The N75, the vacuum reservoir, and the tees and such are all mounted on a bracket down low in front of the engine, that is not easy to get to without a little digging.

But with a proper scan tool, you can easily check the VNT movement in Basic Settings with the engine running. It will cycle the N75 on/off in ~5 sec stages so you can just sit and watch the VNT actuator moving up and down.

If it doesn't, then you first have to check source vacuum. The source comes from the vacuum pump, same pump that provides boost for the brakes. So if the power brakes work, you at least know that part is good.

Locate the small vacuum line coming off of the booster vacuum tube back near the firewall. This goes across to the check valve (often called the yingyang valve, as it is black and white). Make sure that valve is working correctly. Should allow airflow one way, not the other.

From there, you'll need to remove the air cleaner assembly and the air inlet tube from the air cleaner to the turbo inlet, to gain good access to the rest of the vacuum system. You will have to unplug the crankcase breather heater on the breather tube and get that out of the way too.

Then you can look down towards the front of the engine, near the electric fan, and sort of see the rest of the vacuum system, and there is a hose coming back up and on to the VNT actuator.

The bracket that holds everything is held to the block with 2 Allen bolts. With a shallow socket, you can remove those bolts and lift the bracket and the sound deadening block over and out of the car, bringing the vacuum harness along with it.

The vacuum vent is the one that goes back up into the air cleaner lid. If there was a breech in this part, it would not cause a lack of boost, however it would over time allow unfiltered air to get into the vacuum system and clog up the N75, which WOULD cause problems.

Once you get the assembly loose, carefully check it for any obvious leaks, especially if the breather has been allowed to weep oil for a while. This can cause the molded vacuum fitting to swell and come loose.

Then with a vacuum pump, and a known-good chunk of vacuum hose, apply vacuum to the VNT actuator, it should pull up... and hold vacuum.

Of course, while you have this all loose, you can stick a finger inside the turbo inlet and see if the shaft is all flopping around loose. I doubt it is, but it is certainly possible.

Let us know what you find.
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Old August 3rd, 2017, 09:46   #8
Dr. Greenthumb
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Oil levels are fine but I did end up with a little puddle of oil under turbo. I will check vacuum fittings, but all lines were replaced when camshaft was replaced. Bad vacuum can cause it to blow smoke? it's going to be easier to get at the vanes to see if there is wiggle.
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Old August 7th, 2017, 08:36   #9
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No oil in air filter
Oil draining intake near intercooler

Fault Codes
17978 - Engine start blocked by immobilizer.
P1570-000 Intermittent

16485 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0101-000 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

16683 - Boos Pressure Regulation
P0299-000 Control Range Not Reached

Any ideas?
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Old August 7th, 2017, 09:33   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Greenthumb View Post
...
Any ideas?
See above post(s).
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Old August 7th, 2017, 11:48   #11
Dr. Greenthumb
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I'm pretty sure this isn't a good thing


I did put vacuum on the VNT and it barely moved. Could it be jammed with debris? I don't think any turbo bits could make it past the intercooler.

The turbo lady has spoken
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Old August 7th, 2017, 12:08   #12
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Yep, that is a broken turbocharger!
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Old August 8th, 2017, 12:31   #13
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Ka-Bam!

Did you hear any noise? That must have made a heckuva racket when it let go.
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Old August 8th, 2017, 13:39   #14
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now you don't see that every day on these cars
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Old August 9th, 2017, 04:02   #15
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Nope, you sure don't!

I have a good used one if you want to go on the cheap. Customer upgraded to a bigger one, this one had about 120k miles on it and was working OK when I took it off.
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