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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old July 3rd, 2007, 18:50   #1
mrGutWrench
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Default Rebuild Resistor Packs????

__. In an earlier thread http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...ks%3F%3F%3F%3F Darren posts abour repairing the electriical components in the resistor pack on the heat/AC blower motor. Anybody have some detailed info on how to trace down the failed items and replacing them? Photos would be handy. Some of us have more than one burnt out resistor packs littering our garages.

__. It makes sense to just replace or repair them when they blow but when I did mine, it didn't last 5 minutes. At $50 a pop, that's an expensive lesson in "part replacing".

__. After I replaced the blower motor, I've had no more problems. And I'm guessing that the old motor (which wasn't a lot stiffer to turn than the replacement when out of the car) caused the thermal fuse in the resistor pack to burn out and all it needs is for that fuse to be replaced for my old packs to be reusable.
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Old July 3rd, 2007, 20:35   #2
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Not to hijack your thread, but I've got a similar problem with a resistor pack. Interesting to know that the failure might be related to the motor although the highest speed seems to work fine.

I've got the electronic Bentley manual and for the life of me I can't understand from the wiring diagrams why the A/C doesn't work on this highest speed. Works on the lower "speeds", but I've got to be going 70 to get any air through without the blower. I'be been completely unable to find a diagram that shows any connection between the blower switch and the A/C. Have you had any luck in this area?

Rick
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Old July 3rd, 2007, 21:39   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdtompki
Not to hijack your thread, but I've got a similar problem with a resistor pack. (snip)
__. Yes, you do. Those were exactly the symptoms on both my resistor pack failures. My problem was that the blower motor was dragging/drawing too much current and it burnt up two resistor packs (well, the first one was burnt out when I got the car but the first I put on went out in 5 minutes).

__. I was told that this often happens when the cabin air filter isn't changed. Mine weighed about 5 pounds when I took it out.

__. Hope that your car doesn't need a blower motor/fan. It's not hard to change but you have to take out the console to take out the glove box. There are detailed instructions with photos on VWVortex.

__. You're welcome to one of my burnt out resistor packs if you know how to rebuild them. Just pay for postage and it's yours.

__. D@mn fine design, VW. Let's put a "thermal overload" in a $50 part that blows out before the 15 cent fuse. Real good thinking!
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Old July 4th, 2007, 07:39   #4
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More than I was hoping to know! I've driven for 40+ years without a cabin air filter, much of that back East w/o air conditioning. Can't say I suffered much. Can't believe that the design wouldn't protect the motor. Since it sounds like quite a bit of trouble I may plan on a motor changeout. I may take you up on your resistor pack offer once I figure out what I'm doing. Pretty busy right now redoing a bathroom.
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Old July 4th, 2007, 09:29   #5
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Can you post a close picture of both sides on the Resistor pack? I've got a really good electornics background. Maybe we can come up with something? I dont see why you can't just heavy solder a couple lines, and 'Make' the fuse pop first
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Old July 4th, 2007, 13:53   #6
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Normally, the pack is bypassed on the highest speed settings. Hence that's the telling failure mode : only works at the highest speed.
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Old July 5th, 2007, 00:33   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrGutWrench
__. D@mn fine design, VW. Let's put a "thermal overload" in a $50 part that blows out before the 15 cent fuse. Real good thinking!
Perfectly normal thinking, TBH. The fan's running current will REDUCE if the cabin filter is blocked, but the lack of airflow means the resistor will overheat. Sure, they could do without the one-shot thermalfuse, but means that in the same circumstances the resistor wire will burn out. I for one don't want glowing bits of metal flying around the car. Possibility of fuego!

Easy to solder in a replacement one-shot; they're easy to get too, used in hairdryers, toaster etc...
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Old July 5th, 2007, 11:09   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPM
Perfectly normal thinking, TBH. The fan's running current will REDUCE if the cabin filter is blocked, but the lack of airflow means the resistor will overheat. Sure, they could do without the one-shot thermalfuse, but means that in the same circumstances the resistor wire will burn out. I for one don't want glowing bits of metal flying around the car. Possibility of fuego!

Easy to solder in a replacement one-shot; they're easy to get too, used in hairdryers, toaster etc...
Radio Shack has them. Probally will have to special order the correct temp rating thermofuse from their catalog, though. The blower motor thermofuse failed in the '85 Jetta once and I went this route to fix it. The original should have the temp. rating printed on it.

--Nate
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Old July 7th, 2007, 19:55   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syndicate
Can you post a close picture of both sides on the Resistor pack? I've got a really good electornics background. Maybe we can come up with something? I dont see why you can't just heavy solder a couple lines, and 'Make' the fuse pop first
__. OK, here's the resistor pack (inside view).



__. There is continuity between these points:

Point A --> (Nothing but point 1)

Point B --> Point C & Point D (and point 2)

Point C --> Point B & D (and point 2)

Point D --> Point B & C (and point 2)

No continuity between points 1 and 2.

__. Can anyone who knows something about electrons make any sense of this? Sorry, I don't know anything about a "good" part.
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Old July 7th, 2007, 20:02   #10
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__. Here is a photo of the connector of the resistor pack and also the outer view. This plate is the lower bulkhead for the blower motor housing. When the plate is removed, the blower motor will come right out with no other fixings holding it.



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Old July 7th, 2007, 20:23   #11
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Point A, Contact 1 (red square); should be the power. The resistor (blue square) between is what is probably going to need to be changed/upgraded. It seems that the power, must either be spiking (from a clogged filter or blower fan) and nuking the resistor or just thermal soaking, killing the cheap part.

We could either try to solder in a varible ohm resistor or the next step up. That should make the power pop the fuse and not the resistor.

Thoughts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrGutWrench
__. OK, here's the resistor pack (inside view).



__. There is continuity between these points:

Point A --> (Nothing but point 1)

Point B --> Point C & Point D (and point 2)

Point C --> Point B & D (and point 2)

Point D --> Point B & C (and point 2)

No continuity between points 1 and 2.

Last edited by Syndicate; July 7th, 2007 at 20:25. Reason: labeling
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Old July 8th, 2007, 01:55   #12
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The device linking 1 and 2 is the one-shot thermal fuse. It's blown, replace it. It's fusing temperature is printed on it...
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Old July 8th, 2007, 08:03   #13
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Yea, 1 to 2 is the thermo fuse. Get the degree rating off of it and order a replacement from Radio Shack and solder it in. Maybe even go to the next degree rating higher, if its near the rating of the original. That may prevent future blowing. Use your judgement.

The prupose of the thermal fuse is to prevent the blower motor from burning up if it stalls, like if a mouse builds a nest next to it, locking it up after it is turned on, or if something makes it past the cabin filter and stalls the motor. I guess therotecally, the motor stalled and on high without a thermo fuse could cause a car fire.

--Nate
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Old July 8th, 2007, 09:35   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PDJetta
Yea, 1 to 2 is the thermo fuse. Get the degree rating off of it and order a replacement from Radio Shack and solder it in. Maybe even go to the next degree rating higher, if its near the rating of the original. That may prevent future blowing. Use your judgement.

The prupose of the thermal fuse is to prevent the blower motor from burning up if it stalls, like if a mouse builds a nest next to it, locking it up after it is turned on, or if something makes it past the cabin filter and stalls the motor. I guess therotecally, the motor stalled and on high without a thermo fuse could cause a car fire.

--Nate
The current draw in such a situation should pop the fuse. Asuming its low enough. I dont know about the car fire part, its not drawing huge amounts of power.
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Old July 8th, 2007, 12:22   #15
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Indeed, a stalled fan would blow the fuse if the selector is on MAX. At lower speeds it's unlikely that the current would rise sufficiently, being dissipated by the resistor.
But low or zero airflow, plus that extra heating, might be enough to melt the heater ducting in the vacinity of the resistor...
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