Ready for some carnage?

Agreed. Frank will be able to tell you how to proceed.

Preparations A through G were a complete failure. But now ladies and gentlemen, we have... preparation H!



Haha! Jk, Jk.

But really, I just bit the bullet and picked up this complete engine to just drop in and go. Of course I've got to have some questions though.

First. What should I do to it while it's out? I'll be switching all my new timing belt stuff for sure. Maybe I'm paranoid but should I put a new rear main seal? It doesn't look like it's leaking but since it's out and accessible... What do you guys think? What else?

Next, the engine had a manual transmission and I've read there are some differences between the injection pumps and injectors. My main goal here is probably fuel mileage. Is there a benefit on which injection pump/injectors I use or should I just stick with what's already on the engine?

I'm also going to be servicing the auto trans while it's out. I've read I need to replace the EXACT amount of fluid the comes out of it. True? Any other tips on it? Is it basically the same as any other auto? Pull the pan, replace the filter and fill 'er up again?

I think that's all I have at the moment! Thanks peeps!

Your auto engine has a bigger IP, but smaller injectors.
I'd mix and match the manual injectors and auto IP.

Excellent. Thanks for the quick response. Will that net better mileage or about the same with a little more power?

Baxter'sTDI said:

Excellent. Thanks for the quick response. Will that net better mileage or about the same with a little more power?

Click to expand...

better mileage if you keep your foot out of it, more power when you find yourself with your foot to the floor trying to get out of the way of that dump truck.

Awesome. Thanks again.

Don't touch the rear main seal if it's not leaking. When you swap the timing parts over, make sure any one-time-use bolts get replaced. If you're looking to recoup some of the cost, keep in mind that the injection pump from your auto engine is probably worth a little more than the one from the manual engine. The power increase is nice, but any additional stress on the auto transmission is undesirable in my opinion. It's all about risks/benefits, so it's all up to you.

Hmm... Good points.

And more stretch bolts are in my shopping cart, just waiting to see what else I may need. Thanks Arne!

Change the oil and filter as soon as it's bolted in... Not trying to be a smart alec, but with your original post...

Just start off with nice fresh oil in this one. 'Work good, last long time'


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

this bores me...... need more pictures since i don't know how to read.......

Bailout said:

Change the oil and filter as soon as it's bolted in... Not trying to be a smart alec, but with your original post...

Just start off with nice fresh oil in this one. 'Work good, last long time'


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

I hear ya. I did quite a few things wrong with this poor car. Now with all the money I'm spending you better believe I'm going to try to do things right from here on out.

Preparation H

If you don't correct the timing belt tensioner and put the tab/keeper where it belongs, you'll be activating plan I sooner then later.

ninedee_golf_tdi said:

If you don't correct the timing belt tensioner and put the tab/keeper where it belongs, you'll be activating plan I sooner then later.

Click to expand...

i saw that too ninedee, i'm pretty sure all that's getting replaced anyway... it looks like a previous hack before OP purchased the engine

arne487 said:

Don't touch the rear main seal if it's not leaking. When you swap the timing parts over, make sure any one-time-use bolts get replaced. If you're looking to recoup some of the cost, keep in mind that the injection pump from your auto engine is probably worth a little more than the one from the manual engine. The power increase is nice, but any additional stress on the auto transmission is undesirable in my opinion. It's all about risks/benefits, so it's all up to you.

Click to expand...

change the rear seal
drop the oil pan and inspect for metal debris

ninedee_golf_tdi said:

If you don't correct the timing belt tensioner and put the tab/keeper where it belongs, you'll be activating plan I sooner then later.

Click to expand...

Good eye. I didn't notice until I removed it and it had me worried. It wasn't the only thing that had me worried either but so far everything is looking okay.

QuickTD said:

I read that you were considering re-using your timing components. Do not, under any circumstances, re-use a timing belt from an engine that has locked up no matter how new it is. The sudden shock breaks the cords in the belt and it will fail pretty quickly. I know this from experience.

Click to expand...

Dang, I bet your right. I already put the new belt on but the engine isn't in the car yet so it wouldn't be hard to change out. Probably be worth it.

if it was me I'd consider pulling the cam and taking a close look at the lifters for damage too.

maxmoo said:

if it was me I'd consider pulling the cam and taking a close look at the lifters for damage too.

Click to expand...

I did actually. Reason being, when I went to remove the harmonic balancer, with the cam plate already installed, the notch on the pulley didn't line up with the mark on the cover. Everything looked fine and I manually rotated the engine with the belt installed and didn't feel any resistance besides compression. I have a feeling it's off a tooth though and will know once I bolt up the trans.

My question is, did I do any damage rotating the engine manually with it being a tooth off? If it even is a tooth off, I guess.

I don't think you can damage the engine if rotating by hand.....unless you had a long bar attached and really leaned into the job. Did you feel it stop suddenly while rotating? It would take some effort to bend a valve but the compression offers pretty formidable resistance.

Few folks get away with cutting corners on these TDIs, be careful and if there is ANY doubt, take the 'high road' so you aren't broken down on the 'low road'!

Cool. And it didn't stop suddenly and I didn't have to crank it super hard. I'll double check it once I bolt up the trans.

New belt is on the way. I might have this thing back together by Christmas....

I still have one more picture of carnage I have to take to keep things interesting of the first engine I bought that dropped a valve. That one is pretty ugly.

Well I forgot to take a picture but the car is up and running. Has been since Saturday. I'm actually very happy with the way it's running right now. Coolant temperature doesn't get up to where it's supposed to be so I'll slap in a new T-stat and I lost one of the exhaust manifold washers so I hear a ticking I'm hoping it's an exhaust leak. New one is supposed to be here today. All in all it wasn't to bad.

And as promised, I have more carnage pictures. This is the head of the engine I was going to use for the short block. I guess the guy said the tensioner failed.

Under the valve cover.





Where's the valve you ask? Stuck in the piston of course.



Oh and by the way, apparently the complete engine I picked up and replace mine with was out of an automatic car. So if anybody is looking for an 11mm pump, it'll be listed in the classifieds here right directly.

should have left the 11mm pump there with your manual injectors

Mine's an auto as well or I would've!

I thought I had updated this thread but apparently not, so here it is.

Car is driving great. She's put about 1000 miles on it already and so far nothing major has happened. I reused the old exhaust manifold so I have a leak there but the new gasket is sitting in the garage waiting on me. Can't think of anything else to mention... I guess time will tell if all is well!

Well done! And I like that you kept up with a good attitude during your .....ahhhhh learning experience.....yeah that's it ....congrats on being back on the road!

csstevej said:

Well done! And I like that you kept up with a good attitude during your .....ahhhhh learning experience.....yeah that's it ....congrats on being back on the road!

Click to expand...

You, sir, are a breath of fresh air. Thanks for the kind words!

It looks like hydrolock to me. With hydrolock there may be no valve damage but the rod will either bend or break.

Well she put about 40k on it since this ordeal but decided she needed some excitement I guess. She went way too fast over a ditch on a dirt road, practically jumping it, and destroyed the oil pan. Now I could forgive if it were just that. However, she kept driving. I haven't asked many details yet because I don't want to get a divorce. I checked one rod and the bearing looked absolutely perfect. I've pulled two mains though and both look rough. Crank looked pretty rough too.

Not too sure what the plan is right now. I know what the right thing to do is but don't know if the car is worth it. Just had to vent somewhere.

Not to rain on your parade but the turbo also suffers quickly from no oil.
Have you thought about a used motor?

No worries, my parade got hit by Harvey.

I have thought about all of it. Just can't decide what's next..