BRM P0404 Code Help!

So I have a 2006 Jetta TDI DSG BRM engine code. Have been having a limp mode issue for awhile. I bought the car October 2016 it went into limp mode on the drive home, brought it to a VW dealer to get the codes read and was told could be a bad EGR valve. I ended up taking off the valve and cleaning really good and reinstalling was good all winter. Then the problem returned come spring. First I thought it was only happening when ambient temperatures reached above 20 degrees Celsius outside. It would go into limp mode over summer about a couple times a month and threw the P0404 code once during that time which I reset with my OBD tool. After some reading on here I decided it might need a MAF as well so I ordered a lightly used MAF and another lightly used EGR valve to install that was September 2017. Car ran ok until this week now limp mode almost every day and P0404 code pretty regularly. Last night I did some more trouble shooting by unplugging the EGR valve and it ran good with boost and no limp mode. So I plugged the EGR valve back in and unplugged the MAF and it also ran ok with the MAF unplugged. I plugged everything back in as it should be and car ran ok with no limp mode so I'm a bit lost. Thinking its either the MAF or the EGR but I have two of each now. Can't see all 4 items being bad........? But they were used parts so you never know. Thing is the EGR valve is expensive to just throw on and hope for the best.

Please Help!

You can verify both EGR and MAF function with a scan tool.

MAFs do not fail a lot on the BRM cars. EGR valves often do, you can open them up and look for soot/oil up the shaft into the pivot arm area.

You can also run the output test with the EGR loose and watch the valve move in and out, to see if it lands properly each time.

You could of course also have a bad engine harness, which is also very common on the BRMs.

oilhammer said:

You can verify both EGR and MAF function with a scan tool.

MAFs do not fail a lot on the BRM cars. EGR valves often do, you can open them up and look for soot/oil up the shaft into the pivot arm area.

You can also run the output test with the EGR loose and watch the valve move in and out, to see if it lands properly each time.

You could of course also have a bad engine harness, which is also very common on the BRMs.

Click to expand...

I do not have the vagcom cable so is there any other way to test the EGR? I took it out and cycled the key with it out and saw it open a small way then close again but that's the only test I know of with the cable.

You need a scan tool. Seriously, shotgunning parts, new or used, is a bad method of attempting to fix anything.

VCDS is CHEAP. A computer to run it is CHEAP.

If those two above items are too much for you, then you'll need to take it to someone and pay them for their investment in such tools, and for their knowledge. If you want to come here and try and get some pointers, of which you will pay nothing, you'll need to at least have some method of helping us help you, and a scan tool will do just that.

Sorry if I sound harsh, but posts like yours have gotten SO commonplace here lately that it gets old, and is why you see fewer and fewer people even offering to help. So frustrating. Get a scan tool.

oilhammer said:

You need a scan tool. Seriously, shotgunning parts, new or used, is a bad method of attempting to fix anything.

VCDS is CHEAP. A computer to run it is CHEAP.

If those two above items are too much for you, then you'll need to take it to someone and pay them for their investment in such tools, and for their knowledge. If you want to come here and try and get some pointers, of which you will pay nothing, you'll need to at least have some method of helping us help you, and a scan tool will do just that.

Sorry if I sound harsh, but posts like yours have gotten SO commonplace here lately that it gets old, and is why you see fewer and fewer people even offering to help. So frustrating. Get a scan tool.

Click to expand...

Planning on sourcing a scan tool. Just thought I could piece together symptoms and figure it out easily enough first. Pretty sure its related to the EGR valve as the POT that tells the ECU what position the valve is I forgot to open up an clean when I installed it.

Scan tool is a lot easier for sure because you can run the output tests and what not but just thought I'd ask first.

oilhammer said:

You need a scan tool. Seriously, shotgunning parts, new or used, is a bad method of attempting to fix anything.

VCDS is CHEAP. A computer to run it is CHEAP.

If those two above items are too much for you, then you'll need to take it to someone and pay them for their investment in such tools, and for their knowledge. If you want to come here and try and get some pointers, of which you will pay nothing, you'll need to at least have some method of helping us help you, and a scan tool will do just that.

Sorry if I sound harsh, but posts like yours have gotten SO commonplace here lately that it gets old, and is why you see fewer and fewer people even offering to help. So frustrating. Get a scan tool.

Click to expand...

Which Ross-Tech cable is the best?

Maybe this one, limited to 3 VINs $200. Best deal, better models include support for wireless devices, unlimited VINs, but have the same basic functions.

Yeah I am not the best person to ask 'which is best?', because I think when people are asking that what they are really wanting to say is 'which is cheapest, and will work on my car?'

I have the USB CAN+HEX, and I use it every day on all kinds of cars, so I obviously bucked up to get 'the best'. But that may not be what a DIYr actually needs.

oilhammer said:

Yeah I am not the best person to ask 'which is best?', because I think when people are asking that what they are really wanting to say is 'which is cheapest, and will work on my car?'

I have the USB CAN+HEX, and I use it every day on all kinds of cars, so I obviously bucked up to get 'the best'. But that may not be what a DIYr actually needs.

Click to expand...

Alright I have the cable now. These are my faults the EGR Senosr fault and MAF sensor fault are there I think because I unplugged both last week to troubleshoot. How do I run the output test on the EGR itself? In VCDS its giving me an error when I try the selective test.


Tuesday,24,October,2017,19:08:12:57996
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 7 x64
VCDS Version: 17.8.0.1 (x64)
Data version: 20170721 DS276.2
www.Ross-Tech.com

VIN: 3VWDT71K96M613125 License Plate:
Mileage: 153510km-95386mi Repair Order:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chassis Type: 1K (1K0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 42 44 46 52 56 62 72 7D
VIN: 3VWDT71K96M613125 Mileage: 153510km-95386miles
00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
02-Auto Trans -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: Malfunction 0010
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
7D-Aux. Heat -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-016-BEW.lbl
Part No SW: 03G 906 016 AC HW: 028 101 223 9
Component: R4 1,9L EDC G000DG 7329
Revision: --H01--- Serial number: VWZ7Z0E1724061
Coding: 0050078
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 64E95366A7B933660E-8030
3 Faults Found:
001027 - EGR Valve (N18)
P0403 - 000 - Malfunction - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 42
Reset counter: 255
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1428 /min
Speed: 43.0 km/h
Duty Cycle: 0.0 %
Voltage: 14.21 V
Mass Air / Rev.: 195.0 mg/str
Duty Cycle: 38.6 %
Bin. Bits: 00000000
001031 - EGR Sensor 2
P0407 - 000 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Lambda: -0.8 %
Mass Air / Rev.: 850.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 0.0 mg/str
Bin. Bits: 00000000
000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 000 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00110000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 945 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Duty Cycle: 100.6 %
Bin. Bits: 00101111
Mass Air / Rev.: 290.0 mg/str
Mass Air / Rev.: 0.0 mg/str
Readiness: 0 1 0 0 0
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 02E-927-770.clb
Part No SW: 02E 300 042 H HW: 02E 927 770 AD
Component: GSG DSG 041 0905
Revision: 04004010 Serial number: 00000502030622
Coding: 0000020
Shop #: WSC 44551 111 44551
VCID: 181137962B71278652-804C
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1K0-907-379-MK60-F.lbl
Part No: 1K0 907 379 K
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0104
Coding: 0021122
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3A55CD1E75BD159684-806E
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 1K0-820-047.lbl
Part No: 1K0 820 047 EG
Component: Climatic PQ35 084 0404
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 6DFF36427473722E51-8038
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels:. 3C0-937-049-23-M.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 937 049 M HW: 1K0 937 049 M*
Component: Bordnetz-SG H34 0803
Revision: 00H34000 Serial number: 00000000055192
Coding: 14098E02400418000014000000140000000073035C
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 3957D21270BB1E8E8D-806C
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K1 955 119 B Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer VW350 012 0401
Coding: 00065493
Shop #: WSC 00000
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 1K0-909-605.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 909 605 E HW: 1K0 909 605 E
Component: 1S AIRBAG VW8R 024 6300
Revision: 03024000 Serial number: 0037KD01LC7+
Coding: 0012627
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 2E7DF14EB9F5C93628-807A
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K0 959 339 B
Component: BF-Gewichtsens. 006 0003
Subsystem 2 - Serial number: 6332MSME090922160
Subsystem 3 - Serial number: 6342MSME0849253EH
Subsystem 4 - Serial number: 6351HSME06454F4CH
Subsystem 5 - Serial number: 6361HSME06484053+
Subsystem 6 - Serial number: 63727SME06375331V
Subsystem 7 - Serial number: 63827SME0638036F2
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 1K0-953-549-MY8.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 953 549 AB HW: 1K0 953 549 AB
Component: J0527 010 0045
Coding: 0010021
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 72C5253E6D4DADD68C-8026
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1K0-920-xxx-17.lbl
Part No: 1K0 920 851 K
Component: KOMBIINSTRUMENT 3HL 0720
Coding: 0023303
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3041EF36A3C1DFC63A-8064
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels:. 1K0-907-530-V1.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 E HW: 1K0 907 951
Component: Gateway H09 0110
Revision: 09 Serial number: 27001051240696
Coding: 3F3F0B40071002
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 29770252801BAE0EFD-807C
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 1K0-920-xxx-25.clb
Part No: 1K0 920 851 K
Component: IMMO 3HL 0720
Shop #: WSC 46733 001 1048576
VCID: 3041EF36A3C1DFC63A-8064
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 1K0-959-701-MIN2.lbl
Part No: 1K0 959 701 K
Component: Tuer-SG 024 2339
Coding: 0001269
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 364DD92E41A5F1F660-8062
1 Fault Found:
00932 - Electric Window Motor; Drivers Side (V147)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1Kx-909-144-G2V2.clb
Part No: 1K1 909 144 H
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl.3 1502
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 3041EF36A3C1DFC63A-8064
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels:. 1K0-959-433-MIN.clb
Part No: 1K0 959 433 AM
Component: KSG 0401
Coding: 137803281B09050F880F049051A0
Shop #: WSC 46733 001 1048576
VCID: 7BDB081A3A07EC9EDF-802E
Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K0 951 605 C
Component: LIN BACKUP HORN H02 1301
Subsystem 2 - Component: NGS n.mounted
Subsystem 3 - Component: IRUE n.mounted
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. Labels: 1K0-959-702-MIN2.lbl
Part No: 1K0 959 702 K
Component: Tuer-SG 024 2339
Coding: 0001269
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3753D42A46AF08FE7B-8062
1 Fault Found:
00110 - Right Mirror Turn Signal Lamp (L132)
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 1K0-035-161.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 035 161 HW: 1K0 035 161
Component: Radio DE2 009 0012
Revision: 00009000 Serial number: VWZ4Z7E6013782
Coding: 0040400
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 5C996B869FC90BA6B6-8008
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 62: Door, Rear Left Labels: 1K0-959-703-GEN2.lbl
Part No: 1K0 959 703 D
Component: Tuer-SG 021 2416
Coding: 0000144
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3147EA32A8CBD6CE35-8064
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 72: Door, Rear Right Labels: 1K0-959-704-GEN2.lbl
Part No: 1K0 959 704 D
Component: Tuer-SG 021 2416
Coding: 0000144
Shop #: WSC 00066 000 00000
VCID: 3245E53EADCDEDD64C-8066
No fault code found.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 7D: Aux. Heat Labels: 1K0-963-235.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 963 235 E HW: 1K0 963 235 E
Component: PTC-Element 0404
Revision: 00800000 Serial number:
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2D7FF642B4F3B22E11-8078
No fault code found.
End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 01:14)--------------------------

At idle on the measuring blocks the MAF is as so 415mg/str 938ap 980bp 0 acel
EGR is as so 840 rpm 255mg/str spec 420mg/str actual 100% duty cycle.

So obviously EGR related? Why would it go to 100% duty cycle idle?

Unplugging EGR has not affect on duty cycle measurement, does it default to 100%. Could it be a broken harness wire?

Generic OBD2:
https://www.engine-codes.com/p0404_volkswagen.html

Read by VCDS:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16787/P0403/001027
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16791/P0407/001031
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16486/P0102/000258

What message do you get when you try to run the EGR output test? IDKFS but I would suspect that the P0407 fault may be preventing the EGR output test to run.

VCDS or any scanner does not tell you what is wrong with your car. It only tells you what the ECU sees. Without a good working knowledge of the system you are trying to diagnose, VCDS is nothing more than a "Gee Wizz" toy.

May I suggest a proper maintenance manual with wiring diagrams? Haynes and Chilton's are almost worthless.

Ol'Rattler said:

Generic OBD2:
https://www.engine-codes.com/p0404_volkswagen.html

Read by VCDS:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16787/P0403/001027
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16791/P0407/001031
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16486/P0102/000258

What message do you get when you try to run the EGR output test? IDKFS but I would suspect that the P0407 fault may be preventing the EGR output test to run.

VCDS or any scanner does not tell you what is wrong with your car. It only tells you what the ECU sees. Without a good working knowledge of the system you are trying to diagnose, VCDS is nothing more than a "Gee Wizz" toy.

May I suggest a proper maintenance manual with wiring diagrams? Haynes and Chilton's are almost worthless.

Click to expand...

I understand the egr system well enough. I got the output test working after all in sequential test mode. But it’s useless unless you actually pull the egr out of the housing and observe it. I’m just wondering when the egr valves usually fail do they default to 100% duty cycle? Because what I originally perceived as limp mode is looks like is actually the egr pinning open under all conditions and obviously stealing power. I also took my valve cover off to inspect my cam last night and that seemed to cure the egr problem for a short while so either that was a fluke or there might be a broken wire in the main harness that runs behind the valve cover.

Can anyone tell me how the egr normally failed position is? I will run the output test again tonight with the egr out and observe but when I put this egr valve in the stepper motor worked on just 12v open fully and returning to full closed so might be the position sensor circuit possibly?

The G212 EGR position potentiometer and the N18 vacuum regulator solenoid valve are shown in the wiring diagram as part of the Digital controller on the EGR valve.

Since it is electronic you should be able to monitor the G212's movement in measuring blocks with VCDS. There are 5 wires total on the plug and the 2 biggest wires are probably muscle for the solenoid valve (Green and Brown/Violet). I would be kinda Leary about putting power to those to check the solenoid because you might fry the controller.

IDK what the default fail position for the EGR valve is, but my best guess would be the same position it is in with the plug pulled.

A lot of folk are completely lost about what a scanner (VCDS) does and I usually explain it up front to avoid confusion later so don't sweat it. Think of it as as PSA.

Ol'Rattler said:

The G212 EGR position potentiometer and the N18 vacuum regulator solenoid valve are shown in the wiring diagram as part of the Digital controller on the EGR valve.

Since it is electronic you should be able to monitor the G212's movement in measuring blocks with VCDS. There are 5 wires total on the plug and the 2 biggest wires are probably muscle for the solenoid valve (Green and Brown/Violet). I would be kinda Leary about putting power to those to check the solenoid because you might fry the controller.

IDK what the default fail position for the EGR valve is, but my best guess would be the same position it is in with the plug pulled.

A lot of folk are completely lost about what a scanner (VCDS) does and I usually explain it up front to avoid confusion later so don't sweat it. Think of it as as PSA.

Click to expand...

Wih running the output test you can monitor the egr position sensor feed back. Last night I cleaned the sensor and valve again and ran the output test and I couldn’t get it to fault. Installed in the car and monitered in the graph and everything seemed to track good even the maf compared to egr actual. Girl friend started the car and let it idle this morning for about 20min before going to work and car was in “limp” mode again as soon as she pulled out of the driveway. Is it possible something in the valve just binds up when the heat from idling gets in there? I’m out of ideas. I think it’s time to just throw a brand new valve in there.

I did find this: https://sites.google.com/site/1810martin/vcds-and-pd-tdi-engine-health-check which might help confirm the diagnosis. There is a correlation between the MAF and the EGR which might be an important part of the puzzle.

Did you compare the G212 position sensor "feedback" before and after the engine went into "limp mode"? Have you examined the wiring for issues? Can you dissemble the EGR enough to clean the wiper and carbon track inside the G212 with this: http://www.guitarcenter.com/CAIG/De...act-Cleaner-Rejuvenator-5-oz-1274115056546.gc ? The product is great for bringing potentiometers, which the G212 is, back from the dead.

The fact you did get the engine to run right for a little while might be a useful clue. It could mean that just unplugging and moving the wire harness out of the way flexed the wires and caused a chaffed wire to have a good connection for at least a little while.

Go ahead and just replace the EGR valve? Without confirmation, that might fix the problem or might not.

Ol'Rattler said:

I did find this: https://sites.google.com/site/1810martin/vcds-and-pd-tdi-engine-health-check which might help confirm the diagnosis. There is a correlation between the MAF and the EGR which might be an important part of the puzzle.

Did you compare the G212 position sensor "feedback" before and after the engine went into "limp mode"? Have you examined the wiring for issues? Can you dissemble the EGR enough to clean the wiper and carbon track inside the G212 with this:http://www.guitarcenter.com/CAIG/DeoxIT-D5S-6-Spray-Contact-Cleaner-Rejuvenator-5-oz-1274115056546.gc?cntry=us&source=4WWRWXGP&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8Z69pu2O1wIVjG5-Ch0_8gUuEAQYASABEgK7k_D_BwE&kwid=productads-adid^172488555108-device^c-plaid^137769558522-sku^1274115056546@ADL4GC-adType^PLA ? The product is great for bringing potentiometers, which the G212 is, back from the dead.

The fact you did get the engine to run right for a little while might be a useful clue. It could mean that just unplugging and moving the wire harness out of the way flexed the wires and caused a chaffed wire to have a good connection for at least a little while.

Go ahead and just replace the EGR valve? Without confirmation, that might fix the problem or might not.

Click to expand...

I was able to spray inside the POT to clean it and the feedback from the POT tracked fairly well to what the ECU was telling the valve to do. That article seems backwards from what I have seen on the output tests for my EGR high duty cycle numbers seem to be more EGR open where as low numbers mean closed on my engine when I run the output test at least....that's odd to me.

It ran normally for a good 30 min drive. This problem seems to really manifest itself from sitting and idling for extended periods it will go into limp mode. A simple ignition key off and on again will clear it.....why does it clear so easily. I have a hard time believing its wiring at this point as everytime I run the output the valve acts normally outside when just sitting outside the car.

I did check the wiring loom about 6" from the valve pas the connector and all looks good. I don't want to un ravel an entire harness chasing a ghost, I'm leaning towards a valve motor issue it seems like to me.

Nohlan_4 said:

I was able to spray inside the POT to clean it and the feedback from the POT tracked fairly well to what the ECU was telling the valve to do.
What did you use to clean the pot? Was it this stuff http://www.guitarcenter.com/CAIG/De...act-Cleaner-Rejuvenator-5-oz-1274115056546.gc or electrical contact cleaner from the auto parts store? The DeoxIt D5 might actually do some good were the parts house stuff is usually just a solvent that is safe for plastic.

This problem seems to really manifest itself from sitting and idling for extended periods it will go into limp mode.
Why do you idle the engine for extended periods of time? It is not good on the engine and really a Diesel doesn't warm up very fast if there is no load on the engine. What you should do is start the engine, clear the windows if there is ice and then drive moderately until the engine is warm.

I did check the wiring loom about 6" from the valve pas the connector and all looks good. I don't want to un ravel an entire harness chasing a ghost, I'm leaning towards a valve motor issue it seems like to me.

Click to expand...

Chasing a ghost? Well If wiring is the issue you will still be chasing that ghost after you replace the valve. Do you know someone with the same engine as you that would let you use their EGR long enough to rule out the wiring and to verify your valve is malfunctioning? Of course that might not be very practical and there is a good chance replacing the valve will fix the problem.

Ol'Rattler said:

Chasing a ghost? Well If wiring is the issue you will still be chasing that ghost after you replace the valve. Do you know someone with the same engine as you that would let you use their EGR long enough to rule out the wiring and to verify your valve is malfunctioning? Of course that might not be very practical and there is a good chance replacing the valve will fix the problem.

Click to expand...

I cleaned up and reverted back to the original valve that was in the car and now I have only gotten the EGR error code once in a week. Where before it was happening everyday at least once. Thinking I have 2 valves that are on there way out, my own fault for buying used parts to begin with. Will look at getting a new replacement as that seems the likely cause. Wiring just doesn't go good again for a week after I swap one part.

Did you get some of the DeOxit 5? Seriously good stuff. I first heard about it about 15 or 20 years ago and tried it on an old Japanese transistor radio that was heading for the trash because the volume pot was either full on or full off with nothing but scratchy sounds when you turned it. The DeOxit made the volume pot work like new.

For a specialized chemical, everyone should have it on the shelf. It is not cheap but a can will last a long time because you only use it for pots, contacts and the metal male/female pins inside connectors.

Sales pitch off. Substitution can be a very valuable troubleshooting technique and it did certainly rule out wiring. So most likely a new EGR valve is in your future unless you can rejuvenate the pot on one of the EGR valves you have.