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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old December 10th, 2017, 13:07   #1
iluvmydiesels
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: phila area
TDI(s): AHU
Fuel Economy: mk2's about 48mpg, mk3 ~43mpg thats @(near)80mph(-/+).
Default need more heat (in motor).

since i ve got my mk3 back running, i ve had lack of heat, both normal max heat in engine, and a slow warm-up. in the cooler weather the warm-up is slower. it takes a while just to get heat in motor, and its not really that cold out yet. over the summer (i had posted) i put a new thermostat in. 87dg C. in the warmer weather temp got to near 170dg. on dash gauge, mine normally seems to work fine. now in above freezing temps the gauge is low. about 160dg.
so i have a change out of coolant hoses scheduled, hopefully i can get to it this week. i have a 90dg C thermostat im going to stick in, at the same time. the only other thing i can really do is run my hose and let water run thru-open system. i figure its related to 'cheaper' head i ended up putting in. i donno i bought head for $1300, some generic valves i ended up with, era brand.?pos by me, im kind of upset i got head in the 1st place. plan to assemble a stock head with trw valves and parts in the near future. may keep cam? good idea?
im not really expecting too faster warm-ups, but it would be a big-+.

i had some other issue, oh yea i good question, cause i, like i have made known, blocked off my egr, is there a specialist that can program/tune ECM for this? my main problem, along with an annoying cel, is my turbo speed, and thereby intake pressure is ---noticeably more.

is there info on doing some of your own port(head) work? i hav-ta look. i have a ger head, gonna send to the shop, machine seats, and set-up for better results. <than what i put on, now.
and then i still have to try to get the vent doors patch-up done. i had stripped the lower dash to the knee bar, metal piece in there. i wasnt sure at looking i can get it out, as it goes fully just about the width of the dash, and dash hangs over where center console piece attaches. going to try, this week, next week. get that fixed up.
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Old December 10th, 2017, 13:56   #2
Mongler98
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1st off. dont ever put normal tap water into the system. EVER>
Watch thishttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s--5ft5YiHg

1st step is to make sure your coolant system is in good shape like in this video.
EGR does help with heat but not durring running, only starting
the oil heater is what does the majority of the head exchange.

My tdi and everyone elses never gets up to temp in the winter unless your going up hill or on a highway.
A good way to help this is to get a plastic bandit road sign and slip it in front of the radiator in the winter and use pipe wrap insulation on the front grille and bumper. There is a post here about that.

You spent 1300 on a head? ive spent $500 on mine with lots of head work.
You can port and polish yourself with about $75-$100 in tools.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iejDWSQEsqI
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Old December 11th, 2017, 07:51   #3
iluvmydiesels
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pretty good video,advice. my system doesnt seem to have any contaminants, been running the same, new coolant for most of the year, no discoloration. just low/slow heat. gonna drain and filter, reuse coolant i have. i just didnt like the idea of flushing his system, in video, and having removed thermo, like he did. it ll give more water flow, but i feel system and esp the heater core will clean/flush much better in a normal, hot system. i dont really put as much faith in a cool flush, and the weather for him was cold. even in warm temps w/o a thermo a motor can have trouble heating up. also needed a gasket when he took apart the water connection. and some anti-seize, for those bolts!. would look better .
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Old December 11th, 2017, 09:59   #4
Mongler98
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You don’t need to pull the t-stat as he stated in the video, it just speeds it up. If your coolant is in good shape, don’t bother.
You need to get a REAL gauge for your coolant. Scangauge II is good and will tell you EVERYTING that the ECU gets. The gauge on your car is a general gauge. VW did not put in an accurate gauge on TDI's because they would be fluctuating so much people would panic. It’s in the middle if the temp is warm or too hot. It only moves past the middle if it’s overheating. You can change this somehow I have heard but I like to have REAL gauges, Auber is the best there is bar none. You need accurate data before going down this road.

Another thought is that your blend door is probably shot to hell. VW use this foam that turns to dust to seal things. Your blend door has holes in it and when the foam goes away its basically useless. Does your air temp improve when you put it on Recirculate?

I would bet your issue is not with the cooling system but rather your cars HVAC duct system. A dashectomy would be in order. When you’re in there, replace the heater core with ALL ALUMINUM one and you’re going to have to fudge it to get it in I hear. They are better than the plastic cores. Replace the fan motor with OE and get some really good HVAC Duct flashing tape and seal everything up and you can use a weather seal strip on the blend door area to make a nice seal.
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Old December 11th, 2017, 10:46   #5
iluvmydiesels
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Location: phila area
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Fuel Economy: mk2's about 48mpg, mk3 ~43mpg thats @(near)80mph(-/+).
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im well and aware of vw putting out all types of cars for a very long time that need the vent/blend doors patched. i have one planned, i ve done it one MK2s, a couple. its just the mk3s are more complex to get to and the vent box doesnt just open right near your lap, and you can lean over with a light and get to both. i have contributions to the vent fix sticky.
its not that. i can understand your gauge trusts. all the VWs i ve had all my gauges have been "accurate", steady in the center all but one and this one. the other one i know what happened. it now runs like that, if i put her back on the road. this one i cannt see any other reason, off the top, why its cool. as i got it running again, all summer, and now its some cooler, 160 on the gauge is low. it, before, was always in the middle, that was sometime -, and work-ago.
going to find a water pump and take a look at the one in there. gotta find a metal one, a lot of plastic ones are turning up. :thumbsdown:.
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Old December 11th, 2017, 11:33   #6
Mongler98
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german auto parets.com has the metal one.
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Old December 11th, 2017, 17:49   #7
Abacus
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So does IDParts.com and CascadeGerman.com.

I like the Geba one over the Graf personally.

Geba on the left, Graf on the right.



And I installed a 95 degree thermostat (203 degree F) in W386's wagon with great results. It usually runs about 10 degrees higher than other TDI's I work on with no ill effects.
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Old December 15th, 2017, 05:17   #8
iluvmydiesels
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Join Date: Nov 2015
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Fuel Economy: mk2's about 48mpg, mk3 ~43mpg thats @(near)80mph(-/+).
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thanks for the help guys. as it is PP assured me theirs is a 'metal' pump. and still a good price. the thermo i was able to get is 90dg C, so its close to what should work. have to see if i can get to it, before the weather stays cold. pc happens to be down, so i dont have vcds, so pulling belt off wont happen until,,,. oh well its the breaks sometimes.

one question i had from the first post. my egr block off, and seeming to have more turbo. is it going to need an adjustment. ecm tune? who-where can i get someone?
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Old December 16th, 2017, 05:57   #9
ToddA1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abacus View Post
And I installed a 95 degree thermostat (203 degree F) in W386's wagon with great results. It usually runs about 10 degrees higher than other TDI's I work on with no ill effects.
Mark, how long has he been running that stat? Do you have a part number?


Quote:
Originally Posted by iluvmydiesels View Post
one question i had from the first post. my egr block off, and seeming to have more turbo. is it going to need an adjustment. ecm tune? who-where can i get someone?
Any tuner should be able to do an EGR delete, but Id personally keep the EGR and get a tune with Dynamic EGR. I believe this was a Malone feature, unless others are now doing it.

-Todd
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Old December 16th, 2017, 07:54   #10
Abacus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
Mark, how long has he been running that stat? Do you have a part number?

-Todd
I changed the thermostat on 6/22/13 (about 4.5 years ago) and it's still doing great. W386 (my father) says the heat is excellent.
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'96 B4V: 356,000 miles Malone 2+, PP520's, 6 speed, 02J short shifter, E-Codes, G60 brakes, Evo plate, DMF, stainless exhaust, heated leathers, cold weather package
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Old December 16th, 2017, 09:00   #11
ToddA1
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I looked up that part number and I’m guessing it’s a Napa part... THM238.

The info I’m seeing online says 195. Interchange numbers include 33209, 13379 and they also show 195.

I checked out a Stant 45379, I had on the shelf and it states 195/90. I’m wondering if there’s some type of deadband built into these things.

Does your dad’s temperature gauge read differently than yours? I noticed a difference in gauge reading when I went from the stock 87 to the 90 43579. I wouldn’t mind a few extra degrees, in free heat.

-Todd
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Old December 16th, 2017, 09:10   #12
Abacus
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The gauge on the cluster reads normally, but we both have Scangauges, which read real time temperature. It's odd to get into his car after driving mine for so long and see his a consistent 10 degrees higher than mine. I initially think there is a problem but then remember which car I'm driving. I did not see any appreciable benefits to the higher thermostat though, no mileage increase or anything like that. But, there also have been no detriments to it either.
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'96 B4V: 356,000 miles Malone 2+, PP520's, 6 speed, 02J short shifter, E-Codes, G60 brakes, Evo plate, DMF, stainless exhaust, heated leathers, cold weather package
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