Clutch not fully disengaging

I have noticed the Jetta getting a bit harder shifting. Did the synchromesh oil change after reading here. No change. Now I notice that sometimes with the clutch pushed to the floor it is very hard to change gears even though stopped, like the clutch is still engaged.

Not sure what to make of this, maybe I haven’t searched the right terms.

I must admit this is the original clutch, 240k, but doesn’t slip. I have read about some aftermarket clutch replacements but not sure which one is preferred or if that is the problem.

Don’t want to be driving the truck everyday, but starting to worry about something coming apart.

Thanks,
Bill

Sounds like your clutch is fine, that there's an issue with the pedal. I'd start by trying to flush the brake fluid for the clutch pedal, see if that helps at all.
Like I said, clutch sounds OK, but if you feel like changing it I would not suggest the Valeo clutch. I'd recommend the G60 smf swap and maybe the vr6 clutch disc and pressure plate.

Wow, I feel really stupid, didn’t realize about the hydraulic clutch. Is there a how to here about changing clutch fluid? I am going to look for the lines and reservoir.

Fluid should be changed every 2 years, but that's probably not the problem.

More likely the clutch lever is worn out at the pivot. Transmission needs to come out to fix that, you'll probably want to install a new clutch while it's apart.

Simon

Someone here offer the whole clutch package?

I did bleed it just now.

Several vendors do.
Idparts.com
Kermatdi.com
Im sure there's more, that's just off the top of my head.

So I fully bled the hydraulic clutch, it feels a bit different but still getting a slight grind shifting into 3rd at higher rpm. Haven’t driven far enough to see if the other problems remain such as not disengaging while stopped. Car shifted effortlessly 3 months ago.

Looks like the complete clutch kit is 350. I don’t have the time to undertake this one. I am going to look for someone near me or at least sort of to do this that has experience. My regular shop does not have tdi experience.

How much do you think an install will run? Will 500 cover it?

This may be a bit of a risk since if it doesn’t work then the tranny has to come apart.
Thanks,
Bill

Nothing TDI specific about clutch replacement, it's the same job as a on a gasser. Expect to pay for 6-7 hours labor. Be sure to change the fork while you are in there, it's probably the problem.

https://www.idparts.com/clutch-release-lever-a3b4a4a5-brm-p-1461.html

Fork, pivot bushing, and keeper spring. Just did the clutch on my car yesterday, took about 8 hours overall. Probably would have been faster if I didn't change my flywheel to a heavier one. Also make sure the stretch bolts for the trans mount and dogbone mount are replaced.

The way I test for a clutch not fully disengaging is with the motor running push the clutch in to the floor, pause a second or two and put it in reverse. It should go in smooth with no grinding. This is after we verify there isn't a stack of floor mats in the way of the pedal. If you're changing the clutch I would definitely go with a solid flywheel instead of the DMF.

Based on metal mans criteria, clutch must not be fully disengaging. I get grinding with that test. It feels like it has been getting closer to the floor for disengagement but evidently not fully disengaged.

No great shops near me. Might have to take it to Richmond or Winston Salem.

How hard is it to just put the fork in?

Requires pulling the transmission all the way out.

This can also happen when the DMF starts to go bad. If the trans comes out, make sure it's all changed when it goes back together- DMF, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, fork, and pivot. I would also do the rear main seal and the transmission input shaft seal while I was in there...

-Rich

I've had both bad DMF and a cracked throwout "arm"/fork do that. On the car with the DMF, pumping the clutch pedal let it engage 1st without a big clunk. Surprisingly, the last car I did had a bad DMF and a sheared off pivot ball poking through the arm and it still shifted just fine!

Clutch was finished today. She shifts like a dream now. The old flywheel was loose between sections and had something moving around inside, a rattle. The sections could be moved, and did move, such that getting the bolts out was interesting. The actuator fork and clutch disk still looked decent. One finger was busted.

I used the quiet clutch kit from idparts. Did the main oil seal.


Thanks everybody. It is much smoother, no pulsations, shifts really easy.



I think I am going to buy some sort of vag com, probably just a kII usb. I still think my timing is off. Lost some mileage after the timing belt change, almost 5mpg.


After that is sorted, maybe some nozzles dlc1019s I think.
I was thinking about a lease end bmw diesel, but with the egr problems, finding one is hard until parts are available, and with a new clutch, not such a big deal.



Anyway, thanks to everyone.

Be careful with how much you put into your performance mods with that clutch. Did DLC520's on my car pre tune, and my quiet clutch barely handled it.

It should go to stage 2.
Thanks for posting back solution!

I don’t think I will do anything heavy. This is my commuter car and I drive a lot on narrow roads. I hope to do injectors and maybe a tune but the car does fine as it is.

The clutch feels lighter as well. Not sure how it can feel different since it is hydraulicly actuated.

Spring pressure is different between the smf and the DMF. I know my pedal effort went way up after putting my sb endue3 in my car. Doesn't bother me none, but when I get in my dad's car I accidentally slam the floor with the clutch cause I'm not used to it anumore.