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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014)

VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014) Discussions area for A6/MkVI (2010-2014) Golf and Golf Wagons (Jetta Sportwagon in the USA).

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Old December 18th, 2014, 19:14   #61
frugality
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
At 221,000 miles I expect some parts to need replacement, however that does not excuse poor design of parts at wear points being designed to hold up properly. This is a stop and should be pretty simple. I guess tat plastic has a good percentage chance of making it through the warranty period and then the owner can jus buy a new manifold and pay the dealer to replace it.
I bought the car for long term reliability and paid a premium for it. As is said sometimes you get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get.
In this case I am paying $65 plus freight for what VW should have designed to not need in the first place.
Along with RCV valves, VNT actuators, DPFs , 2 Micron filters, and roof drain tubes etc.
I am just glad that DieselGeek has found the solution and I can get it for only $65 and freight vs. a new manifold and labor. All in all a good deal, but should not be necessary.
I work in automotive engineering. If you knew how the automotive development process worked (or rather, often fails to work), you'd understand!
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Old December 19th, 2014, 12:00   #62
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Originally Posted by frugality View Post
I work in automotive engineering. If you knew how the automotive development process worked (or rather, often fails to work), you'd understand!
I have been involved with R&D of one kind or another for 45 years and I do understand.
Of the the most important thing is the D since this is how things become reliable and more robust.
The R part creates new vistas of failure and more D to come.
It would be nice if manufacturers spent more effort on R (repairabillity ).
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Old December 19th, 2014, 17:22   #63
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Originally Posted by runonbeer View Post
I just installed one of these fix brackets on a 2011 Jetta with 126K. It took 8 minutes including before and after MB121 readings.
Before I installed the part, mb121.4 was 0.456V
After is now 0.760V
These Voltages correspond to the motor's position when flaps are open. Jim and I measured a brand new manifold from VW. Guess what? 0.760V.
As the stop on the flap rail wears, the motor arm is allowed to move farther and farther back. The voltage signal gets lower and lower until it reaches 0.304V and a fault is set. As far as I can tell this number changes in discrete decrements of ~0.076V as the flap stops wear down.
Jim's fix bracket butts up to the motor arm and stops it from physically being able to move any farther than a position corresponding to 0.760V. It will never get any lower than that.
Just read mine, 0.608 Volts on the original part. No codes. My replacement part is sitting 2800 miles away on the east coast. Was hoping it would arrive before I drove out to SoCal but the US postal service tool their good old time delivering it 3 days late. Would have loved to install it before the trip back to east coast next month, to see if effects my fuel mileage. Over the last 10-12 months, mine has really taken a hit.
Address 01: Engine (03L 906 019 CL)
14:50:33 Group 121
-3.2 % Lambda
4.7 % Lambda
00000100 Bin. Bits
0.608 V Voltage
Friday,19,December,2014,15:06:07:27850
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 14.10.0.0 (x64)
Data version: 20141022
VIN: WVWNM9AJ0AW292558 License Plate: 3LOG
Mileage: 81714 Repair Order:
After install next month, I'll report back on the measured voltage.

4 Feb 2015,

Finally installed by removing the motor, as Jim recommends. I have the 1st version. No issues. Watch his video. Came in handy when reinstalling the spring correctly. Also, has a good recommendation to slightly crimp the end of the spring so it remains on the motor arm.

Read voltage after starting and reads exactly 0.760 volts, as expected! The other values are. Slightly different than the before values.
-2.4 % Lambda
0.8 % Lambda
01000101 Bin. Bits
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Last edited by bobt2382; February 5th, 2015 at 13:52. Reason: Installed
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Old December 20th, 2014, 11:55   #64
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Originally Posted by corrado tdi View Post
This shows what you should see if you have installed the P2015 fix bracket correctly. If you hold a flashlight over the V157 motor and look in between the V157's top two T30 Torx screws from the front of the car you will see that the P2015 repair bracket is hooked onto the motor casting:

Jim,

This picture does not make sense - it looks like the bracket is installed in a horizontal manner. I followed the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RydbMUdeWlE
and my bracket is vertical with the straight edge facing down.
In this picture, I see the bracket above the motor.
Am I missing something here?
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Old December 21st, 2014, 09:34   #65
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Look closely at your installation. What you see in the pic is only the very small square "hook" on the part. It's at the opposite end of the part from where the screw for the retaining plate enters. It would be nice if that image were a gif that would loop a zoom out of where we are looking in order to gain perspective but I took that with my phone so I had to be right up in there.
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Old December 21st, 2014, 13:42   #66
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I got my part and installed it Sunday afternoon.
I had a problem fitting it since I had to basically reach further back to hook the thing around the back to line it up.
I had to get into place and then install the bottom T30 torx screw.
The other way around I could not get the bracket to line up properly.
I also bent a piece if coat hanger to pull the arm forward to get everything in place.
This seems to have fixed my problem, but I haven't bothered to check it out with my VCDS yet.

Thanks for the fix.

JDB
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Old December 21st, 2014, 14:29   #67
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Just ordered one for my wife 2010 golf. Been chasings a mpg issue for months and took advice of a users on the forum and unplugged flap motor and. Of is back up where it should be. Checked voltages today and there way down to where it should be, this thread has been really informative!
Thank you
Will report on how it goes
Jamie
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Old December 22nd, 2014, 07:31   #68
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I just ordered the flapper valve fix from Diesel Geek. I have the P2015 MIL code and voltage is 0.304v.
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Old December 22nd, 2014, 07:56   #69
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My V157 motor lever seems to stay towards the back of the car. I can use a screwdriver to push it forward, but it goes back as soon as I let go.
Does it matter which position it is in when installing the P2015 fix? I installed the fix with the lever towards the back. I am still getting the P2015 code.
Should I re-install while forcing the lever to the front?
Or do I need to replace the V157 at this point?
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Old December 22nd, 2014, 08:47   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilyago View Post
My V157 motor lever seems to stay towards the back of the car. I can use a screwdriver to push it forward, but it goes back as soon as I let go.
Does it matter which position it is in when installing the P2015 fix? I installed the fix with the lever towards the back. I am still getting the P2015 code.
Should I re-install while forcing the lever to the front?
Or do I need to replace the V157 at this point?
Probably goes without saying but you have to run the motor to make the arm come forward.
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Old December 22nd, 2014, 13:47   #71
ilyago
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I can't install it with the engine running. Since I can't see where the bracket is going, is it actually catching the lever when I install it even if the lever is in the rear position, or do I have to take the bracket out, pull and hold the lever forward, then re-install?
I had my son turn the ignition on and off a few times, but I have not seen the lever move. Does that mean my V157 motor is busted?
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Old December 22nd, 2014, 17:24   #72
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Cinching the 4mm screw pulls the bracket into the motor arm. You don't need to do it with the motor running. Once the bracket is installed correctly it should swing forward on its own when the engine is started
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Old December 23rd, 2014, 11:01   #73
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Originally Posted by ilyago View Post
I can't install it with the engine running. Since I can't see where the bracket is going, is it actually catching the lever when I install it even if the lever is in the rear position, or do I have to take the bracket out, pull and hold the lever forward, then re-install?
I had my son turn the ignition on and off a few times, but I have not seen the lever move. Does that mean my V157 motor is busted?
There is no reason to install the Diesel Geek part with the ignition on or engine running. Watch the videos to see what it's function is. It is limiting travel so the flaps are in the correct resting position. You will need to clear the flapper codes before the valve will perform its auto zero on engine shutoff.
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Old December 23rd, 2014, 13:40   #74
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So it sounds like I installed it correctly.
I hear something making noises after I shut off the engine - perhaps it is the flapper motor trying to move the lever.

Can you please expand on what you mean by "clear the flapper codes" - I have tried clearing the CEL (P2015 code was the only code) twice already, but it just came back at the next engine restart.
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Old December 23rd, 2014, 14:05   #75
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Iylago,

Perhaps we need to get you a different good used V157 motor to see if that makes a difference in your situation. Also, getting an output test done on the system might be a good idear. Email me at dieselgeek, please. jim@
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