ALH clutch and timing belt - pull engine?

It's time for my third timing belt change (285k) on my 2003 Jetta wagon, so I'll be dropping the oil pan and changing the oil pump drive chain as well. I'm also contemplating changing the clutch as well due to getting tired of this clutch chatter when cold issue I'm having as well (only chatters when the car is cold, but it's violent regardless of how much I ease into it - completely fine when warm).



I don't have to do both jobs at the same time; however, considering that I'll likely be doing both jobs fairly close to one another, does it make sense to pull the engine and transmission and do this work outside of the car? I don't have a lift, so this will be done with an engine hoist.



I'm trying to schedule vacation from work. If it's a better use of time/effort to pull the engine and transmission together to do these jobs outside of the frame, I'd rather start on the project that way than spend more time fighting in the car than it takes to pull the engine and do outside the car - assuming that's the case.



Also, assuming it makes more sense to pull the engine, is there anything else that is recommended for replacement while it's outside of the car? I was thinking about the hard coolant line that goes from the back of the water pump around the vacuum pump end of the engine - at least the rubber seal below the injection pump. Of course, if it's easier to do the jobs separately in the car I'll just deal with the seal on this pipe whenever it starts to leak.

You know that's a pretty good question..... as I have a Jetta with 250k on the clock and an contemplating the same thing. It's pretty easy to get the lock carrier out, which then makes pulling the engine and gearbox as a unit pretty darn easy.

You can quickly get into "while I'm doing it-itis" this way though too..... which isn't necessarily good at all.

Check your motor mounts, especially the dogbone and tranny one. My dad's Jetta shakes violently when cold when engaging the clutch but then get's better when the engine warms up. I can see 1/8-1/4" freeplay in the trans mount.



If you have the tools to pull the engine/trans you could, especially if you want to do other work while it's out. It will reduce the amount of time you spend laying on your back under the car with junk falling in your eyes. If your engine is grimy I'd take the time about a week early to give it a nice bath with the pressure washer.

I've always pulled them when I have more than 1 big job to do. These are some of the easiest engines I've pulled. I use a wooden cart with casters on it. The trans are a real pain to deal with in the vehicle.

I just swapped an engine. If you’re going to do all that work, take the front of the car off, bumper, radiator, condenser etc. then take everything else loose, marking and tagging as necessary and drop the engine.

I used an engine hoist, after attaching the hoist to the engine, I raised the engine slightly about an inch or so, took the four bolts for the motor mounts loose. Two on each mount, I had already removed the dogbone and then I lowered the engine with the transmission still attached down on to the legs of the hoist and just pulled the hoist backward. The engine came right out and is so much easier to work on.

The front bumper and associated bits will take about 45 minutes to remove. The time saved on the overall job is incredible.

I would say that it would be much easier to pull them both.
It'll be the easiest belt job you've ever done.
Consider loosening the crank and cam bolts before you pull them.

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Good question, there is a belt + clutch job coming from a 1.6tdi and I was asking myself the same question.

Problem is, I like to start the engine, right after tensioning the belt, to check if everything is ok, I won't be able too do it with the engine out.

Also, you would have to discharge the AC.

I think it's best to keep everything in place, and maybe do 1 job each day, much easier.

Unfortunately, I typically do have a scope creep problem and get a bad case of the "might as wells" during projects. I'll read through the Bentley manual tonight and some other engine removal literature. If I have to discharge the A/C system that will be a nod towards leaving the engine in the car. On other vehicles (not VW) for major disassembly jobs, I've been able to pull the A/C compressor out of the way with the lines still attached and leave it in the car, but I haven't needed to do this on a Mk4 yet.

No need to discharge the A/C unless you remove the entire front - not what I'd do...

is there any good write up or picture-associated post for removing the engine?


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Trans removal below, you can use a 4x4 with properly placed holes for hooks and curved wedges to hold the engine up while the trans is out, or you pull the front clip removing coolant and refrigerant. This is a good time to flush the radiator and AC though.

https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/transmission-removal-mk4-vw-jetta-tdi-golf-new-beetle/

I've personally pulled 2 02J transmissions for clutch jobs.

If you have an engine support bar I dont see a reason to pull the engine and tranny together.. I understand why you would want to do that though. I thought about pulling the engine and tranny together to do the clutch alone and IM GLAD I DIDN'T. NOT SAYING IT'S HARD TO PULL...

By the time you pull the engine and tranny, you could have already pulled the trans and put the new clutch in.

Once your transmission is pulled out(assuming you dont pull the combo) and you're going to install the transmission remember what I'm going to tell you-------------------

You can use a ratchet strap with your engine support bar with a partner to ratchet it up and you bench press it up into position. You will find the passenger side drive axle flange will get caught up on the flywheel. Before you get it stuck in this position you need to ROTATE the whole transmission COUNTER CLOCKWISE to clear the flange of the flywheel( you will see for yourself)

After R&R on two units its a walk in the park. The counter clockwise rotation of the trans is the key to a frustration free install. It'll still piss you off though hahah

Use the support bar to help lift or use a mini trans jack. Both can be bought at harbor freight and for the price their very well worth having if you're doing this kind of wrenching.

Happy Wrenching

Here's my most recent support bar, my last one was 4x4 construction.
You have 2 choices with wedges, 2 opposing wedges screwed together, or a curved wedge as shown below to rest on the fender. I pull fender 2 screws and that allows the wedge to sit against the fender next to one fender screw head to hold the position of the bar.

I used this bar to install my engine and trans together during my swap. The hooks went to the engine hangar and the other to a chain split two ways to the transmission and bolts through hangar holes front and back.

Top side showing the three 2x4's making the support bar. The 4x4 was easier to wrench on the nut to lift the assembly, definitely my preferred choice.


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no... you're creating more work and the potential for breakage/damage removing unnecessary bits.. do the jobs individually and save yourself headaches, time, and materials