stanadyne fm-100 5 micron install w/mann pre-filter - installed :)

Windowlicker said:

Any chance you can get us the part numbers off those parts you ordered from RI?

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you can see the box in the picture of the side load heater, part number on their site is 35160. and the filter was part #33642.

enjoy.

homebrewtdi said:

On numerous occasions, I've left it on (accidentally) for hours and hours with seemingly no ill effects on the battery.

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as described on Reliable Industries site,

Reliable Industries site said:

A simple and reliable sensor reacts to the fuel temperature and, when needed, activates a high-efficiency heating element.

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meaning, you'll never have to worry about draining the battery. the heater shut itself off when the fuel got warm enough, both when you're driving and when your shut down and go inside for the night. that is an excellent feature to help keep the fuel from getting too hot, or from draining the battery.

MrErlo said:

as described on Reliable Industries site,


meaning, you'll never have to worry about draining the battery. the heater shut itself off when the fuel got warm enough, both when you're driving and when your shut down and go inside for the night. that is an excellent feature to help keep the fuel from getting too hot, or from draining the battery.

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I wouldn't say you never have to worry. If you leave your car parked for extended periods, even a month or a few weeks in the winter. I would think your battery would be drained.

Also, that quote is for the top mount heater, have we determined 100% if the side mount operates in that manner?

milehighassassin said:

Also, that quote is for the top mount heater, have we determined 100% if the side mount operates in that manner?

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best information available from their site is

The Side Load Heater option (12 or 24 volt, 100 watt) is designed for use in conjuction with the hand or electric pumps, providing all the capabilities and benefits of the In-Unit Heater.

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i have to believe that means that it also have a thermostatic shut off switch. the VeggieTherm has one, seems reasonable that this type of heater would have one also.

this weekend i finally installed my side mount heater. i simply wired it into the same relay i'm using for my lift pump, and used a 10amp fuse. it seems to be working so far...

during the install, i did a couple checks. first, i wired it up and then switched the key to "on" to make sure the heater was working, it was. i noticed that it got very very hot almost instantly but then when i picked it up 10 seconds later it was only noticably warm. so i turned the key off, then back on again. again it was very hot almost instantly. my conclusion is that when the heater clicked on in the air, it heated above the thermostatic shut off temperature very quickly and shut itself off. to me, this confirmed that i was indeed working and that the shut off circuit was in fact installed in this model, and was functioning properly.

i'm thinking of wiring a light in my dash board to the heater so i can tell when the heater is on. hopefully this shouldn't be too difficult, guess we'll see. does anyone think i need to have individual relays for the lift pump and the heater? does anyone think having them together will cause a problem of any kind?

Reliable Industries seems to have screwed up their page so badly that you can no longer buy the FM-100, filters, or heaters from them. so the new websites are

FM-100 head and filter
http://www.mwfi.com/Stanadyne_Filter/Stanadyne_filters_Head.htm
FM100 Head Assembly - 3/8x18 NPTF Ports 33648 $37.00
FM100 standard flow Fuel / Water Separator element 6" 5m 31877 $15.54

FM-100 heater
http://www.injpump.com/Stanadyne_Filter/Stanadyne_filter_options.htm
12V 100W for head # 33648 35160 $48.43

those are different domain names for the same warehouse, phone number is 1-877-375-7867. the element length is up to you, but SUNRG recommends the 6" element based on less flow restriction. you'll need the 5/16" - 3/8", hose barb - NPT piece. that's available from Eldon James as mentioned previously in this thread. i also have a couple spare sets if anyone wants to PM me.

hope this helps some other people know the joy that is the FM-100 system.

Hello Guys,
Alright somebody help me out with this. I was getting ready to do the cat filter that other TDI guys have mention but they were talking about 2 micron absolute. Somewhere in here I read this filter was 5 micron. So I am guessing this will catch more of the crap in the fuel. So will this setup fit into a 96 Passat B4? The vehicles in this thread don't look the same under the hood as the passat I just got. Can I use this setup? And is it better than the Cat setup? Thanks Mike

A 2 micron filter is finer and will catch more dirt than a 5 micron

mtogburn said:

Hello Guys,
Alright somebody help me out with this. I was getting ready to do the cat filter that other TDI guys have mention but they were talking about 2 micron absolute. Somewhere in here I read this filter was 5 micron. So I am guessing this will catch more of the crap in the fuel. So will this setup fit into a 96 Passat B4? The vehicles in this thread don't look the same under the hood as the passat I just got. Can I use this setup? And is it better than the Cat setup? Thanks Mike

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Do the research from the original threads. You CAN get a a 2 micron Stanadyne filter, but the 5-micron filter is 93% effective at removing 2-micron sized material from the fuel, that is at 45 GPH, where the TDI pumps 18 gallons per hour, so the efficiency rating on our cars would be even higher than the stated 93%

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=60614&page=2
http://www.stanadyne.com/new/ppt/showfile.asp?id=716

The reason most people including myself are using the 5 micron filter are because it is less restrictive to the fuel system and still VERY effective at filtering down to 2-micron (93% and 98% at 5-micron).

Call Reliable Industries for the best price.
1-800-693-4583
Part Number 33642 (unit and filter)
That is for the smaller filter (4.3"), I would order a 6" filter as well. I ordered a couple 6" filters to start with, and some to swap out later (save on shipping). I keep the 4.3" filter in my hatch as a spare in case I get bad fuel and need to change out the filter. The 4.3" filter has more restriction but it is not so much to cause problems.

Fm 100 installs just about anywhere..

Very interesting thread. At this time I'm not a TDI owner...but am in the hunt for an 2001-2003 Jetta handshaker.

Currently running a Duramax and I too have istalled this filter system. Biggest issue I faced was what to do when the fuel got a bit cloudy at -26C (I was using a BioD additive), and couldn't bypass the 5Mu filter.

That day was also one I wanted to lock myself away from 3 feuding PMS'in females and as such locked the garage from the garage side and built this:

http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/19995/2276368900047245006S500x500Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/33867/2929597300047245006S500x500Q85.jpg

The bypass was the result of not being able to buy a new 5 Mu filter over this particular weekend..and it gave me something to do while staying away from the feud.! so now at least if my filter plugs during winte, I can just turn the valves and run direct. (note I still use the OEM fuel filter too, the FM is post OEM). Typically get about 35,000 km before it needs to be changed)

Cheers,

stk

steakman said:

Very interesting thread. At this time I'm not a TDI owner...but am in the hunt for an 2001-2003 Jetta handshaker.

Currently running a Duramax and I too have istalled this filter system. Biggest issue I faced was what to do when the fuel got a bit cloudy at -26C (I was using a BioD additive), and couldn't bypass the 5Mu filter.

http://inlinethumb28.webshots.com/19995/2276368900047245006S500x500Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/33867/2929597300047245006S500x500Q85.jpg

The bypass was the result of not being able to buy a new 5 Mu filter over this particular weekend..and it gave me something to do while staying away from the feud.! so now at least if my filter plugs during winte, I can just turn the valves and run direct. (note I still use the OEM fuel filter too, the FM is post OEM). Typically get about 35,000 km before it needs to be changed)

Cheers,

stk

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Interesting setup. Is that a restriction gauge on your setup? Where in-line is it being measured?

Also you said that you are running Bio-Diesel, in one of the Stanadyne threads there is information about how biodiesel and I think brass and copper are not compatible with each other. Over time they corrode. It might be something for you to look into with your setup.

steakman said:

Currently running a Duramax and I too have istalled this filter system. Biggest issue I faced was what to do when the fuel got a bit cloudy at -26C (I was using a BioD additive), and couldn't bypass the 5Mu filter.

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i highly recommend the FM-100 side-mount heater to TDI owners, although since your setup is slightly different you might want to check out the in-unit heater.

http://www.injpump.com/Stanadyne_Filter/Stanadyne_filter_options.htm

i ran B33 all winter here in Omaha with my FM-100 and heater, and never had a gel problem. i also have an in-tank lift pump to send fuel forward to the injector pump, so that probably helped as well.

When I compared prices two months ago, Reliable Industries was indeed the cheapest.

In the pic posted above, it looks like a JK/Kennedy restriction gauge. I was going to order one with a drag pointer from designatedengineer.com, but Tim there said his gauge only worked upright and suggested that with the lift pump I added under the fuel tank, there would be pressure instead of vacuum. I wasn't convinced, but decided not to order. Just after I got off the phone, SUNRG informed me that he was using a Designated Engineer gauge. I'm waiting to hear which model.

What the geek in me wants to do is to run some tests with 5 µm vs 2 µm or even the 4.3" canister. With the added electric lift pump under the fuel tank (4-7 PSI, 72 GPH, VE/ALH engine not PD), I'm guessing the restriction will be minimized even with the 2 µm filter --- but, I need to run the tests to know for sure. Most of the restriction posts I've read on this forum is either on a PD, or a VE without a lift pump. I'm pretty sure switching a 2 µm (currently on 5 µm) will be ok without running any tests, but I'm geeky enough to do it .

So, is anyone else using a designated engineer restriction gauge or other -- which one?

http://designatedengineer.com/pointer.html

i have this guage. still haven't installed it. i'm going to replace my fuel filter in a few thousand miles at which time i'll pop this in and report back how it's working.

That's the same one I was going to order, but Tim the seller said it wouldn't work if horizontally mounted, unless I empty the oil, which would make the drag pointer more sensitive to vibration. I guess I'll just give it a try.

vwlogue said:

That's the same one I was going to order, but Tim the seller said it wouldn't work if horizontally mounted, unless I empty the oil, which would make the drag pointer more sensitive to vibration. I guess I'll just give it a try.

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i haven't heard anything about it not working horizontally.. that's odd. well, we'll find out soon...

OK, I and getting ready for my fuel filter upgrade and have a few questions on mounting. I looked for the best spot while installing my DG Oil bypass filter and came up with a spot next to the battery as the deepest and widest. My goal is to install the FM-100 and run a 30u filter in conjunction with a 2u CAT. Overkill, maybe. My thought is to mount plates on the inside and outside of the battery box to provide support. Otherwisde I could fashion a U-shape mount and tie it in to the front of the engine bay. Any thougths would be greatly appreciated.

VDubsoon said:

OK, I and getting ready for my fuel filter upgrade and have a few questions on mounting. I looked for the best spot while installing my DG Oil bypass filter and came up with a spot next to the battery as the deepest and widest. My goal is to install the FM-100 and run a 30u filter in conjunction with a 2u CAT. Overkill, maybe. My thought is to mount plates on the inside and outside of the battery box to provide support. Otherwisde I could fashion a U-shape mount and tie it in to the front of the engine bay. Any thougths would be greatly appreciated.

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that's definitely overkill - and quite possibly too restrictive. stanadyne has a 2u filter as well. the 5u filter however already filters out 92-93% of 2u particles. if you want absolute 2u filtration, get the 2u filter and just use a simple inline pre-filter like the MANN or something else that will get larger particles, but not cause too much restriction.

PD lift pump will be added to deal alleviate restriction, so that won't be an issue.

I like the water separation of the FM-100 (thougth I have heard mixed reviews) and the 2u capability of the CAT. I also figure this will afford me extremly intervals between filter changes.

VDubsoon said:

PD lift pump will be added to deal alleviate restriction, so that won't be an issue.

I like the water separation of the FM-100 (thougth I have heard mixed reviews) and the 2u capability of the CAT. I also figure this will afford me extremly intervals between filter changes.

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the FM-100 has a 2u option as Pods just pointed out. in fact, i have a 2u 4.3" element at my place right now. i bought it by mistake before i read the restriction numbers from SUNRG.

and using the FM-100 as a 30u filter would be a waste of space. the FM-100 is designed to be a final filter, and is genearlly only used if you plan to use the extra ports for a side mount heater or other Stanadyne accessory.

i'm not shooting you down, it just seems that you're going over board.

that being said, i drilled the front of my frame as previously mentioned in this thread. my brother just put in his FM-100 and installed in the same fashion. both filters are doing good, my brother's is actually doing so well... it clogged on all the gunk loosened as he traded from petro to bio dang dino-d, always messing my stuff up.

OK, so is the 2u, 6" FM-100 too restrictive for use with lift pump on ALH? I am not out to add additional cost for no more benefit, but I have the lift pump in the garage. I have had water in my fuel before, several years ago and tend to lean toward the Stanadyne over the Cat for the water bowl alone. Basically I want excellent 2u filtration with good water separator. Stanadyne recommends 30-150u filter as primary and 2-5u as finishing.

VDubsoon said:

OK, so is the 2u, 6" FM-100 too restrictive for use with lift pump on ALH?

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i don't have the restriction numbers for either the FM-100 or the Cat 2u filters, i believe you'll need to contact SUNRG to get those numbers. they have been posted in a thread, but i can't remember where.

why are you so anxious to have the 2u filter? as indicated before, the 5u FM-100 filters are 92% effective at trapping 2u particles.

I believe the 2u filters are fine restriction wise, but SUNRG fealt that with the 92% effective rate of the 5u, why bother. You can get more life out of the 5u compared to the 2u.
I think you are crazy to use the Stanadyne and the Cat. It would be way overkill, and probably create more problems with the extra restriction, even if you use a bigger pump (why do that, it is not needed, just giving yourself one more fail point).

I installed my FM-100 several months ago in the typical position next to the stock oil filter as suggested by burpod in the first post of this thread. Since then, I've also wanted to install a DieselGeek oil bypass filter, which unfortunatley, is designed to mount in the same space. Initally, I was hoping to mount the oil bypass filter where the stock fuel filter used to be. I talked to Jim and DG and he indicated that the Amsoil filter was too big for that space. This past weekend, I found a solution: by modifying the stock fuel filter mounting bracket, it's possible to mount a 6" Stanadyne filter in the stock fuel filter location.

How-to:

1) Use an angle grinder, to cut off the riser part of the standard fuel filter mounting clamp assembly that prevents stock filter from slipping down and riding on the wheel well. This riser, if left in place, interferes with the lock ring on the FM-100 head and prevents the clamp from tightening uniformly.

2) Replace the Phillips head machine screw used to tighten the standard fuel filter clamp with a M6x50 1.0mm pitch hex cap bolt. This is necessary because the locking ring on the Stanadyne head blocks access to the top of the original machine screw. With the hex cap bolt, you can tighten the clamp from the side with a 10mm open ended wrench. Fifty millimeters is the minimum hex screw length that you can get away with. Something longer is fine, but make sure that it has enough threads cut into it. Often, on longer hex bolts, the threads do not extend all the way to the head.

3) Instead of the typical connections to the FM-100 head unit suggested by burpod, swap the connections to the filter input ports. My side-load heater is now where the fuel supply line used to be, and vice versa. This is not completely necessary, but the side-load heater came very close to the frame and the coolant reservoir.

While not necessary, I also shortened the supply hose so that the 150um pre-filter rests in a reasonable place up by the strut tower. I left the hose connecting the pre-filter to the FM-100 long so that I will have enough slack to easily lift the filter out of the clamp and drain any water or swap the filter without disconnecting any hoses. The extra hose is coiled once under the coolant reservoir. Total cost is just the price of the new hex cap screw. You don't need any new fuel hose either.

So far, I like the arrangement because the fuel filter is now in a more natural place and, with just one screw to loosen, it easier to lift the fuel filter out for service. Additionally, for those who haven't already installed the FM-100 unit in their cars, this method avoids drilling into the metal lip next to the hood latch. The top the FM-100 head unit comes close to the underside of the hood, but as far as I can tell, doesn't have any negative effects.

While I haven't tried it, the water collection bowl I bought for my filter still does not fit. I have the tallest of the FM-100's (6"), and the clear water collection bowl didn't fit in the standard location either. It was interfering with a AC hose, IIRC.

The finished product:

Nice, I feel that where I mounted my FM-100 I could still get a DG bypass kit in there.

kwgilpin - nice job! i did not think it was possible!

i too want a bypass kit and was considering getting a bracket made that would allow the amsoil bypass filter to mount onto the engine on an empty hole right behind my fm100. should be enough room, but.. again haven't gotten to it yet.

this looks nice tho. i still have my old oem fuel filter holders, i may try this at some point. although i had no fitment issues with mine even with the clear bowl water separator, other than not fitting the standard DG bypass kit.

question, why is your return line so long?

ps. looks like you're runnin bio

thanks for your post!

burpod, I'm not sure why I had issues getting the water separator bowl to fit. Maybe my '03 had slightly different hose routing than your '05? Also, maybe my original mounting standsoffs that I attached to the metal lip next to the hood latch were longer/shorter than yours? If I forced it, I could have made the 6" element fit with the water bowl attached, but it definitely rubbed up against one of the hoses, and I didn't want that.

The return line is long because it used to run nice and parallel to the supply line from the tank to the filter input, and I didn't bother to shorten it after I moved the filter.

And yes, it's BioD. San Jose must be one of the few places in the country where BioD is cheaper than DinoD: 4.91 vs. 5.03 last time I filled up. One of it's few redeeming graces. I'll be moving back to Boston in September--looking forward to hopefully meeting you and the rest of the Boston area TDI'ers.

unfortunately, it looks like i'm not moving back to cape cod now. maybe end of summer i hope maybe before, but doubtful -- i'm not the one to ask.

just make sure your hoses are secure and not rubbing on anything

got any pics of your modified oem fuel filter holder?

today i changed my fuel filter (been about 30k miles) and re-located the fm100 to the location as kwgilpin did, except i kept the standard direction of the fm100 (not sure if it makes a difference). in order to do this i cut off and buffed the fm100 head mount. much nicer in this location!! wish i had thought of this before. less hose, just as easy to service and now i can install a dieselgeek bypass filter next oil change. i'll have some better daytime pics of the install tomorrow. i also installed the fuel restriction gauge and removed the clear bowl water separator (since there is no room for it here)...

photos start here and go to the right (to the left is turbo install!!! ))

http://picasaweb.google.com/burpod/TurboInstall/photo#5227522592504662242

burpod said:

today i changed my fuel filter (been about 30k miles) and re-located the fm100 to the location as kwgilpin did, except i kept the standard direction of the fm100 (not sure if it makes a difference). in order to do this i cut off and buffed the fm100 head mount. much nicer in this location!! wish i had thought of this before. less hose, just as easy to service and now i can install a dieselgeek bypass filter next oil change. i'll have some better daytime pics of the install tomorrow. i also installed the fuel restriction gauge and removed the clear bowl water separator (since there is no room for it here)...

photos start here and go to the right (to the left is turbo install!!! ))

http://picasaweb.google.com/burpod/TurboInstall/photo#5227522592504662242

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Nice pics on the turbo instal.

Since it sounds like you got it down, what is the trick to getting the intake manifold off on the PD?

Do you have another thread about this?