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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old December 15th, 2016, 16:59   #76
jhax
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I am very curious about those heaters. It looks like they would fit the alh but I would be concerned about weaping due to exhaust manifold heat.
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Old December 16th, 2016, 15:56   #77
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Your ALH has frost plugs...?

-Todd
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Old December 16th, 2016, 16:07   #78
1.9ZOOK
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I just had a look at my ALH and it has none.
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Old December 18th, 2016, 13:02   #79
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Yeah, I screwed up on that one. Mine has been sitting in front of me this whole time and I didnt even notice that it doesnt. Woops.
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Old December 18th, 2016, 17:38   #80
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Progress has slowed in the car. Been focused on garage organization, adding shelving, and more lighting.

Pulled the trans off the stand and saw weeping at the lowest, left hole in the bell housing. Not quite sure what to make of it....




Pulled the bolt, and cleaned out the hole with brake clean and a brush.




Plan is to reinstall the bolt with threadlocker to seal the threads. I'll coat the an inch of threads, below the head with some Ultra Gray. Not planning on splitting the case for this.

Ordered some Weather Pack stuff, for when I start lengthening the harnesses into the bay.




No clue why I ordered so much....

-Todd
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Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:37.
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Old December 19th, 2016, 18:47   #81
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Well whatever you have left over Ill take off your hands. I have yet to get a wiring harness but I know ill be lengthening it.
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Old December 20th, 2016, 10:36   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
Some good points. What do you mean by chain 2 compressors together?

I think EW rebrands Kirker products.

Some areas need to be taken down to metal. Pete made me strip the roof, because it was metallic and badly cracked. He said if we just sanded, hi builded, then sealed, the cracks would probably telegraph through. I'm unsure why, but he's the expert, so I did what he told me to do.

I don't mind the rough metal repair, but I don't enjoy the sanding. There are a lot of tricks to blocking panels properly. I let his guys do that. He had me running the DA and wiping panels for hours.... it sucked.

If I have him paint another car for me, I'll likely pay him full price to do everything. FWIW, my car was painted with Sikkens.

-Todd
When I learned the trade years ago we did the same. Anything that was cracked badly, especially if it was down to base coat, was removed completely. Even if it was sealed and built up it would reappear later down the road.

I've always been a big advocate of the notion that nothing sticks better than the original finish but in the case of severe cracking I don't think you can make a case for keeping any of it.

Making great progress Todd. If I would have done my wagon to this level of quality it would have been 2018 before I'd have been able to drive it, and I don't have the patience to do that!

As for painting, I won't undertake any project anymore that requires serious paint work. I haven't painted in years and have no good space for that. Paying someone else for paint work has become a luxury that I can't really justify. I remember a couple years ago a friend trying to find a body shop to paint his Mk2 GTI and hearing his "friend of the owners" price of $6300 for all his work. When I hear that I just lose interest.

Yours will be super when it's done. I know you've said you don't know whether you're going to keep it or not but I would encourage you to do so.

PS - did you really need all those block heaters?

Steve
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Old December 20th, 2016, 17:12   #83
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Painting the car is a double edged sword. I wasn't planning on painting it, but I wasn't going to drive it around, looking the way it did after the rust repair.

Do I need three heaters? Likely not, but I've never had a problem with them leaking, so why not? In the bay, with the manifolds and turbo in the way, they'd be impossible to install, so I took advantage of the easy access. I also added redundancy, if one fails.

I'm used to running 2 400w heaters on the IDIs. With one runnng, I'd need 40min on a 1.6 to make a difference. If I was in a rush, I'd run both.

Each of the B4s has a 1500w tank heater on it, but I don't like the fact that they eat real estate. Personally, I think the block heaters do a better job.

Anyway, I replaced that lower bolt in the trans. Waiting an hour, prior to the final torque on the bolt. I'll probably add a little dollop of Ultra Gray on the nose of the bolt, in the bell housing to seal it up.

After 24 hours (likely more) I'll dump a couple quarts of cheap oil in, it to leak test. It'll get drained, then the trans gets resealed. Need to spray that endcap...

-Todd
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Old December 21st, 2016, 06:32   #84
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I vote periwinkle.
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Old December 22nd, 2016, 03:20   #85
vw_nut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Addy View Post
When I learned the trade years ago we did the same. Anything that was cracked badly, especially if it was down to base coat, was removed completely. Even if it was sealed and built up it would reappear later down the road.

I've always been a big advocate of the notion that nothing sticks better than the original finish but in the case of severe cracking I don't think you can make a case for keeping any of it.

Making great progress Todd. If I would have done my wagon to this level of quality it would have been 2018 before I'd have been able to drive it, and I don't have the patience to do that!

As for painting, I won't undertake any project anymore that requires serious paint work. I haven't painted in years and have no good space for that. Paying someone else for paint work has become a luxury that I can't really justify. I remember a couple years ago a friend trying to find a body shop to paint his Mk2 GTI and hearing his "friend of the owners" price of $6300 for all his work. When I hear that I just lose interest.

Yours will be super when it's done. I know you've said you don't know whether you're going to keep it or not but I would encourage you to do so.

PS - did you really need all those block heaters?

Steve
I to have had my bad painting experiences, i delt with the one I currently have on my truck and painters are a pain to work with, my other truck I'm not looking forward to the paint, i may try it myself, it's the body work that I'm not interested in
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Old December 22nd, 2016, 04:51   #86
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I guess I got lucky or found a good shop. The owner and his wife are good people who I've built a rapport with. I stop by at least a couple times a month to just chat.

I've used this shop several times and although he overshot the deadline, the quality of work is excellent. I go in knowing my cars are to be worked on, between other jobs, so I don't really mind.

The quality of work is excellent.

-Todd
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Old December 22nd, 2016, 09:25   #87
Steve Addy
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Originally Posted by vw_nut View Post
I to have had my bad painting experiences, i delt with the one I currently have on my truck and painters are a pain to work with, my other truck I'm not looking forward to the paint, i may try it myself, it's the body work that I'm not interested in
The body work can be no joy ride if you don't have ready access to a decent welder. I have access to one if I need it but haven't taken advantage of that recently. I might in the future if I really plan to stay in the mid-west and keep the wagon on the road. The rockers are there but there's some weakness that will show up likely in the future.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
I guess I got lucky or found a good shop. The owner and his wife are good people who I've built a rapport with. I stop by at least a couple times a month to just chat.

I've used this shop several times and although he overshot the deadline, the quality of work is excellent. I go in knowing my cars are to be worked on, between other jobs, so I don't really mind.

The quality of work is excellent.

-Todd
Todd, you've gotten lucky finding a shop that will work with you like that. Without getting into the whole story of what happened I will say my friend ended up spending $4k for a paint job that wasn't worth $500, it was so bad and it was so poorly applied and the body repair so poorly done that I encouraged him to sell it immediately before anything started to show up, and it would have.

I honestly don't know how the guy who sprayed it can call himself a painter, I sincerely think I could have done a better job not having held a gun for 20 years. On the lower body where it curves inward there were areas where the paint was so thin you could see through it or the paint was non-existent. The paint was dry but the clear was applied so heavily that it ran everywhere and the painter said he was going to scrape it all.

At any rate the car got sold quickly...and luckily, but it really poisons other people on paint work.

Yours is going to be spectacular when it's finished!

Steve
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Old January 8th, 2017, 18:44   #88
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Finally painted the trans end cover and drive flanges. Needed to get the trans resealed, to leak check the one leaking bolt, in the bell housing.

One seal sleeve popped out when trying to pop the seal. Never had that happen before. Had to destroy the seal to get it out, but the sleeve was perfect. I'm reusing it... a rear control arm bushing is the perfect drive arbor.




Smeared a light coat of Ultra Grey on the sleeve and tapped it in. Getting the drive flanges compressed is a chore, on the bench.




The guide tube that came out was OE. I'm curious what was machined off the replacement.






Filled it, let it sit for 24 hours and was satisfied.

This got me thinking of the sets of Rein CV boot kits on the shelf. The outers are "Made in Germany". Something was sanded off of them.




Look closely, and you can make out a part of the VW logo.




You can definitely make out the VAG markings from the inside.




Not crazy about the sanding... those areas are considerably thinner. Likely wouldn't be an issue, but I'll clean those areas up and smear some Ultra Grey on them, to bulk them up.

Needed to reblast some parts.... flash rust was appearing, from sitting. Got some paint on the reblasted parts.






They'll bake for 24 hours.

-Todd
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'97 B4: Stock
Rabbit build

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:39.
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Old January 15th, 2017, 14:10   #89
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The engine and transmission were finally married! They came apart briefly, because I realized I left the alignment bushings out.




No clue what the point of these "isolators" are. Honestly, I never install them... Check out the great VW quality control… all three have the same part number but are noticeably different in size.




I decided to install the engine from the bottom. I didn't want to get the hoist out, or take the hood off, because Pete had it gapped nicely.










That was an effortless installation.

-Todd
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Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:41.
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Old January 15th, 2017, 16:01   #90
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Like a glove!
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