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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old March 31st, 2016, 02:47   #16
vw_nut
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How you doing the power windows
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Old April 1st, 2016, 17:11   #17
ToddA1
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Like this: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?3926544

Big Blue has power windows, too.

-Todd
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Old April 22nd, 2016, 20:11   #18
ToddA1
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I haven't been too motivated to work on this recently... baby steps.

I pulled the pedal cluster, brake booster and steering column, to work on the hydraulic clutch setup. My tank of shielding gas was empty, so that didn't go far.

I was on the fence about what wiring setup to use at the column. If I used CE2 stuff, I read that I would not be able to use the stock Rabbit clamshell. I'd need to use the later clamshell, which would mean I'd need to start cutting up the dash.

The other option would be to run CE1 stalks and ignition switch, and splice everything at the column. Not too keen on splicing, if it can be avoided.

I wasn't really a fan of either of the above, so I took a different approach.

I like the look of the late A2 big stalks, so I started by attempting to dry fit the Rabbit clamshell without the stalks. The locating tab was cut off the column and will be rewelded, later.

Had to grind/cut a few areas on the ignition assembly and clearanced/drilled areas of the clamshell. Once the clamshell snapped on, I installed the stalks and clearanced/drilled areas of the clamshell, again.












At this point it's time to glass. Resin won't eat green floral foam and it's incredibly easy to shape. CA the foam to the taped off column and rough shaped with a strip of 100 spray glued to a paint stick. Final shaped with my finger.






2 layers of 1.5 CSM were applied and rolled out.






Packed it in for the night, waiting for the resin to kick.

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:07.
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Old April 24th, 2016, 08:43   #19
ToddA1
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Sanded the cured glass with some 36 and smeared on some short strand, then some body filler. Final shaped it and it needs to be textured and sprayed. I doubt anyone will notice the extra curvature, unless it's pointed out to them.












Realistically, the hole for the bolt may not have been needed. Unless you're under the dash, the holes on the bottom would never be seen. Only the 2 rectangles on the side would be visible.

I have a big cruise stalk on the way. I'm thinking I want the later A2 cruise stalk with hazard.

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:08.
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Old April 24th, 2016, 18:39   #20
ToddA1
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Worked on the pedal cluster today. Wasted a lot of time trying to have the clutch mc in the car. I scrapped the idea because I didn't think I'd get a smooth fluid flow from the reservoir and I didn't want an additional reservoir in the car.

I'm using a S2 16v booster and will be running the B4 m/c and reservoir.








Did some minor work to mount the brake and clutch switches.






Clutch pedal seems to have proper travel... I guess I'll find out once the engine and trans get installed.

I didn't want it pulling or bottoming out the piston. I left around 1/8" slack on both positions. The clip box I made is only gripping one catch. Seems to be plenty secure.






After I got the above situated and felt confident with everything, I started reinforcing the clutch mc plate. Wasted a lot of time on this because I wanted the strengthening rib flared out. I ended up using 2 pieces of metal.








Plasma cutter shut down on me, so I had to call it quits a bit early. Cutting the metal with a grinder was a long and loud ordeal. The cops would have been at my house....

Need to make the support arm to prevent firewall flexing, then I can blast and paint everything.

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:09.
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Old April 25th, 2016, 23:28   #21
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I cut the clutch mc bracket off today and rewelded it. I originally had it angled down slightly because another forum member did so. He was getting binding and said the downward angle was needed. My geometry looked worse angled down, so it got straightened out. It probably wouldn't have been an issue, but the geometry is better now, with no binding.

Also added a couple gussets and added the support arms. This thing is rock solid and the firewall will never flex. Drilled the hole in the firewall to mount the clutch master. It officially fits.








Looking at the lower clutch pedal bracket that I made, I may have to reposition it. I think it's going to interfere with the steering column universal. I was only eyeballing everything with the outer tube installed... easy fix.

Started making the DBW bracket. Using a pedal from a gas A4 Jetta. From what I've read, I'll need to tweak the pedal a bit, to get more travel. I don't like the look of the plastic pedal, so cut up the stock Rabbit pedal and will be mating the two.








Setting up my pedal height. Using Big Blue as a guide, the accelerator pedal is 2.75" to the right of the edge of the brake pedal. The accelerator pedal is 1.25" below the brake.






My measurements somehow got tweaked by .25". My "between" distance is 2.5".... will need to reverify my measurements and adjust, if needed. There's a lot of slop in Big Blue's pedal.

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:10.
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Old April 26th, 2016, 11:13   #22
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A "gas" pedal won't work - you need one with the words "Diesel" on the label.
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Old April 26th, 2016, 13:51   #23
ToddA1
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Another member used a pedal from a 1.8t and it worked. He said he wasn't registering full travel and he need to mod the pedal, but it worked fine. I'm hoping to have the same luck.


Finished my pedal. Unsure if my bracket was tweaked or the car's bracket was. Maybe a combination of both, but I needed to twist the bracket into position. Once that was done, I needed a 0.5" spacer. I was going to add a gusset, but it's plenty strong.

In the end, it was 2.75" between the brake and go pedal. The go pedal is 1.5" lower than the brake.










Next up was mounting the fuse panel. I mentioned I didn't want it upside down.






I installed the steering column and the lower clutch bracket was coming into contact with the column universal. This was only occurring at full travel, so I think I'll get away with clearancing it.

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:11.
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Old April 30th, 2016, 14:58   #24
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We had some pretty dismal weather that sucked the motivation from me. Got a few things done, though.

I saw a patch of surface rust that the booster was hiding. Tough area to get into, but the torch, utility knife, screwdrivers and wire wheels got the seam sealer and rust, pretty well. Soaked it with acid and hopefully got all the rust. Sprayed some self etch primer and some Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Will recoat all the cracked seam sealer with new seam sealer when the paint cures.






Blasted some parts and sprayed some paint. The window channels had some deep rust at the bottoms, so they're soaking in acid.







Need to pull the steering rack and refurb it, then the wiring may begin.

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:12.
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Old June 11th, 2016, 17:48   #25
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There were some light spots in the fender wells, so they got touched up. I planned to do the same with the rear fender wells, but after seeing lack luster results because of the heavy texture, they'll get sprayed black.




After the Rust Encapsulator cured in the engine bay, I went over all the cracked seam sealer with fresh seam sealer. I used an idea I saw on Vortex and painted below the frame horn belt line with black paint. The OG idea was only on the firewall, but I took it a bit further. The logic is this area is always dirty, so hide the dirt.






Took a steering rack apart, cleaned it out and regreased it. New rack bushings, tie rods and boots, of course. I had poly rack bushings, but decided to order new rubber to keep vibrations down.




Finally bolted the steering column and pedal cluster in. Kicking the tires to steer it around the driveway was getting old. Sharp eyes may have caught that the pedal cluster and steering rack were parts from an autotragic A1. Nobody seems to want these parts.






And that's where I sit. The car has started to be used as a shed.




Somewhere along the way, butyl sound deadener was applied.

At this point, nothing is holding me back from starting the wiring.

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:13.
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Old July 6th, 2016, 18:35   #26
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Minor progress.... I bought a easy up canopy. If I'm not baking in the sun, maybe I'll work on this more.




I decided to apply Dynamat Hoodliner to the raintray and firewall. I did this over a decade ago to a built gas Rabbit and it was the quietest Rabbut I've ever driven. The fact that Chip Foose endorses Dynamat and they specifically mention diesels made it a no brainier, haha!




I started by cutting all the bend tabs and other brackets off the firewall. Any minor rust was wire brushed, etch primed and coated with Rust Encapsulator.




I originally planned on only doing the p/s like the factory, but figured I'd do the entire thing.

I did this in 2 pieces. The last time I did this, I tried to make it 1 piece and it was a nightmare. The adhesive is very aggressive. 3M 3440 was used in multiple 1/2 overlapping layers to achieve a strong seamless transition between pieces and to cover any exposed foam edge.

Peeling the release paper a little at a time and working the contours with a small roller took some time. Because the firewall and raintray aren't 100% flat, I ended up short in 3 areas. Patched in with more Hoodliner and tape and you'd never know.

Brake clean easily wipes the red from the tape.










Torched a screwdriver and burned through, from the cabin for holes. Need to come up with a way to give the other holes a finished look.




Mounting the m/c and plumbing new lines comes next.

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:14.
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Old July 7th, 2016, 16:28   #27
Steve Addy
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Nice
On the B3V I installed thin fiberglass insulation blanket on the back and upper portion of the bulkhead accessible from the rain tray area. The 16v didn't have anything there originally.

On the diesel cars I think there was something originally in there but even for the B4 it's now NLA and I couldn't find an extant one in a JY on any B4.

nice canopy

Steve
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Old July 7th, 2016, 22:05   #28
ToddA1
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The canopy is coming in handy. Being in the shade with box fans blowing makes mid 90s pretty tolerable.

I rebuilt and resealed the HVAC box that's in the rain tray area, but I was already thinking about pulling it back out and covering the area you mentioned. I have enough scrap to get it done.

On past cars, I used the same stuff on the inside of the firewall. The effect definitely wasn't the same. Dynamat refers to this stuff as sound soaker, and I guess it makes sense.

I was thinking about adding a heat shield behind the turbo and dp. They claim this stuff is alumanized, but if I can melt through with a screwdriver....

Anyhow, I spent all day doing brake plumbing. I'll post pics tomorrow.

-Todd
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Old July 8th, 2016, 13:01   #29
ToddA1
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Mocking up the brake lines. I use a strand of 12ga Romex to get the approximate bends and length. Pretty crazy how even the shortest line is about 24", prior to bending.

Lines from the prop valve to rear drums were already replaced. I nicked them when cutting out the floors.




I think I did a pretty decent job of keeping everything symmetrical.




For some reason, I love that little jog around the fuel lines. Seeing those bend tabs on the frame horns bothers me. I'll be cutting them off and touching up with single stage.




I decided to pull everything off and gold plate them, lol.






Booster and clutch master were painted, but not shown. As mentioned earlier, booster is S2 16v and the m/c and clutch master are B4.

-Todd

Last edited by ToddA1; June 5th, 2018 at 20:15.
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Old July 8th, 2016, 13:44   #30
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Clean Work!
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