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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old November 30th, 2014, 21:13   #61
iddhi
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1.9 TDI water cooled Exhaust castings finally succeeded. These will work for SDI engines TDI's and PD.

Last edited by iddhi; December 2nd, 2014 at 15:37.
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Old March 4th, 2015, 23:11   #62
RichB
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What is the status for these exhaust manifolds or is it better to just modify one from a Kabota or Yanmar? Thanks!
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Old March 5th, 2015, 05:20   #63
pan-d-man
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RichB, I have a drawing for a manifold adapter from the 1.9 TDI to fit a an exhaust manifold and cooling exchanger from a Yanmar 4LH. It stands the cooler about 3" off the face of the head. I think the one designed as shown on this thread is a great option as well. Either way would be an economical option.
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Old March 5th, 2015, 13:44   #64
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That would be great! Bowman has discontinued their kit which I think is what Pathfinder used and Lancing was kind of hard to communicate w/, so modifying something definitely works for me.

Can you recommend a place that sells this Yanmar manifold? I think I saw on Ebay for around $500. What is it made of, aluminum, bronze, cast iron ?

Also, what raw water pump are you using? I was going w/ the Jabsco one Bowman used in their kit.
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Old March 5th, 2015, 15:49   #65
iddhi
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The first two prototype manifolds are cast and machined, the machining part turned out to be quiet challenging.


Also finally have the Bell machined, finished that just a couple of weeks ago. Will assemble the DYNO tester this weekend and give it its maiden try.


Also finished my first minimum Standalone harness plus did the ECU tuning to run the engine without MAF sensor and of course deleted the IMMO.
Will have a nice comparison for running the unit with my mechanical 11mm pump (currently mounted in the boat) VS the electronically controlled EDC15 10mm VP37 version (mounted on my Dyno engine)



Will be back to California this month, i updated the rear mounts of the boat engine and i will be able to test it under full throttle. I also prepared a water/meth injection system for the boat combined with an exhaust temperature gauge, will post the results as soon as possible.

Last edited by iddhi; October 27th, 2017 at 22:56.
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Old March 6th, 2015, 16:25   #66
RichB
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Outstanding! Very interested to see the difference between the two pumps as I am still questioning the mechanical pump on my truck's conversion and would go to the electronic pump if there was a standalone harness for my 1Z.
Again, amazing work..
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Old March 7th, 2015, 07:18   #67
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Good to hear progress is being made.
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Old March 8th, 2015, 16:09   #68
iddhi
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Quote:
I am still questioning the mechanical pump on my truck's conversion and would go to the electronic pump if there was a standalone harness for my 1Z.
I can offer a standalone 1Z harness by the end of the year. Let me know if interested.
Spend a long time to find sources for each and every connector, now the set is complete.
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Old March 11th, 2015, 17:26   #69
iddhi
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Finished the new coupler this week. Since the Mercruiser drive shaft is firmly connected to the Gimbal housing and the gimbal housing is firmly attached to the Boat, the coupler needs to compensate all engine vibration and movements. The original Mercruiser design is not suitable to cope with the dynamics of a Diesel, only a few cm of rubber are available to isolate vibration.
This is especially true since i plan to place the engine on silicon filled engine mounts, thus there will be a lot of movement.

Here the original Mercruiser design:




I decided to go for the "hardy disc" solution or flexible coupling, also used on many automotive drive shafts.

Here an extract from the industrial coupling supplier Centa:

"Based on a highly elastic rubber element subject only to compressive stress. Extremely high-performing design with high torsional elasticity. Dampens torsional vibrations and shocks and compensates considerable axial, radial and angular misalignments. Electrically insulating and thermally resistant in silicon design. For rupture-proof and backlash-free transmission of high torques. "

So i purchased an industrial "flexible coupling" in the right range and firmness and had a sleeve machined in the right size.

Only thing missing was the inside splines matching the Mercruiser shaft.
So we measure the old coupler under the Microscope and drafted a CAD drawing based on that layout.



Then had the splines cut by highly precise wire EDM.

The part turned out perfectly, shaft fits into the sleeve with just the right amount of friction and play.





I am ready now to finish the silicon rubber mounts, will test the boat in the next weeks with these new components under full throttle.
Cant wait to see if she glides...

Last edited by iddhi; October 27th, 2017 at 22:57.
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Old March 11th, 2015, 19:19   #70
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Impressive work!!
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Old March 11th, 2015, 22:43   #71
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Hi Vanbcguy,

read through the last pages of your build, like your VNT controller very much. What mileage do you get when cruising with your MTDI setup?

Still not sure if i will stick with the mechanical pump or go electronic.

Like the fact that i have so many safety features with the electronic version, could be especially important with a marine engine operation at WOT often.
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Old March 11th, 2015, 23:11   #72
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To be honest I haven't had a good "economy" run yet. Most of my driving has been around the city and has been somewhat... ah... spirited. I rarely manage to even go for groceries without having the pedal close to the floor at least once. Fuel consumption has been around 7.5 /100km with that type of driving. I have had one long highway run that was in the mid 5's though the engine was only about 2000 km old then so barely broken in. I'm doing a run down to Seattle this weekend, will see what kind of numbers I pull. I've definitely noticed her running nicer now that she's got some more miles on her, but I'm still only at about 10,000 km. I also have very large nozzles - HFLOX Warp 7s which are about a .275, bigger than R520s. My build was definitely not intended to get great mileage, unless you compare it to a gasser.

Safety wise I'd focus on good gauges, the VW computer won't do anything to tell you about low oil pressure, high coolant temperature or high EGTs which are the things that actually hurt an engine. It's more focused on emissions related things. Plus being out on the water and having electrical problems could prove deadly. I have a couple Auber Instruments gauges on mine monitoring oil pressure and temperature - they have a relay output than can be used to sound an alarm or even shut off the fuel if so desired. A trio of them hooked up to a decently loud alarm buzzer would provide excellent protection for your engine. The mechanical engine can basically be made to work in almost any circumstances other than a complete mechanical failure which makes it a good fit for the marine environment too. It's not likely to leave you stranded, whereas a drive by wire system never meant to be used on a boat.... Ehhhhhhh....

Since as you say you'll be spending most of your time at or near WOT you'd be better off with the simplicity and reliability of a wastegate turbo too. I do like my VNT but what it gives me is faster response time, something that I wouldn't see being all that important in a marine application. A bunch of folks over on vwdiesel.net have been running smaller Holset turbos which would be ideal for your application - modern turbos with modern efficiency and flow characteristics but still dead simple operation.

My VNT controller does have a second "N75" type valve connected between the intake and the LDA on my pump. When EGTs get high it progressively "hides" boost from my pump which in turn reduces fueling. Works quite well actually. The EGT management features again shouldn't be as much of an issue for you though, I built mine to be pushed to the ragged edge.
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Old March 11th, 2015, 23:36   #73
iddhi
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I totally agree on the simplicity point and having to much electronic stuff in the boat, but hey i want to learn it the hard way.
Already had much fun getting my dyno engine to run, playing with injection quantity.

I definitely will go with a wastegate turbo, have a GT25 installed, need the boost at higher RPM, dont care about torque.

The ECU (EDC15) has an engine safe feature monitoring oil temps, playing with that feature at the moment to monitor EGT's instead.

did you every Dyno your setup?
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Old March 12th, 2015, 08:38   #74
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Haven't been on the dyno yet no.

I've been gradually turning up the fuel as the engine has broken in. Didn't want to slam on a fresh build too hard.

I need to do some pump mods before I really get the full potential out of this engine too, the governor on the pump I'm using is currently set for only 4500 RPM, meaning fuel starts pulling off around 4K. Given that I've got upgraded internals, a bigger cam, etc I'm giving up a lot in the 4K-5.5K range right now. But like I said, been slowly easing in to things. I'm past the warranty period on my pump now so opening it up to change the governor springs isn't quite such a big deal.
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Old March 12th, 2015, 18:08   #75
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"It's not likely to leave you stranded, whereas a drive by wire system never meant to be used on a boat.... Ehhhhhhh...." Actually there are lots of new marine engines available that are drive by wire. I wouldn't be too concerned about the electronics in a marine environment. I have 8 years and 1400 hours on the pd in my boat with full electronics with no issues. I always carry a spare ecu and a handful of sensors on the boat just in case, but I have never needed any of them yet. Actually it's much easier to carry electronic spares than mechanical ones as they weigh almost nothing and don't take up much room. Really like your flexible coupler system.
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