2004 Allroad BHW Conversion

Allroads have their own funky final drive ratios, which is 4.375. This is different from a standard non-Allroad A6. As far as I know there is no TDI ratio 01E's with a 4.375 final drive. Frans gave me the option of a 4.11 or 3.89 final drive, however the 4.11 was a few hundred $$ cheaper. This required changing the rear diff to match the 01E, I found that 4.11 rear diffs were more plentiful in my area as they came in early 2.8 V6 A6's or 4 Motion B5 Passats.

There is an 01E TDI with the 4.375 final drive. That's what I am using on my allroad. It came from the UK from a 2.5TDI allroad. Inbox if you want more details.

stp359 said:

There is an 01E TDI with the 4.375 final drive. That's what I am using on my allroad. It came from the UK from a 2.5TDI allroad. Inbox if you want more details.

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What is the code?

EHT code

how did you deal with the air suspension and the abs module? It's stuck at level 1. I have the abs fault msg. Do I have to flash the ECU for a manual transmission first?

stp359 said:

EHT code

Click to expand...

So at 2000 RPM what are you showing for MPH?

Yes you need to reflash and do some coding with VCDS after you install the transmission.

vwztips said:

So at 2000 RPM what are you showing for MPH?

Yes you need to reflash and do some coding with VCDS after you install the transmission.

Click to expand...

-Thanks for the reply! I have to find out where to plug the ECU power wire... If I plug it to the A2 connection as shown on the diagrams, it doesn't shut off.

-About 2400 rpm at 75mph. I wanted to keep the 4.375 diff to keep my 1st/2nd gears low for pulling and some off-road. In my Passat 4motion I have an EKM gearbox which has a 0.56 6th gear and a 3.89 diff. At 75mph I'm at about 2100rpm.

stp359:

Are you using the original BHW power supply relay?

This is the BHW wiring diagram I had:




I just put a new VSS in hoping it would cure my cruise control, no dice. Measuring block 6 in vagcom shows the speed as 0 km/h when the car is in motion, I would think this is my issue.

Could anyone verify that an FCP code 01E would have a reluctor ring on the axle? Apparently they stopped adding them in the later years...

LukeWilson said:

stp359:

Are you using the original BHW power supply relay?

This is the BHW wiring diagram I had:

I just put a new VSS in hoping it would cure my cruise control, no dice. Measuring block 6 in vagcom shows the speed as 0 km/h when the car is in motion, I would think this is my issue.

Could anyone verify that an FCP code 01E would have a reluctor ring on the axle? Apparently they stopped adding them in the later years...

Click to expand...

-I'm using the BHW relay. On the wiring diagram the black wire from T94/18 goes to T10e/5 (orange connector) which connects to connection A2 or pin 50 on the ignition switch. If I do so the ecu doesn't shut off. I tried with a relay instead and it worked. I think that will be my solution.
- About the speed sensor I'll be able to tell you this week or next week.

Luke ask Frans. My bet is that it does not and relies on ABS. Only other thought is you do not have it wired to the proper location at the connectors.

Did you run a wire for the tach signal direct output (as opposed to the tach signal coming over the CAN bus)? Just thinking out loud as the ABS may need this for the speed signal output (shouldn't, but you never know). I needed this on my 2000 A6 so the AC would work.

Never mind, the relay method didn't really work out... How did you guys power up your ecu?

On the BHW wiring the orange connector T10E, position 5, goes to the ignition starter switch D15. On my 2000 A6 that same position (T10N-5) provides power to the injectors on the V6 motor via fuse 232. On the BHW side I left that wire alone as fuse 232 for the injectors is switched, therefore I get my switched power for the ECU.

The thing is when I plug the T10e/5 wire to D15 it doesn't shut off when I remove the key. When I disconnect it the lights stay on for a couple of seconds then turn off... I don't get any power on fuse 232. From what I see on the diagrams, it gets power from the fuel pump relay which has to be activated by the ecu... same for fuses 228 & 234. I find it really weird because on my passat I didn't even connect that wire and the ECU still gets power from somewhere...

Ok, a new discovery... When I remove fuse 7 for the ABS and plug T10n/5 to D15 everything works as it should. If I plug the fuse back, nothing shuts off when the key is removed... I can still connect to the ECU and the ABS module with VCDS

Problem solved. There is a difference in the brake switch harness between the tdi and the gasoline models. On the TDI version E45 (cruise control module) T10/3, F36/3 (clutch vacuum switch), F47/3(brake pedal switch) and J397 (relay for radiator fan after run) 6/85 are all plugged on the same connection (A15) going through T10e/8 (orange connector in ECU housing) to reach connection F25. F25 connects together N75/1 (wastegate bypass regulator valve), V157/2 (intake flap motor) and N79/1 (positive crankcase ventilation heating element).
On the Allroad, in the cabin, the connection is the same but with a different name (J9) except one wire. The fuse 7 wire going to the ABS module is on the same connection which is basically connected to D15.

Solution:

I ran a wire from fuse 7 straight to the ABS module. The wire going to the ABS module from J9 is on T17f/15 (Connector 17 pin, black, in 8-Fold Relay Panel behind the
storage driver’s side). It's a white wire. Just cut it and pass a new wire to T17f/15.

It's the same problem I have on the passat. It was a GLX V6 before the swap. I didn't have access to all the diagrams back then. It's the same wiring as the Allroad. Although, the ECU still gets power from somewhere without the T10e/5 wire.

Update:

E256/4 (ESP button) & G85 (steering angle sensor) 5/15a have to be added to the ABS module otherwise it jams and doesn't respond

What year AllRoad are you working on?

vwztips said:

What year AllRoad are you working on?

Click to expand...

allroad 2005. Can't post mgs shorter than 5 characters

Makes more sense now. I was looking at the schematics for a 2001. There are some differences between 2001 and 2005

Yes, they are a bit different. Btw what is the use of the T connectors on the fuel lines? I didn't use them and it seams to work fine. I didn't use them on the passat 4motion neither. It's been already 2 years since the swap.. no issue

When I tested the FP for the stock pump it was pushing 30-35 dead heading. I put the T in to reduce the pressure.

I left the gasser pump for a while in my swap and I am pretty sure that's what killed my tandem pump eventually (and cause strange no start and stalling issues for a while first). Then I just tore apart the gasser pump casing and inserted a BEW pump motor I bought from here http://www.defender-tech.com/category_s/40.htm

About three years and 60,000km on this system now and no problems.

It's weird because ETKA says there are only 3 pumps for the passat 2005 for north america. One for FWD cars, one for 4motion and one for W8. If you look at the fuel pumps without the plastic, they look the same. That's why I didn't bother putting the TDI pump in...

Fuel pumps part No.:
8E0 906 078 D -> FWD
8E0 906 078 E -> 4motion
3B7 906 078 B -> W8

About the tandum pump... Mine started leaking diesel in the oil not long ago. 70 000km after the swap. I don't know if these are related. I just bought a seals kit from ebay and replaced the broken seal between the fuel and the vacuum chamber.

Update:

My friend's BEW shows 40PSI. So I guess the 30-35 psi you were getting is normal.

The Allroad is finally on the road but has bloody vibration at low RPMs. I was wondering if you get that vibration until around 1600RPM as I used the same clutch kit as you(S2 PP, 2.5TDI disc and audi 80 flywheel). There is no chatter. Just that vibration is pissing me off

There is some vibration at low RPM's throughout the whole car. I think its a combination of deleting the balance shaft, no dual mass flywheel and maybe older engine/transmission mounts. I usually try and run around 2000 rpm as that's where I have more torque.

I was planning on replacing the mounts at some point and maybe adding some sound deadening.

Which gear box are you using and what is the final drive?

I have both a Passat with 5 speed FHN and AllRoad with a 6 speed DQS. I find I have to drive the AllRoad differently due to the additional weight. I can't lug the motor at low speed in the AR like I can in the Passat without experiencing vibration. It will pull it but I find it better to choose a lower gear just for a more pleasant driving experience.

That being said, I do have a larger turbo and stage 3 tune from TDTuning and the car moves quite well when I put my foot into it.

I'm using a gearbox from a 2.5TDI allroad from Europe. EHT code and a 4.375 final drive a 0.60 6th gear. If I keep the RPMs above 1600 there is no vibrations. To be honest the engine breaths better with the AR's transmission than what I have in the passat. It's from a 2.5TDI A6 EKM code with a 3.89 final drive and a 0.56 6th gear. However I don't have any vibrations in the passat but it has a stock dual mass 1.8t clutch

Well after almost 10,000kms trouble free, I'm having a strange issue.

Starts first crank as always, idles for 10-15 second and dies. Starts right up and does the same thing. If I press the throttle and hold it at 1500rpm, it will run with the occasional stutter. Let of the throttle, it will idle for a few seconds and die. It's gotten worse in the last couple days and will consistently die if idling.

There are no fault codes, seems to drive alright if I can avoid idling. The in-tank fuel pump is priming and running as it should.

I'm leaning towards the tandem pump, crank or cam sensor but would expect a code for the sensors.

Anyone have any ideas?