I followed this diy when I replaced my IP a few months ago. Worked well.
I did The timing belt a month or so before, so I just used the flywheel Tdc mark, long reach cam plate, and IP pin—no removal of the valve cover. Saves some labor.
I have the later fuel line pairing clips that unscrew, different than what is shown.
My tensioner tool was too fat with The motor mount still fully installed, so I used vice grips on the corners of the boss on the tensioner (what the holes are in) and tensioned it that way. Confirmed it worked first on my old tensioner before trying that on the car. Saved labor there too.
I followed Cool Air's prime and bleed method—remove banjo for return and apply vacuum there till the pump is full. Fuel injector connections need to be tight for this to work (ask me how I know). Then cracked loose all 4 injector connections and turned the car over a couple times with the key (rags to collect spraying fuel). Snugged them down, and she fired right up.
It's a little nerve-wracking not being able to see the timing belt on the crank sprocket, but it was fine. I just tugged both sides of the belt so I could feel it was seated correctly (no slip, fully engaged) when I reinstalled the cam sprocket & belt. No need to take all the timing covers off.