My almost ideal a4, b5 a4 alh quattro

Finally.........TDI quattro AUDI

I'm not sure when I was bit by the diesel bug but this has been a long time coming. I don't think i'm that needy of a person I mean all i wanted was a tdi, awd, manual(zf8-speed acceptable), and wagon (swing and a miss). But as I started searching I realized I'd have to build one.
My original plan was to buy a beater while I swapped my wagon but it became clear to me that downtime might be an issue and for the price I was willing to pay for a beater I did not want another rolling project so I started searching for shell.
I found one for a good price because it had a built engine and the owner couldn't sell it as a whole for the price he wanted to he started to part it out. I originally was picking up parts for my other car but I really like the idea of having a spare a4 I could take my time with and do things right on.
Here's the candidate, It no longer has this suspension, wheels, or external oil cooler but I still love it anyway.

I was looking for a b5 passat tdi engine but settled on an alh from an 02 jetta. I called my friend that works at a local yard and they found me a clean 150k mile jetta that had been rear ended. So while not ideal it would work great for my goals.
Enter my friend Jonathon, owner of quantum mechanics (https://www.facebook.com/VWQuantumMechanics?ref=br_tf), to fab up some mounts for me.
Passenger side:


Driver side:

A big shout out to Jonathon for getting mounts made, once the car made it back to my house I got to work and started making a FMIC kit and was going to use a rearward facing intake manifold (Obviously not pictured)


I ended up deciding against the FMIC due to complexity and not wanting to have more crap on both sides of the engine I opted for a passenger side mount from an s4. I will have to add an air temperature bung somewhere in the mix but i'm not to worried about it.

Finally........AWD TDI AUDI

Enter in the next issue with the car. It was drive by cable so I had to get it swapped around. FWIW the DBW cluter will bolt right in. The issue is the brake light switch set up can be and probably is a little different.
My original dbc set-up had 2 separate switches on the brake pedal and the dbw one switch.
here's my original:

A,B= clutch safety switch
C=cruise switch on clutch
E=cruise switch on brkae
D=Brake light signal switch on Brake pedal
Now FWIW the brake light switch and the cruise switch on the brake pedal each have 2 wires and the switch on the DBW set-up had 4. So it is probably the same but I didn't want to dabble in the wiring require so I modified the DBW pedal cluster to accept both the original switches (D and E)
STEP ONE: line up and bolt together

STEP TWO: drill holes and bolt together with good bolts. I used nylon locking nuts

This brings us to the pedal. The pedal cluster came from a 00 1.8t car and the pedal I needed is a 02 alh pedal.

Her'es what I did.

ok so A little back ground I am swapping my a4 to a tdi swap and I'm trying to keep everything as simple/stock as possible. You could say swap arms but trust me I tried that and they are NOT made to come off at least not easily so I opted for an alternative.
I not one for being long winded so I'll put a description and let the pictures do the talking.
Gas dbw pictured on left (from 00 1.8t), tdi on right (02 jetta). Now the jetta pedal will physically bot up but you'd have to put your knee to your chin to use the pedal

Labeled covers off, notice they are identical

Part numbers are the same


SIde by side comparison of the Covers, notice the bodies are the same.


The TDI pedal has green circuit board and the gas pedal has a brown. (In this instant anyway)

Up close view of the Circuit boards. If you follow the wires down from the connections you'll notice that they are very similar but not the same. Follow the number 6 circuit, the one most left one the screen. The circuit is what dictates what pedal is what and will cause problems if it is not changed!

Now that we know what face we are going to use, the one that matches the engine, it's time to move on to the pedal assembly it's self and make sure everything is the same.
TDI pedal: notice it is completely closed:

Gasser pedal: notice it does not have the same range of motion.

If we look back to the first picture again we'll notice the gas pedal (pictured on left) has a pretty hefty stop on it so we'll have to remedy that.

Like Jason Mraz I bring you the remedy

All gone

With the stop completely removed the back of the pedal hits the stop perfectly and in complete synchronicity with the contact arm in the housing.

Congrats You now a fully operational tdi pedal for your conversion.

Fin
A few bonus pics if you were curious,
pedal up

Pedal to the floor

Use extreme caution when around the contacts they are made of very small brittle wires, somewhere in the mix I bent one and had to swap arms. No worries though it is extremely easy, use a flat head and gently pry from multiple angels and the contact cover will pop off. It is keyed so you do not have to worry about getting it wrong.

Ok now the pedal cluster and the pedal are taken care of, The engine mounts are ready.

Now lets focus on the engine. The engine needed a longitudinal 1.8t pan to clear the subframe. The 1.8 pan will bolt right up however it has a turbo drain hole that the tdi does not use.


Enter Jonathon again and he welded hole shut:
Well after looking I do not have a picture but just know that it is welded shut and looks amazing.

Wiring........................................ugh wiring.

I wish I could say I was at the time brave enough to takle the wiring but I went through www.Fastforward.ca and he made a harness for me using my 1.8t aeb harness and my tdi harness.

It was plug and play and I would recommend him if you are looking for harness. I did have wire in all the wires to cruise control. I took my time and got it done.





Transmission: The v6 would be a good trans but the tdi trans is a little better. I pulled the engine out and put in a tdi 01a. Again no pictures but here's one of what an 01a looks like on the inside (b3 90 4:11 01a to be exact)

Here's how the car sits today:







Upgraded to a 3-spoke sport wheel while I was at it (price was right becuase it's for a tip car but I rather enjoy the PEW PEW PEW buttons.


I still have some ziptieing to do but for the time being i'm not messing with it until i'm it's ready to drive. I like to keep things easy access until I know it's ready and working.


Doesn't match but it works

I'd be contacting David @ FF if he built your harness. Surely he give some steps to check.

Well I wish I could say it was something serious and not my fault but it turns out I did not have the engine grounded. I cleaned up all the ground and grounded the passenger side ground directly to turbo vac actuator(temporary) and it started right up and all gauges worked(a testament to fastforwards.ca's work).

Needles to say i'm one happy guy tonight.

I still cannot get the vagcom to connect but I believe I have a few more grounds to check tomorrow on the inside of the car.

no vids right meow

But I did make some progress, Here we see the no link issue


Turns out the radio had a blown fuse, so i added new fuse and Voila it powered right up and even though it's safe mode I can now read connect to ecu

Only 5 codes, not to bad considering the ecu was powered up with absolutely note a single engine wire attached.

I was going to use this sweet ass s4 bumper but when I was at the yard pulling my pedal cluster out of a 00 a4 it also happened to be black and the bumper cover was in tact so I got it for $50 with fogs/grilles and lower valence(not pictured taken off for paint) So I guess I can say it was good day.


My new a4 bumper,

No as far as removing fuel pump I am a little confused as to what to do. I was going to run an H and use both pumps like others have done before me but now you guys have me 2nd guessing that.

Here's the H-line I made to mount to fuel lines in between hard lines on fire wall and fuel pump on engine.




And remember kids it's 100% ok to write on everything to remember where it goes or what it does.


I know ideally I should remove it and the wiring that goes along with it. Is it ok to just leave those wires in the tank, I'm worried because they sit directly in fuel.

Here's some crappy pictures.

Picture A:


Picture B:


Picture C:


Picture D:


That's all for today but here's a quick run down of my to do list
-Drain fuel again and give it away for someone to burn because aparently the rear tank still had fuel so it's mixed. ****ing rear saddles
-Fix axle boots
-add trans fluid
add air filter
-get parts from jonathon to finish coolant lines
-figure out intake routing
-weld in Intake air temp bump on post SMIC routing

Very cool swap. I love the b5. I used to have a stg3 s4. I've seen a swapped a4 tdi for sale once locally. In europe I saw a bunch of them. Lot's of 1.6l gassers too. b5's were plentiful there. Anyway, good luck with the swap!

Congratulations! Glad it was a simple fix.

Wow---I'm amazed and jealous....

Oil me, me too, I was at the "ton of work but no results phase and I tend to get stressed out"

Brian, thanks for the kind words


a little update:
Let's backtrack a little

I did the clutch install with the engine hanging on the engine hoist and here's how I did it. A little trick i used to use when wrenching on my hondas.

I see your fancy crank pulley tool and raise you a chain wrench, one of the best all around tools to have.


Ok now let's line up the clutch...............S#$T, the alignment tool was shipped broken in pieces and ain't nobody got time for that.

Fix: a Socket that fits snugly in the pilot bearing and some duck tape. I didn't come up with this idea but I do use it.


And in



Another little thing I do to keep from losing nuts in hard to reach places.
Here we can see there's a stud tucked way back in there. I could use great to help retain the nut in the socket but this is in my ecu case, I don't like wasting grease and why get dirty when you don't have to.


Supplies: socket,nut and piece of plastic bag


Twist piece of bag and wrap around nut:


Place in socket and it's good to go:

OK so here's my problem I was going to run the H line pictured above and the idea beind that is that excess fuel will return flow directly into return line but I am concerned that it wouldn't be able to handle how much my pump is pumping.

Eg. It pumped what you see here in about 35 seconds


So I listened to a few guys and did a pumpectomy.
Here's some picstures:
pump out

With the pump removed the pump pick-up filter does not attach to fuel line so I added my own version of one. Should have got a before and after but it was a flow through for a lawnmower.

Did a little trimming to open things up.


It didn't seem to want to stay down so I added some weight and temporally removed pick-up filter. (reason for removal below)

I am at a loss!!!! I had everything hooked up and I could not get fuel to the engine I have no idea what i'm doing at this point;( or maybe I just need some sleep either way.

But I ghetto got fuel to the engine and started it and let it run for a few. Great news, all the guages including tach work so i'm very optimistic that my cruise will work too. I had to run 9 wires just for the cruise so we'll see, 3 to the pedal cluster and 6 to the cruise stalk.

Talking is boring here's a picture:


and before I go to bed here's my 2nd Tool of the day (Zing)
Goodson super scraper. It's a carbide tipped ergonomic American crafted tool of greatness. I find myself using all the time.

PROGRESS!?

1. new air filter installed
2. Engine ground fixed and new cable installed
3. Confused about fuel system but I've decided when it comes time to add a lift pump i'd like to have it in-line, out of the tank and on the fire wall.

All right I took the H-out, Down the road I will add a lift pump or an inline lift pump but for now at stock power levels this will work just fine.

Progress today:
got the lines bleed to the pump and then to the injectors, I cheated though

So I drained some fuel into a bucket via my homemade gas siphon.

Let the tool do the work



Ended up getting a mighty vac used from a guy I bought some tools off of months ago, def a good connection he has all the bows, bikes and kayaks I would ever want!
How I got fuel to car
1. I used the mighty vac to push fuel from the connection on the fire wall to the tank. Def the way to do it if you car is bone dry
2. plug return line
3. I then pulled fuel back through that line up to the pump.
4. loosened all injectors and primed pump a few times till there was fuel and then tightened them down
5. reattach return line
6.GREAT SUCCESS


Installed new serpentine belt!


Enjoyed life! (technically this was last night but i'll be out again tonight) If you are wondering that's me on my 86 bianchi giro and that's my girlfriend on an 81 world sport i put together for her it's actually a really sweet mint color but it got washed out in this picture.

b5 a4 tdi AXLE BOLT QUESTIONS

Alright, I got my new axle boots on and everything is good to go, For the inner where the joint bolts to the transmission the original bolts are way to long.
1.Can I cut them down?
2. will grade 8 or 10 stainless hardware be fine as an oem substitute?
And and all help appreciated,
Chris

^^^Got it figured out

Anyways, other than a few SMIC bits going in this happened:

You guys look related

Subed!

Trans Filled

New slave installed, now How the hell do I bleed this thing? I've tried the pump method, the vacuum assist method and the 5min-1hr gravity method and I'm still getting nothing. Can I tap the reservoir lid and pressurize it.




EDIT:
after a little research I see a lot of people recommending a pressure bleeder. I do not have access to one at least not that I know of so I cut up an old bike tube that already had a hole in it and....well here's my new pressure bleeder.

Worst case scenario it doesn't work i'm not out anything and I can pick up a new cap at a yard.

Zombie thread back from the dead!

So I have had some trouble getting the damn stupid slave bleed so I put in a new slave and master and that did the trick! I found out audi reservoirs come from the factory with the drain hold molded shut so you have to pull the hose off and cut the end off to open it up. Kind of a weird thing IMO but whatever it was a headache but now it's fixed.

New sachs master: Who needs yoga when you could change one of these awkwardly placed gadgets


mk5 TB facing IM came in so now I just have to figure out another race pipe for it because the one for the pd150 is not the same bolt pattern. SHouldn't be too difficult. Also I need to get the IAT sensor mount welded in. On a good note though I have the intercooler piping figured out.




I need to figure something out for this hole the stock rubber is not correct for the tdi maf. I was thinking of just finding another carbonio intake down the road or just fiberglass over it IDK yet.


GOOD NEWS THOUGH!!!! the car made it out of the garage today under it's own power! and the clutch etc work fine. And Don't worry it was just idiling!




300d should be leaving tomorrow!



Also every time my sister has came to visit my car has got a new tattoo FML
eg,

This project is headed in an excellent direction. If you get this done by the end of september go to H20i. I'd love to see b5 swap in person. I have wanted to do one for a long time, but always find huge obstacles keeping me from attempting it.

I like the mounts, but is there a reason why you didn't just use the 1.8t ones? I believe the accessory bracket needs to be modified a little bit if going that route.
Nice project, it will be fun to drive once you get it to 100%.