Post Timing Belt Change - STALL

So I tried starting my Jetta with the cam sprocket in several different settings within the three slots without luck.
Could you please tell me if you know of a way to check TDC without removing everything to get to the crank sprocket?

Is there not a timing mark on the flywheel? Under a pull-out rubber cover a bit clockwise from the starter hole( starter about 10:00, and that plug is around 12:00 ), give or take...

To make sure you have the right TDC, you will see the No.1 cam lobes pointing away from their lifters.
cheers,
Douglas

You've got two ways to check TDC. The flywheel mark is the usual culprit, and I hope you verified that it was correct the first time.


There's also a notch on the rim of the harmonic balancer that aligns with a dimple on the sheet metal that should be about 15º toward the back of the car at cylinder #1 TDC... this one is much less accurate but should get you in the neighborhood.


Being able to use Google is your friend... search for "site:forums.tdiclub.com secondary TDC mark" and you'll find this very quickly - http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=209130

Page 15e-17 of my Bentley shows two ears on the cam sprocket hub lining up with an arrow marked 4Z on the rear section of the timing belt guard. IIRC these ears are spaced differently from the others.

JB05 said:

Page 15e-17 of my Bentley shows two ears on the cam sprocket hub lining up with an arrow marked 4Z on the rear section of the timing belt guard. IIRC these ears are spaced differently from the others.

Click to expand...

Page 5, image #18 in this guide:

https://www.blauparts.com/vw_timing...tdi_vw_timing_belt_installation_guide_bew.pdf

All done guys ?! Followed the awesome how to on the forum and payed very close attention to your instructions Mike. Finished it this morning.
Thank you very much!

Glad to hear it worked out!

Update

So I finally got my car inspected then drove it around for a little with no problems. I picked out daughter up from the bus and headed out to run errands..the car died as I was crossing the highway. I tried restarting, it cranked fine but wouldn't run. The tach was acting goofy as I was trying to start up too. Then the glowplug starts flashing. I put the reader (not vagcom) on it and got the following;
P2637
P0725
P0727

I cleared them ant tried restarting. I was unsuccessful. I called for a buddy to help tow me home. And tried restarting again..it worked! I got home (about a mile) and the car died with all the codes again as I was backing in the driveway. It wouldn't restart.

Several hours later I had my wife try again and it worked.
I'm thinking I have a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor. One is being delivered today and I hope it's a pretty quick install. Is it possible this is what has been plaguing me the whole time (but without codes)!?

Am I headed down the right path?

Thanks In Advance!

I think it’s your crankshaft position sensor, not camshaft position. (Two different sensors)

Googling the trouble codes, the last two seem to relate to engine speed.

It can run without a camshaft position sensor, but would take longer to start because the computer needs more cranks to figure out what the engine is doing.

The crankshaft position sensor however, is not optional. It won’t run without that. There have been many posts about the wiring going bad on those. Also people say to only use an OEM sensor from VW. Apparently aftermarket ones sometimes don’t work.

The crank sensor is located on the engine block, close to the transmission, and lower down, sort of in the vicinity of the starter motor. The connector for it is up near the one for the camshaft position sensor. The two plugs are kind of up behind the round vacuum reservoir. You should be able to follow the wire down to the crank sensor.

It would be great if you could find a damaged wire that was easy to fix. I bet it’s more likely the wiring rather than the sensor, but if you can’t find any obvious damage then you might have to replace the sensor. There could even be damaged wiring up-stream of the connector where it plugs in.

With the car running, you could try wiggling the wire in various locations and see if it makes the engine stop. Good luck. Hope you find something!

The wire/(wires? ) Are definitely the culprit! With the car running I wheel to the front and apply slight pressure to the wire near the gray connector and the car turns off. So as you said the sensor is fine...now just have to find the problem with the wire.
Is it easier to just replace it? If I remove the sensor will fluids come out? I haven't got on the ground to look at the sensor yet .
I tried attaching a short video BUT am not allowed to for some reason

It sounds like the wire/cable you mention is part of the crank sensor itself. I too had the wiring problem on my sensor. It started when I moved the crank sensor cable out of the way to change my t-stat. Those three wires inside the cable are very thin, .5mm IIRC, and live in a very hot environment.

I don’t think fluids will leak out if you remove the sensor. When the engine isn’t running all the oil drains down into the oil pan. The sensor is above that, in the block.

Maybe you can remove it and try to see if you can find damage to the wire or connector.

I’ve never taken mine out so I can’t be much help there. I’ve never even unplugged it.

Hope you get it fixed.

The new crank sensor is in. It was extremely easy to install. Everything seems to be working well. Who knows if this was the issue every time or if I messed up the timing belt job the first two times ??- I've read in a few places they show they are broken once warm..that would explain running for thirty minutes the first two times.

We'll anyways, thanks again to you all for your help. Especially Mike!

9saunders9 said:

The new crank sensor is in. It was extremely easy to install. Everything seems to be working well. Who knows if this was the issue every time or if I messed up the timing belt job the first two times ??- I've read in a few places they show they are broken once warm..that would explain running for thirty minutes the first two times.
We'll anyways, thanks again to you all for your help. Especially Mike!

Click to expand...

I've seen electrical components that fail after warming up.
Your sensor may have had that problem.

It looks like you could have had more than one problem, which can always complicate the diagnosis.

You had the three bolts at the end of their slotted holes in the cam sprocket, so there was an issue with the timing belt. That was worth correcting anyway. It may or may not have been the reason the engine wouldn’t run.

Anyway, glad you’ve got it running now. Hopefully you won’t have to do much work on it for a long time to come!