Seeking buyer's advice on a 112k mile 2006 Jetta

I currently DD a B4 that I've put 120k miles on, so I'm only a bit familiar with the PD. My wife had her Subaru totaled out, and we decided to buy her a TDI we can both drive on vacation instead of my rattly 5-banger.

Currently waiting on maintenance records for a 2006 Jetta with 112k miles. Advertised as an elderly-owned Florida car with no rust and very clean. Good vehicle history report. Asking $5600. (It really is VERY clean)

This car is two-owner, counting the guy who bought it at an equipment auction and drove it to KY a few months ago. I would think given the history that the TB has already been done around the 80-90k mark, and the transmission has been maintained. I'd also think the cam still has a lot of life left it in, but I could be wrong.

If the transmission and timing belt have been recently serviced and still have a lot of miles, I don't think the price is too far off in its condition. Are there any other factors I should be considering? I only have a KII-USB, and IIRC I need a CAN interface for this car.

Here is my maintenance list from when I had my 06 Jetta 5 spd. Love that car and my buddy still drives it. Take special note of the camshaft issue the BRM has.

140,000 Timing Belt Kit
140,000 Fuel Filter
146,000 front summer tires 90,000 tire
147,000 Fuel Filter and Diesel Purge
4/6/2014 brake flush
147,611 drain plug oil change
147,611 change manual trans fluid
150,000 roughly, put in g070 tranny fluid, rear hubs (dura), rear brakes
Oil change when odometer didn't work
163,500 front pads and rotors element 3
166,332 Pella oil change and fuel filter change
168,000 engine air filter
169,470 ID parts billet cam, black lifters, cam bearings, bolts, cabin air filter, break in oil added, cam seal rubber spring type, serp belt, dayco timing belt
169,861 drain pan oil change
175,000 new darkside turbo gtb1749v, egr delete, downpipe
179,500 drain pan oil change
180,000 Michelin defenders on front
186,787 new fuel filter
189,700 pella oil change m1 tdt
195,000 new small cooling fan
198,978 pella oil change and air
205,803 replaced the 3 EGR orings
206,574 new fuel filter
208,921 pella oil change
213,620 rear BCA hubs perfect stop by Bosch pads perfect stop rotors
215,721 new alt pulley OEM INA
215,800 new stabilus truck shocks
215,900 alignment 4 wheel
216,083 conti extreme contact dws06 all 4
216,500 inspected cam for wear, cam lobes all look good, passenger side injector roller has a scratch around the middle.
218,846 drain pan oil change
220,547 timing belt water pump idler tensioner. Serp tensioner, thermostat, therm housing, serp belt, cam seal ptfe,
227,032 cabin air filter
228,400 diesel purge 2 cans
229,109 oil change pella, fuel filter, air filter
236,020 front sway bar links TRW
238,600 blower motor 4 seasons
239,028 pella oil change
239,090 tire rotation
240,098 Valeo blower motor
249,078 oil change pella & fuel filter
257,350 cv axles tracmotive, front pads and rotors DFC
257,600 GKN axles, bca front hubs, KYB front struts, mounts, and boots, all 4 brake hoses, Mann air filter, all 4 xtreme vision headlights, TRW front sway bar links
2/10/2018 flushed brakes and clutch lines with pentosin dot4lv
258,208 drain pan oil change, tranny fluid change g0700
259,000 rear shocks KYB
259,289 rear springs and seats, front lower control arms lemforder
259,298 alignment
268,287 oil and fuel filter
270,100 Replaced RCV and charged AC
274,430 replace front right lower control arm, Dorman, lemforder failed
274,450 alignment, rotate
278,425 oil change, air filter
























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So it might have another 50k in the Cam. Fine by me, if I buy this car it will be driven minimally except maybe a single 2,000 mile trip every year or so.

The most financially significant issues with the brms from my personal experience and research are the CAM and tranny flywheel.

Both can occur anytime after 100k. Try to verify the correct oil was used. The CAM can be killed earlier by incorrect oil. The dmf starts making some characteristic noises before it totally goes (search). It can take out some other expensive bits if the noises are ignored too long.

Would also confirm or do the TB if you purchase.

I really liked my A5. A very nice car

Alternatively, there is also a 200k mile car for $4300.

Replaced the TB, flywheel, and trans fluid all at 130k. (Yes, that's the last time the tranny was serviced.) No cam work, but has new brakes, struts, and EGR cooler. TB only has another 10k in it.

In my opinion the “correct oil” recommend by VW is the wrong oil. I recommend something with more zinc since it is a flat tappet motor. Only way to tell anything about the cam is to pull the valve cover. Miles aren’t a good indicator. Also EGR cooler is a recurring problem on the BRM, but I removed it so it wasn’t a problem for me.


Edit: I personally think the MKV VWs are some of the finest vehicles around. I have a 15 golf TDI and I miss my MKV Jetta.

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So I may have to replace the cam in either of these cars at any time. Probably more likely on the 200k car though, at least a lot more urgently.

The more expensive car may need a DMF, possibly other stuff. I definitely do not like the thought of dropping the transmission. I do like the thought of less carbon buildup.

Is an EGR/DPF delete easy for these cars, or would turning it almost all the way off with VCDS be an option?

Mk5 wise only 09 and 10 my have dpf
For a 06 the egr delete requires reflashing the ecu with an "off road" tune since egr is part of emissions system. Removal w/o the tune will still allow the car to be functional but expect a check engine light

I'm honestly starting to get a little overwhelmed with all the prevailing issues these cars seem to have. Seems like it doesn't matter which car I go with, I'll probably have to at least do:

DMF - $500 in parts
DSG service - $60-$130
TB - $400?
Cam - $600

So another $1600 in maintenance on top of whatever else I have to do (brakes, axles, etc). Hopefully these wouldn't need to all be done at the same time though.

Is $7000 too much money to have in one of these cars with 112k miles if all the above is addressed? I mean, I'm a dummy and sunk over $9k into my B4. It's been a great car for the last 120k miles though.


Now I'm eyeballing a 170k mile car that needs a starter and EGR cleanout for $1800. This seems more my speed, especially if I have to do all that other stuff anyway.

The prices you are seeing are high compared to what I see up here in the rust belt but they are lower mileage than the ones I looked at as well.

Up here they tend to be about $3 - 4k. But would have at least some rust and 250k or more.

The one I owned had 300k when I bought it and had the CAM and dmf already replaced.

Yes- I should have clarified when I said CORRECT oil I meant one of the 5/40 full synthetic oils recommended in these forums for the brm. Not necessarily what vw recommended.

To me, everything better be PERFECT and not needing replacement at that price. I don’t care how clean it is, if it needs cam work, flywheel and General servicing I’m not paying a penny over $3k. And it better be insanely clean for that.

Is it a package 1 or package 2? Package 2 has memory seats. That’s an easy way to tell.

I prefer to get something with as low of miles as I can for my price range, Im repeatedly reading that we can get 200-300k without issue but I still rather buy as low of miles as I can

banshee365 said:

To me, everything better be PERFECT and not needing replacement at that price. I don’t care how clean it is, if it needs cam work, flywheel and General servicing I’m not paying a penny over $3k. And it better be insanely clean for that.

Is it a package 1 or package 2? Package 2 has memory seats. That’s an easy way to tell.

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Exactly. The guy called me back and couldn't find answers for my maintenance questions. Pass.

I'm talking more to the guy with the $1800 car. I'll just fix everything myself and have less money in it when it's over.

That’s how I feel. I’d rather have a lower initial outlay for price and fix things myself. I guarantee my work to me. And the parts will be new. As well as the car will get a complete once over. I picked up an 06 BRM Jetta with DSG that needed a cam for $1k. Drove it on the trailer. 1200 in parts for all of the maintenance and repairs. Still way ahead.

It also depends on your priorities. I prefer cars that have a nice body, interior and do not need any body work(that might not matter to other people). Since I do the work myself, mechanical work is a lot cheaper to do right than body work. Even with having to replace a bearing or possibly replacing my DSG, I have no regrets.

Jbwoo said:

That’s how I feel. I’d rather have a lower initial outlay for price and fix things myself. I guarantee my work to me. And the parts will be new. As well as the car will get a complete once over. I picked up an 06 BRM Jetta with DSG that needed a cam for $1k. Drove it on the trailer. 1200 in parts for all of the maintenance and repairs. Still way ahead.

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crazyrunner33 said:

It also depends on your priorities. I prefer cars that have a nice body, interior and do not need any body work(that might not matter to other people). Since I do the work myself, mechanical work is a lot cheaper to do right than body work. Even with having to replace a bearing or possibly replacing my DSG, I have no regrets.

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I agree with both of you guys entirely. Unfortunately, the $1800 car didn't work out yesterday. Told me it had been sitting for about two weeks, he had previously DD'd it with no trouble. I get there and can tell the photos were intentionally leaving out certain damage to the car. The interior was FILTHY. There was no lock cylinder on the door, the fuel cap was missing and had a rag stuck in it. The fuel door was broken loose because the wiring harness in the driver's door was fried.

He put a battery on it and it wouldn't crank, even by tapping the solenoid with a hammer (as he told me that's the only way it would start). He left for 45 minutes to get a new starter, we install it, this time it cranks but won't hit a lick. Glow plug light doesn't come on, gear indicator lights are flashing. Long story short, I spent four hours at his place trying to get it running with no avail. I had a spare ECU relay for my B4, but couldn't find any info on the forum with my phone whether an A5 actually has an ECU relay or not, and where I would find it. I pulled all the relays under the steering wheel and none of them looked like what I had.

To top it off, the intake was full of oil and he told me it blows smoke because the EGR is so clogged up. Even if he gives me the battery and starter for free, I don't think I can shell out $1800 for it. He thinks he'll take it to his "VW Buddy" to get it going, but if he does that he pretty much said he'll have to sell it for more than $1800 at that point. My Hex-Can VCDS is coming in the mail today, but I really don't want to waste another 4-6 hours on it with the possibility of not getting it running. I think I'm over it.

The $4300 200k mile car is getting sold. The only other A5 within 6 hours drive of me is this car. I'm posting it because I'm pretty sure none of you guys will buy it for that price!

I called this dude again last night. Told him with it needing a timing kit and camshaft in the near future, I could offer $4500. (he couldn't find any of the PO records at all) The best we could figure out is that he'd be willing to buy the best timing kit for it on the market and sell it to me that way for his asking price.

At this point, I'll have at least $6000 in an A5. OR - I could spend $8000 out of the gate on a 2012/2013 A6 with 95k miles and not have to worry about maintenance for a while. And have a newer car to boot.

$1800 no-start guy got back to me. Said he'd haul it to me for $1750. Still iffy.

I’d say no. I have bought 2 of the 2006 Jettas. Both were 5 speeds but they both ran perfectly. They were higher mileage (about 250k) but I paid $2000 for one and $1800 for the other. We have 4 drivers in our household and both of them still get driven almost every day. I’ve done some work on both of course but one now has 310,000 miles and the other one has 290,000. You can find a running car in decent condition for $2000 so I’d hold out or go super low ball ($1000) but I wouldn’t pay $1750 in that condition.

If he has to tow it to you, don't offer more than $500. Something better will come along.

Bro, listen. I’m going to be brutally honest here. I’ve been there with many many cars and the same situation you’re in. Let me tell you this; I wouldn’t take that $1,800 car for $FREE.99 delivered to my door. That is just a no-brainer man. I think you are in a spot where I have found myself in the past. You’ve got the cash and want the find the right car now. Just wait a little. The right one will literally fall in your lap.

Use Searchtempest.com to search all the Craigslist around you and also Facebook marketplace. That’s all you need. If you spend over $2,000 that car better be jam up tight. I always go for straight body, no wrecks, pretty good paint and signs that the owner actually gave a damn about the car. The best ones I’ve found are people that took meticulous care of the car until something very expensive broke and it’s no longer worth fixing to them. My latest BRM acquisition had a turbo failure diagnosis. I bought it off the dealer lot after finding it on CL for $900. The problem was the EGR valve. I’ve since did the cam and other odds and ends as they have come up but the car was well taken care of and is pretty straight so it’s more than worth it for me for the cost of parts.

Guys, thanks so much so all the input.

I'm definitely passing on the car. Guess he'll have to part it out himself or wait for somebody else to buy it.

banshee365 said:

I wouldn’t take that $1,800 car for $FREE.99 delivered to my door.

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That’s exactly right. Sometimes even a free car is too expensive.

MrBigTruck said:

That’s exactly right. Sometimes even a free car is too expensive.

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They certainly can be. That one doesn’t sound like it has very many good parts. Total waste of time.