New 1 Micron 100% Sythetic Microglass Fuel Filter

Justin hit the nail on the head. I still need someone with an A5 in the area to let me mock up a prototype bracket..

anyone interested?

MAW said:

Any chance you will be making a kit for the A5's?

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I'm more then willing to guinea pig one of these units way up north (Edmonton, Alberta) If it doesn't freeze up in the winters here I think there being no thermostatic T is definitely a non issue.

Otherwise I will buy a kit in a few weeks when I have some money and report the results anyway.

ndamico said:

Hopefully the first prototype bracket will be done soon. We had to make a drawing and figure out how to best punch & brake it. Don't worry I haven't forgot about ya! I really appreciate you taking the time to bring your beetle over.

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I'm not worried, just anxious. Haha. It was no trouble at all, in fact, quite a pleasant experience.

superskid said:

I'm more then willing to guinea pig one of these units way up north (Edmonton, Alberta) If it doesn't freeze up in the winters here I think there being no thermostatic T is definitely a non issue.

Otherwise I will buy a kit in a few weeks when I have some money and report the results anyway.

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That's a good idea. But, with the proper winterized fuel there shouldn't be freezing with ANY filter as long as it doesn't have water in it right?

Farfromovin said:

That's a good idea. But, with the proper winterized fuel there shouldn't be freezing with ANY filter as long as it doesn't have water in it right?

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Since when do they winterize fuels in Canada?

dumhic said:

Since when do they winterize fuels in Canada?

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Every year.

The first version of the beetle bracket is ready for a test fit

Sets_Chaos said:

I'm not worried, just anxious. Haha. It was no trouble at all, in fact, quite a pleasant experience.

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ooh baby any pics!

Tomorrow there should be if all goes well!

oldpoopie said:

ooh baby any pics!

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Beetle brackets are done and fit well! Pics to follow

Here are the New Beetle Pics. Installation is very easy as is element replacement. You can click on each image for a larger version showing there is clearance on the headlight bucket as well as the intercooler pipe.

Special thank you goes out to Sets_Chaos for bringing his beetle by twice for me to work on the install. He's the Nicktane Uber Filter Beetle Install #1

The website has been updated so when you go to order the kit there is an option for Jetta/Golf or New Beetle.

Now i just need someone to bring an A5 by and I'll get those done as well.



New Beetle Installed


New Beetle Headlight Clearance


New Beetle Bracket


New Beetle Intercooler Pipe Clearance

Ordered mine today. The fluted design with the accompanying wrench was the big selling point.

Ordered mine yesterday in "porsche caliper red"

I just ordered this for my 2002 Golf. Some questions:

1) How is it possible to remove the Cat2 nipple and replace it with the Duramax nipple? I don't see any wrench fittings.
2) Is there an instructional PDF or video for installation on an A4/VE Golf?
3) How does one remove the OEM filter bracket?
4) Are there any new holes to be drilled, or does the new bracket use existing holes?

tstoehr said:

I just ordered this for my 2002 Golf. Some questions:

1) How is it possible to remove the Cat2 nipple and replace it with the Duramax nipple? I don't see any wrench fittings.
2) Is there an instructional PDF or video for installation on an A4/VE Golf?
3) How does one remove the OEM filter bracket?
4) Are there any new holes to be drilled, or does the new bracket use existing holes?

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I don't have the Nicktane filter, but it appears that most of your questions will answer themselves once you have the product in your hands.

tstoehr said:

I just ordered this for my 2002 Golf. Some questions:

1) How is it possible to remove the Cat2 nipple and replace it with the Duramax nipple? I don't see any wrench fittings.
2) Is there an instructional PDF or video for installation on an A4/VE Golf?
3) How does one remove the OEM filter bracket?
4) Are there any new holes to be drilled, or does the new bracket use existing holes?

Click to expand...

1) Nick does this. I'm sure if you wanted both styles you could pay extra for it.
2) Nope, just pictures on his website. It will all fall into place when you get under the hood.
3) two bolts
4) the two bolts removed in 3) are the same holes that you use for the bracket. The bracket comes with bolts and nuts- it's a little tight underneath that lip, but do-able

So, if you're reading this Nick, would it be possible to tack the two nuts to the bracket or make a threaded bracket? It would make installation easier. Just an idea... If I had dropped one of the nuts under the washer bottle area or down in the fender that would have really sucked...

Good answers

1) yes there are 2 different nipples. they screw into the underside of the filter head- unscrew one and screw the other one in and that's it.

2) Oldpoopie is supposed to be working on them but if you can change your stock filter its basically very easy.

4) no drilling required. car can be put back to stock no problem if you wanted to move it to your next TDI.

I'd thought about threading the bracket. 2 problems- first is that i'd probably need to make it thicker to get enough threads to hold it tight. if i were to tap it and someone got over-zealous with the bolt they could strip it out. with nylon lock nuts if you managed to strip one you could just replace it.

Tacking was also something i considered but it would add a fair amount more labor to the manufacturing and increase cost. i've never had a problem installing one and i don't have tiny hands either.

Farfromovin said:

1) Nick does this. I'm sure if you wanted both styles you could pay extra for it.
2) Nope, just pictures on his website. It will all fall into place when you get under the hood.
3) two bolts
4) the two bolts removed in 3) are the same holes that you use for the bracket. The bracket comes with bolts and nuts- it's a little tight underneath that lip, but do-able

So, if you're reading this Nick, would it be possible to tack the two nuts to the bracket or make a threaded bracket? It would make installation easier. Just an idea... If I had dropped one of the nuts under the washer bottle area or down in the fender that would have really sucked...

Click to expand...

I just put a wrag in the area below in case of a nut drop. Then a bit of spray adhesive on the finger to hold the nut and stick it down in the area of the protruding bolt...bing, contact made, tighten down. I really like the flats on the head, makes the tightening down of the filter and the banjo bolts an easy task.

> 1) yes there are 2 different nipples. they screw into the underside
> of the filter head- unscrew one and screw the other one in and that's it.

I'm assuming it would take some serious torque to remove the nipple. Grabbing the threads with vice-grips would accomplish the task but ruin the nipple threads. What's the real procedure? Is there a hex head at the top of the threads that I just can't see in the pictures? Maybe under the o-ring?

More questions I thought of:
1) Do the banjo bolts come pre-tightened to the proper torque?
2) Can the hose clamps that secure the filter be loosened/tightened while the whole assembly is fully in place?

Thanks to all.

I placed my order yesterday, and Fedex says it's coming tomorrow. Very nice. I was figuring it wouldn't come til Monday. Now I can do the install on my Friday off.

i don't know what you define as serious torque but it is standard thread (not NPT) with a drop of blue locktite. its not a press fit or anything. i think it will become clear when you look at the pictures or go to change the element the first time.

1 ) no they don't because you may want to orient them in a particular way to your liking. tighten to about 11 ft/lbs. using the wrench to the hold the head in place. the wrench is meant for this.

2 ) yes. that's how you take the filter out to replace it. when i remove from my car i loosen the 2 clamps with a 5/16 nut driver, remove the 2 banjos and lift the whole thing out. i never touch the bracket.

the filter comes greased and tightened on the filter head so all you need to do is tighten the banjos. i do my best to orient the clamps correctly so you get an idea of where they should point. Do NOT make the clamps holding the filter super tight. they don't need to be. there is lots of surface area. "just snug" is more than enough.

tstoehr said:

I'm assuming it would take some serious torque to remove the nipple. Grabbing the threads with vice-grips would accomplish the task but ruin the nipple threads. What's the real procedure? Is there a hex head at the top of the threads that I just can't see in the pictures? Maybe under the o-ring?

More questions I thought of:
1) Do the banjo bolts come pre-tightened to the proper torque?
2) Can the hose clamps that secure the filter be loosened/tightened while the whole assembly is fully in place?

Thanks to all.

I placed my order yesterday, and Fedex says it's coming tomorrow. Very nice. I was figuring it wouldn't come til Monday. Now I can do the install on my Friday off.

Click to expand...

> the filter comes greased and tightened on the filter head so all
> you need to do is tighten the banjos.

Sorry to be a nuisance... but I have to fill the filter full of diesel in order to prime it for operation. If the filter is attached, the only option is to fill it thru where the banjo bolts are. So I have to remove the banjo bolts for every filter change. Do I have to replace the crush washers for each filter change?

Use a Mity-Vac or other fluid extractor on the fuel supply banjo to draw fuel from the tank. This is really the proper way to do it. If you simply fill the filter with diesel by hand, the fuel is unfiltered when it gets to your pump/injectors.

tstoehr said:

> the filter comes greased and tightened on the filter head so all
> you need to do is tighten the banjos.

Sorry to be a nuisance... but I have to fill the filter full of diesel in order to prime it for operation. If the filter is attached, the only option is to fill it thru where the banjo bolts are. So I have to remove the banjo bolts for every filter change. Do I have to replace the crush washers for each filter change?

Click to expand...

> Use a Mity-Vac or other fluid extractor on the fuel supply banjo
> to draw fuel from the tank. This is really the proper way to do it.
> If you simply fill the filter with diesel by hand, the fuel is unfiltered
> when it gets to your pump/injectors.

Yes, that does sound logical. Interesting. I wonder if my Pela 2000 has enough "pull" to do this. One way to find out.

Lex4TDI4Life said:

Use a Mity-Vac or other fluid extractor on the fuel supply banjo to draw fuel from the tank. This is really the proper way to do it. If you simply fill the filter with diesel by hand, the fuel is unfiltered when it gets to your pump/injectors.

Click to expand...

I love the lift pump

I am tempted, but my stock clutch is fine right now and I'd rather not replace it until I absolutely must.

delvi__acevedo said:

I love the lift pump

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Lex4TDI4Life said:

I am tempted, but my stock clutch is fine right now and I'd rather not replace it until I absolutely must.

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you will be ok, it makes the diference in the high RPM area, not too much on the low rpm/ torquie are.

i prefer to remove the banjo bolts vs. taking the fuel line off the barb fittings.. much quicker.

You should replace the crush washers every time you take the banjo bolt loose. You can get them from me or elsewhere. they are only a few bucks for a set of 4.

as others have said mitty-vac or lift pump is the easiest way. you can pre-fill the filter through the banjo hole if necessary- just make sure you fill it through the outer one so the fuel will go into the "dirty side" of the filter.

tstoehr said:

> the filter comes greased and tightened on the filter head so all
> you need to do is tighten the banjos.

Sorry to be a nuisance... but I have to fill the filter full of diesel in order to prime it for operation. If the filter is attached, the only option is to fill it thru where the banjo bolts are. So I have to remove the banjo bolts for every filter change. Do I have to replace the crush washers for each filter change?

Click to expand...

tstoehr said:

> Use a Mity-Vac or other fluid extractor on the fuel supply banjo
> to draw fuel from the tank. This is really the proper way to do it.
> If you simply fill the filter with diesel by hand, the fuel is unfiltered
> when it gets to your pump/injectors.

Yes, that does sound logical. Interesting. I wonder if my Pela 2000 has enough "pull" to do this. One way to find out.

Click to expand...

Absolutely. I reccomend getting a vac-pump of some sort to prime the filter to EVERYONE. Its a way easeir and cleaner way to prime the filter. Absolutely surefire every time.

oldpoopie said:

Absolutely. I reccomend getting a vac-pump of some sort to prime the filter to EVERYONE. Its a way easeir and cleaner way to prime the filter. Absolutely surefire every time.

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and as far as replacing the filter I don't see a problem taking the hoses off everytime since I been doing that with the OEM filter all alone and not by choice

So Nick, you wrote:
You should replace the crush washers every time you take the banjo bolt loose. You can get them from me or elsewhere. they are only a few bucks for a set of 4.

What size are the crush washers? Can probably find locally given the size.