1999 Jeep cherokee, ALH swap

I am currently in the process of swapping a ALH motor from a 2000 jetta into a 1999 jeep cherokee.

I have the motor installed into the Cherokee, adapter plates made up, motor mounts fabricated, everything mechanical is pretty much wrapped up. (Will post pictures in the next few days)

The ALH motor was a good runner before I pulled it out of the mk4, and I have researched through all the swaps I can find, in addition to spending hours reading through the bentley manual.
Kerma TDI did a immobolizer, socket, and chip for me, so essentially from my understanding, I only have a few wires to hook up in the ecm to the jeep.

This is what i have so far.

12v constant supplied to pins T121/1&2
Ground supplied to pins T121/4&5
Keyed Power from jeep supplied to T121/37
Keyed Power from jeep supplied to T121/88
I have keyed power supplied to T10f/5 (N146 quantity adjuster)
I have keyed power supplied to T10f/10 (N108 cold-start injector)
I have T10h Connector unmolested running to the gas pedal
I Have G28 & G80 unmolested running straight from the sensors to the ecm
I have the G62 unmolested running from the ect to the ecm
I have map unmolested running from sensor to ecm
I have both G70 and N75 running from sensor to ecm, in addition keyed power being supplied to T5/2

I have primed the IP via vacuum on the return line, I have cracked and bled the injector lines and can see pulsing from them.

The motor will not start.
It will crank all day long, but not catch.
I recently ordered rosstech vcds, so i should be able to pull codes in a few days, but i believe the problem lies in the quantity adjuster, I have 12v being supplied to both sides of the t10f connector for it. As in both from the jeep and from the ecu.

Currently I have the motor trying to run from a can, I've yet to address the difference in fuel pressure off the gasser tank vs. the 3lbs needed for the ALH
The timing should be the same as when i pulled the motor out, I have yet to change the belt.

What is the voltage supposed to be coming from the ecm T121/116&121?

And any help anyone could offer would be of great value, I'm at my wits end trying to sort the electrical out on this motor, It all looks relatively simple but yet, does not work.
Thanks
-Josh-

what do you have hooked to pin 18 blue/yellow? ....everything else looks kosher...but if 18 of 121 does not see a relay 109 or similar it will not start period...not saying you don't have it hooked up but you have all the other bare necessities identified just not pin 18....

I appologize , I have keyed power supplied to T121/18.

Still no start, I have also tried using relay 109 in place of some of my keyed power, and still no start.

Thanks
-Josh-

josh...there is no keyed power on 18 ....it is only supposed to be the ground side of the relay 109...comp needs to see the resistance through the relays coil in order to function iirc ...on my truck I used the stock tacoma fuel pump relay as a surrogate for relay 109... the truck will absolutely not run without it hooked to the relays coil side

Ok, I have tried using 109.

I have 12v Power coming in to red, 2/30,
I have T121/18 connected to 9/85
I have Blue 6/87 running to power N108/G70/N75/N146 off splice a71 but without fuses.

That is actually currently how it is hooked up, prior to that i wasn't using relay 109 and just suppying power to t121/18.

Thanks
-Josh-

Jim, your writeup and pictures from your harness in your build is essentially what mine looks like, I have seen other writeups where they utilize the cluster, vw key, load reduction relay.

I'm trying to get mine more like your setup where I use as little of the vw stuff as possible,
Also what did you do to wire in your obd2 port?

Thanks
-Josh-

16 of 121 grey/white to toyota obd connector ...I had to move a few pins on the toyota port to match the VW's but it works great...just three wires power ground and data....on your no start I would not rule out the immobilizer yet...I had a prominent chip tuner do an immob delete for my beetle but I'm still having immob issues...not sure if it just did not take or it was missed (i was sitting in the car during the tune) and if the immob is triggered enough it will have a total non start (not even a one second run and shut down)....curious as to what trans you're using, cherokee or grand? ....any pics of your swap?

As soon as i get my cable back for my phone ill get some pics up, I am using the electronic aw4 transmission from the 99 jeep cherokee, reg not grand. Is there any way for me to test if the immo. is complete? ie. a chip removed from the ecm pcb?

Thanks
-Josh-

If I read you correctly, you're saying that you crank the engine with the injectors cracked and see diesel squirting out, right?

If so, I can think of only two reasons it wouldn't start..

1. You haven't bled the system enough. There should be a good squirt coming from the cracked injectors not a dribble. Ask me how I know ;-)

2. The timing isn't correct.

If you have compression and fuel (enough, at the right time), you'll run.

even with a bad relay 109(not saying this is the issue) some fuel will still squirt out past the loosened injector nut, giving the illusion that it should be enough to start

So the way i have it wired up, that should work just fine, so the issue is elsewhere?
Is that what i'm gathering from you jim?

Thanks
-Josh-

do you have another ecm to try?....this could eliminate the possibility of an immob issue...at least you could get a second of run time....also there are several clusters of grounds on the engine harness itself....if you have a generic obdII scanner you can at least check for ecm function, codes etc....

I have a generic obd2 scanner, also what cluster of grounds are you referring to? And I don't have another ecm to try.

Thanks
-Josh-

So...im attempting to prime the injection pump again, I can't draw fuel with the mityvac through either the return or pressure side. Also I have the obd connector wired up with the t121/16 pin running to the gray and white wire on the jetta ob2 connector and power and ground supplied to the connector and im getting a no link detected error with a generic obd2 scanner. Could I have a bad ecu? What voltage should be running to the quanity adjustor from the ecu?

Thanks
-josh-

Since the wiring circuit for the Quantity Adjuster comes directly from Fuse 32 which gets it's power from the 109 Relay, I cannot see why the voltage would be less than 12.

Thats what i have connected currently, but if i unplug the harness from the 10 pin fuel connector, i get 12v on T10f/5 and i get a voltage reading from T10f/6 of about 11.5 volts.

How does the quanity adjuster operate?

Muffinman said:

So...im attempting to prime the injection pump again, I can't draw fuel with the mityvac through either the return or pressure side. Also I have the obd connector wired up with the t121/16 pin running to the gray and white wire on the jetta ob2 connector and power and ground supplied to the connector and im getting a no link detected error with a generic obd2 scanner. Could I have a bad ecu? What voltage should be running to the quanity adjustor from the ecu?

Click to expand...

I think that's progress. You want to get a hello from the OBD2 connector, then you know your computer is awake. If you're not getting that, then the computer isn't on and you're not going to run. IMHO - get the computer talking first, then worry about getting it started.

VCDS would also be helpful once the computer is awake, then you can see not just the faults but the measurements from the sensors. I can't help with the other specifics, but you came to the right place for help.

Mark

I should have the vcds in the next few days and ill see what's going on, is there any way to tell if the ecu is bad vs. Bad odb2 wiring?

Muffinman said:

I should have the vcds in the next few days and ill see what's going on, is there any way to tell if the ecu is bad vs. Bad odb2 wiring?

Click to expand...

It's unlikely that you have a bad ECU but possible. The easiest way to test it is plug your ECU into someone elses car.

When I was getting my wiring figured out, Jeremy graciously let me plug my ECU into his car. It worked, so I knew it was the wiring. My setup is 1Z not ALH. If there's some reason it won't work for you, one of the more ALH-savvy members will reply and tell us.

That's safer than plugging someone elses ECU into your car and maybe frying it. (That's a low probability too, but better to be safe.)

Mark

Sounds like the ecm is not getting what it needs via power or ground

Hmmm, everything in my first post i have hooked up, is there a power wire for the ecu that i missed somewhere? or ground for that matter?

Thanks
-Josh-

Should be a cluster of grounds near the ecm all brown in the jetta they would bolted to a stud in the rain tray right in front of the ecm

I have the block grounded and I have the ecu grounded, that is all. Is there one I missed, also, im using a seperate pushbutton setup for the glowplugs, does the ecu need to see the glowplug relay to run? In addition, there is an ambient temp sensor I don't have hooked up, is that mandatory to run?

there should also be grounds for the engine harness...mainly the cluster that would have resided under the battery box in the jetta...make sure you have all the grounds grounded iirc there about six between the engine compartment and the rain tray....you don't need the temp sensor or the glow relay for the engine to run...I ran around for about four months with no glow relay at all

I feel like im missing some grounds then, In the harness I have put together I have only a ground for the ecu and obd2 connector.

Good luck on your wiring issue, I can't wait to see some details on how you mated the ALH to the AW-4. I have a 2001 Jetta with a slowly dying O1M and a 2001 Cherokee with an AW-4. I was gong to use an AX-15 and put a Toyota R-151 bell housing and input shaft in it, but I would much rather use the AW-4. Not too many mechanics have seen the inside of an AW-4.

Heres a link to some pictures, more will follow.

http://s1085.photobucket.com/albums/j423/Muffinman20051/Das Jeep/

Nice work on the water neck relocate! Good luck with the rest of your swap.
How are you going to control the AW4? If using the stock controller ( on the inner fender?) what signals does it need from the ecu?