EDC17C64 N75 PID control for a GTB2060VKLR

Hey guys,
I hope someone can help me get my software working with that turbo.

The car and all its hardware is already completely done for the next step but I'm waiting for weeks now to get some software for it. My very good tuner in the Netherlands has no experience at N75 PID adjustments in an EDC17. He is also very busy so its hard for him to figure all out in this ECU just for me.

I'm using an EA288 engine 2.0 CR TDI with a water air intercooler.
Software is currently stock with 184hp. engine code CUWA (VW CC 2015-2018)
Garrett GTB2060VKLR of an E350CDI with vacuum actuator conversion
Turbo is mounted on a Darkside manifold

My next goal would be to get the turbo working with stock power. I know it will work worser than the stock turbo but I need it working at least. Currently the car is almost undriveable. Turbo starts spooling above 4k rpm. Then its too much boost and the ECU is going in some kind of limp mode extremely reducing torque limit and fueling. I'm reading torque limits of 80-100nm with VCDS.
Later I'm aiming at around 300hp.

I've read that its neccessary to not only adjust the N75 control map. There are also other maps in EDC17 which need to be modified to have a good turbo spool under 2000rpm. I found that there are N75 maps controlling P I and D aka PID controller. In my opinion these settings force the actuator in a wrong position and the turbo has bad spool.
Here are already good information but I need some help for it. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=460239
So I opened a new thread for my specific build.

When the car is running good I will also post a build thread in the forum so you can see the whole car. I already prepared some text and pictures offline.

Can someone find the maps inside the flash and modify them for me? Or advice what I should need to modify? I know there are some people here who have experience with it. It's also possible to fit an electronic BMW actuator if thats easier.

Flash is read in boot mode.
https://filehorst.de/d/cCqItJbj


I will add better pictures later.

if turbo and actuator are well set i think there is no need to touch the pid

So you mean just touch the N75 control map but not the PID maps? After installing the vacuum actuator I set it up to have 100% position on the actuator feedback signal G581. That was at a vacuum of 580 milibars. Similar to the stock turbo.
Without vacuum the lever is up. When I turn on the engine, the actuator is going down to the bottom and then coming back up almost complete to the top (wide open). I can also hear it at the exhaust. Fast exhaust flow. more noise. It seems that is why it spools so late. I think the way from bottom to top (100% to 0%) was much longer at the original turbo. At the 2060 the lever is short and it moves too much. Like ECU think its 80% but physical position is more like 30%.

up = no vacuum

bottom = around 600 mbar vacuum

If the Turbo is OK an the N75 Map right and the requested Pressure, the PID are sleeping. They are only needet to work If there are differenzes
I think it's ok, If you stark car and the VNT is Open. Look what happens If you give more Gaspedal like 2000rpm. Can you See that the VNT close?

yes, turbo is fine. when driving with manual vacuum pump, i can make more than 2,5 bar boost. car then also has power. funny that no limp mode is coming on low boost.
when starting engine, actuator goes down 100% and then back up. when pushing the pedal while standing still actuator does not move. i don't know right now how it is while driving. maybe it is in some error mode and not moving anymore

Show me how you have modified the N75 map?

Hi Jarol,

N75 is not modified at all right now. You can find the original flash in the first post (modified further down).
Car is still not running. I can drive but actuator is not doing what is expected so i parked the car until the issue is found. I did not have much time past weeks. In my last post I was writing that the actuator lever is going up for 1 second after starting the car. Then going back down again.
I think this is a software issue or some kind of limp mode. Someone from digital-kaos forum modified my flash to disable temp sensors 2-4, egr off, dpf off because i currently have only straight pipe for testing how much power I can make.
This is the modified flash https://filehorst.de/d/cgjnCGaa

Actually this weekend or maybe on thursday (holiday), I will try to revert some or all of the changes to test what happens to the actuator issue. Only downside for me is I can flash only in boot mode. Takes some time.

BR, B3n

Same problem out here !! What did you do to fix the issue?

Did you find a fix for that problem? I just can’t f****ng stand car that is so slow!
I need to fix that crap! My car is stock and it has no freaking power !

B3n said:

Hi Jarol,
N75 is not modified at all right now. You can find the original flash in the first post (modified further down).
Car is still not running. I can drive but actuator is not doing what is expected so i parked the car until the issue is found. I did not have much time past weeks. In my last post I was writing that the actuator lever is going up for 1 second after starting the car. Then going back down again.
I think this is a software issue or some kind of limp mode. Someone from digital-kaos forum modified my flash to disable temp sensors 2-4, egr off, dpf off because i currently have only straight pipe for testing how much power I can make.
This is the modified flash https://filehorst.de/d/cgjnCGaa
Actually this weekend or maybe on thursday (holiday), I will try to revert some or all of the changes to test what happens to the actuator issue. Only downside for me is I can flash only in boot mode. Takes some time.
BR, B3n

Click to expand...

I found my problem on saturday. I was taking all parts to the car that are missing/not mounted and connected all plugs. I currently have only a downpipe after the turbo for testing max power output on dyno. When i connected exhaust temperature sensor 2, the vacuum actuator was working properly.

So it was my fault. I thought temperature sensors can be deleted in the ECU without causing more problems.
Car is now running more than 200km/h with stock software and no limp mode. Going for software tuning now.