Please help, I’m stuck as to what to do to start my 2001 Jetta TDI with 365,000 miles.
Previously I had NO problems starting the car AT ALL. I cleaned the EGR and intake, and when I went to start car afterwards it would crank but not turn over (never did start even briefly).
More info:
I went through a list on this site of all things to check that would cause a no start (short of using Vag-Com--Got one but having problems downloading the driver). Everything else checks out ok, and what I’m down to is air in the line. I know there wasn’t any fuel in the clear line from fuel filter to IP. Tried cracking injector nuts but didn’t get to any fuel coming out while cranking engine). I’m thinking I have a leak, but where??
I’m using MityVac to help with my no start issue. Not having luck, OR maybe not doing something right. First please advise on MityVac use—I’m a first timer with it:
a. I’m unsure of how many Hg to pump MityVac up to. I have not gone over 15Hg. What’s suggested for bleeding the fuel line?
b. Will pressure on gauge fluctuate while doing this procedure, because it is not holding.
So with the MityVac I have done the following:
1) Pulled fuel through from tank by putting MityVac at the hose that brings fuel into the fuel filter. I filled up the little MityVac cup 4-5 times before air was gone, but the air did clear out. Reconnected.
2) Then I put MityVac on the hose end that attaches to the IP (from the fuel filter). Was able to pull fuel until no air bubbles here also. (Once disconnected from MityVac the air went back in the line.) Reconnected.
3) Pulled IP return line off the fuel filter where it attaches to the T and attached MityVac there. I’ve been pumping on that for a loooong time, and air bubbles just keep coming, lots. Sometimes 1/3-1/2 of the clear line is taken up by small bubbles. It takes a long time to fill up the tiny MityVac cup because there’s so much air. I think I’ve pulled almost ½ gallon of fuel out so far. I’m under the impression that I should be able to get the air out at this location, and THEN crank car and crack the injector nuts to bleed. Is that right? OR do I first crack injector nuts to bleed and THEN put MityVac on this location?
4) OR does this mean I have a leak from just before the IP, back to the fuel filter? I don’t see any wet areas around the injector lines, return lines or IP. I did not previously smell any fuel in the engine compartment. The fuel return lines have always been gunky because I previously had an oil leak that splattered everywhere, so I can’t tell for sure if they may have a small leak.
Am I right thinking all this air in the #3 location is suspect? Or do I just keep on pulling fuel thru until I *eventually* get no air bubbles?
AND while I’m asking questions…
aa) When I do go about cracking injector nuts, what’s best? One at a time? All four at once? (I’ve heard only ½ turn is necessary). If one at a time, which one first? (And which is #1, on passenger or driver side?)
bb) If I go ahead and replace fuel return lines, where can I find what size I need and is this something I can just pick up at parts store or should I get from dealer? I don't have time to order online and wait for delivery.
I can't see that anything I did during intake cleaning (it was removed to clean it by the way) would cause me to have air in the fuel lines to prevent start up. But I’m short so I was sitting on top of engine compartment (mostly all on drivers side) on padding while working. Could I have compromised something? Could be coincidental, if so it reflects my luck. Car has been down over a week now--I need it bad. Any help appreciated!
Previously I had NO problems starting the car AT ALL. I cleaned the EGR and intake, and when I went to start car afterwards it would crank but not turn over (never did start even briefly).
More info:
I went through a list on this site of all things to check that would cause a no start (short of using Vag-Com--Got one but having problems downloading the driver). Everything else checks out ok, and what I’m down to is air in the line. I know there wasn’t any fuel in the clear line from fuel filter to IP. Tried cracking injector nuts but didn’t get to any fuel coming out while cranking engine). I’m thinking I have a leak, but where??
I’m using MityVac to help with my no start issue. Not having luck, OR maybe not doing something right. First please advise on MityVac use—I’m a first timer with it:
a. I’m unsure of how many Hg to pump MityVac up to. I have not gone over 15Hg. What’s suggested for bleeding the fuel line?
b. Will pressure on gauge fluctuate while doing this procedure, because it is not holding.
So with the MityVac I have done the following:
1) Pulled fuel through from tank by putting MityVac at the hose that brings fuel into the fuel filter. I filled up the little MityVac cup 4-5 times before air was gone, but the air did clear out. Reconnected.
2) Then I put MityVac on the hose end that attaches to the IP (from the fuel filter). Was able to pull fuel until no air bubbles here also. (Once disconnected from MityVac the air went back in the line.) Reconnected.
3) Pulled IP return line off the fuel filter where it attaches to the T and attached MityVac there. I’ve been pumping on that for a loooong time, and air bubbles just keep coming, lots. Sometimes 1/3-1/2 of the clear line is taken up by small bubbles. It takes a long time to fill up the tiny MityVac cup because there’s so much air. I think I’ve pulled almost ½ gallon of fuel out so far. I’m under the impression that I should be able to get the air out at this location, and THEN crank car and crack the injector nuts to bleed. Is that right? OR do I first crack injector nuts to bleed and THEN put MityVac on this location?
4) OR does this mean I have a leak from just before the IP, back to the fuel filter? I don’t see any wet areas around the injector lines, return lines or IP. I did not previously smell any fuel in the engine compartment. The fuel return lines have always been gunky because I previously had an oil leak that splattered everywhere, so I can’t tell for sure if they may have a small leak.
Am I right thinking all this air in the #3 location is suspect? Or do I just keep on pulling fuel thru until I *eventually* get no air bubbles?
AND while I’m asking questions…
aa) When I do go about cracking injector nuts, what’s best? One at a time? All four at once? (I’ve heard only ½ turn is necessary). If one at a time, which one first? (And which is #1, on passenger or driver side?)
bb) If I go ahead and replace fuel return lines, where can I find what size I need and is this something I can just pick up at parts store or should I get from dealer? I don't have time to order online and wait for delivery.
I can't see that anything I did during intake cleaning (it was removed to clean it by the way) would cause me to have air in the fuel lines to prevent start up. But I’m short so I was sitting on top of engine compartment (mostly all on drivers side) on padding while working. Could I have compromised something? Could be coincidental, if so it reflects my luck. Car has been down over a week now--I need it bad. Any help appreciated!