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Old July 18th, 2010, 18:14   #1
rackaracka
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Default Case Pressure Relief Valve tool

Car is a 98 NB ALH with 130k on it. New 11MM injection Pump that has been running for a few thousand miles - completely checked over by DFIS and stamped with a clean bill of health about 800 miles ago.

Where can I buy the socket to remove the Case Pressure Relief Valve? My 98 NB will barely run. It died on me as if it ran out of fuel and I had to get towed home. When I got home I popped the timing belt cover and check that all was fine. Then I tried to start the car and it started and ran perfect... After about 15 minutes of idling it started to run really lousy as if it was running out of fuel. Eventually it died, and threw codes for Modulating Piston G149, and QA upper Limit Reached and Lower limit reached. I pulled the sending unit out of the fuel tank and found a significant amount of crud in it, and the rollover check vavle on the supply side was still there. I cleaned it out very well, drilled out the check valve and re-installed the sending unit in the tank. I reprimed the system and started the car. It was running but really badly, and the codes won't clear. I electrically tested all of the wiring from the 10 pin connector to the ECU and they are fine. Also checked the grounds with a ohm meter and they are solid. I'm going to pull the case pressure relief valve out and see if maybe it fell apart and is causing these problems. I cannot get it to move with a 10MM open end wrench and don't want to damage it with a vice grip.

So.. Any advise is greatly appreciated, and also - where can I buy that socket?
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Old July 18th, 2010, 18:17   #2
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10 mm crows foot wrench will get the deed done, what ever you do don't hit it. These valves are extermely brittle and could shatter
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Old July 18th, 2010, 18:42   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JASONP View Post
10 mm crows foot wrench will get the deed done, what ever you do don't hit it. These valves are extermely brittle and could shatter

You might have to grind the outside of the crowsfoot a bit to get it to fit, dependent on brand. Craftsman you have to grind.
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Old July 18th, 2010, 19:22   #4
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Making a socket makes the job incredibly easy.

10mm impact socket (softer metal but has more material to grind away) is preferred. Take a de-burr tool to it and open up two opposing sides (leaving only 2 flat sides opposing each other untouched).

Others have taken larger sized sockets and squished them to the approximate size using a press. It works, but I've always gotten better results performing the former.

I do not know of any place that sells a tool for these.
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Old July 18th, 2010, 20:42   #5
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Since you found crud in the fuel tank, have you tried a new clean fuel filter? I think the direction you are going will have to be done also, but a new fuel filter might help a lot.
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Old July 19th, 2010, 03:39   #6
rackaracka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Powder Hound View Post
Since you found crud in the fuel tank, have you tried a new clean fuel filter? I think the direction you are going will have to be done also, but a new fuel filter might help a lot.
Yes, the fuel filter has about 1k on it. Thanks for the advice everyone! I'll see what I find with the valve in the IP. If that doesn't address the issue, I'll run it on a jug of clean fuel with a small inline filter.
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