no start after engine swap and new IP

I just finished installing a 98 AHU engine into a 95 Eurovan. I've done one before and everything has worked great, so I am very familiar with the engine. I owned the 98 Jetta engine prior to the swap and it ran fine. Before swapping the engine I completely stripped it down to a short block and then checked and cleaned the head, got a newly rebuilt IP, new battery, new starter, new fuel filter, etc... Now trying to start it for the first time. I've triple checked the timing - everything lines up exactly where it should - IP pump hold, camshaft slot, flywheel TDC. There is plenty of cranking speed - new battery and Eurovan diesel starter for the tranny to spin faster. I have 12 v at the fuel shut-off solenoid (drops to 10v when cranking -normal?). I made sure IP was full of fuel and have no bubbles coming into the IP. When I crack the injector nuts and crank I get lots of spray coming out. Plenty of unburnt diesel smoke smell after cranking. What's left to check? Fuel is there, timing is there, volts to shut-off solenoid is there. Wiring harness is carried over from the AHU and all else checks out. It's 65 degrees outside when I'm starting it so glowplugs not an issue. What else???

I’ve needed to jump the pump 1 tooth advance a few times after a pump swap, timing belt change, etc.

Where did the new pump come from?

-Todd

Hmm. Thanks for the reply. I've never had to jump the pump 1 tooth after a timing belt change but I suppose it is worth a shot. The pump came from the Netherlands through a reputable shop I have gotten a lot of other components for the Eurovan TDI swap from (Dutch Auto Parts). I have my original IP and thought I would throw that back on just to check, but it seems to be a timing issue as there is definitely fuel going into the cylinders. Also forgot to mention new bosio injector tips from Kerma and rebuilt injectors. For now the ECU is stock. I have a new chip from Kerma but thot I'd wait and make sure everything else worked before swapping it in.

Does sound like late timing. You didn't mention where you clocked the new pump.

Maybe try advancing the pump first. Rotate pump body CCW when looking at the belt end.

Thanks. O.k. I'll first try advancing the pump timing by rotating it CCW as far as possible after loosening up the 4 bolts and the 4 injection lines. If that doesn't work then I'll keep the flywheel and cam locked and rotate the pump sprocket one tooth clockwise (correct?) relative to the belt, and also retard the pump timing as far as possible by rotating the pump CW.



I don't know what you mean by 'clocking' the new pump. By clocking I am thinking of a turbocharger where you rotate the exhaust half of the turbo 180 degrees (or whatever) relative to the intake side. There is a woodruff key so one can't accidentally put the IP pulley on 180 degrees in the wrong direction.

Meant where in its range of adjustment did you locate it when you installed it. If it's fully CW you have lotsa advancing available. If in the center of its range then not so much.

oh, got it. I tried to put it right in the middle. It's always worked fine when I have done rebuilds or changed timing belts in the past. I've been surprised, actually, how close to 'perfect' one can get by just trying to mechanically center it, before using VCDS. But not this time....

It started! Thanks ToddA1 and others who helped diagnose this. It indeed was a problem of the IP pump needing to be advanced one tooth for it to start. Before doing that I rotated IP pump all the way advanced to see if that would start it. No go. Then I made a mark on the pump sprocket and belt where the two meshed, then locked the cam and crank down at TDC, loosened the timing belt and cam sprocket, rotated the IP pump CW one notch, tightened everything up, rotated the IP all the way retarted (away from engine), bled the system and... it started right up. I haven't gone into VCDS yet to actually see how the timing is actually doing but at least it started.. Without your help ToddA1 I would never have tried this, as over and over again forums (rightfully) say to make sure everything is lined up and pinned correctly. Sometimes you have to bend the rules. I suppose the tightness of the belt makes this happen? Over time I assume I'll check things again and see if the belt has stretched at all, making it possible for the engine to start with the IP correctly timed. In the meantime, at least it started.

It seems I have to do this more than not, whether the belt is new or used. Maybe it can be blamed on wear in the pump...

Glad it’s running, though!

-Todd

For me it's not even a tooth off, it just requires pushing down slightly on the IP lock pin (rotates sprocket slightly) and this lets the belt engage the IP sprocket at the correct position.

Steve